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THE 

YOUNG 

GARDENER'S ASSISTANT; 

CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF 
WITH 

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD, 

FOR THE CULTIVATION OF 

CULINARY VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS, 

ALSO DIRECTIONS FOR 

CULTIVATING FRUIT TREES, THE GRAPE VINE, &c.; 

TO WHICH IS ADDED, 

Showin;; the Work necessary to be done in the various departments 
Tof Gardening in every month of the year. 



Il 



y 



EIGHTH EDITION, IMPROVED. 

'^ V BY TyBRIDGEMAN, 

GARDENER, SEEDSMAN, AND FLORIST, NEW-YORK. 



" The end of all instruction should be the attainment of useful knowledge. 



NEW- YORK : 

For sale by T. Bridgeman, corner 18th st. and Broadway, immediately nerth of Union 
Place Park ; G. C. Thorburn, No 11 John street ; Alexander Smith, 38S Broadway, 
N. Y. ; G. R. Garretson, Flushing, L I ; Wm. Thorburn, Albany ; Reynolds and 
!_ Batehara, Rochester ; Hovgy & Co., Ellis & Bosson, Joseph Breck & Co., Boston j 
Hirst & Dreer, D. Landrelh & Co., Philadelphia; J. Cairns, Newark, N. J.; R. 
Sinclair, Jr. lii Co., Baltimore ; J. F. Callan, Washington City ; Turner & Hughes, 
Raleigh, N. C. ; J. Houghton, Cleveland ; J. C. Parkhurst, Cincinnati j T. Pringle 
and Co., New-Orleans and Natchez ; John Thorburn, St. Louis, Missouri ; and 
other Seedsmen and Florists in various parts of the United States ; also, by Book- 
selleri in general. 



1840. 
*7f 



■^' 




[Entered accordiBg to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred 
and Forty, by Thomas Bridgeman, in the Clerk's Office, of the 
District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New- 
York. 



A 1 1*. 



5-^ 



^^ 



PREFACE TO THE EIGHTH EDITION. 



The primary object in first publishing The Young 
Gardener's Assistant, was to enable our respectable seeds- 
men, while furnishing a catalogue of seeds for the use of 
the Kitchen and Flower Garden, to aiford instructions, a^ 
a trifling expense, to such of their customers as may not 
have a regular gardener, and thereby save themselves the 
blame of those who may not have given their seeds a fair 
trial, for want of knowing how to dispose of them in the 
ground. 

In appearing before the public with this eighth edition of 
the work, the Author cannot forbear to express his sense of 
obligation to his patrons in general, and to his fellow-seeds- 
men of New-York in particular, each of whom having by 
the interest they have taken in circulating the book, evinced 
their approbation of this humble attempt to serve both the 
seedsman and the gardener, in supplying directions for the 
management of a garden, in a manner calculated to insure 
success. 

Within the last ten years, upwards often thousand copied 
of previous editions have been issued from the seed store of 
Mr. G. C. Thokburx, who has liberally subscribed for fifteen 
hundred copies of this edition. The Boston and Philadel- 
phia seedsmen havealsocontributedlargely to its circulation ; 
and the Author has been gratified by learning that his 
labours are appreciated by eminent horticulturists, as the 
following extracts will demonstrate : — 

"Dear Sir, — You will see by the next month's New 
Yor.'c Farmer, if you have not already seen by the Albany 
paperci. that several copies of your Young Gardener^s 
Assistant were given as premiums by the State Agricultural 
Society. Mr. D. B, Slingerland and myself were on the 



IV PREFACE. 

committee for awarding premiums, and thought your work 
was deserving encouragement, and, that even in this small 
way, we might be of service in bringing it before the public 

as WORTHY OF BEING GIVEN AS PREMIUMS. 

" Yours, very respectfully, 

" Alexander Walsh. 
" Lansingburgh, November, 1835. 

Extract from a review of this work in the 3Iagazine of 
Ilorticultiire, Botany, S^c. published by HoveyS^Co. Boston: 

" The work is written in plain language, easily to be 
understood by the young beginner in gardening, who will 
find it a great help ; and its value, even to the partly expe- 
rienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character. 
It is adapted to our climate, and unlike compilations from 
English works, the novice is not led into disappointment 
by following the rules there laid down, as he generally is, 
when following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that 
as far as the book pretends, it is worth all others of a, 

SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN 

THIS COUNTRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the 
hands of all new beginners. " 

It appears from an article in the New-York Farmer and 
Horticultural Repository that the first edition of the work 
was noticed in France. The Editor informs us, in page 
295 of the fourth volume, " That one of the leading articles 
in the second number of the present volume of the Annales 
de L' Institute, Royal Horticole de Fromont, is a long notice 
of the Young Gardener'' s Assistant, by Mr. T. Bridgeman 
of this city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, 
speaks of the little work in very commendable terms." 

Numerous other proofs could be adduced of the kind 
reception the work has met. Sufiice it to state, that it has 
been extensively noticed, and recommended to public pa- 
tronage, by editors of literary periodicals, and in many of 
those publications devoted to agricultural and horticultural 
pursuits, in various parts of this and other countries. 

As the simphcity of cultivating the soil may lead many 
to think, that a wayfaring man though a fool, could not 



PREFACE. V 

easily err therein," it may be necessary to remind such, 
tliat the vegetable productions of the earth, being natives of 
various soils and cUmates, require peculiar management 
when cultivated in climates different to those in which 
nature first produced them ; and, that although many species 
of plants in common use with us, will endure the heat of 
our summers, others can only be raised in perfection during 
mild and temperate weather, and some require artificial 
means to be used out of the ordinary seasons for gardening 
operations. 

In the following pages, no efforts have been spared to 
impart useful information on the several branches of horti- 
culture. The directions for the cultivation of vegetables 
are the result of twenty years' assiduous practice and 
observation as a market gardener; and it is presumed that 
the Author's experience in other departments of gardening 
has been sufficient to warrant him in this attempt to 
instruct those who have not hitherto become acquainted 
with the art. The Author considers it not derogatory to 
acknowledge, that he has frequently compared his ideas with 
those of other Authors, and that he has in some instances 
availed himself of the benefit of their instructions ; but he 
is not aware that in so doing, he has adopted any ideas 
merely speculative ; to avoid which, he has invariably 
submitted such manuscript to the scrutiny of experienced 
gardeners of his acquaintance, and the result has generally 
been such as to confirm him in his original positions. 

It must appear evident to the reader, on a review of this 
work, that the Author in adopting the catalogue form, has 
been enabled to give as much information as is necessary to 
tlie cultivation of each particular kind of vegetable, in a 
condensed form ; whereas, had he pursued the same course 
as most of his predecessors have done, his book would have 
been considerably larger, and the reader must have been at 
the trouble of perusing the greater part of it, at least twelve 
times in the course of a year. The Author, however, beino- 
aware of the convenience of a calendar, has in this edition 
annexed one, wlxiqh he presumes is well calculated not only 



vi PREFACE. 

to assist the memory of the gardener, but to show him, ai 
one glance, the work necessary to be done in the various 
departments of gardening in every month of the year. 

The Author having shown his primary object in adopting 
the catalogue form, presumes that his readers will not be 
disappointed, if they do not find there the names of all the 
species or varieties of plants they may wish to introduce 
into their gardens, the mode of culture of such being gene- 
rally alike. If a catalogue of this kind was essential, 
it would occupy more space than is allotted for this book ; 
besides it would be impossible to keep pace with our 
enterprising horticulturists and florists, who are continually 
introducing new species into our country. When, also, it 
is considered that there are a number of indigenous plants 
at present unknown to us, it will appear evident that the 
most extensive catalogue would not be perfect in this respec^ 
for any length of time; the Author, therefore, thought it 
unnecessary to attempt any thing more than that which is 
essential to the attainment of a tolerable share of the pro- 
ducts of the garden, by ordinary exertion. How far he has 
succeeded in this respect, must be left for the reader ta 
decide, 

THOMAS BRIDGEMAN. 

New York, January, 1840. 



*#* The reader's attention is solicited to the elucidation 
immediately preceding the article Artichoke, relative to the 
varied climates to which our directions are calculated to 
apply. 

This exposition particularly concerns such gardeners as 
cultivate land in a temperature difterent to that in the 
Ticinity of New- York City. 



GENERAL. REMARKS 

ON THE 

MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Before I commence the Catalogue, it may be necessary 
for me to direct the reader's attention to some important 
matters, essential to the good management of a Kitchen 
garden. 

The mode of laying out the ground is a matter of taste, 
and may be left to the gardener himself; the form being a 
thing of trifling importance in the production of useful vege- 
tables, or whether the ground be laid out in beds of four or 
ten feet wide, provided it be well worked, and the garden 
kept neat and free from weeds. 

Those who have not a garden already formed, should, 
however, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep ; but as we 
have not always a choice, I would recommend the reader to 
that which is within the reach, and ought to be the object of 
every man, namely, to make the most of what he has. 

To this end, he may form a border round the whole garden^ 
from five to ten feet wide, according to the size of the piece 
of land ; next to this border, a walk may be made from three 
to six feet wide ; the centre part of the garden may be divi- 
ded into squares, on the sides of which a border may be laid 
out three or four feet wide, in which the various kinds of 
herbs may be raised, and also Gooseberries, Currants, Rasp- 
berries, Strawberries, «kc. The centre beds may be planted 
with all the various kinds of vegetables. The outside bor- 
ders facing the East, South and West, will be useful for 
raising the earliest fruits and vegetables ; and the North 
border, being shady and cool, will serve for raising, and 
pricking out such young plants, herbs and cuttings, as require 
to be screened from the intense heat of the sun. 



GENERAL REMARKS. O 

It may be necessary to state further, that though shady 
situations are useful for the purpose of raising Celery, Cab- 
bage and other small plants, slips, &.c. in the summer 
season, that all standard trees should be excluded from a 
Kitchen Garden, for the following reasons : — First, their 
roots spread so widely, and imbibe so much moisture from 
the ground, that little is left for the nourishment of any plant 
within the range of their influence ; — Secondly, when in full 
leafjthey shade a large space, and obstruct the free circulation 
of the air, so essential to the well-being of all plants ; — 
Thirdly, the droppings from trees are particularly injurious 
to whatever vegetation they fall upon. 

Previous to entering on the work of a garden, the 
gardener should lay down rules for his future government. 
In order to this, he should provide himself with a blank book. 
In this he should first lay out a plan of his garden, allotting 
a place for all the different kinds of vegetables he intends 
to cultivate. As he proceeds in the business of planting his 
grounds, if he were to keep an account of every thing he 
does relative to his garden, he would soon obtain some 
knowledge of the art. This the writer has done for the last 
twenty years, and he flatters himself that a publication of 
the results of his practice will be interesting and useful to 
his readers. 

If gardeners were to make it a rule to record the dates 
and particulars of their transactions relative to tillage, 
planting, &c., they would always know when to expect 
their seeds to come up, and how to regulate their crops for 
succession ; and, when it is considered that plants of the 
Brassica, or cabbage tribe, are apt to get infected at the 
roots, if too frequently planted in the same ground, and 
that a rotation of crops in general is beneficial, it will appear 
evident that a complete register of every thing relative to 
culture is essential to the well-being of a garden. 

One important point to be attended to, is to have a supply 
of good old manure, and other composts, ready to incorporate 
with the earth ; also a portion of ashes, soot, tobacco dust, 
and lime, for the purpose of sowing over seed beds in dry 



GENERAL REMARKS. 9> 

weather ; this will tend in a great measure to destroy insects, 
which sometimes cut off the young plants as fast as they 
come up. 

If the ground cannot be all manured every year as it 
should be, it is of primary importance that those vegetables 
be provided for which most need manure. A perusal of the 
catalogue will enable the young gardener to judge of the 
kinds of garden products which require most. Lest I should 
not have been explicit enough in this particular, I would 
inform him that good rich manure is indispensably neces- 
sary for the production of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, 
Lettuce, Spinage, Onions, Radishes, and Salads in general. 

In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those kinds of 
vegetables which are raised in hills or drills, may be provided 
for by disposing of the manure immediately under the seeds 
or plants. 

The next important matter is to have the ground in suit- 
able condition to receive the seed ; I wish it to be under- 
stood that I am an advocate for early sowing and planting, 
even at the risk of losing a little seed, provided the ground 
be fit to receive it. A light sandy soil will be benefitted if 
worked when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency 
to make it more compact ; on the contrary, if a clay soil be 
worked when too wet, it kneads like dough, and never fails 
to bind when drought follows; and this not only prevents 
the seed from rising, but injures the plants materially in 
their subsequent growth, by its becoming impervious to the 
moderate rains, dews, air, and influence of the sun, all of 
which are necessary to the promotion of vegetation. 

Some gardeners, as well as some writers, recommend cer- 
tain fixed days for sowing and planting particular kinds of 
seed ; I; think it necessary to guard my readers from being 
misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the 
observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of 
seed be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will 
become chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they 
be sown in very dry weather, the gerrainative parts of the 
seed may become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or 



10 GENERAL REMARKS. 

the young plants may get devoured by insects as fast as 
tliey come up. To obviate these difficulties, I have generally 
allowed a week or ten days for the sowing of seed, 
intending the medium as the proper time for the vicinity of 
New-York. With this clearly borne in mind, the reader 
who observes the difference in the degrees of heat and cold 
in the different parts ef the country, will know how to apply 
these instructions accordingly. 

Much depends on the manures used on particular kinds of 
soil. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils, is 
to give the former such dressings of clay, cow dung, and 
other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to bind and 
make them more compact, and consequently more retentive 
of moisture ; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, ashes, 
sand, and such other composts as may tend to separate the 
particles and open the pores of the clay, so as to cause it to 
approach as nearly as possible to a loam. 

The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less 
retentive will it be of moisture ; the more to a clayey, the 
longer will it retain it ; and the finer the particles of which 
the clay is composed, the more tenacious will it be of water, 
and consequently be longer in drying, and the harder when 
dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the long- 
est, without becoming hard lohen dry, is of all others, the 
best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the 
greatest perfection. This last described soil is called loam, 
and is a medium earth, between the extremes of clay and 
sand. 

I have, in most cases, recommended drills to be made at 
certain depths for the different kinds of seed ; and when I 
have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is 
intended that the seed should be covered only one inch, 
which it will be wlien planted in these drills, and covered, 
and so in proportion for any other depth required. This 
may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circum- 
stances alter cases ; if, for instance, some particular crops 
should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be 
far advanced, to risk a further planting of seed, even if the 



GEiVERAL REMARKS. 11 

i^eather be hot and the ground dry ; if this be planted a 
little deeper, it may escape the violent heat of the sun, and 
in the event of a shower, the ground would become suffici- 
ently moist to bring it up ; whereas it sometimes happens 
that_seed sown after a shower does not vegetate until after the 
season is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection. 

The work of drilling by those who have no machine, may 
be performed in various ways ; in some cases a plough is 
used, in others a small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the edge 
of a board or line ; it is of little consequence which way the 
work is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener 
to make his own choice of tools, I would suggest that he be 
provided with two or three drilling machines ; these, every 
handy man may make for himself; they should be in the 
form of a garden rake, with a stout heavy back, and five 
teeth, two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the ground, 
and leave drills two inches deep. If one be made with the 
teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another fourteen, 
they will be useful in making drills for various seeds ; and 
drills thus made serve instead of straining a line when trans- 
planting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leek plants, dec. the line being 
stretched at one edge of the bed, and the drilling machine 
drawn straight by the line, makes five drills at once. If they 
are straight, they may be kept so, by keeping one drill open 
for the outside tooth to work in, until the ground be all drilled. 

Gardeners practice different methods of covering up seed, 
some do it with a hoe, others with a rake or harrow ; some 
draw a portion of the earth to the side of the bed; and after 
sowing the seed, return it regularly over the bed ; in some 
particular cases a sieve is used, in others a roller. Rolling 
or treading in seed, is necessary in dry seasons, but it should 
never be done when the ground is wet. 

There is nothing that protects young crops of Turnips, 
Cabbage, and other small plants, from the depredations o* 
the fly, so well as rolling ; for when the surface is rendered 
completely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbou'^ 
they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps 
of earth. This method will be found more effectual than 



12 GENERAL REMARkS. 

soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants 
with any composition whatever; but as the roller must only 
be used previous to, or at the time of sowing the seed, and not 
even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the 
gardener should have a hogshead always at hand in dry 
weather, containing infusions made of wastQ tobacco, lime, 
soot, cow dung, elder, burdock leaves, &.c. A portion of 
these ingredients, or any other preparation that is pernicious 
or poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, tlirown 
into a hogshead kept filled up with water, if used moderately 
over beds of young plants in dry weather, would, in almost 
every case, insure a successful crop. 

Saltpetre is pernicious to many species of insects; it is 
also an excellent manure, and may be used to great advan- 
tage when dissolved in the proportion of one pound to four 
gallons of water. This liquid applied to plants through the 
rose of a watering pot, will preserve health and vigour. Soap 
suds are equally beneficial, if used occasionally in the same 
manner — say once a week. These remedies applied alter- 
nately, have been known to restore Melon and Cucumber 
vines from the ravages of the yellow fly, bugs, blight, &c., 
and to keep plants in a thriving condition. 

As liquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on a 
large piece of land^ it may be necessary, if insects are nume- 
rous, to sow tobacco dust mixed with road dust, soot, ashes, 
lime, or the dust of charcoal, in the proportion of half a 
bushel per acre, every morning, until the plants are free or 
secure from their attacks. Turnip seed will sometimes 
sprout in forty-eight hours. Cabbage seed ought to come up 
within a week after it is sown; but it sometimes happens 
that the whole is destroyed before a plant is seen above 
ground ; the seedsman, in this case, is often blamed without 
a cause. 

A correspondent has communicated the result of an ex- 
periment he has tried for preventing the attacks of flies or 
fleas, on turnips. He says, " steep your seed in a pint of 
warm water for two hours, in which is infused one ounce of 
saltpetre ; then dry the seed, and add currier's oil sufficient 



GENERAL REMARliS. 13 

to ^^et the whole ; after which mix it with plaster of Paris, 
so as to separate and render it fit for sowing." Fish oil is 
known to be destructive to ants and various other smal[ 
insects, but it is difficult to apply to plants. 

In the summer season, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, 
&c. are particularly subject to the ravages of grubs and 
caterpillars ; to prevent this wholly, is perhaps impossible, 
but it is not difficult to check these troublesome visitors ; 
this may be done, by searching for them on their firs^ 
appearance, and destroying them. Early in the morning^ 
grnbs may be collected from the earth, within two or three 
inches of such plants they may have attacked the night 
previous. 

The approach of caterpillars is discoverable on the leaves 
of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin white skin, 
by the minute insects which emerge from the eggs placed 
on them; these leaves being gathered and thrown into the 
fire, a whole host of enemies may be destroyed at once ; 
whereas, if they are suffered to remain, they will increase so 
rapidly, that in a few days the plantation, however extensive, 
may become infested ; now, when once these arrive at the 
butterfly or moth stage of existence, they become capable of 
perpetuating their destructive race to an almost unlimited 
extent. The same remarks apply to all other insects in a 
torpid state. 

Worms, maggots, snails, or slugs, may be driven away, 
by sowing salt or lime in the spring, in the proportion of two 
to three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally 
with salt and water, to the quantity of about two pounds of 
salt to four gallons of water ; or the slug kind, may be easily 
entrapped on small beds of plants, by strewing slices of 
turnip on them late in the evening ; the slugs or snails will 
readily croud on them, and may be gathered up early in the 
morning (before sunrise) and destroyed. 

Moles may be annoyed and driven away, by obstructing 
the passage in their burrows with sticks smeared with tar. 
First insert a clean stick from the surface through the bur- 
rows as a borer; then dip others m tar, and pass them 
through into the floor of the burrows, being careful not to 

2 



14 GENERAL REMARKS. 

vripe off the tar in the operation. Tar is also an effectual 
remedy against smut in wheat. — After being heated in a 
kettle until it becomes thin, it may be stirred in amongst the 
grain until it becomes saturated. The wheat should after- 
wards be mixed with a sufficient quantity of wood ashes to 
dry and render it fit for sowing. 

To prevent depredations from crows, steep corn in strong 
saltpetre brine, sow it over the land, or steep your seed corn, 
and if the crows once get a taste, they will forsake the field. 

Perhaps the next important point to be attended to, is the 
most proper rotation of crops. Virgil, who Avas a philoso- 
pher as well as a poet, very justly observes, that " the true 

REPOSE OF THE EARTH IS A CHANGE OF ITS PRODUCTIONS.*' 

It is a curious fact, that a plant may be killed by the 
poison which it has itself secreted, as a viper may be stung 
to death by its own venom. Hence it has been very gene- 
rally noticed, that the soil in which some particular vegeta- 
bles have grown, and into which they have discharged the 
excretions of their roots, is rendered noxious to the pros- 
perity of plants of the same or allied species, though it be 
quite adapted to the growth and support of other distinct 
species of vegetables. 

It is proved by experience, that fall Spinach is an excel' 
lent preparative for Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, and 
all other tap, as well as tuberous-rooted vegetables. 

Celery, or Potatoes, constitute a suitable preparative for 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, and all other plants of the Brassica 
tribe ; also Artichokes, Asparagus, Lettuce and Onions, 
provided that such ground be well situated, which is a cir- 
cumstance always to be duly considered in laying out a 
garden. 

Lands that have long lain in pasture are for the first 
three or four years after being tilled, superior for Cabbage, 
Turnips, Potatoes, ifcc. and afterwards for culinary vege- 
tables in general. 

The following rules are subjoined for further government : 

Fibrous-rooted plants may be alternated with tap, or 
tuberous-rooted, and vice Versa. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 15 

Plants which produce luxuriant tops, so as to shade the 
land, to be succeeded by such as yield small teps, or narrow 
leaves. 

Plants which during their growth require the operation 
of stirring the earth, to precede such as do not admit of 
such culture. 

Ground which has been occupied by Artichokes, Aspara- 
gus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, or such other crops as remain 
long on a given spot, should be subjected to a regular rota- 
tion of crops, for at least as long a period as it remained 
under such permanent crops. Hence in all gardens ju- 
diciously managed, the Strawberry bed is changed every 
three or four years, till it has gone the circuit of all the 
compartments ; and Asparagus beds, &c. should be re- 
newed on the same principle, as often as they fail to produce 
luxuriantly. Indeed, no two crops should be allowed to 
ripen tlieir seeds in succession in the same soil, if it can bo 
aroided ; because, if it be not exhausted by such crops, 
weeds will accumulate more than on beds frequently 
cultivated. 

Manure should be applied to the most profitable and 
exhausting crops ; and the succession of crops should be 
so arranged, that the ground be kept occupied by yjlants 
either valuable in themselves, or which may contribute to 
the increased value of those which are to follow; and the 
value of the labour required to mature vegetables, and pre- 
pare them for market, should be always taken into con- 
sideration, 

Many kinds of seed, such as Asparagus, Capsicum, 
Celery, Fetticus, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, Parsley, 
Rhubarb, Salsify, Spinage, &c. will not vegetate freely in 
dry weather, unless the ground be watered or rolled; 
where there is no roller on the premises, the following may 
answer for small beds as a substitute : after the seed is sown 
and the ground well raked, take a board (or boards) the 
whole length of the bed, lay them flat on the ground, begin- 
tiing at one edge of the bed, walk the whole length of the 
bed, this will press the soil on the seed, then shift the boa.id3 



16 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



till you have thus gone over the whole bed. In the absence 
of boards, tread in the seed with your feet, or strike on the 
beds with the back of your spade or shovel. 

If it be necessary at any time to sow peed in dry weather, 
it is recommended to soak the seed in water, and to dry 
it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive watering, will 
cause the seed to vegetate speedily. 

If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the 
ground is dry, the transplanting should be always done as 
Soon as the earth is fresh turned over, and the roots of the 
plants should be steeped in mud made of rich compost, 
before they are set out. 

I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sown in 
drills drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference 
to sowing broad cast, because the weeds can be more easily 
destroyed by means of a small hoe ; and which, properly 
used, greatly promotes the growth of young plants. 



The following table may be useful to the gardener, in 
showing the number of plants, or trees, that may be raised 
on an acre of ground, when planted at any of the under- 
mentioned distances. 



Distance apart 

1 foot . 
U feet . 

2 feet . 
2i feet . 

3 feet . 

4 feet. . 



. . . 10,890 15 feet 

. . . 0,969 18 feet 

. . . 4.840 21 feet 

. . . 2,722 24 feet 

5 feet 1,742 27 feet 

6 feet 1,210 30 feet 



No. of Plants Distance apart No. ofPlants 

43,.560 9 feet 537 

. ia,360 12 feet 362 

193 

134 

98 



75 
59 

4S 



The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are 
not expert in aritlimetic» in laying out a garden^ as it shave's 



GENERAL REMARKS. 17 

at one view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares 
of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, shows 
that if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty 
feet apart, that there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet 
square, or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from 
the same quantity of land. An allowance of about one- 
eighth must, however, be made from the above calculation 
for walks and paths. 

The table may also serve to show the gardener how to 
dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allot- 
ted for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three 
hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve 
feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure 
to cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the same 
distance apart. It therefore follows, that if one hundred loads 
be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into three 
heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every load 
must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion to 
the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose to 
drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may 
make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundred 
and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land ; in which case, 
by dividing each load into four heaps, he will require only 
forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the 
quantity still more, by allowing greater distances from heap 
to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions, 
so as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of ma- 
nure be may allot to any given quantity of ground. 



As it may not be generally known that some species of 
seeds are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner 
than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule 
for the gardener's government, provided the seeds are care- 
fully preserved, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or 
dampness : — 

Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light scale-like seeds, cannot 
be safely trusted after they are a year old. 

Beans and Peas of different species, Capsicum, Carrot, 

2* 



18 GENERAL REMAKKS. 

Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonera, 
and small Herb seeds in general, may be kept two years. 

Artichoke, Asparagus, Eggplant, Endive, Fetticus, Let- 
tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret and Spinach seed, may with 
care be preserved three years. 

Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish, 
and Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to. 
Beet, Cucumber, Gourd, Melon, Pumpkin and Squash, 
also Burnet, Chervil, and Sorrel Seed, have been known to 
grow freely when five and even seven years old ; but it is 
not prudent to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness 
of which we are not certain. 

In order to put such on their guard as may attempt to 
raise seed either for their own use or for the market, I 
would observe that great care is necessary, as it is an indu- 
bitable fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near 
each other, degeneracy will be the consequence ; it is, 
therefore, difficult for any one man to raise all sorts of seed, 
good and true to their kind, in any one garden. 

If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for 
seed, as the annexed fact will show. I once planted for seed 
some beautiful orange-coloured roots of Carrots, but as they 
had been previously grown with some of a lemon-colour, 
they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed, and as 
this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like 
cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal 
frame, so it is in the vegetable system — disorders very 
frequently lay dormant from one generation to another, and 
at length break out with all their vigour ; I would therefore 
advise seed growers not to attempt to " bring a clean thing 
out of an unclean," but if they find a mixture of varieties 
amongst their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they will 
infallibly have spurious seed. 

05^ In order to aid the novice in gardening, the following 
brief classification of such species and varieties as comprise 
our catalogue of vegetable seeds is submitted, and it is pre- 
sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this 
table will not be altogether uninteresting to the experienced 
gardener and seedsman. 



h 



CATAIiOGUE. 


a 


1 i 

1 ' 


.5 

i ^1 

3 C 

a 


si 

3 C 
« CD 


tb 


« a, 

5" 


Artichoke, 


^■ 





• 










Asparagus, 





. 


. 










Beans, (Eng. dwarfs) 





. 


. 










Beans, (Kidney do.) 




c 


1 






, 


Beans, pole, 











i 


Beet, 







. 






, 


Boi'ecole or Kale, &c., 

















Broccoli, 

















Cauliflower, 

















Cabbage, 




.0 












Carrot, 







, 







, 


Celery, 







. 










Corn Salad, 




. 


, 







, 


Cress, 














^ 


Cucumber, 




( 


) 






, 


Egg Plant, . 




( 


} 










Endive, 

















Indian Corn, 




( 


) 






. 


Leek, 






. 










Lettuce, 

















Melon, 




( 


) 








Okra, 




( 


) 









Onion, 
















Parsley, 





. 




. 







Parsnip, 









. 







Peppers, 


. 


( 


) 





. 





Peas, 





. 







. 




Pumpkin, 


, 


c 







, 




Radish, 


, 


• 







, 




Salsify, . . 





, , 







. 




Spinach, 







. 









Squash, 


. 










. 




Tomatoe, 


, 










, 


q 


Turnip, 


. 










. 




Herbs in general, 


. 





. 











20 GENERAL BEMARKS. 

In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to 
premise, that in the classification, as respects different seeds 
germinating, it is conceded that if some of those denomi- 
nated medium were put upon an equal footing with some of 
the class denominated quick-growing, they would vegetate in 
about the same time. For instance, Peas would sprout as 
quick as Kidney Beans in equal temperature ; but Peas, 
being hardy, are generally planted a month earlier in the 
season. If Beans were planted at the same time, they would 
rot for want of genial heat necessary to their germinating. 

Many of the species denominated medium and tardy, 
require considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when 
not attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total 
failure, are the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however, 
generally obviate difficulties of this nature, by sowing such 
seeds at the most favourable seasons. Those who delay 
sowing Carrot, Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip, 
Spinach, &c. until dry summer weather, render themselves 
liable to disappointment and loss thereby. 

As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed 
to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such 
of their error, offer a few observations under each head of 
the table. 

The first and second classes, denominated hard}-" and half 
hardy, are subjected to risk in unpropitious seasons, from 
unfitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by 
cold rains and variable weather. If sprouted seed survive 
a severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it 
is frequently subjected early in the season. Some species 
of plants that in an advanced stage of growth will stand a 
hard winter, are often cut off by very slight frost while 
germinating, especially if exposed to heat of the sun after 
a frosty night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, Carrot, 
Celery, Turnip, and many other growing plants, which 
survive the ordinary wi/iters of England, are here classed 
as half hardy, fur the reasons above stated. 

The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish 



GENERAL RLMAUKS. 21 

from excess of rain. Lima Beans, for instance, have often 
to be replanted three or four times in the month of May, 
before any will stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg Plants, 
Tomato Plants, See are also often cut off by variableness of 
the weather ; indeed it is unreasonable to expect natives of 
tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse to 
that in which nature first produced them, unless protected 
or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under 
the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender 
thuigs in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile 
themselves to loss in the event of unfavourable weather, 
instead of throwing blame on the seedsman. 

The fourth class, embracing such species and varieties, 
as fi'om their nature are apt to vegetate quickly, are very 
liable to be devoured by insects before they make any show 
on the surface. Turnip seed, for instance, will sprout 
within forty-eight hours after being sown ; and under fa- 
Tourable circumstances, most of the species of this class 
will come up within a week; but if insects attack the seed 
beds in dry weather, a total loss of crops will be the conse- 
quence. Every experienced farmer is convinced of this 
fact, by having frequently to sow his turnip ground three or 
four times before he can get any to stand. 

Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to 
grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardener 
should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in 
general, and especially to those in which plants are raised fior 
the purpose of being transplanted. 

Those species and varieties, embraced in x\\e fifth and sixth 
columns, often take from two to three or four weeks to 
vegetate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded 
by cold, others by excess of dry weather ; and at such times, 
seed may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the event 
of drought after heavy rains, seed and young plants often 
perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other unto- 
ward circumstances which can neither be controlled or accoun- 
ted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gardener. It 
must, however, be conceded, that failures often occur, through 



22 GENERAL REMARKS. 

seed being deposited too deep in the ground, or left too 
near the surface ; sometimes, for want of sufficiency of seed 
in a given spot, solitary plants will perish, they not having 
sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and very 
frequently injudicious management in manuring and prepa- 
ring the soil will cause defeat. 

I have been induced to expatiate, and in the seventh 
range of the preceding table, to designate such plants as are 
generally cultivated, first in seed beds, and afterwards 
transplanted for the purpose of being accommodated with 
space to mature in, with a view to answer at once the 
thousand and one questions asked by inexperienced culti- 
vators, at my counter. 

Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of 
raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed, 
when an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For 
example, one ounce of Celery seed will produce ten thousand 
plants. An ounce of Cabbage seed will produce from three 
to four thousand, sufficient when transplanted to cover 
nearly half an a.cre of land, which land, if sown with 
Spinach, for instance, would require from four to six pounds 
of seed. 

To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would 
observe in conclusion, that many other vegetables would 
admit of being transplanted besides those designated in our 
table ; but as there is considerable risk and trouble, insepa- 
rable from the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless 
there are paramount advantages to be gained, the reverse of 
which would be the case, under ordinary circumstances, 
with the generality of those plants not thus designated. 

Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall 
for the future follow the example of the truly eccentric 
Abernethy, refer all enqviirers for information to my books, 
which contain an answer to every important question that 
has been put to me on the subject of gardening since I 
became an author, 

T. BRIDGEMAN. 

New-YorJc, January, 1840. 



23 
CATALOGUE, 



*^* Previous to the commencement of oui* Catalogue, 
it may be necessary to remind the reader, that the 
directions which follow, are founded on the resuhs of 
practical experience in the vicinity of New-Yokk City, 
where the soil is generally susceptible of gardening ope- 
rations towards the end of March. These directions may, 
however, be applied to all other parts of the United States, 
by a minute observance of the difference in temperature. 

In the extreme northern parts of the State of New- York, 
as well as in all other places similarly situated, the direc* 
tions for the beginning of April may apply to the latter end 
of the same month, with very few exceptions. 

In our Southern States, the directions for APRIL, 
which may be considered as the first gardening month in the 
Eastern, Western and Middle States, will apply to 
January, February, or to whatever season gardening ope- 
rations may commence in the respective States. 

In the varied climates of each particular State, if the 
same rule of application be pursued to the end of the 
Calendar, success is certain. 



ARTICHOKE. 

ARTiCHAUTi Cynara* 



varieties. 
Cynara Scolymus, or French. | Cynara Hortensis, or Globei 

The garden Artichoke, a native of the South of Europe, 
is much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It is 
a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its large 
squamose heads, in full growth, in June or July, until Octo- 



24 ARTICHOKE. 

ber or November. The Globe Artichoke, which produces 
large globular heads, is best for general culture, the heads 
being considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick 
and plump. 

Both sorts may be raised from the seed, or young suckers 
taken from old plants in the spring. A plantation of 
Artichokes will continue to produce good heads six or seven 
years, and sometimes longer; but it must be observed, that 
if a supply of this delicious vegetable be required through- 
out the season, a small plantation should be made from 
suckers every spring, for a successive crop, as the young 
plants wdl continue to produce their heads in perfectio-n, 
after the crops of the old standing ones are over. 

The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes 
from seed, is to sow the seed the latter end of March, or 
early in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may be 
planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches 
apart. The ground should be light and moist, not such as 
is apt to become bound up by heat, or that in consequence 
of too large a proportion of sand, is likely to become vio- 
lently hot in summer, for this is extremely injurious to these 
plants. After the plants are up, they should be kept free 
from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them. 

The business of transplanting may be performed in cloudy 
or wet weather, at any time after the plants are from nine to 
twelve inches high. Having fixed upon a proper soil and 
situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and 
trench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, 
incorporating the manure therewith ; this being done, tak« 
up the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and 
dressing their leaves, plant thpm with a dibble, in rows five 
feet asundei", and two feet plant iV^ou plant in the row, leav- 
ing part of their green tops abo < uroiiiiH, and the hearts of 
the plants free from any earti o -(jr them, and give each 
plant a little water to settle the ro )t;s. 

The winter d essing of Artici;olies is an important opera- 
tion ; on it depends much of ihcir fiirure success. This 
should not be given them as long as the season continues 



AiaTICHOKI!. ^5 

•miid, that they may have all possible advantage of growth, 
and be gradually inured to the increasing cold weather ; 
4)ui it should not be deferred too late, lest by the sudden set- 
ting in of hard frost, to which we are subject in the Nor- 
thern States ; the work be neglected, and the plants 
consequently exposed to devastation and loss. 

In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the 
ground, leaving the small ones which rise from the hearts 
of the plants ; after this, line and mark out a trench in the 
middle, between esich row, from fourteen to sixteen inches 
wide, presuming that the rows are five feet apart, as directed. 
Then lightly dig the surface of the beds from trench to 
trench, burying the weed?, and as you proceed, gather the 
earth around the crowns of the plants to the height of about 
six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising 
leaves, without burying them entirely under it; this dofte, 
(Jig the trenches one spade deep, and distribute the earth 
equally between and on each side of the plants, so as to 
level the ridges, giving them at the same time a neat round- 
ing form ; finish, by casting up with a shovel the loose earth 
out of the bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in 
order that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c. «iay 
immediately riin off; on which account the trenches ought 
to have a gentle declivity, as the lodgement of water about 
the roots in winter, is the greatest evil and danger they have 
to encounter, even greater than the most severe frosts to 
which we are subject 

The beds are to remain so, until there is an appearance of 
hard frost, when they should be covered with light dung, 
litter, leaves of trees, or the like, the better to preserve the 
crowns and roots from its rigour. In this mariner, the roots 
will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the 
very severe frosts are over, the beds must be uncovered, and 
when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above 
ground, or rather one or two inches up, then, and not before, 
proceed to levelUng down the beds into the alleys or 
trenches, rounding them in a neat manner; then dig in the 
short manure, and loosen all tlie earth around the plants 



36 ARTICHOKE. 

At the same time, examine the number of shoots ari- 
sing on each stool, selecting three of the strongest and 
healthiest-looking on every stool to remain ; all above that 
number are to be slipped off close to the roots with the hand, 
unless you want such to make new plantations with, in 
which case any extra number for that purpose are to remain 
on the parent plants, until they are about eight or ten 
inches high from their roots, or junction with the old plants* 
when they are to be slipped off, and planted in a bed pre- 
pared in the same manner as directed for the young plants, 
taking care at the same time to close the earth about the 
crowns of the roots, and drawing it a little up to the remain- 
ing suckers. 

Observe, the spring dressing is to be given when the plants 
are in the above described state, whetler that happens in 
February, March or April, occasioned by the difference of 
climate, in the respective States, or by the earliness or late- 
ness of the spring. 

The gardeners, near London, generally take off the side 
suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size 
of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale in the mar- 
kets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger 
and more handsome. The maturity of a full-grown Arti- 
choke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it 
should always be cut off before the flower appears in the 
centre ; the stem should be cut close to the ground at the 
same time. 

Artichokes are esteemed as a luxury by epicures. To 
have them in perfection, they should be thrown into cold 
water as soon as gathered, and after having been soaked 
and well washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot, 
with a little salt, and kept boiUng until tender, which gene- 
rally takes, for full grown Artichokes, from an hour and a 
half to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them ; 
then serve them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and 
such other condiment as may best suit the palate. 



27 
ASPARAGUS. 

AsPERGE. Asparagus officinalis. 

VARIETIES. 

Gravesend. I Large Battersea. 

Large White Reading. | Large German, or Giant. 

This plant is a native of cold climates, and is found 
growing wild in Russia and Poland, where it is eaten by the 
cattle as grass. It will endure the severity of our winters, 
and produce its buds, when the weather gets mild ; but as 
garden products are generally scarce after a hard winter, the 
gardener who studies his interest will make the most of the 
spring season, and raise all he can before the markets 
become glutted ; to this end, he is recommended to prepare 
for forcing this vegetable, as soon as the coldest of the 
winter is past. — (Sec article on Forcing Vegetables.) 

Asparagus plants may be raised by sowing the seed in 
the fall as soon as ripe, or in March, and the early part of 
April. It requires some of the best ground in the garden. 
The seed may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches asun- 
der, and covered half an inch with light earth. When the 
plants are up, they will need a careful hoeing, and if culti- 
rated, and kept free from weeds, they will be large enough 
to transplant when they are a year old. Some keep them in 
the nursery bed until two years old. 

A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed 
every year, will continue to produce good buds for twenty 
.years or more. 

NeAv plantations of Asparagus may be made in Autumn, 
or before the buds get far advanced in Spring, say February, 
March, or April, according to situation and circumstances. 
The ground for the bed must not be wet, nor too strong or 
stubborn, but such as is moderately light and pliable, so 
as it will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and 
in a situation thit enjoys the full sun. It should have 
a large supply of good rotten dung, three or four inches 
thick, and then be regularly trenched two spades deep, 



28 ASPARAGUS. 

and the dung buried equally iu each trench twelve or 
fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is 
done, lav on two or three inches of well rotted manure all 
over the surface, and dig the ground over again eight or 
ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, and incorporating 
it well with the earth. 

In family gardens, it is customary to divide the ground 
thus prepared into beds, allowing four feet for every four 
rows of plants, with alleys two feet and a half wide between 
each bed. Strain your line along the bed six inches from 
the edofe ; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill 
close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side 
next the line nearly upright, and when one trench is opened, 
plant that before you open another, placing the plants 
upright ten or twelve inches distance in the row, and let 
every row be twelve inches apart. 

The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the 
trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that 
the crown of the plants may also stand upright, and two or 
three inches below the siuface of the ground, spreading 
their roots somewhat regularly against the back of the 
trench, and at the same time drawing a little earth up 
against them with the hand as you place them, just to fix 
the plants in their due position until the row is planted ; 
when one row is thus placed, with a rake or hoe draw the 
earth into the tj-ench over the plants, and then proceed to 
open another drill or trench, as before directed ; and fill and 
cover it in the same manner, and so on till the whole is 
planned ; then let the surface of the beds be raked smooth 
and clear from stones, &c. 

Some gardeners, with a view to have extra large heads, 
place their plants sixteen inches apart iu tlie rows, instead 
of twelve, and by planting them in the quincunx manner, 
that is, by commencing the second row eight inches from 
the end of the first; and the fourth even with the second^ 
the plants will form rhovihoidal squares, instead of rectan- 
gular ones, and every plant will thus have room to expand 
its roots and leaves luxuriantlv. 



ASPARAGUS. 39^ 

The above directions are intended for family gardens. 
Those who may wish to raise Asparagus in large quantities 
for market, should prepare the ground with a plough, and 
plant two rows in each bed, which may be carried to any 
lent^th required. If several beds are intended, they may be 
planted in single rows four or five feet apart, in order that 
the plough may be worked freely between them. Frequent 
ploughing will cause the roots to spread, so as to widen the 
beds, and the winter dressing may be performed in a great 
measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is cut, the 
ground between the beds may be ploughed, and planted 
with Cabbage, Potatoes, or any other vegetable, usually cul- 
tivated in rows. 

Winter Dressing of Asparagus Bedj. 

About the begining of November, if the stalks of your 
Asparagus turn yellow, which is a sign of their having 
finished their growth for the season, cut them down close to 
the earth, carry them off the ground, and clear the beds 
carefully from weeds. 

Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good 
manure ; let it be laid equally over the beds, two or three 
inches thick, after which, with a fork made for the purpose, 
(which should have three flat tines,) dig in the dung quite 
down to the crowns of the plants, by which means the roots 
will be greatly benefitted ; as the winter rains will wash the 
manure down amongst them. It is the practice with some 
gardeners to dig the alleys at every autumn dressing, and 
to cover the beds with the soil so taken out ; this may be 
done for the first two years after the beds are made, but not 
afterwards ; as, when the plants are in full growth, their 
roots and crowns extend into the alleys, and the digging 
them out frequently destroys plants, or renders them too 
weak to produce buds in perfection. The beds will be 
greatly benefitted if covered to the depth of several inches 
with leaves, sea-weed, or long litter from the livery stables. 

The seedling Asparagus should also have a slight dress- 
ing, that is, to clear the bed from weeds, and then to spread 

*3 



30 ASPARAGUS. 

an inch or two in depth of light dung over it, to defend the 
ci'own of the plants from frost. 

Sj)nng Dressing of the Beds. 

This Avork should be done from about the latter end of 
March, to the middle of April, or just before the buds begin 
to rise. After clearing away all the long litter, or whatever 
may incumber the ground, spread the short dung over the 
whole surface, and dig it in : if the alleys be dug at the 
same time, it will be very beneficial to the plants. Care 
must be taken at this season not to wound the crowns with 
the lines of the fork, but forking the beds should not be 
neglected; as the admitting of sun and rain into the ground, 
induces the plants to thi-ow up buds of superior size ; to 
promote such a desirable object, the ground should be kept 
clear of weeds at all seasons, as these greatly impoverish, 
and frequently smother the plants. 



The gardeners of England raise Asparagus in great per- 
fection ; and sometimes have buds weighing from three to 
five ounces each, Loudon says, in his Encyclopaedia of 
Gardening, that one grower alone has eighty acres entirely 
under this crop for the London markets. 

Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to 
cut for general use, in less than three years from the time of 
planting, but in the fourth year, when the shoots are three or 
four inches high, they will bear extensive cutting, which 
should, hoAvever, be discontinued Avhen no large buds are 
thrown up. The best way of cutting, is to slip the knife 
down perpendicularly close to each shoot, and cut it off 
slantingly, about three or four inches within the ground, 
taking care not to wound any young buds coming from the 
same root, for there are always several shoots advancing in 
different stages of .growth. 

Asparagus ie considered a wholesome vegetable, and 
should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being welt 
washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds 
tach, and boiled in> water, seasoned wkh aalt, until tend&r, 



BEANS. 



which will be in about twenty minutes ; take it up before it 
loses its true colour and flavour, and serve up on toasted 
bread, with melted butter, &c. 



BEANS, (Enghsh Dwarfs.) 
Feye de MARA is. Viciu faba. 

VARIETIES. 

Early Mazagan; ^'andwich Bean. 

Early Lisbon. Greeen Genoa. 

Early Long Pod. Dwarf Cluster. 

Large Windsor. White Blossom. 

Large Toker. Green Nonpareil. 

Broad Spanish- Sword Long Pod. 

The principal cause of these garden Beans not succeed- 
ing well in this country, is the summer heat overtaking them 
before they are podded, causing the blossom to drop off 
prematurely ; to obviate this difficulty, they should be 
planted as early in the year as possible ; as recommended 
in the article, " Forwarding Broad Beans." They are gene- 
rally planted in England, from October to April, for early 
ci'ops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It some- 
times happens that autuma plantings are injured by the 
extremity of their winters, but they never miss having an 
average crop. 

In the Eastern, "Western, and Middle States, if a few of 
the best varieties of these Beans be planted in the open 
ground, as soon in the season as it can be brought into 
good condition, they will, come into bearing in regular suc- 
cession, accoi'ding to their different degrees of earliness, 
aiid plantings may be repeated every ten days of the first 
spring month ; but it is only from those that are planted 
early, that any tolerable produce can be expected, as they 
become deficient in quality, as well as in quantity, on the 
approach of extreme warm weather. 

In the Southern States, they may be planted in succession 
throughout the autumn and winter months, which will cause 
them to bear early in the ensuing season. 



32 BEANS. 

The best mode of planting is in drills, drawn two inches 
deep, in which the seed beans may be dropped two or three 
inches apart, according to their size, and the drills may be 
from two to three feet assunder, A strong clayey soil is the 
most suitable ; but they often do well in moderately light 
ground, provided it be well trodden, or rolled, after the 
beans are planted. 

As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, they 
will need a careful hoeing, and if some earth be drawn up to 
their stems, three or four times in the course of their growth, 
it will greatly refresh and strengthen them. 

When they arrive at full bloom, and the lower pods begin 
to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the 
proper time, it will promote the swelling of the pods, as well 
as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops to 
nourish, the whole effort of the root will go to the support of 
the fruit. 

Broad Beans are particularly subject to green bugs. 
Tobacco water, or salt water, will sometimes destroy them ; 
but the most certain way is to watch their first appearance, 
and to pick off that part on which they first settle, and burn 
it ; or if such plants be cut down close to the ground, they 
will produce fresh shoots which may bear a good crop. 

One quart of see^d Beans will be required for every sixty 
feet of row, allowing the smallest sorts to be planted about 
two inches apart, and the largest four inches. 

The Beans should be gathered young, and shelled while 
fresh. After having been washed, let them be boiled in 
plenty of water with a little salt and a bunch of green 
parsley. They take from thirty to forty minutes boiling,^ 
according to age, and may be served up with melted butter, 
gravy, &c. ; but they are very good when cooked and eaten 
with fat pork, or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon. 



33 

BEANS. (Kidney D^v.^rf.) 
Haricot. Phascolus vulgaris, etc 

VARIETIES. 



Early Mohawk. 

Early Valentine. 

Early Yellow Six Weeks. 

Early Dun-Colored, or Q,uaker. 

Early China Dwarf. 

Quails' Head. 

Early Rob Roy. 

Early Black Dwarf. 



Large White Kidney Dwarf. 
White Cranberry Dwarf. 
Red Cranberry Dwarf, 
Yellow Cranberry Do. 
Warrington, or Marrow. 
Refugee, or Thousand to One. 
Marble Swiss Bean. 
Royal Dwarf Kidney, or Freneii. 



These varieties of Beans being natives of India, South 
America, and other warm chmates, will not endure the least 
cold, it is therefore always hazardous to plant them in the 
open ground until settled warm weather. The earliest 
varieties if planted towards the end of April, or the first week 
in May, will come to perfection in from six to eight weeks 
after planting. Some of the later varieties will keep longer 
in bearing, and are esteemed by some on that account. 
These, with some of the early varieties, may be planted, 
in the months of May and June, and if a regular succession 
of young Beans be required throughout the summer, some 
of the varieties should be planted every two weeks, from 
the last week in April until the beginning of August. 

These Beans require a light rich soil, in which they shou Id 
be planted in hills, three or four in a hill, or drills about two 
inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches from each 
other ; the drills may be from two to three feet apart. The 
Refugees are best planted in hills. As the Beans progress in 
growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing some earth up to" 
their stems at the same time, which will cause them to be 
soon fit for the table. 

Many gardeners, anxious to have Beans early, are apt to 
begin planting too soon in the season, and very frequently 
lose their first crops. It should be recollected, that thesg 
Beans are next to Cucumbers and Melons for tenderness* 
and will always grow quicker and yield better, if the planting 
be delayed until settled warm weather. The Early Mohawk 



34 BEANS. 

is the hardiest, and may sometimes succeed well, if planted 
about the middle of April. 

One quart of Kidney Beans will plant from thx'ce hundred 
and fifty to four hundred hills, according to the size of the 
Beans, allowing four Beans to each hill, or from two 
hundred and thirty to two hundred and sixty feet of row, 
allowing six Beans to every foot. 

These Beans should not be suffered to get old and tough 
before they are gathered ; be carefal in trimming them, to 
strip off the strings ; to effect this desirable object, break 
them across ; and, in order to preserve their greenness, soak 
them in salted water fcr a short time, then put them into 
the water while boiling, which should be previously seasoned 
with salt. Whea they are tender, which will be in from 
fifteen to twenty minutes, take them up, and drain them 
through a colander, in order to render them capable of 
absorbing a due share of gravy, melted butter, &c. 



BEANS. (Pole or Running.) 
Haricots a kames. 

Phaseolus Limensis. 

varieties. 

Larire White Lima. | Carolina,Lima, or Sky. 

Phaseolus Miatijlorus. 

varieties. 
Scarlet Runners I London Horticultural. 

White Dutch Runners. | French Bicolour. 

Dutch Case Knife, or Princess. I Red Cranberry. 

Asparagus, or Yard Long. | Wliite Cranberry. 

These species and varieties of Beans may be planted early 
in the month of May, and in June, either in hills three feet 
distant from each other, or in drills about two inches deep, 
and the beans two or three inches apart in the drills. The 
poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed in 
the ground before the Beans are planted. 

The varieties of Lima Beans should not be planted in 
the open ground until the second week in May, unless the 



BEANS. 3S 

season be very favourable, and tbe ground warm. As these 
Beans are apt to get rotten by cold and damp weather, let 
six or eight be planted half an inch deep round each pole, 
and afterwards thinned, leaving three or four good plaiits 
in a hill, which hills should be full four feet distance from 
each other, every way. 

The soil for running Beans should hi the same as for 
Ihvarfs, except the Lima, which require richer ground than 
any of the other sorts. A shovelful of rich light compost, 
Xtiixed with the earth in each hill, would be beneficial. 

If any varieties are wanted before the ordinary seasons, 
they may be planted in flower pots in April, and placed in 
a greenhouse or garden frame, and being transplanted in 
May, with the balls of earth entire, will come into bearing 
ten or fourteen days earlier than those which, in the first 
instance, are planted in the natural ground. 

It will require about a quart of Lima Beans to plant oiie 
hundred hills. A quart of the smallest sized Pole Beauc 
will plant three hundred hills and upwards, or about two 
hundred and fifty feet of row, and the largest runners will go 
about as far as the Lima Beans. 

Lima Beans should be shelled while fresh, and boiled in 
plenty of water until tender, which generally takes from 
fifteen to twenty minutes. Some cook the ripe Beans in 
winter, in which case they should be soaked in soft water 
for a few hours, and then put into the water cold, and boiled 
until tender, with a little salt ; but salted meat being boiled 
with them answers the same purpose, and makes them 
sweeter and more wholesome. The mode of cooking the 
other sorts, is the same as Kidney Dwarfs. 



86 

BEET. 

Betterave. Beta vulgaris. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Blood Turnip-rooted. 
Early Long Blood. 
Extra Dark Blood 
Yellow Turuip-rooted. 



Early Scarcity. 
Mangel Wurtzel. 
French Sugar, or Amber. 
Sir John Sinclair's. 



Beets, in their several varieties, are biennial, and the best 
blood-coloured are much cultivated for the sake of their roots, 
which are excellent when cooked, and very suitable for 
pickling after being boiled tender ; they also, when sliced, 
make a beautiful garnish for the dish, and the young plants 
are an excellent substitute for Spinach. 

The Mangel Wurtzel, Scarcity, and Yeltow Turnip Beets, 
are cultivated for cattle. Domestic animals eat the leaves 
and roots Avith great avidity. They are excellent food for 
swine, and also for milch cows ; and possess the quality of 
making them give a large quantity of the best flavoured 
milk. 

A small bed of ths earliest Turnip-rooted, and othej- 
esteemed kinds of Beets, may be planted in good rich early 
ground the first week of April, which being well attended to 
will produce good roots in June. 

Draw drills a foot apart, and about two inches deep ; drop 
the seed along the drills one or two inches from each 
other, and cover them with the earth. When the plants aEe 
up strong, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches 
from each other in the rows. The ground should be after- 
wards hoed deep round the plants, oud kept free from weeds. 
If the planting of Beet seed, for general crops, be delayed 
until May or June, the roots will be much larger and better 
t«ian those from the earliest planting, which, from being fre>- 
quently stunted in growth by the various changes of weather, 
become tough, stringy, and of unhandsome shape. In case 
of failing crops, Beet seed planted the first week in July, wll[ 
sometimes produce large handsome roots, which may be pre- 
served for Winter use. 



J 



SORECOLE, OR KALE. S^T 

Tlie most suitable ground for Beets, is that which may 
oave been well manured for previous crops, and would re- 
quire no fresh manure, provided it be well pulverized. 

It is always best to thin Beets while young. If the tops are 
used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for this 
purpose, or they will greatly injure the roots of those that are 
to stand. Beds that are to stand through the Summer, should 
be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots intended 
for Winter use should be taken up in October, or early in 
November, and stowed away as directed in the calendar for 
those months. 

Allowing Beet seed to be planted on the gardening plan, 
it will require at the rate often pounds for an acre of land, 
which is two pounds and a half for a rood, and one ounce 
for every perch, pole, or rod. If cultivated on the field 
system, one half the quantity of seed will be sufficient, or 
even less, if sown regular. If it be an object v.ith the 
gardener to save his seed, he may plant two or three seeds 
in each spot where a plant is required, and thin them as 
before directed. 

It may be necessary to add, that one pound of Beet seed 
will measure about two quarts, and as each capsule contains 
four or five small seeds, thinning out the surplus plants is 
indispensible to the production of good roots. 



BORECOLE, OR RALE. 

Chou Frise Vert. Brassica oleracea, etc. 



Green Curled, or ?cotch. 
Dwarf Brown, or German. 
Purple Fringed. 



VARIETIES. 

Jerusalem, or Buda- 
Ce.sarean Kale. 
Thousand-headed Cabbage. 



There are several sub-varieties of this genus of plants 
besides those above specified, most of which have large open 
heads, with curled wrinkled leaves. The Dwarf Curled, or 
Finiely Fringed sorts, are much cultivated in Europe for the 
table ; and the coarse and tall growing are considered pro- 

4 



3o cnussELs spnouTs* ^ 

fitfiblc for cattle. The Thousand-lieaded Cabbage, and 
Cesarean Kale, grow from three to five feet high, and branch 
out from the stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves 
and sprouts in the Winter and Spring. 

For the garden, these several varieties may be treated in 
every respect as Winter Cabbages. The seeds may be sown 
from about the middle of May to the first week in June, and 
the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich 
ground. They are never so delicious as when rendered 
tender by smart frosts ; they are valuable plants to cultivate) 
particularly in the more Southerly States, as they will there 
be in the greatest perfection during the winter months ; 
they will also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a sheltered 
warm situation, bear the winters of the Western States ; and 
may be kept in great perfection in the Eastern States, if 
taken up before the frost sets in with much severity, and 
placed in trenches up to their lower leaves, and then covered 
with straw or other light covering: the heads may be cutoff 
as they are required for use ; and in the spring, the stems 
being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious 
greens. 

One ounce of good Borecole seed will produce about four 
thousand plants, and may be sown in a border four feet by 
ten, or thereabouts. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Chou de Bruxeli.es agets. Brassica oleracea. 

This plant frequently grows from three to five feet high, 
and produces from the stem small heads resembling cab- 
bao-es in miniature, each being from one to two inches in 
diameter. The top of the plant resembles the Savoy, when 
planted late. The sprouts are used as winter greens, and 
they become very tender when touched with the frost. 

The seed may be sown about the middle of May, in the 
same manner as Borecole, and the plants set out with a 



BROCCOLI. 39 

dibble early in July. The subsequent treatment must be in 
every respect as for Borecole. 

Some gardeners, with a view to furnish the New-York 
markets with greens early in the spring season, when vege- 
tables in general are scarce, cultivate the common Rape, 
Brassica Rapus ; it being a good substitute for Brussels 
Sprouts, which are not always attainable after a hard winter. 
If Rape seed be sown early in September, the plants will 
survive an ordinary winter, and produce top shoots or 
sprouts early ; but it is best sown as soon as the ground is 
susceptible of cultivation in the Spring, say the last week in 
March. The sprouts should be cut while young, as such 
greens then command the best prices, and are more palatable 
than when far advanced in growth. 

It may be necessary to add, that in cooking these sprouts, 
as also Kale, Coiewort, and greens in general, they should 
be put into hot Avater, seasoned with salt, and kept boiling 
briskly until tender. If it be an object to preserve their 
natural colour, put a small lump of pearlash into the water, 
which also makes the coarser kinds of cabbage more ten- 
«!er in the absence of salted meat. 



BROCCOLI. 

Chou Brocoli. Brassica oleracea Italica. 

VARIETIES. 



liarly White. 
Early Dwarf Purple. 
Early Green. 
Dwarf Brown. 
Large Late Purple 



Lartre Purple Cape 
White Cape, or Cauliflower 
Sulphur Coloured Cape. 
Brauchin;? Purple. 
Large Late Green. 



The several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower may be 
justly ranked among the greatest luxuries of the garden. 
They need only be known in order to be esteemed. The 
Broccoli produces heads, consisting of a lump of rich seedy 
pulp like the Cauliflower, only that some are of a green 
qolour^sume purple, some brown, &.c. and the white kinds 



40 BROCCOLI. 

SO exactly resemble the true Cauliflower, as to be scarceljir 
distinguished either in colour or taste. 

Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater 
part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble us 
Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the Purple Cape 
Broccoli is now generally understood in this part of Ame- 
rica ; but the cultivation of the other kinds has been nearly 
abandoned, on account of the ill success attending former 
attempts to bring them to perfection. 

In some of tite Southern States, where the winters are 
not more severe than in England, they will stand in the 
open ground, and continue to produce their fine heads from 
November to April. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle 
States, if the seeds of the late kinds be sown in April, and 
the earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated 
in the same manner as Cauliflower plants, it would be the 
most certain method of obtaining large and early flowers ; 
but as only a part of these crops can be expected to come 
to perfection before the approach of winter, the remainder 
will have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and covered 
with earth up to the lower leaves, in some sheltered situa- 
tion, to promote the finishing of their growth. 

Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and Cauli- 
flower in any quantity, so as to have all the different varieties 
in succession, should have places erected similar to some 
of our greenhouses : the back and roof may be made of 
refuse lumber, which being afterwards covered with fresh 
stable dung, will keep out the frost. The place allotted for 
Cape Broccoli and Cauliflower should have a glazed roof to 
face the south — the sashes must be made to take oft' in mild 
weather, but they should be always kept shut in severe cold 
weather, and covered with mats, or boards, litter, &c., so 
( ftectually as to keep out the frost. 

The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved without 
glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in 
extreme cold weather, which may be covered over with fresh 
stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it will 
be necessary to keep the full power of the sun from comin g 



BROCCOLI. 



41 



ont them until they be thawed ; this may be done by shaking 
a little straw on the bed as they lay. 

It may, perhaps, be not generally understood, that the 
sudden transition from cold to heat, is more destructive to 
vegetables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get 
frozen, and cannot be screened from the sudden rays of the 
sun, they should be well watered as the air gets warm, and 
before they begin to thaw ; this will draw out the frost, and 
may be the means of saving the plants. 

The proper time for sowing seed of the Purple Capo 
Broccoli, is from the tenth to the twenty-fourth of May:* 
those who intend to provide a place for the winter keeping of 
the other kinds, may sow seeds of the most esteemed varieties 
at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, a 
week apart. 

In order to insure good stout plants, let the seed at this 
season be sown in a moderately shaded border. It is best 
sown in shallow drills, drawn three or four inches apart, in 
which case one ounce of seed will occupy a border of about 
four feet in width by twelve in length, and produce about 
four thousand strong plants. 

In the beginning of July, or when the plants are of 
sufficient size, they should be transplanted into extraordi- 
nary rich ground, which should be brought previously into 
good condition. This being done, plant them in rows two 
feet and a half apart, and two feet distance in the rows. 

* It has been proved by repealed experiments, that the Purple Cape 
Broccoh succeeds better in our chmate tiian any other variety; and, 
also, that if Broccoli or Cauhflovver plants be retarded in growth by 
extreme heat, they seldom arrive at j;ood perfection. It is, therefore, 
important that the time of sowinji the seed of Cape Broccoli be so ref- 
lated as to allow, say six weeks of the summer, for the plants to grow in, 
previous to their bein^ transplanted, and about seven or eight weeks 
between then and the commencement of cool autumn weather, which 
i< essential to mature them. 

If seed be sown much before the middle of May, or so early that th* 
plants arrive at full growth in the heat of summer, and thereby become 
stunted, they generally button, instead of forming perfect heads of flowers, 
and are consequently of no use but for cattle. 

In some of the Southern States, latej planting of Broccoli and 
Cauliflower, succeeds better than early, because the winters are calcu- 
lated to mature these vegetables, from their not being subject to injury. 
by sliglU frost, in a late sta^e of their growth. 

4* 



^ CAULIFLOWER. 

As soon ao they have taken root, give the ground a deep 
hoeing", and repeat tliis two or three times in the course of 
their growth, drawing some eartli around their stems. 

Some of the Cape Broccoh, if attended to as directed, 
will come to perfection early in September and in October; 
the other kinds will produce their heads in regular succes- 
sion throughout the winter and spring months, according to 
their different degrees of earliness, provided an artificial 
climate be provided for them. These, of course, with 
whatever may remain of ihe Cape Broccoli, will have to 
be taken up early in October, and laid in carefully with 
the roots and stems covered with earth as far as their lower 
leaves. Those who have not a place provided, may keep 
a few in frames, or in a light cellar; but every gardener 
and country gentleman should have suitable places erected 
for a vegetable that yields such a delicious repast, at a time 
when other luxuries of the garden are comparatively out oi 
our reach. 



CAULIFLOWER. 

Choufleur. Brassica oleracea hotryiis, 

».«» VARIETIES. 

Early White | Late White. 

Hardy Red i or Purple Cauliflower. 

This is a first-rate vegetable : to obtain which, great pains 
must be taken in every stage of its growth, the extremes of 
heat and cold being very much against it : which circura- 
stance accounts for good Cauhflowers being scarcely attain- 
able in unpropitious seasons, and which the novice falsely 
attributes to defectiveness of the seed. 

To produce early Cauliflower, the seed should be sown 
between the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in 
a bed of clean rich earth. In about four or five weeks after- 
wards, the plants should be pricked out into another bed, 
at the distance of four inches from each other Qxery way 
this bed should be encompassed with garden frames, covered 



CATTLIFLOWEK. 43 

with glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants should 
be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken 
root ; they will afterwards require light and air every mild 
day throughout the winter; but the outsides of (he frames 
must be so lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so 
covered as to keep out all frost. 

The plants should be well attended to until the time of 
transplanting in the spring ; and these who have not hand 
or bell glasses, so as to enable them to set some out by the 
latter end of March, should have a frame ready about the 
last week in February, in order that they may be trans- 
planted to the distance of eight or nine inches apart; this- 
would prevent them from buttoning, or growing up weak; 
if this be not done, some of the strongest plants should be 
taken out of the beds and planted in flower pots, which 
may be afterwards placed in a frame or greenhouse, until 
the weather be warm and settled, which may be expected 
soon after the middle of April. They should be then 
turned out with the balls of earth entire, and transplanted into 
a bed of the richest earth in the garden, at the distance of 
two feet and a half from each other every way ; the 
residue may be taken up from the frame the last week in 
April, or earlier, if the season proves inild, by means of a 
garden trowel, and transplanted as above. 

The plants should be afterwards well cultivated, by hoeing 
the ground deep around them, and bringing some earth gradu- 
ally up to their stems, so as to push them forward before the 
approach of warm weather. When the soil has been drawn 
up to the plants some little time, fork the ground between 
the rows lightly over, which will promote their growth. They 
should be liberally supplied with water in dry weather; 
those out of flower twice a week, and those in, every other 
day, which will contribute to their producing very large heads. 
As the flower heads appear, the larger leaves should be 
broken down over them, to defend them from the sun and 
rain, in order that the heads or pulps may be close, and of 
their natural colour. 



44 CAULIFLOWER. 

Plants from the autumn sowing are generally allowed" tc 
succeed best; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced 
from seed sown in a hot-bed towards the end of January, or 
early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the 
bed in good condition to receive the seed ; when the plants 
are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they 
progress in growth, they should have as much air as possi- 
I ble, consistent with their preservation ; but the beds must 
be kept covered up every night, as long as there is any dan- 
ger of frost. When the plants are three or four inches high, 
they must be pricked out three or four inches apart into 
aaother bed, and by the latter end of April they may be 
transplanted into the ground, and treated in every respect 
the same as the other. These plants, if well managed, will 
succeed very well, and tliose that do not flower by June, 
may make good heads in autumn. 

In the early part of Pvlay, Cauliflower seed may be sown 
in the open border, in drills, as recommended for Broccoli, 
aod one ounce of seed will produce about four thousand 
good plants. These plants should be pricked out in June, 
and transplanted into good ground early in July, to flower 
in Autumn : those that are not likely to flower by the last of 
October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner 
recommended for Broccoli. 

Cauliflower, and also Broccoli, should be gathered while 
the pulp, is close and perfect. After having trimmed ofl' 
some of their, outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of 
% water seasoned with salt, taking care to skim the pot, and 
J ^ also to ease the cover, so as not to confine the steam. Take 
them up as soon a| the fork will enter the stems easily, 
5 which will be in from ten to twenty minutes, according to 
their size and age; drain them so as to make them suscep- 
tible of absorbing a due proportion of gravy, melted butter,, 
&c. This renders them a palatable and dainty dish. 



45 

CABBAGE. 

Chou. Brassica olcracea, etc. 

VARIETIES. 



Early May. 
Early Hope 
Early Dwarf Dutch. 
Early York. 
Early Siigarloaf. 
Early Emperor. 
Early Wellington. 
Early Heart-shaped. 
Early London Market 
Early London Battersea, 



Late Battersea, or Drumhead. 
Large Bergen, or Americ.m. 
Late Flat German. 
Large Green Glazed. 
Large Late Dnimheid. 
Red Dutch, for Pickling. 
Green Globe Savoy. 
Large Cape Savoy. 
Green Curlpd Savoy. 
Turnip-rooted, in varieties. 



The early sorts of Spring Cabbage may be raised in 
various ways. Some sow the seeds between the tenth and 
twenty-fourlh of September, pricked out and managed the 
same as Cauliflower plants, only that they are more hardy, 
and may sometimes be kept through the winter, without 
sashes. 

Some prefer sowing the seed in a cold-bed, covered by a 
garden frame, with sashes. If this frame be placed on a 
warm border, and kept free from frost, and the seed of the- 
early kinds -sown the latter end of January, or early in 
February, these plants will be better than those raised in the 
fall; as they will not be so liable to run to seed, and tlie^ 
will be more hardy, and full as early as those raised in hot- 
beds in the spring. 

Or, if a heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the 
ground intended for the raising of early plants before the 
frost sets in — the same may be removed some mild day in 
January or February, and temporary frames made by 
driving stakes in the ground, and nailing planks or slabs 
thereto. The ground being then dug, the seed sown, an'):. 
covered up with sashes, Avill soon produce plants in perfec- 
tion. The frames should be well protected, by placing the 
manure around them, and covering the tops with rnats,boards, 
&c. as directed for hot-beds in the calendar for February and 
March. 

It is customary with Gardeners about New-York, to 
yaise their plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, the bed& 



46 CABBAGE. 

should be prepared, as directed in a future page of this book, 
(see Index ) so as to be ready to receive the seed by the latter 
end of February, or early in March. Plants thus produced, 
as well as those raised as before directed, will be fit to trans- 
plant about the middle of April, and should be carefully 
planted, with a suitable dibble, in good ground, from six- 
teen inches to two feet apart, according to size and kind : 
these, by being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in 
June. If seeds of the large early kinds be sown in a warm 
border, early in April, they will produce plants fit to trans- 
plant in May, Avhich will make good Cabbages for summer 
use. 

The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown towards the end 
of April or early in May, and that of Savoys and late Cab- 
bage in general, may be sown at two or three diflferent times, 
between the tenth and twenty-fifth of May, in fresh rich 
ground. The young plants will require to be watched at 
this season of the year, and if they are attacked by insects, 
recourse'^ must be had to the ingredients recommended in 
the general directions; these, if used every evening until the 
plants get strong, will bring them forward for transplanting 
in the second or third week in July. 

The most certain way of raising good strong plants in the 
summer season, is to sow the seed in a moderately shaded 
border, in shallow drills drawn three or four inches apart. 
One ounce of seed sown in this manner, will occupy a bor- 
der of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and 
produce about four thousand stout plants; whereas if seed 
be sown broadcast, as is the usual custom, two ounces of 
seed may not produce so many good plants, as the one ounce 
on the plan recommended. 

The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be transplanted 
in rows thirty inches asunder, and the plants about two feet 
apart in the rows ; the Savoys and smaller sorts may be 
placed from four to six inches nearer every way. Cabbage 
succeeds best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should b& 
deeply hoed, at least three times, during their growth. 

The Brassica Rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces its- 



COLEVVORT, OR COLLARDS. 47 

Ibulb or protuberance, on the stems above ground, immedi- 
ately under the leave?. It is eatable when young, or about 
the size of a garden turnip. 

The seed may be sown in April or May, and the plants 
afterwards treated the same as Cabbage, only that in earth- 
ing up the plants, you must be careful not to cover the 
globular part. 

They are much more hardy than Turnips. In England 
the bulbs often grow to upwards of twenty inches in circum- 
ference, and weigh from ten to twelve pounds. They are 
cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for 
table use ; in either case, they treat them as they do cabba- 
ges, or sowtliem like Turnips, and afterwards hoe them out 
to proper distances. 

The Brassica Napus, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage, has an 
oblong thick root in the form of a Winter Radish ; it is ex- 
tremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts ; the seeds 
should be sown in rich ground, and treated in every respect 
as Turnips, observing to thin the plants with a hoe to the 
distance of sixteen indies apart. Tiieir roots will be much 
larger and better when treated in this way, than if trans- 
planted. 

The Brassica Napus, variety esculenta, is sometimes ciil- 
tivated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem by the 
French as a culinary vegetable, and is called the Navet, or 
French Turnip. In France, as well as in Germany, few 
great dinners are served up without it, in one shape or other. 



COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. 
Chou vert. Brassica oleracea. 

This is a species of Cabbage vvhich is eaten when young; 
it so nearly resembles the early kinds of Cabbage, that it is 
seldom cultivated. The English frequently sow \\\e seed 
of early heading kinds of Cabbage, as a substitute, which 
being done at different seasons, enables them to procure a 
supply of fresh greens from their gardens every day in the 



48 CARDOONS. 

year. This is not attainable here, on account of the ex*- 
tremes of heat and cold ; but Collards would prove very 
valuable and acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable 
season for fall Cabbage. 

If the seeds of Early York, Early Dutch, or other early 
kinds of Cabbage, be sown in June, July and August, and 
transplanted as they become fit, into good ground, from fif- 
teen to eighteen inches apart, the first planting would make 
gpod heads for fall use ; and the plants of late sowings, if 
transplanted in September and October, in a warm border, 
would produce tender sweet-eating greens for use in the 
early part of winter ; the latter plantings may be placed 
ten or twelve inches, plant from plant. These could be 
easily sheltered on the approach of severe weather, without 
being taken up. The cultivation of Collards is well adapted 
to our Southern States, as they there need no protection in 
winter. 



CARDOONS. 

Cardon. Cynara carduncutus, 

TiJE Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is much 
cultivated in Europe for culinary purposes, such as for 
salads, soups, stews, <fcc. 

The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are the 
eatable parts, after being blanched. They are in perfection 
in Autumn and Winter. 

The seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth in the 
month of April ; and one ounce will produce about six 
hundred plants: when the plants are up strong, they should 
be thinned to four or five inches distance, to prevent their 
becoming weak. They may be transplanted in June, at 
the distance of four feet from one another every way ; ob- 
serve before planting, to dress their tops and roots the same 
as Celery. As they advance in growth, they ai*e to be 
earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together ; 
this may be done with bass or matting, as practised with 
Endive ; they are afterwards to be earthed up gradually 



CARROT. 49 

from time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. As 
winter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up and laid 
wway like Celery, or they may be preserved with sand in a 
<oellar. 



CARROT. 

Carotte. Daucus carotd. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Grange. 
Lou:j Orange. 
Altrin^ham. 



~i Long Lemon-coloured. 
g < Blood Red. 
M ( Long White. 



The Carrot is a native of Britain, and grows by the 
road sides, in many parts. As a culinary vegetable it is 
much used in soups and stews, and forms a dish with boiled 
beef, &.C. The coarse sorts are cultivated as fodder for cows, 
sheep, oxen, and liorses, and are considered profitable, as 
they frequently yield upwards of four hundred bushels to an 
acre. 

For the garden, the Early Orange should be cultivated 
for Spring and Summer use ; but the Long Orange and 
Altringham are more suitable for main crops, on account 
of their bright orange colour, as well as for their great 
size and length. They grow to great perfection in a 
rich loamy soil, and may be raised in drills drawn about one 
inch deep, and twelve inches asunder. A small bed may be 
planted the latter end of March for an early crop, and from 
that time to the end of May, for successive crops: but the 
principal crop should not be sown too soon, as the early 
plantings are apt to produce seed stalks, and consequently 
.stringy and useless roots. 

The most suitable ground for late carrots, is that 
which hasbeenwell manured for previous crops, and requires 
no fresh manure. If the seed be sown early in June, and the 
plants thinned out to the distance of five or six inches from 
each other when young, and kept hoed, they would yield an 
abundance of fine roots for winter and spring use, by being 
taken upin Autumn, and preserved either in sand in a cellar, 

5 



so CBLEBYr 

or graves covered np in a garden, as directed in the oahn^ 
dar for November. 

Although Carrot seed is naturally small and light, it sel' 
dom fails to vegetate in favourable seasons ; it, thereforOf 
need not be sown too thick in ground not apt to produce 
weeds. If a root could be insured to grow unmolested in 
every instance where a seed may be deposited, two pounds 
would be more than sufficient for an acre of land ; but gar- 
deners generally use four or five pounds to the acre, in 
order that the rows may be more easily traced in the 
event of a luxuriant growth of weeds. To avoid risking an 
unequal crop in small gardens, half an ounce of seed should 
be allotted for every pole, perch, or rod, or twenty ounces 
for a rood of land. On light ground, the use of a roller 
would be beneficial in dry weather, excess of which is detri- 
mental to the germination of Carrot, as well as of all other 
Ymht seeds. 



CELERY. 

Celeri. Apium graveolcns. 

VARIETIES. 

White Solid. I New Silver Giant. 

Red Coloured Solid. | North's Giant Red. 

Cclcriac, or Turnip-rooted. 

This vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is knowii 
in its wild state by the name of Srnallage ; and is found in 
great abundance by the sides of ditches, and near the sea-- 
coast of Britain. The efi'ects of cultivation are here stri" 
kingly exhibited, in producing from a rank, coarse weed, the 
mild and sweet stalks of the Celery. This circumstance 
should stimulate the young gardener to aim at improvements 
in the cultivation of plants in general. 

It is customary with some gardeners to raise their early 
plants in hot-beds ; but as plants thus raised are apt to pro- 
duce seed stalks, it is much safer to cultivate them in cold 
l>eds, prepared as directed for the raising of early Cabbage 
plants. The seed for a general crop may be sown the last 



CELERY. 51 

week in March, or early in April, in rich mellow ground, 
and in a situation where the plants could be protected from 
the parching heat of a summer sun (a border against a north 
aspect is the most suitable.) Some sow the seed broadcast, 
but the plants will be much stouter if raised in drills. The 
drills may be half an inch deep, and six inches apart, so that 
a small hoe can be worked between the rows ; and if pro- 
perly attended to, every ounce of seed so sown, will produce 
t'cn thousand strong plants or more. 

The early sown plants should be pricked out in a nur- 
sery bed of rich earth, as soon as they are two or three 
inches long, there to remain about a month, after which they 
will be fit to transplant into the trenches. 

Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open 
exposure, mark out the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches 
wide, and allow the space of three feet between them, which 
will be sufficient for the early plantations. Dig each trench 
a moderate spade deep, laying the dug out earth equally on 
each side, between the trenches; put three inches deep of 
very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the 
sides and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of 
the loose mould at the bottom, incorporating all well toge- 
ther, and put in the plants.* 

Previous to planting, trim the plants, by cutting off the 
long straggling leaves, and also the ends of the roots. Let 
them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the 
middle of each trench, five or six inches between plant and 
plant ; as soon as they are planted, give them a plentiful 



* Some gardeners are accustomed to cultivate Celery on the level ground; 
others, after making their trenches in the usual way, have gone to the 
f'xpense of carting peculiar soil from a distance, with which they reple- 
nished their trenches until nearly full. Those who have pursued the 
latter plan, say that they were rewarded for their trouble by gathering 
roots of superior size and quality ; but it is doubtful whether it would prove 
profitable to practice this plan on an extensive scale. It may, however, be 
judicious in those gardeners whose subsoil, or under stratum, is inferior, or 
ill adapted for the cultivation of Celery, to cultivate it in shallow drills, or 
furrows worked out with a plough, by which means they may secure good 
s.iil to plant in, and also to earth up with. In such cases the rows mvist be 
from four to five feet apart, and frequent ploughiHg between them woDfeJ 
ysemate the growth of the plants. 



52 CELERT. 

watering, and let them be shaded until they strike root and 
begin to grow. 

The main crops niay be planted in the same way» but in 
trenches four feet distant from each other, and an inch or 
two further from plant to plant; or in beds made in the fol- 
lowing manner, which for the ease of preserving the plants 
ia winter, will be found extremely convenient, besides a 
greater quantity can be raised on a given piece of ground. 

Lay out tlie ground into beds of four feet wide, with alleys 
between, of tliree feet ; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing 
the earth on the alleys: when done, lay four or five inches 
of good well-rotted dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig 
and incorporate it with the loose earth, and cover the whole 
with an inch or two of earth from the alleys ; plant four 
rows in each bed at equal distances, and from six to eight 
inches apart in the rows ; after which, give them a plentiful 
watering, and shade them. 

The plants must be hoed occasionally, until grown of 
sufficient size for earthing, which is done with the assistance 
of boards, by laying them along the rows, to support the 
leaves while you are putting in the earth from the alley*, 
and removing them as you progress in the business. 

The earthing should never be done when the plants are 
wet, as this is apt to make the Celery rusty, but should be 
performed gradually in fine weather as the plants progress 
in growth, repeating the earthing every two weeks; at which 
time care should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly, 
and not to bury the hearts of the plants. When they are 
'grown two feet high, and well blanched, they are fit for the 
table. 

As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one season, 
it will be necessary to delay the planting of that which is 
intended for winter use until the latter end of July, but the 
trenches should always be got ready soon enough to avoid 
a serious drought, which often delays the plantings till too 
late in the season. The blanching of Celery for winter usel^ 
may.be delayed until October. 



CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. 53 

By market gardeners who raise Celery on a large scale, 
the trenches maybe worked out with a plough, and finished 
with tt spade or hoe. The ground may be also ploughed 
between each row of Celery previous to earthing it up ; this 
will save much labour. 

The Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted, may be planted either 
on level ground or in shallow drills; the root of it swells 
like a Turnip, and may be preserved in sand through the 
winter. The French and Germans cut in slices, and soak 
it a few hours in vinegar ; by such simple preparation, it 
becomes mellow as a Pine Apple, and affords a delicious 
and very nourishing repast. 



CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. 

Mache ou doucette. Valeriana locusta. 

VARiETV. — Olitoria. 

This plant grows spontaneously in the cornfields of Eng- 
land, hence it is called Corn Salad, and from its being 
sufficiently hardy to stand the winter, it has acquired the 
appellation of Lamb's Lettuce, from its affording an early 
pasturage. It is cultivated as a salad for winter and early 
spring use. The seed may be sown in rich clean ground, the 
latter end of August or early in September. 

Some gardeners sow the seed in beds formed four or five 
feet wide, with paths between each bed, just sufficient to 
admit of room for hand-weeding ; but it will vegetate more 
freely if sown in drills half an inch deep, provided it be 
carefully covered. The drilLs maybe about six inches apart 
just sufficient to admit a small hoe to work between the 
rows ; as if the plants be not cleared of all weeds while 
young, they will be more plague than profit. 

Fetticus must be covered up with straw at the approach 
of severe weather, to preserve it in good condition for use 
in tlie early part of the ensuing spring, as that is the season 
which most amply remunerates the cultivator. 

5* 



■ 'A'i^ CRESS, AND WATER CRESS. 

The seed ofFetticus is small and light, but it will adinit 
of being sown thick, say at the rate of from four to six> 
pounds to the acre of land. 



CRESS. 
Gresson. Lapidium sativum. 

VARIETIES. 

' Curled, ok Peppergiass. | Broad-leaved Garden. 

Cress is a small salad herb, and is generally used with 
Lettuce, White Mustard, Rape, Chervil, &,c. It nmy be sown 
in little drills very thick, as should Salad seeds in general, 
and cut before it comes into rough leaf, A small quantity 
in the salad season, which is Spring and Autumn, may be 
sown every week in rich ground free from weeds. 



CRESS-WATER. 

Cresson de FONTAINE. Sisi/mbrium nasturtium. 

The Water Cress is a creeping amphibious perennial, and 
is grown very extensively for the London markets. Loudon 
says, in his Encyclopcedia of Gardening, that "The most 
suitable description of water is a clear stream, not more 
than an inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel; 
the least favourable, deep still water, or a muddy bottom. It 
is highly advantageous to make the plantations in newly 
risen spring water, as the plants do not only thrive better in 
it, but in consequence of its being rarely frozen, they gene- 
rally continue in vegetation, and in a good state for gather- 
ing, through the whole winter season. The plants are 
disposed in rows parallel with the course of the stream, 
about eighteen inches apart. When these plants begin to 
grow in water one inch and a half deep, they soon check the 
current so as to raise the water to the height of three inches 
above the plants, which is considered the most favourable 



cucuMBEK; 55' 

jHrcumstanee in wliich they can be placed; It is absolutely 
necessary to have a constant current, as where there is any 
obstruction to the stream, the plants cease to thrive. After 
they have been cut about three times, they begin to stock, 
and tlien the oftenerthey are cut the better." 



CUCUMBER. 

CoNcoMBRE. Cucumis sativus, etc. 

VARIETIES. 

Early Frame. i Long Green Southgate, 

Early Green Cluster. | Long green Turkey. 

Early Green Table. Long White Turkey. 

Long Prickly. White Opined. 

Short Prickly. | West India, or Gherkin- 

The Cucumis sativus, or common Cucumber, is a native- 
of the East Indies, and of nearly as great antiquity as the 
vine. It was introduced into England in 1573, and is ex- 
tensively cultivated in forcing frames, and in the open air<- 
In March, they are sold in the London markets for a guinea 
a dozen ; and in August and September, for one penny per 
dozen. 

As Cucumbers are much used in New- York, it 
should be an object with gardeners to have them in the 
market early ; directions for raising them out of the ordi- 
hary season, are therefore given in a future page, under the 
head forcing vegetables, to which the reader is referred. 
Cucumbers may be raised in the open ground, by planting 
seed the first week of May, in hills four feet apart; or 
if the ground be light, basins formed an inch below the level 
of the surface would be beneficial.* Previous to planting, 
the ground should be prepared by incorporating a shovelful 
of rotten dung, with the earth in each hill, after which four 
or five seeds may be planted half an inch deep. One ounce 

* The term hill is frequently made use of by gardeners and farmers, 
to designate a situation allotted for a given number of seeds, whereas, 
such seeds are more frequently deposited below the level of the surface 
than above it; yet, as the plants progress in growth, hills are frequently 
formed around them, which makes the term ap^ilicable, or rather 
reconcile.^ the apparent contradiction. 



56 CHITES, OR CIVES. 

of good sound seed is sufficient for two hundred hills and 
upwards. 

Cucumbers are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, 
which sometimes devours young plants ; these and other 
insects may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, pow- 
dered charcoal, and the like, round about the vines when 
they first come up. After this is done, the plants may be 
thinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground carefully 
hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the same time. 
The vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the 
weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and then, 
given in the evening, will be of considerable service. 

Picklers may be raised by planting the seed at any time 
in July. When the vines begin to bear, they should be 
looked over, and the fruit gathered as fast ks it becomes fit, 
as the plant will cease to bear much, if the fruit be permitted 
to get yellow. 



CHIVES, OR CIVES. 

CivETTE. Allium schctnoprasum. 

This is a small species of Onion, growing in large tufts ; 
they are propagated by offsets from the roots, and may be 
planted either in Spring or Autumn, in rows ten or twelve 
inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in the 
rows ; they will soon take root, and increase very fast into 
large bunches of bulbs. They make handsome edging to 
beds or borders. 



EGG-PLANT. 

Melongene otj aubergine. Solanum melongena. 

VARIETIES. 

Purpb.for cookin;j. | White, for ornament. 

Seed of the Purple Egg-plant may be sown in a hot- 
bed about the first of March, and the sashes kept down 
close until the plants come up, after which a little air may 



EGG PLAN!. ST 

be given in the lieat of the day.* Towards die middle of 
May, if settled warm weather, the plants should be set out 
from twenty-four to thirty inches apart, in a rich warm 
piece of ground, and if kept clean, and a little earth be 
drawn up to their stems, when about a foot high, they will 
produce plenty of fruit. 

Plants of the white variety may be raised in the same 
•^'^nner, and transplanted into pots in May ; or if some of' 
the seed be sown in a warm situation the first week in May, 
these may come to perfection in the course of the summer. 
This variety, though generally cultivated for ornament, is 
good when cooked. 

As Egg Plants will not grow in the open ground until, 
settled warm weather, and are apt to perish from being 
transplanted too early, the gardener should be provided 
with small pots, in order that the plants may be transplanted 
therein early in May, and placed in a fi-ame, there to remain 
until the first week in June, at which time if they are turned 
out and planted, with the balls of earth entire, they will 
soon take root and grow freely. 

Select the fruit when at maturity; cut it into slices, and 
parboil it in a stewpan ; when softened, drain off the water ; 
it may then be fried in batter made with wheaten flour and 
an egg, or in ffesh butter with bread grated fine, seasoned 
before it is put in the pan, with pepper, salt, thyme, and 
such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use 
Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, &c. 



* Egg-Plaut seed will not vegetate freely without substantial heat ; 
but with proper management, upwards of four thousand plants may be 
raised from an ounce of seed. If these plants get the least chilled in 
progress of growth, they seldom recover; it is, therefore, important 
Uiat the frame allotted for them, be placed over a well-regulated hot-bed, 
and partitioned off, so that the sash can be kept down over the plants 
in cool weather. 

Some Gardeners raise Egg-plants in the same frame with Oabbage 
and such other half hardy plants as require air every mild day ; by such 
management, one or the other must suffer for want of suitable aliment— 
Heat being the principal food of tender plants, and Air that of themqre; 
Jiardy species. 



58 
ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. 

CnicoREE DES jAKDiNS. Oickorium endiva, etc. 

VARIETIES. 

iiri'cn Curled I Golden Yellow. 

White Curled. 1 Brond-lcaved Batavian. 

The Cickorium endiva is a native of China and Japan, 
and is much used in salads and stews, and as a garnish for 
the table. 

The proper kind of seed for early sowing, is the Green 
Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at different 
times in April and May, for those who would have it early. 
These crops will be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason, 
it will be best to delay the sowings of seed for general crops 
until June or July. If a small quantity of each esteemed 
variety be sown two or three times in these months, they will 
produce a plentiful supply for use in Autumn and the early 
part of Winter. One ounce of good Endive seed will pro- 
duce about 5000 plants, :■ 

When the plants are three or four inches high, they should 
be transplanted into good ground, to the distance of a foot 
from each other, and immediately watered ; or if they are 
set out in cloudy or wet Aveather, it will save this trouble. 
The plants will require to be hoed and attended to in the 
same manner as Lettuce, until grown to a moderate size, 
when they must be blanched. Select the large and full- 
hearted plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a 
little above the middle, not too tight, previously gathering 
up the leaves regularly in the hand. This must be done 
when the leaves are very dry, otherwise the plants would rot. 
The Cichorium intyhus grows spontaneously in many 
])arts of Europe and America. In France it is much culti- 
vated ; the tops of the plants are considered profitable for 
cattle, and the roots are taken up in Autumn, and dried. 
The aromatic and volatile qualities of coffee are, by the 
combination of this root, rendered more mellow and full 
upon the palate, and its fragrance greatly increased, pro- 
dacing an agreeable tonic, and most exhilarating beverxkge. 



59 HORSfi'-RADlSM. 

Sow the seed in April in drills half an inch deep, and 
about ei j;hteen inches apart ; thin out to six or eight inches 
in the row. The plant produces beautiful blue flowers, and 
is worthy of a place in the flower garden. The roots, when 
dried, roasted as coffee, and ground, may be mixed in the 
proportion of two ounces of the powder with a pound of 
coffee. 



I 



HORSE-RADISH. 

Eaifort. Cochlcaria armoracia. 



This plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either 
cut? from the top about two inches long, or by offsets, or 
otBerwise useless parts, from the sides of the main root, 
retaining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as 
possible. These should be planted as early in the spring as 
■ practicable, in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches 
/' from each other in the rows. 

/ Select for the bed a good depth of soil, and such as will 

retain moisture, manure it with good rotten dung, plough or 
dig it deep, and with a drilling machine or other convenient 
implement, draw drills a foot apart — then plant with a 
dibble, cuttings as above described, in every alternate drill, 
from two to three inches deep. The intermediate drills may 
be planted Avilh Beet or Carrot seed, or that of any other 
root, but Turnip Beets are the most suitable to cultivate 
between the rows, as they will grow quick, and can be 
pulled out, without disturbing the Horse Radish. 

The Beets must of course be thinned out while young, 
and kept cultivated by hoeing between the rows, which will 
also benefit the Horse-Radish. After the Beets are pulled, 
hoe the ground again, and keep it clear of weeds, by which 
method the bed may be cleared every year. 

Some cultivate Horse-Radish in a permanent bed, in 
which case, if in taking up the roots some offsets be left 
in the ground, they will produce a successive supply for 
future years. 



m 

INDIAN CORN. 
Mats. Zea mayz. 

VARIETIES. 

"Early JDutton. \ ^ i Gobbet's Early Normandy. 

Early Tuscarora. f ^:; j Southern Horsetooth. 

Early Canadian. \ fz I Earlv Golden Sioux 

Sweet, or Sugar. ' ? ' Mottled, and Curious PearL 

Thk different varieties of Early Corn intended for boiling 

when young, or others as curiosities, may be planted in the 

garden the last week in April, or early in May, in hills four 

feet apart, or in drills. If some of each esteemed variety be 

planted in separate beds at the same time, they will come in 

for the table one after the other in regular succession. After 

this, if any particular variety be preferred, it may be planted 

at different plantings in the months of May and June. If 

the ground be poor, mix a shovelful of old manure with the 

earth in each hill before the seeds are planted, and after the 

plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup full of wood ashes 

around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and hilling, 

will cause it to produce ears early. Deep digging between 

the hills is very beneficial when the corn is about eighteen 

inches high. 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 

Pom ME DE TERRE. Hcliantlius tuberosum. 
This plant is a native of America. The tubers of the 
root which are generally abundant, were, before potatoes 
became improved by cultivation, in great esteem, and are 
yet considered a fine flavoured and nutritious food, when 
boiled and mashed with butter. They may be easily propa- 
gated by cutting the roots into sets, with two eyes in each, 
and planting them in the same manner as potatoes, in 
March and April. To have them in perfection, they should 
be hoed frequently, and the ground kept loose around them. 
In digging them for use, care should be taken to gather them 
out clean, as the least particle being left will grow the year 
following, and encumber the ground, whhout producing a 
crop worth standing. 



LEEK. 

PoiRREAU. Allium porrurit. 



VARIETIES. 



Scotch, or Flag 



Large London. 



This is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy as 
:o endure the extremes of heat and cold without injury. The 
^eed may be sown in March, or early in April, on a bed of 
rich earth, in drills about an inch deep, and of a sufficient 
distance apart to admit of a small hoe working between the 
rows, allowing one ounce of seed for every three thousanc' 
plants that may be required. 

If the ground be kept loose and clean around the plants 
they will be fit to transplant in June, or early in July, and 
should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve inches 
asunder, and the plants five or six inches apart in the rows. 
They will grow well in a warm border, which at this season 
is useless for many kinds of vegetables. After the planti; 
have taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept 
free from weeds. 

Those who wish to have leeks blanched, may plant then'. 
in trenches three or four inches deep, and as the plants 
progress in growth, the earth should be drawn by a hoe intr 
the trenches. 



LETTUCE. 

Laitue. Lactuca sativa crhpa. 



VARIETIES. 



Large Green heed. 
Dutch, or Cabbage. 
Tennis Ball, ir Rose. 
Madeira, or Passion. 
Large Green Curled. 
Egyptian Green CooS. 



1 - 

> = " 

< 0.(6 



Early Silesia. 
Imperial, or Sugar Loaf. 
Pdle Green, or Butter. 
Grind Admiral. 
Large Summer Silesia. 
Bri;ihton, or Loaf Coss. 



It would be easy to furnish a more extensive catalogue 
of Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but as this is one 
•of those kinds of vegetables that can only be raised in per- 

6 



0» LEXTUbE. 

fection dttritig mild and temperate weather, it is need/ess (of 
the gardener to plant any in the open ground, but such a» 
ftavc been tested, and found to stand a tolerable share of 
warm weather, which generally prevails in May and June, 
and consequently cuts short the Salad season. Those who 
liave been accustomed to raise Head Lettuce in any quantity, 
know the trouble of preparing and planting the ground, and 
the loss they would sustain, if scv(;ral thousand of plants run 
up to seed just as they appeared to be perfecting for market. 
As this is often the case, even with the very best attention, I 
would caution gardeners to test such plants as they are not 
acquainted with, before they set out any quantity with a 
view to their heading. 

The six varieties inserted in the first column of our 
catalogue, have been known to stand our Winters, and may 
be sown from the first to the middle of September, in rich 
ground free from weeds ; they answer very wcil sown with 
{Sj)inach, and should be covered over with straw at the 
approach of severe weather. These ])lants, if transplanted' 
into warm borders, or in the open ground, as early in March 
as the weather permits, will produce fine heads early in 
the month of May. 

■ The bestof the tender kinds of Lettuce should be sown in 
moderate hot-beds early in March, which being transplanted 
into good ground by the middle of j\pril, will produce thei*' 
heads before the a])proacli of warm weather. Such kinds as 
are known to produce heads in hot weather, and also such 
as may be required to cut as ;». small Salad while young, 
may be sown in warm borders in March and April, but 
those intended for heading should be transplanted as soon as 
they are an inch or two in height, and kept in a growing 
state by frequent hoeing, or they may run up to seed as th^ 
season advances. 

If it be an object with the gardener to have good strong 
Lettuce plants for transplanting, the seed should be sown 
very thin. One ounce of good seed is sufficient for a border 
of six feet in width by eighteen feet in length, and will pro- 
duce from ten to twelve thousaiid plants. 



MELON 



63 



M kinds of Lettuce intended for heading, ghouid be 
planted in go^>d jrround twelve inches distant from each 
other every way ; the plants should be carefully hoed every 
other week, during their g^rowth ; the firgt hoeing ehould be 
done in about two weeks after they are transplanted. 

The Coss Lettuoe requires to be blanched ; this is done by 
<ratherin? up the leaves of the plants, and tjing bass ro<jnd 
them when grown te perfection. 

If Head Lettuc*: be required at other seasons than the 
Spring, it aiay be obtaine^i in Autumn by sowing seed in 
AuoTJst, or in the Winter, by means of garden fraraes ami 
glazed easbes. See article on forcing vegetable*. 



ilELON. 



Helox. Cucumit rntlo. 

V4KIETIE3. 

Gi»B Citron. -. ^ | Lar»e Ydlow C'antelenpe. 

Mnrr^'x I^neAp^. I 2 | Mtiwrea, or Netted do. 

Pe&isa. ^ =^ I Poai«fiaiiale,orMiufc8c«Bted. 

.Star, Fine Late. 3 I- I SsJce* (eariow.) 

The 3Ielon is an exotic plant, growing wild in Asia. It 
is cultivated in all the warm eoontries of Europe, and aJsrj 
in Africa and America, where its salobrioos and cooling 
fruit is greatly esteemed. 

For the varieties of the Musk «• Cantelenpe 31elons, pre- 
pare a piece of rich groond the first week in May ; manure 
it and give it a good digging ; then mark it out into squares 
of six feet every way ; at the an^ of every square, di^ a 
iiole twelve inches deep and ^^biteen over, into wfaieh pat 
aboat Hx indbes deep of old rotlen dung ; tfanrr thoeon 
about tour iatken of earth, and mix the dang and earth weH 
with the spade ; afier which draw nuve earth over the mix- 
ture, so as to fatm a eirealar hill aboirt: a foot broad at top. 
Fora defiiMfwaof the tenn ** kill,^ see aitiele CneuaAter. 
Wh^ yoor hills are all p rep are d, (rfant in each towards the 
eeotie, nx or dgitt grans of seed, distant two inches from 
laaocher, and cowrtlMaiaboat half an inch deep. X)ne 



\U 



WATER MELON. 



ounce of good Melon seed will plant about one hundredan^-! 
twenty hills. 

When the plants are in a state of forwardness, producing 
their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in 
each hill; draw earth from time to time round the hills, and 
as high about the roots of the plants as the seed leaves. 
As soon as the plants spread into branches, they should be 
stopped, by pinching off the top of the first runner bud ; this 
will strengthen the plants and promote their perfecting the 
fruit early ; after which keep the ground perfectly free from 
weeds by frequent hoeings. 

There are many varieties of the Melon, highly estimated 
in Europe, which do not succeed in this country ; the gar. 
dener should, therefore, plant only such as have been tested 
ynd found to produce good fruit here, or our superior old 
sorts may become degenerate. After a judicious selection 
is made, if caution be not used to plant the different sorts 
remote from each other, also from cucumbers, squashes, and 
gourds, degeneracy will infallibly be the consequence. To 
prevent the ravages of flies, &c. see General Remarks. 



WATER MELON. 

Melon d'eau. Cucurhita citrullus. 

VAF.IETIES. 

Long Island. I Apple seeded. 

Carolina. | Citron, for preserves. 

Goodwin's Scarlet Imperial. 

The Water Melon, though by some considered a species 
of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic plants. They 
afford a very refreshing article of luxury in our warm sum- 
mers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of bis journey to the south- 
ern provinces in Russia, in 1793 and 94, speaking of a 
colony of Moravians at Sarepta, or Sapa, on the river Volga, 
says, "The ingenious inhabitants of this town brew a kind 
of beer from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons, 
with the addilion of Hops ; they also prepare a conserve or; 



MUSTARD. ^5 

imamialade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for 
syrup or treacle." 

In order to have Water Melons in good perfection, you 

' must fix upon a piece of very rich light soil ; prepare, plant 

and manage it in every respect as is directed for the others,, 

only let the hills be seven or eight feet distant every way. 

One ounce of seed will plant from forty to fifty hills. 



MUSTARD. 

MouTARDE. Sinapis. 

VARIETIES. 
White. 1 Black. 

The Alba, or White Mustard, grows spontaneously in 
the fields of England ; it is also cultivated as a small Salad, 
as well as for seed. The seed yields from every hundred 
pounds, from thirty-three to thirty- six pounds of sweet 
mild oil. 

White Mustard Seed is much used as a medicine, and per- 
sons subject to disordered stomachs often derive great benefit 
by taking a spoonful of the dry seed, two or three times a 
day. Some use it in pickles, to which it imparts an agree- 
able flavour, and renders Cucumbers in particular more 
salutary. 

The Nigra, or Common Mustard, is also a native of 
England. The condiment, called Mustard, and in daily 
use at our table, is prepared from the seed of this species. 

The seeds of each variety may be sown in clean rich 
ground in April and May; and for a fall Salad inSeptembev^ 
in shallow drills. 



66 
NASTURTIUM. 

Capucine. Tropceolum. 

This is an annual plant, a native of Peru, and is liigKI/- 
lieserving of cultivation for the sake of its brilliant orange 
and crimson coloured flowers, as well as for the berries, 
•wliich, if gathered while green and pickled in vinegar, 
make a good substitute for capers, and are used in melted 
butter, with boiled mutton, &c. 

The seeds should be sown in April, or early in Blay, in 
drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales; or trellises 
should be fixed on which they can climb and have support, 
for they will always be more productive in this way than- 
^vhen suffered to trail on the ground. 



OKRA. 

GoMBOi Hibiscus esculentus. 

The green capsules of this plant are used in soupsj 
stews, &c., to which they impart a rich flavour, and are 
considered nutritious. Its ripe seeds, if burnt and ground 
like cofiee, can scarcely be distinguished therefrom. 

The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first 
or second week in May, if settled warm weather, but not 
othei^wise, as it is a very tender vegetable. Draw drills 
about an inch deep, and three or four feet asunder, into 
which drop tiie seeds at the distance of six or eight inches 
from one another, or rather drop two or three in each place, 
lest the one should not grow, and cover them nearly an inch 
deep ; as the plants advance in growth, thin them out, earth 
them up two or three times^and they will produce abundantly. 



67 
ONION. 

OiGiVON. Allium cepa, etc. etc. 

VARIETIES. 



White Portugal. 
Silver Skinned. 
Deptford Red. 



Yellow Dutch. 
Strasburgh, or Flanders. 
Madeira, (imported.) 



Of the several varieties of Onions, the Yellow or Silver 
Skinned, and Deptford Red, are the best for a general crop. 
The bulbs are handsome, of firm growth, and keep well 
through the Winter. The white Portugal are handsome for 
the table, very suitable for pickling ; also to pull while 
young : and generally prove a very profitable crop. 

Previous to sowing Onion seed for a general crop, the 
ground should be well prepared by digging in some of the 
oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier 
this be done in the Spring, the better ; and the planting 
should not be delayed loiiger than the middle of April. The 
seed may be sown moderately thick in drills one inch 
deep, and twelve inches apart 

Those who cultivate Onions for the sake of their bulbs, 
may nse at the rate of four or five pounds of seed per acre. 
As market gardeners, in the vicinity of large cities,, 
find it most profitable to pull a great proportion of their 
Onions while young, they generally require at the rate of 
from eight to ten pounds of seed to an acre of land. 

When the plants are up strong, they should be hoed. 
Those beds that are to stand for ripening, should be thinned 
out while young, to the distance of two or three inches from 
each other ; if a few should be required for use after this, 
those can be taken which incline more to tops than roots, 
and if the beds be frequently looked over, and the small and 
stalky plants taken away where they stand thickest, the 
remaining bulbs will grow to a larger size. The plants 
should be hoed at least three times in the early part of their 
growth ; but if the season prove damp, and weeds vegetate 
luxuriantly, they must be removed by the hand, because, 
after the Onions have begun to bulb, it would be improper, 
to. stir them with a hoe. 



68 ONION. 

When the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions, it 
is time to take them up, for from this tiitie the fibrous roots 
decay. After they are pulled, they should be laid out to 
dry, and when dry, removed to a place of shelter. 

The small Onions may be planted in the Spring following : 
even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good 
bulbs, if the seed stems be taken off as soon as they appear. 

The Allium fistulosiun, or Welsh Onions, are cultivated 
for Spring salad ; they form no bulbs, but are very hardy. 
If the seed be sown early in September in rich ground, 
although the crops may die down in the Winter, yet the 
roots will continue sound, and put up new leaves early in 
the Spring. 

The Allium cepa, or common White and Red Onions, 
are most generally cultivated by market gardeners as a sub- 
stitute for the Allium fistulosum ; they sow the seed in the 
Spring and Autumn months, the product of which is pulled 
and sent to market while young, and generally meets a 
ready sale. 

The Allium prolifcrum, or Tree Onion, is propagated by 
planting the bulbs in Spring or Autumn, either the root bulbs, 
or those produced on the top of the stalks ; the latter, if 
planted in the Spring, will produce fine Onions. These may 
be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots. 

The Potatoe Onion is of late introduction into this coun- 
try. It does not produce seed as other Onions, but it increa- 
ses by the root. One single Onion, slightly covered, Avill 
produce six or seven in a clump, partly under ground. 

The bulbs are generally planted in the Spring, from twelve 
to eighteen inches apart, but they will survive the Winter, 
and yield better by being planted in Autumn, if slightly 
.covered with dung, litter, or leaves of trees. 



69 
PARSLEY. 

Persil. Apium petroselinum. 

VARIETIES. 



Dwarf Curled. 
Extra Curled. 
Single or Common. 



Hardy Siberian. 

Large Rooted Hamburg. 

Large Rooted Naples. 



Parsley is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild in 
inoist climates, but has been greatly improved by cultiva-. 
tion. The leaves of Common Parsley are used as a pot 
herb, and those of the Extra Curled kinds make a fine 
garnish. The Large Rooted are generally cooked for the 
table in Autumn and Winter, like Parsnips. 

As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt to lay in 
the ground some time before it vegetates, and often fails in 
dry weather, the general crop should be sown by the early 
part of April, in drills an inch deep, and one foot asunder, 
allawing at the rate of about six or seven pounds of seed to 
the acre, or two ounces for every three perches of land. 
After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent 
hoeings. The Large Rooted Parsley should be thinned out 
while young, and managed the same as Carrots and 
Parsnips. 

In order to have Parsley green through tlie Winter, the 
old leaves should be picked oiF in September. If some of 
the roots be taken up early in November, and laid in a 
frame, or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long 
time ; the remainder may be covered up with straw in the 
place where it grows. 

If some Parsley seed be sown in frames in Spring or 
Summer, it may be preserved for Winter use without the 
trouble of removing it. 



70 
PARSNIP. 

Panais. Pastinaca saliva. 

VARIETIES, 

Long Guernsey Cup. | Large Dutch, or Common. 

This is a hardy biennial plant, common in calcareous 
soils; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and forms 
a vegetable dish in the Winter, with salt meat, salted 
fish, &c. 

Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of March 
to the last week, in April, in drills one inch deep and four- 
teen inches apart ; and as this vegetable requires the whole 
season to grow in, the sooner the seed is planted the better. 
Parsnips grow best in a deep soil, manured well the preced- 
ing fall. Sow the seeds thick along the drills, at the rate of 
five or six pounds per acre, and rake them in evenly. * , 

When the plants are two or three inches high, thin them 
to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They 
should be kept free from weeds, by regular hoeings through 
the Summer, and in Autumn they will be fit for use ; but 
they improve in flavour after having been frozen, and will 
endure the severity of a hard Winter. See calendar for 
Nov^ember. 

Parsnips require from thirty to forty minutes boiling, 
according to their size and age. Some boil them in water, 
seasoned with salt, until tender; but they are better when 
boiled with salt pork, and afterwards mashed and fried in 
butter. 



* This plant, although when in full growth will endure the extremes 
of heat and cold, it requires peculiar management to promote and pre- 
serve germination in an early stage of culture. In order to give the 
seed a fair chance, it should be planted in such ground as is susceptible 
of moisture, and that is not apt to incrust when dry. The seed should 
be dropped thick along the drills, and well covered — as single or solitary 
plants are apt to perish, from not having sufficient strength to open the 
pores of the earth, and in the event of drought such plants die ofFjire- 
maturely. If cultivated in light or dry ground, the same should be 
rolled or pressed immediately after dejiositing tlie seed therein, to pre 
«erve moisture, 



71 
PEPPER. 

PoiVRE OV PIMENT. CapsicuM, 

VARIETIES. 

Grossum, or Bell Pepper. I Long Red, or Bird's BilL- 

Tomato shaped, or Squash. I Cherry, or West Indian. 

Sweet Spanish ; used as a Salad, has a very delicate taste. 

This family of plants are natives of the East and West 
Indies; some of their capsules, or pods, are yellow, and 
others red, when at maturity ; they are much used for pick- 
ling, and should be gathered for that purpose befoi'e they 
are fully ripe. 

The seeds of the different kinds of Capsicums may be 
sown in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border, early in 
May. One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand 
plants. When the plants arrive at the height of from one 
to two inches, they should be transplanted into good rich 
ground, from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each 
other. 

Those who do not want Peppei-s early in the season, 
may sow soaie seed in the open ground in May, in drills two 
feet asunder, and half an inch deep. When the plants are 
grown an inch or two high, thin them to the distance of 
tifteen or eighteen inches in the rows. The ground should 
be afterwards hoed deep round the plants, and kept free 
from weeds by repeated hoeings. 

The Capsicum Grossum, or Bell Pepper, is perennial, and 
will keep in perpetual bearing in warm climates. In Eng- 
land this species is considered superior to all others, on 
account of its skin being thick, and also pulpy and tender 5 
the plants are therefore frequently preserved in hot-houses 
during the Winter and Spring, and kept in the open air ir> 
settled warm weather. 



72 
PEAS. 

Pois. Pisum sativum. 

VARIETIES. 



•bishop's Early Dwarf, 1 foot. 
■Early Washington, '3 feet. 
Early Frame, 2 1-2. 
Early Charlton, 3 feet. 
Double Blossom Frame, 3 feet. 
Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 2 feet 
Dwarf Spanish, or Fan, 1 foot.' 
Early Nimble Dick, 3 1-2 feet. 
Early Warwick, 3 feet. 
Dwarf Blue, Imperial, 2 feet. 
Waterloo Blue, 4 feet. 
Groom's Dwarf Blue Prolific, 4 feet. 



Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2 1-2 feet 
Dwarf Marrowfat, 3 1-2 feet. 
Ladies' Finger Marrows, 4 feet. 
Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet. 
Knight's Tall Marrow, 6 feet. 
Knight's Dwnrf Marrow, 3 feet. 
Woodford's Green Prolific, 6 feet. 
Large Grey Rouncival, 4 feet. 
Dwarf Sugar (eatable pods) 3 feet. 
Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 feet. 
French Bouquet, or Sugar, 3 1-2 ft. 
Albany Field, in varieties. 



The above list and description of the most esteemed 
kinds of Peas, are taken from the catalogue of Mr. G. C. 
Thorburn. If they are rightly described, they will grow to 
different heights, according to soil and season. This 
description, however, may serve as a guide for the gardener 
in planting. The dwarf Peas require less distance between 
row and row, and shorter sticks than the tall kinds. 

Planting the early kinds of Peas should commence as 
soon in the Spring as the ground can be brought into good 
condition ; all the other sorts, as well as the early, will 
answer for successive crops ; to obtain which, a few of the 
most esteemed varieties should be planted at the same time 
every two weeks, from March until the end of May. Per- 
sons desirous of having Peas throughout the Summer and 
Autumn may plant a few in June, July and August. The 
Peas should be then soaked in soft water, five or six hours 
before planting, and if the ground be dry, it should be 
watered in the drills. 

Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas, 
some plant them in ridges, others in drills, some in single 
rows, others in double, some use sticks for the dwarf kinds, 
and others not ; those who study neatness should, however, 
have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish may do 
without. 

All the different sorts of Peas may be planted in double 
*or single rows, from four to six feet apart, according to the 



TEAS. 73 

"v5ifferent Tieights they may be expected to grow. If two 
drills be made three inches deep, and about nine inches 
apai-t, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately 
thick, they will yield better than single rows, and will save 
sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high, let 
them be hoed, drawing at the same time a little earth up to 
their stems ; when they get to double that height, let them 
be hoed again, at the same time place a row of sticks in the 
middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller 
ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb- 
bing to their main support. You must be governed as to 
the length of your sticks by the description of your Peas. 
There is great advantage in having slicks of a suitable 
height to the various kinds of Peas ; the sticks should not 
only be sufficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants 
may readily take hold ; and they should be prepared fan 
fashion, so that the side branches may extend oniy along 
the rows. As the plants progress in growth, let them be 
repeatedly hoed and earthed up ; tliis will promote a plen- 
tiful bearing. 

One quart of Peas will plant from one hundred and fifty 
to two hundred feet of row, allowing the largest kinds to 
average one inch apart, and the smallest, two peas to the 
inch. 

To have green peas in perfection, they should be gathered 
while young, and cooked immediately after they are shelled, 
or they will soon lose their colour and sweetness. Let the 
water be seasoned with salt, and boiled ; then put in the 
Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease ihe cover 
so as to let off the steam ; they require about fifteen minutes 
boiling, or five minutes more or less, according to the asfe 
>ind care bestowed. Taste and try in time, so as to have 
them done to a nicety. 

The Sugar Peas have no inner tough film, or skin, to the 
pods, like the common sorts ; they should therefore be 
boiled without shelling, and served up the same as Kidney 
Beans. 



POTATOES. 

PoMME DE TERRE. Solanum tuherosuiti. 

The Potatoe is known to be a native of the Southern pert* 
of America, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. 

The varieties being, very numerous, it is unnecessary for" 
me to point out any particular kinds ; some of the earliest 
should, ^however, be planted first in the spring, to produce 
voung Potatoes in due season, but they are not so suitable 
for a full crop as the late varieties. 

Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various expedients- 
have been contrived with a view to find out the best method 
of preparing the seed. In many parts of England, (where 
Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers 
seldom plant them whole; they take the Potatoes as they 
come to hand, a^nd in cutting them take care to have two 
good eyes in each set ; the small [Potatoes are deprived of 
the sprout or nose end, as it is generally considered that a 
redundancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak 
plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. I have 
frequently known from five to six hundred bushels raised 
from an acre with small Potatoes alone cut in this way- 
Some prefer planting the sets immediately after they are 
cut ; the better way is to get them cut a week before the 
time of plantings and to lay them out on a barn, or garret 
floor, to dry. 

It will require from twelve to sixteen bushels of Potatoes 
to plant an acre of ground, according to the size and nature 
of the seed roots, the manner of preparing, and mode of 
planting the same. 

Potatoes may be planted from the first week in April until 
July, either in hills or drills ; the best way for a garden is ta 
plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about 
thirty inches asunder ; the sets may be dropped six or eight 
inches apart; and if a small quantity of combmaker's horn 
shavings or sea weed, be used as a manure for the early 
kinds, it will expedite their growth ; the ground should be 
hoed as soon as the plants come up, and as they progress ii> 
growth, it will be proper to mould or earth them »p twice. 



75 
POTATOE, SWEET. 

f^OMME DE TERRE DOUCE. CoUVOlvuluS bataftts. 

Sweet Potatoes are grown to great perfection in tke 
.Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of New" 
York, by means of a moderate hot-bed, in which they should 
he planted whole, early in April, three or four inches deep, 
and about the same distance apart. In about a month they 
will throw up sprouts. When these are three inches above 
ground, part them off from the Potatoe^ which, if suffered to 
remain, will produce more sprouts for a successive planting ; 
transplant them into rich light soil, in rows four feet apart, 
and the plants about a foot apart, in the rows, or in hills 
four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds, until the vines 
.begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow freely. 
In sandy grouml, it is well to put a shovelful of rotten 
manure to each plant. 

A moderate hot-bed, five feet square, put doivn early iu 
the month of April, with half a peck of good sound Sweet 
Potatoes placed therein, will produce a succession of sprouts 
in May and June, which if planted and managed as directed,, 
will yield about fifteen bushels of good roots. 



PUMPKIN. 

CiTROuiiiLE ou PoTiRON% Cucurbita pejpo. 



VARIETIES. 



Finest Yellow Family. 
Large Cheese. 
Mammoth, or Spanisli. 



Connecticut Field, 

White Bell. 

Seven Years, or Long-keeping- 



This plant is highly deserving cultivation, particularly in 
new settlements; the large sorts are profitable for cattle, as 
some of the mammoth tribe have been known to weigh 
upwards of two hundred pounds each; the other kinds are 
also very productive, and may be raised on any waste land, 
provided it will admit of digging small spots, of a foot or 
twQ dimen&ione, every ten or twelve feet, for the hills, and 



76 KADISH. 

that the residue of the ground be unencumbered for the 
plants to run on. The) are generally raised on cultivated 
.tarms, between hills of Indian Corn, and may be planted iu 
the garden or open field, in May or June, in hills eight or 
ten feet apart, v/ith three or four seeds in each hill. 

One quart of Field Pumpkin Seed will plant from five to 
six hundred hills. An ounce of the finer kinds will plant 
from fifty to eighty hills. 

Pumpkins are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either 
Melons or Cucumbers, but, in other respects, are cultivated 
in the same manner, only that in raising them on a large 
scale, the ground may be prepared with a plough, and also 
afterwards, as the weeds advance, the plough and harrow 
may be used between the plants until they begin to run^ 
which will save much labour. 

The fine&t quality Pumpkins are known to make good 
pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked up with 
wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose they are fully 
equal to Indian meal. The knowledge of this fact may 
prove advantageous to farmers living at a distance from 
cities, as they may find a market for their grain or meal 
(>asier than for their Pumpkins. 



RADISH, 
Radis ou eave. KapJianits sativus^. 

VARIETIES. 



Long White Naples. 
Purple Turnip. 
Yellow Turnip. 
White Spanish. 
Black Spani.-h. 



Long Scarlet. 
Long Purple. 
Scarlet Pear shape. 
Scarlet Turnip. 
White Turnip Rooted. 

The different varieties of Radishes are extensively culti- 
vated near large cities, chiefly for their roots, which are 
considered a luxury afccr a hard Winter, and prove accept- 
able as the warm weather approaches, provided they can be 
obtained in perfection. The plant is also cultivated for the 
sake of the seed leaves, which are used as a small Salad j 



awd even the seed pods, if pickled while young and green, 
are by some considered a good substitute for Capers. 

Those who may be desirous of having good Radishes 
«arly in the Spring, should have a warm border prepared in 
the very best manner, so as to be ready to sow some of the 
Short Top Scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground 
should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this 
time, let it be delayed a few days, and by the first of April, 
lake care to have another bed prepared in the open ground, 
by digginff in some good strong manure. The seed may be 
Sown broadcast, and raked in evenly, or in drills drawn 
about one inch deep, and a foot apart. 

If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow 
seeds of the'most esteemed varieties every two weeks, until the 
middle of May: if any be sown after this, it should be the 
sorts described in the second column of our catalogue. 
These will endure the heat better than the others, and may 
be sown in drills, in small quantities, throughout the Summer, 
until the latter end of August, when all the varieties may be 
sown in regular succession until the first of October. Market 
gardeners may prepare the ground with a plough, and 
cover such seed as may be sown broadcast with a harroAv. 

For early Spring crops the seed may be sown at the rate 
of from twelve to fourteen pounds to the acre, broadcast ; 
and about half the quantity may be sufficient, in drills drawn 
a foot apart. Of the large late kinds, five pounds to the 
acre will be enough, if sown regularly in drills as directed. 

It may be necessary here to remind the gardener of the 
necessity of sowing tobacco dust, soot or ashes, &c. over 
his seed beds, in hot dry weather, or he will find it difficult 
to raise Radishes in unpropitious seasons. — See article 
Turnip, also the General Remarks. 



ROCAMBOLE. 

Ail d'espagne. Allkim scorodoprasum. 

This and the Allium sativum^ or common Garlic, is raised 
in some gardens. Many people consider the Rocambole 

7* 



78 KHtJBAKB. 

to be of a milder and better flavor, but tlie bulbs arfe' 
not so large as those of the Garlic. 

The plants are very hardy, and will grow in almost every 
soil or situation. They may be propagated either by the 
roots or seeds ; the former ought to be separated and planted 
at the same time, and in the same manner as Shallots. 

If raised from seeds, they may be sown in drills, either 
shortly after the seeds are ripe, or in the succeeding Spring; 
they require only to be kept clear of weeds, and in the 
following Autumn may be taken up, the bulbs parted, and 
planted as before. 



RHUBARB. 

Rhubarbe- Rheum. 

Rhubarb is a genus of exotic plants, comprising seven 
species, of which the following are the principal : — 

1. Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb, a native of 
Thrace and Syria, has long been cultivated in British 
gardens for the footstalks of the leaves, which are frequently 
used in pies and tarts. 

2. Rheum undulatum is also cultivated for the same use. 

3. The Palmatum, or true Officinale Rhubarb, is a 
native of China and the East Indies, whence its culture has 
been introduced into Europe ; it produces a thick fleshy 
root, externally yellowish broAvn, but internally of a bright 
yellow colour, streaked wdth red veins. It grows to great 
perfection in Scotland, as far north as Perthshire, (lat 56,) 
also in England, Turkey, and variousother parts of Europe. 
When the importance of this root as a medicine is consi- 
dered, it is a matter of astonishment that it has not been 
more generally introduced into the United States. 

The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagated by 
offsets taken from the roots early in the Spring, or from seed 
sown late in Autumn, or in March and tlie early part of April. 
The indispensable points to the production of good roots of 
the Palmatum, are depth and richness of soil, which should 
be well pulverized before the plants are set out. Prepare 



RHUBARB. 79^ 

beds of fine mould eighteen inches deep ; in these put in the 
plants from the seed bed, ten or twelve inches apart; this 
must be done when they have attained the height of four or 
five inches, and have thrown out as many leaves. 

The first season is the most critical, and much care is 
necessary. If the weather be hot, the nursery must be 
shaded, and at all events continually watered ; for water, 
though hurtful to old plants, is now of the first consequence. 
Wet weather is the most proper tune to plant in. The beds 
must be kept free from weeds during tiie Summer, and on 
the approach of severe weather, covered up with light litter. 
The early part of the Spring this must be taken ofi", and in 
the beginning of April the plants must be transplanted into 
ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus. 

Those who cultivate the Pahnatum for the sake of the 
roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and 
place the plants three feet apart every way. As to the other 
varieties, it is not so particular, if the plants have room to 
grow. In the early part of November, the leaves being then 
decayed, the beds should be covered with dry litter ; before 
this is done, a little earth should be drawn round the crowns 
of the plants. If there be any danger of water lodging, 
make trenches to carry it off". In the month of March, the 
beds [should be stripped of their covering, and the ground 
well hoed and cleared of weeds. 

The roots of Palmatum must not be taken up, until six or 
seven years old. The stalks of the other kinds may be cat 
every Spring, as soon as the leaves are expanded. 

If Rhubarb stalks be required for use early in the Spring, 
they may be obtained by placing flour barrels or deep tubs 
over some of the plants, and covering them up with fresh 
stable dung, or by any of the methods pointed out in the 
article under the head of Forcing Vegetables. 

The stalks of this plant are used for pies and tarts. After 
being stripped of the skin, or outer covering* and divested of 
its small fibres, or stringiness, which it is liable to, in an 
advanced stage of growth, it should be cut transversely into 
very small pieces, and then parboiled with sugar, and such 
spices as may best suit the palate. It will keep this way the 



80 SALSlFlr. 

same as other preserves, and may be used not only in pi^e 
and tarts, but it makes excellent pudding, by flattening a 
suety crust with a rolling pin, then spreading on the fruit, 
rolling it up in an oval shape, and boiling it in a cloth. The 
fruit this way will retain its virtues, and the pudding may be 
served up hot, in slices of from half an inch to an inch thick, 
and spreading butter and sugar between the layers. 

Some boil the stalks to a juice, which being strained 
through a colander will keep for years, if well spiced and 
seasoned with suiiar. 

In England, large drying houses have been erected for the 
purpose of curing the roqts of the Palmatum ; but this busi- 
ness may be done in this country as it is done in China I by 
the heat of the sun. After the roots have been well washed, 
and the small fibres cut off, they are then cut transversely 
iuto pieces of about two inches thick, and dried on boards, 
turning them several times a day, in order to prevent the 
escape of the yellow juice, on which its medicinal qualities 
depend. In four or five days, they may be strung upon 
strings, and suspended in a shady, but airy and dry situa- 
tion, and in two mouths afterwards they will be fit for the 
market. 



SALSIFY. 

Salsifis ou Cercifis. Tragopogon porrifolius. 

This plant grows spontaneously in the open fields of 
England, and is by some highly valued for its white eatable 
root, and for the young shoots rising in the Spring from 
plants a year old ; these when gathered while green and 
tender, are good to boil and eat in the manner of Asparagus. 
Some have carried their fondness for this plant so far as to 
call it Vegetable Oyster. It requires the same kind of soil 
and management as Carrots and Parsnips. 

The seed may be sown the latter end of March, or early 
in April, an inch deep, in drills twelve inches apart. AVhen 
the plants are two or three inches high, they should be 
thinned to the distance of six inches from each other, and 



SCORZONETRA. 81 

afterwards hoed. The ground should be kept clean and 
loose round the plants, by repeated hoeings ; and in the 
Autumn they will be fit for use. The roots may be taken up 
late in Autumn, and secured in moist sand from the air ; or 
be suffered to remain out, and dug up when wanted. 

As the seeds of Salsify do not all ripen equally alike, they 
should be sown moderately thick. To insure a regular 
crop, five or six pounds should be allowed for an acre of 
ground, or two ounces for every three perches. 

The mode of cooking recommended by an American 
author is, "to cut the roots transversely into thin pieces; 
boil them in water, or milk and water ; when boiled soft, 
mash them, and thicken the whole with flour to some degree 
of stiff'ness ; then fry them in the fat of salt pork, or butter ; 
they are a luxury." 

In England the tops are considered excellent food when 
boiled tender, and served up with poached eggs and melted 
butter. They are by some considered salutary for persons 
inclined to consumption. Those afflicted with any symp- 
toms indicating an approach to such a state of health, can- 
not harm themselves by eating the tops, when they are to 
be got, which is in the month of April, and if the roots are 
eaten when attainable, they may, perhaps, answer a still 
better purpose, and even the liquor in which they are boiled 
may possess some of the most valuable properties of the 
plant. 



SCORZONERA. 

ScoRsoNERE. ScoTzoTiera Hispanica, 

This plant has long been raised in British gardens, for 
culinary purposes, and especially as an ingredient in soups, 
on account of its palatable and nourishing roots. Some boil 
and eat them like Carrots, &c.; in which case they should be 
deprived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for half 
an hour, or they will be bitter. They are raised precisely 
in the same manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown in 



82 



SEA-KALE. 



April, in a good deep soil, the roots will attain perfection in 
Autumn, and continue good all the Winter. They last from ' 
three to four years, according to the quality of the earth and 
care bestowed on them ; but it is better to raise a few from 
seed every year. 



SEA-KALE. 

Chou MARIN. Crambe maritima. 

This plant is found on the sea-shore, in the southern parts 
of England, where it grows spontaneously. As soon as it 
appears above ground, the inhabitants remove the pebbles or 
sand, with which it is usually covered, to the depth of several 
inches, and cut off the young and tender leaves and stalks, 
as yet unexpanded and in a blanched state, close to the 
ci'own of the root ; it is then in its greatest perfection. 
When the leaves are full grown, they become hard and 
bitter, and the plant is not eatable. 

It is cultivated in private gardens, and for sale in various 
parts of England. Cultivators have differed widely res- 
pecting the mode of treating this plant; many conceiving 
that stones, gravel and sea sand, are essential to its growth, 
have gone to the expense of providing them ; but it has 
been discovered that it will grow much more luxuriantly in 
a rich sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great 
depth. 

The seed of Sea-Kale may be sown in October, or as 
early in the Spring as the ground can be brought into good 
condition, in drills an inch and a half deep, and fourteen or 
sixteen inches asunder ; the plants should be afterwards 
thinned out to the distance of six or eight inches from each 
other in the rows, and kept clear of weeds by frequent hoe- 
ings through the Summer. When the plants are a year old, 
every third row may be taken up, and also every other plant 
in each row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches apart; 
these may be transplanted into good ground prepared as 
directed for Asparagus. Plant two rows in each bed, about 
eighteen inches apart ; the best way is to make two drills 



SEA-KALE, S-3 

three inches deep, and with a dibble set in the plants fifteen 
or sixteen inches from each other ; \Then these drills are 
filled, the crowns of the plants will be covered nearly two 
inches, but they will soon push through the earth. The 
plants left in the seed bed may form a permanent bed, which 
should be forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this 
beino- done, lay on an inch or two of good rotten manure, 
and incorporate it with the earth around the plants. 

Some make new plantations with pieces of old roots, 
which should be cut up in lengths of about two inches, and 
planted in March or Aprils three or four inches deep, at the 
distance before directed for the plants. 

At the approach of Winter, the leaves will die away, and 
disappear. The beds should be then thickly covered with 
dung, leaves, or sea weed 5 this will not only protect the 
plants from frost, but will cause them to shoot up early in 
the Spring. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this 
may be taken off, or if well rotted, it may be mixed up with 
the earth; the crowns of the plants should then be covered 
to the depth often or twelve inches for blanching. 

Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand; some common 
sand and gravel ; and others with large garden pots, inverted 
and placed immediately over the plants. If these pots be 
covered up with fresh horse dung, it will forward the shoots 
in growth, and make them sweeter and more tender. 

When your plants have been covered in either method 
three or four weeks, examine them, and if you find that the 
stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin 
cutting ; should you wait till all the shoots are of considera- 
ble length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in 
this plant there is not that successive growth which there is 
in Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you see the 
heads of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time yoit 
uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which 
Broccoli is usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it 
an excellent substitute ; and this greatly enhances tlie 
value of the plant; as Broccoli does not stand our Winter 
frosts, and can only be had when carefully protected, as 
recommended under that head ; but this plant is sufficiently 



84 SKIRRET, 

hardy to bear our Winter frost, without much injury. You 
are not to weaken the roots too raudi by over-cutting, for in 
that case it would injure their next year's bearing : some of 
the shoots should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper 
vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care 
should be taken in cutting, not to injure the crowns of the 
roots by cutting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale 
should be dressed soon after it is cut, as the goodness of the 
article greatly depends on its not being longexposed to the air. 

If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all round a 
small bed, about three feet wide, and thirty iliches deep ; 
fill it with hot dung, and as it sinks, raise it. This will 
make the plants grow ; and if hand lights are set over them, 
it will accelerate their growth. 

To have this rare vegetable in perfection, it should be 
cooked as soon as gathered. Let it be first soaked in water, 
seasoned with salt, for half an hour ; then wash it in fresh 
water, and put it into the cooking utensil ; keep it boiling 
briskly, skim clean, and let oft' steam. When the stalks are 
tender, which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty-five 
minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, and 
serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such condiments 
as may be most agreeable to the palate. 



SKIRRET. 

Chervis, ou Gvrole. Slum sisarum. 

This plant is first cultivated by seed, and afterwards by 
offsets taken from the old roots, and planted very early in 
the Spring, and before they begin to shoot ; but it is best to 
raise a small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow 
longer than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be 
sticky. The seed may be sown in drills the latter part of 
March, or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify, 
Parsnips, «fec. In Autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, 
the roots are fit to use, and continue so till they begin to 
shoot in the Spring. 



SHAlLOT. 85 

Skirrets should Ije planted in a light, moist soil, for in dry 
land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves 
wet. 

The root of the Skirret is composed of several fleshy 
tubers as large as a man's finger, and joined together at the 
top. Tiiey are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper 
and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold, with oil 
and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the 
taste and flavor of a Parsnip, and are by some considered a 
great deal more palatable. 



SHALLOT. 

EcHALOTE. Allium ascalonicuTti. 

The true Shallot, is a native of Palestine, and is considered 
to possess the most agreeable flavor of any of the Allium 
genus ; it is consequently highly deserving of cultivation. 

It is propagated by plantmg bulbs, or oftsets, in the fall 
of the year, which may bs set out with a dibble, in rows 
twelve inclies apart, by four or six inches distance in thtj 
rows ; or they may be placed in drills, two or three inclics 
deep, and covered up with a trowel or hoe. 

The gardeners about New- York plant large quantities of 
the bulbs towards the end ot August, and early in Septem- 
ber ; by this means they are enabled to supply the market 
in April and May with a mild Allium, which while green 
meets a ready sale. 

Those intended for seed may remain in the ground until 
June or July, after the tops die down, the bulbs must be 
taken up, and the offsets divided : these should be kept in 
a dry place to plant the ensuing Autumn. 

It will require at least four bushels of bulbs, if measured 
when first taken from the ground, to plant a quarter of an 
a<cre ; because after they are trimmed and deprived of their 
seed stalks, the bulk will be reduced one half. • 



8 



86 
SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 

Efinard. Spinacia. 

VARIETIES. 

Large Round-leaved. I Holland or Lamb's Quar^r- 

Broad-loaved Savoy. | New Zealand. 

The Spinacia oleracea, or common Spinach, is very 
liardy, and consequently a very important vegetable for cold 
climates. It merits attention, from its being extremely 
wholesome and palatable, and from its keeping green even 
after having been cooked. It makes a delicious dish when 
served up with the gravy of roast meat, melted butter, &c. 

As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised to 
advantage the latter end of the year, the gardener should 
prepare such ground as may have been occupied by Summer 
crops, towards the end of August, and by having it wel' 
manured for tliis crop, it will be in good condition for Beets, 
Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &.c., the Spring follovv'ng. 

If the ground be got ready, so as to hyve several beds 
sown in succession, from the first to the end of September, 
the forwardest of these, if covered up with straw at the 
approach of cold weather, will furnish greens for the table 
when other vegetables are scarce, and the latter crops will 
recover the effects of a hard Winter, and produce a whole* 
some vegetable early in the Spring. 

If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and 
April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut before the 
approach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. To raise 
it in perfection at this season, it should be sown in drills 
about a foot apart, and kept cultivated by frequent hoeing; 
this will keep it in a growing state, and consequently pre- 
vent its running up to seed so quick as it otherwise would. 

It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground ; 
let the ground be well manured with good stnmg dung, and 
it will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant 
produce. 

If Spinach be cultivated in drills a foot apart, it will 
requre from seven to eight pounds of seed to plant an acre 



SQUASH. 87 

of ground. Some gardeners use more than double that 
quantity in sowing broadcast. 

Be careful to pick Spinach exceedingly clean, and wash 
it in five or six waters previous to cooking it. Some cook 
Spinach in a steamer over boiling water, others boil it in 
water; but the best way is to put it into a saucepan tkat 
will just hold it, without water, then strew a little salt upon 
it, and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear quick 
fire ; and when you find the Spinach shrunk and fallen to 
the bottom, and the juice which comes from it boil up, it is 
done. In order that it be rendered capable of absorbing a 
moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, &.c. which are 
indispensable with green vegetHbles, let it be well drained 
in a sieve, or colander, before it is dished. 

The New Zealand Spinach or Tetragona expansa, is of 
late introduction into this country ; its nature seems to be 
opposite to the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat 
better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer, 
by planting the seeds in April and May. Being of luxuriant 
growth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and 
about two seeds in a hill. The leaves will be fit for use 
during the Summer, and until late in the Autumn. 



SQUASH. 

GouKOE GiRAUMON ou PoTiKON. Cucurhita melopepa. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Bash Squash. 
Early Crookneck, 
Large Cushaw. 



Vegetable Marrow. 
Winter Crookneck. 
Lima Cocoanut. 



The several varieties of Squashes are very useful in this 
and other warm climates, as they can be grown in perfection 
in the Summer, and therefore prove a good substitute for 
Turnips, which cannot be raised in perfection in hot wea- 
ther. They should be planted in hills, prepared in the same 
manner as for Cucumbers and Melons, and their subsequent 
management is the same in every respect. The bush kinds 



88 TOMATO. 

should be planted three or four feet apart, and the running' 
kinds from six to nine, according to their nature, as some 
will run more than others. It is always best to plant five or 
six seeds in a hill, to guard against accidents ; as when the 
plants are past danger, they can be thinned to two or three 
in a hill. One ounce of Squash Seed will plant from fifty 
to one hundred hills, according to the sorts and sizeof ihe 
seed. 

The fruit of the Early Summer Squashes is generally 
gathered for use before the skin gets hard, and while it is so 
tciider as to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb 
nail. The Winter Squashes should be suffered to ripen, and 
collected together in October, in the manner recommended 
in the calendar for that month. 

All kinds of Squashes should, after having been boiled 
tender be pressed as close as possible between two wooden 
trenchers, or by means of a slice or skimmer, made of the 
same materials^ until dry, and then prepared for the table 
in the same manner as Turnips. 



TOMATO. 

ToMATE, ou PoMME d'amour. SoluTium hjcopersicum. 

VARIETIES. 

Large Squash-shaped. | Cherry-shaped. 

The Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated for it* 
fruit, in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable 
acid flavour ; it is also stewed and dressed in various ways, 
and is considered very wholesome. 

Tl;e seed should be sown early in March, in a slight hot- 
bed, and the plants set out in the open ground, if settled 
warm weather, in the early part of May. Tn private gar- 
dens it will be necessary to plant them hear a fence, or to, 
provide trellises for them to be trained to, in the manner 
recommended for Nasturtiums ; they will, however, do 
very well, if planted out four feet distant from ea,cb other 
€iyery way. 



TOMATOE. 89 

Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the sum- 
mer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the first week 
in May ; these plants will be fit to transplant early in June, 
and the fruit may ripen in time for preserves or Catsup. 

One ounce of good Tomato Seed will produce upwards 
of four thousand plants ; and a single plant has been known 
to yield upwards of a bushel of fruit. 

Tomatoes may be preserved in a stone or glazed earthen 
pot, for use in the Winter, by covering them with water in 
which a sufiicient quantity of salt has been dissolved to 
make it strong enough to bear an egg. Select perfectly 
ripe berries, and cover the pot with a plate in such a man< 
ner that it presses upon the fruit without bruising it. — Pre- 
vious to cooking these Tomatoes, they should be soaked in 
fresh water for several hours. 

Besides the various modes of preparing this delicious 
vegetable for the table, it may be preserved in sugar, and 
used either as a dessert, or on the tea-table, as a substitute 
for Peaches or other sweetmeats. It also makes exquisite 
pies and tarts, and excellent catsup. 

A celebrated writer obsenres, that '* the common Tomatoe 
made into a gravy, by stewing over the fire, and used as a 
sauce for meat, has been known to quicken the action of 
the liver and of the bowels, better than any medicine he 
ever made use of." He states further, that — " When 
afflicted with inaction of the bowels, head-ache, a bad taste 
of the mouth, straitness of the chest, and a dull and painful 
heaviness of the region of the liver, the whole of these 
symptoms are removed by Tomatoe sauce, and the mind, 
in the cosn-se of some few hours,, is put in perfect tune." 

To make them into catsup, use one pint of salt to one 
peck of Tomatoes ; bruise them, and let them stand two 
days ; then strain them dry, and boil the juice until the 
scum stops rising, with two ounces of black pepper, the 
same quantity of pimento or allspice, one ounce of ginger, 
one of cloves, and half an ounce of maee. 



90 



TURNIP. 

Navet. Bvassica rapa. 



VATIIETIES. 



F.iiily fiiirilcn Rtono. 
Kfirly Wliilt! Diilcli. 
Svvim'H V.fi'^- 
(''.ally l{(^<l Tup. 
Htrn|) l,r:n('(l Kcd 'I'op 
Miiily (irci^u 'To]), 
Yollow Sloiii'. 
Long Yellow Fioiicli. 



1 ° 



I-ar/,'o KiikIih'i Norfolk-. 

Lon<; 'I'inikiird, or Haiiuvur. 

WliilC! I''l;il, or (;iol)e. 

Ijtr{,'(^ Mullock. 

Yf^llow Allriny;liam. 

Dalc'n yi^llovv Hybrid. 

Yellow AI)i'i(l(M^ii. 

lliiKsia, Swcdisli, or lliita Hnj^a. 



Tins is a wliolcisoino and useful jjlaiit, holh for man and' 
boast, and lii<fldy dcsf'rviii'jj of cidtivalioii. Its l)(;iii<r the 
last esculent voifotid)l(! on our c.alalo^ruo, that is raised from 
seju). sold at our several seed stores, I siiall endeavour to 
stimulate! those of our y(M)nianrv ulio hav(! hitherto neg- 
lected tli(! culture of this iield as well asfrard(!n production, 
to e.vertion and diJio(!nce, by inserting a few extracts from 
a ))ui)(!r that now lies before me. 

" Culture of Turnips. — Until tlio beginning of the eigh- 
teenth century, this valuable root was cultivated only in 
gardens, or other small s|)ots, for cidiiuiry purposes ; but 
Lord Towns.end, who attended King George the First in 
one of his excursions to Germany, in the quality of Secre- 
tary of State, o!)S(>rved. the "^rurnip ci^ltivated in open and 
extensive fields, as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility 
over lands naturally barrel), on his return to England, 
brought over some of the seed, and stroiigly recommended 
the practice whieh he had witnessed, to the adoption of his 
own tenants, who occupied a soil similar to that of Hanover. 
The experiment succeeded; the cultivation of Field Tur- 
nips gradually spread over the whole county of Norfolk, 
and has n\m\c its vv:\^v into every other district of lilnglarid. 
The reputation of the county as nn agricultural district, 
dates from tiie vast improvements of heaths, wastes, sheep 
walks, and warrens, by enclosing and manuring ; the fruits 
of the z(!alous e.vertioiis of Lord Tovvnsend, and a (qw 
neighbouring laiul owners, which were, ere long, imitated 
\^ olUers. Since these improvements were clleuted, rento. 



TDBXIP. i*l 

have risen in that county from one or two shillings to twenty 
■hillings an acre ; a county consisting chiefly of sheep walUs 
and rabbit warrens, has been renck-red highly productive ; 
and, by dint of management, what was thus gained has been 
preserved and improved to the prcft'Mit morruMit. Some of 
the finest grain crops in the world are now growing up<jn 
land, which, before the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, 
produced a very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and 
half-starved rabbits. 

'* Mr. Colquhoun, in his ' Statistical Researches,' estima- 
ted the value of the Turnip crop annually growing in tl>e 
United Kingdom of Great Jjritaiu and Ireland, at fourteen 
rniliion pounds sterling, (equal lo upwards of sixTir milmoxs 
OFDOLLABS.) But whsu We further recollect, that it enable* 
the agriculturist to reclaint and cultivate land, whicli with- 
out its aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural 
barrenness, that it leaves the land ck-an and in fine condition, 
and also to insure a good crop of B irley, and a kind plant 
of Clover; and that this Clover is found a most excellent 
preparative for \Vhe:it, it will appear that the subsequent 
advantages derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely 
exceed its estimated value as fodder for cattle." fSir Wil- 
liam Scott in the Quaterly Review.) As I have undertaken 
to •♦ assist the Young Gardener," I shall proceed to point 
out the most proper means of cultivating this-truly valuabk 
Tegetable in his garden. 

The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may 
be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other 
things of equal value. It mu?t however be granted, that 
some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better 
than others, and that iu general, exotic plants will succeed 
best in f-uch soiU as are nearest like their own native soil. 
As we have not always a choice,! would inform the Young 
Gardener, if he has a very light soil which Is not suitable 
for vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops 
of Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the first 
crop early in March, and that for his second in the middle 
of August. For general crops, it will be better to ha?* 
ground manured with short rotten dung, or compost coo-. 



92 TURNIP. 

taining a considerable proportion of coal, wood, peat, or 
soaper's ashes. Ground that has been well manured for 
preceding crops, and also ground fresh broken up, will suit 
well for Turnips. 

Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should 
procure a suitable quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so 
as to be prepared for the attacks of insects. It should be 
recollected that Turnip seed will sometimes sprout within 
forty-eight hours after it is sown, and that very frequently 
whole crops are devoured before a plant is seen above 
ground. A peck of either of these ingredients, mixed with 
about an equal quantity of ashes, or even dry road dust, 
sown morning and evening for the first week after sowing 
the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided it be a> 
contrived that the wind carry it over the whole piece of 
land, and as it often changes, this may be effected by cross- 
ing the land in a different direction every time according as- 
the wind may serve. 

As some very erroneous ideas have been extensively cir- 
culated in respectable periodicals, respecting the cultivation 
of this valuable root, I would earnestly recommend that 
particular attention be paid to the time of sowing the seed,, 
for if the first crop be not sown soon enough to be gatherecJ 
early in July, they are seldom fit for the table, being hot, 
stringy, and wormy ; and if the crop intended for Autumn 
and Winter use be sown long before August, unless it be a 
very favourable season, if even they escape the attacks of 
insects and reptiles,, they often get so defective,, that they 
seldom keep the >Vinter. 

To have Turnips in perfection, they should be hoed in 
about a month after they are sown, or by the time the plants, 
spread a circle of about four inches, and again, in about a 
month from the first hoeing, leaving them from six to nirke 
inches apart, they will yield the cultivator more profit this 
way, than when left to nature, as is too frequently done. 

It is generally admitted that one pound of Turnip seed is 
amply suflicient for an acre of ground, yet some will use 
conaderably more, because of the diflScuhy of distributing so 
small a quantity of seed regularly broadcast. This difficulty 



TURNIP. 98 

is however obviated by sowing the seed in drills, aixd 
although it may seem a tedious process to those who have 
no other means of doing it than by hand, the facilities 
afforded of hoeing between the rows, more than compen- 
sates for the extra labour. 

I once induced a friend of mine to sow four ounces of 
Turnip seed, in drills a foot apart, by which means he made 
it extend over upwards of half an acre of land ; and by hoe- 
ing the plants twice, he had the gratification of pulling four 
hundred bushels of handsome Turnips, which is more than 
is generally taken from an acre of land cultivated in the 
ordinary way. 

The most esteemed kinds of Turnips for gardens, are 
marked in the catalogue, I shall therefore leave my reader* 
to their own choice. 

As the Yellow Swedish, or Russian Turnip, or Ruta, 
Baga, is in great repute, I shall quote a few lines from the 
" American Gardener," by William Cobbeit, the great advo- 
cate for Ruta Baga. 

" The Swedish Turnip, so generally preferred for table 
Mse here, and so seldom used for the table in England, ought 
to be sown early in June, in rows a foot apart, and thinned 
to three inches in the rows. About the middle of July they 
should be transplanted upon ridges three feet apart, (in a 
garden,) and during their growth, ought to be kept clear of 
weeds, and to be dug between, twice at least, as deep as a 
good spade can be made to go ; but the Swedish Turnip is 
of further use as producing the most excellent greens in the 
Spring,^ and at a very early season. To draw this benefit 
from them, the best way is to leave a row or two in the 
ground, and when the Winter is about to set in, cover them 
all over with straw, or cedar boughs. Take these off when 
the Winter breaks up, and you will h^ve very early and 
most excellent greens ; and when you have done with the 
greens, the Turnips are very good to eat." 

If seeds of the Russia Turnip be sown in drills, about 
the middle of July, or even early in August, they will make 
fine roots by Autumn, without transplanting, provided the 
ground be good, and well worked. Wh^n the plants a.r^ 



(0*4 AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. 

up Strong, tliey must be hoed and thinned to the distance of 
twelve or fifteen inches from each other ; another hoeing 
will be necessary in five or six weeks afterwards. This 
will make them grow freely. 

The Turnip is a favourite vegetable with some, and in 
England, a leg of mutton and caper sauce is considered ty 
epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To 
have them in perfection, they should, after having been de- 
prived of their rind, be equalized by cutting the largest trans- 
yersely in the centre, and then after being boiled tender, let 
them be taken up, and pressed as dry as possible ; at the 
same time, let a lump of butter and a due portion of Cayenne 
pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up with the Tur- 
nips until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from the 
meat unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most 
esteemed. 



AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. 

Graines d'Herbes Aromatiques, odoriferamtes et 

A l'usage de la cujsine. 

Angelica Garden, Angelica atropurptirea. 

Anise, Pimpinella anisum. 

Basil Sweet, Ocymum basilicum. 

Borage, Borago officinalis. 

Burnet Garden, Poturium sanguisorba. 

Caraway, Carum carui. 

Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, Scandix odorata cerefolivm^ 

Clary, Salvia sclara. 

Coriander Coriandrum sativum. 

j)jll Anethum graveolens. 

* Fennel, Common, do. faniculum. 

* do. Sweet, do. duke. 
Marigold, Pot, Calendula officinalis. 

* Marjoram, Sweet, Origanum marjorana. 

♦ Mint, f^pear, Mentha viridcs. 

* do. Pepper, do. piperita. 

• do. Pennyroyal, do. pidegium. 

* Sage, Common, Salvia officinalis. 

♦ Sa"e Red '^"^ clandestinoide$. 
Savory, Summer, Satureja hortensis. 

» do. Wipter, '^o< montana. 



MEDICINAL HERSS. 95 

* Tarragon, Artemisia dractincidus. 

* Thyme, Common, Thymus vulgaris. 

* do. Lemon, do. serpyllum. 

Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odbur 
and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs, 
and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As 
only a small quantity of these are necessary in private gar- 
dens, a bye corner may be allotted for them, and such medi- 
cal herbs as maybe wanted in a family. 

It may be necessary for me to explain, as we go along, 
that there are three principal descriptive names given to 
plants, namely. Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The 
Annuals being but of one season's duration, are raised every 
year from seed. The Biennials are raised from seed one year, 
continue till the second, then perfect their seed, and soon 
after die ; some of these should be also raised every year 
from seed. The Perennials may be also raised from seed, 
but when once raised, they will continue on the same roots 
many years. Those marked * are of the latter description* 
and may be propagated by suckers, offsets, cuttings, or 
partings, of the roots. Those who have not already a 
plantation of these herbs, may sow seeds of any of the 
diiFerent kinds in March or April, in drills about an inch 
deep, and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The 
plants may be afterwards transplanted into separate beds ; 
or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two feet apart, the seed 
may be sown in them, and the plants afterwards thinned out 
to proper distances, according to the natural growth of the 
different kinds of plants. 



PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL AND 
OTHER PURPOSES. 

Graines de Plantes Medicinal. 

Bene, Sesamum orientale. 

Boneset, or Thoroughwort) Eupatorium perfoliatum. 

* Balm, Melissa officinalis. 

Bean, Castor Oil, Recinua communisi 



96 



MEDICINAL BERBg. 



Burdock, 

Catnep, 

Celandine, 

* Chamomile, 

* Comfrey, 

* Elecampane, 
Feverfew, 

* Horehound, 

* Horsemint, 

* Hyssop, 

* Lavender, 
Lovage, 

* Mallow, Marsh, 

* Motherwort, 

* Patience Dock, 

* Pinkroot, Carolina, 
Poppy Opium, ("annual,) 

* Rosemary, 

* Rue, Garden, 
Saffron, Bastard, 
ScuUcap, or Mad Dog Plant, 
Snakeroot, Virginian. 

* Sorrel, 

* Southernwood, 

* Speedwell, Virginian, 

* Spikenard, 

* Tansy, 

* Wormwood, 



Arclium lappa. 
Nepeta cataria. 
Chelidonum majus. 
Anthe7nis nobilis- 
Spmphytum officinale. 
Inula Iielenium. 
Chrysanthemum partlienium, 
Marubiam vidgare. 
Monarda punctata. 
Hy Scopus officinalis. 
L'ivendida Spica. 
Ligusticum levisticum, 
Althea officinalis. 
Lconurus cardiaca. 
Rumex patentia. 
Spigelia Marylandica. 
Papaver somniferum 

Rosmarinus officinalis. 

Ruta graveokns. 

Carthamiis tinclorius. 

Scutellaria lateriflora. 

Aristolochia serpcntaria. 

Rumcx acctosa, 

Artemisia abrotavum. 

Veronica Virginica. 

Aralia raccmosa. 

Tanacctum vidgare, 
■Artemisia absinthium. 



The generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinan)€rbs, 
may be raised from seed sown in March and April. The 
greater part of the above described plants are Perennial, and 
will multiply from seeds they drop, or from partings from 
the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants thus raised, 
should be planted at suitable distances from each other 
early in the Spring. 

The beds should be afterwards kept free from weeds, and 
as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry 
day, and spread in a shady place to dry for Winter use. The 
best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub 
them, so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in 
bottles or boxes, each kind separate ; they should be after* 
wards kept in a dry place. 



AROMATIC HERBS, &C. 97 

In the montli of October, the herb beds should be ex- 
uminecJ. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender plants, 
should be taken up, potted, and placed in a frame or green- 
house for the Winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory, 
Southernwood, Sage, Rue, and tlie like, will require their 
tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet, 
Tarragon, Tansey, Pennyroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, 
Horehoand, Mint, Lovage, and other kinds of hardy peren- 
nial herbs, should be cut down close to the ground. 

After this is done, it will be proper to dig lightly, and 
loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants; 
but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint, 
Running Thyme, and all other creeping herbs, will not well 
admit of digging; therefore, after the stalks are cut down, 
and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleys, and strew 
some of the loose earth evenly OA'er the beds ; and if the 
ground be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten 
dung will be of considerable service. 

This dressing will give proper nurfure and protection to 
the roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the garden, and 
in Spring the shoots will rise with renewed vigour. 

Having finished the catalogue, I proceed to give direc- 
tions f.)r making the most of a piece of ground well ma- 
nured for early crops. In the general directions at the com- 
mencement, I observed that good rich manure was indis- 
pensably necessary to the production of some particular 
kinds of vegetables ; it may be further observed, that rich 
ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it re- 
quires some attention to make useof it to the best advantage* 
If the gardener has lei<:ure to dig such ground in March or 
April, as he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Egg- 
plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Radishes, 
Spinach, Lettuce, or other small Salads on it, by leaving a 
space for his hills or drills ; or Radish seed may be sown 
lightly over the beds of Deets, Carrots, Parsnips, &c., but 
they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure 
the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it 
requires a little consideration before a second is planted, in 
order that a sufficient quantity of the best ground be 

9 



9S PXAN OP BEDS, &C. 

reserved for the most particular and valuable varieties of 
vegetables. 

That I may be understood, I have adopted the following 
plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same 
purpose as bringing my readers on the ground. 

No. 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart: 

March 25. — S ow Parsley, Onion, or other small seeds. 

Sow Radish seed. 

Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seeds. 



The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the inter- 
mediate ground for the other plants. 



No. 2. Drills ten inches apart ; 



April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. 



15. — Plant early Cabbage Plants. 



April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. 



By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground, 
the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered. 

If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle of 
July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnip, or Bkcfe 



PLAN OF BEDS, &C. 99 

Radish seed. If the Cabbage be of the late heading kinds, the 
ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach, 
Fetticus, Lettuce, &c. in which case it will require a fresh 
cbat of manure. 

No. 3. Drills 10 or 12 inches apart. 



March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings of Horse Radish. 



Plant Turnip-rooted Beet seed, (see page 59.) 



Plant slips or cuttings of Horse Radish. 



If required, a light crop of Radishes may be raised on 
this bed, which should be pulled while young. 

Hoe and thin out the Beets as they progress in growth, 
and when full grown, they may be gathered, without dis- 
turbing the Horse Radish. 

No. 4. — Rows, or drills, fourteen inches apart ; 



March 20.— Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. 



Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants. 



Hoe them the first week in April — previous to hoeing the 
second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and 
plant Beet or Carrot seed ; this may be covered up in 



100 PLAN OF BEDS, «fcc. 

toeing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong". 
the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended 
to, they may be cleared off soon enough to produce Fall 
Cabbage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Bkck Radishes, «fcc. 

No. 5. — Rows or drills, sixteen inches apart. 



BIarch25. — Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. 



Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants. 



April 20. — Plant Early York Cabbage Plnnts, either between the row* 
or between the Lettuce. 



As soon as the Lettuce is off", hoe the Cabbage, and it 
will soon cover the ground. 

This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the 
varieties above mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of 
which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted 
with Cabbage twice in succession. 

The above, or preceding plans, present a fair specimen 
of what may be done on a small piece of good ground. If 
the young gardener will take the trouble to keep an account 
of his transactions, he would soon make discoveries of stiii 
greater importance. If he be not sufficiently acquainted 
with the different varieties of Cabbage plants, for instance, 
so as to distinguish the one from the other, he, by making a 
memorandum at the time of sowing the seed, would soon get 
acquainted with the different varieties of plants ; he would 
also discover the difference in the growing of bis seeds, and 
know who to blame if any particular kind should not 
come up» 



HOT-BEDS. 10} 

The following represents a Hot-Bed with four sashes, sown March 1. 



Early Dwarf 

Early York 

or other Spring 

Cabbage Seed. 



Early Battersea 
Drumhead, or 
other Summer 

Cabbage Seed 



Early Lettlice 
Toraatoe Seed, 

Peppers, 

&c. in shallow 

drills. 



Egg-Plant 

Seed, &c. 

partitioned off 

as directed in 

note to article 

Egg-plant. 



It may be necessary to remind my readers of the necessity 
of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Lettuce, Toma- 
toe, and Egg-plant seeds in hot-beds the last week in 
February, or early in March ; for this purpose, let some 
fresh stable dung and rich compost be engaged beforehand- 
Some gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it 
is always safest to make them in pits from eighteen inches to 
two feet deep ;* in order to do this, the pits should be dug 
in Autumn, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the ground 
intended for the beds before the frost sets in, and good 
earth may be obtained from the pits without any difficulty. 

The frames should be made of good sound planks ; the 
back plank may be two feet wide, ^and the end ones may 
be so sloped as to make a fifteen inch plank do for the front. 
A frame calculated for four sashes of three feet in width by 
six in length, as above described, should be nearly thirteen 
feet long, and about six broad at the top. 

The frame being set over the pit, and properly fastened, 
the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pit to the 



♦When durable heat is required for forcing vegetables, the beds should 
be made on level ground, in order that linings may be appHed to the 
outside of the frame, which by frequent renewal, will enliven the heat of 
the bed, and thus bring tender vegetables to maturity, which would 
Wherwise sufter from a decUne of the heat. For particular directions, 
see Observations on Forcing Vegetables — also article on Forcing 
Asparagus. 



9* 



1(^ ON FORCING VEGETABLES. 

depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; if the dung be in u 
good heating condition, cover it with six or eight inches 
deep of mould, then lay on tlje sashes, and protect the beds 
from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days 
the rank steam may pass off; it will then be necessary to 
stir the mould before the seed be sown, to prevent the (growth 
of young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the 
seed eitlier in shallow drills or broadcast, as equally as pos- 
sible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to be 
sown or sifted over the seeds. The beds should be after- 
wards attended to, as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower. 
This description of a hot-bed is intended expressly for the 
raising of Spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such 
other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds 
made earlier in the season, or for forcing, will require a 
greater substance of manure. See calendar for January. 
February, and March. 



OBSERVATIONS 

ON 

FORCING VEGETABLES. 



Before I commenced preparing this work for ihe press, 
I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing 
fruits as well as vegetables ; but when I considered my 
motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I con- 
cluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect 
the greatest possible good at the smallest expense. Of the 
several branches of Horticulture, some are of greater im- 
portance than others ; and as the products of the kitchen 
garden form important articles of food for the bulk of man- 
kind, it should be our first care to treat largely on the sub- 
ject of this most useful part of gardening. Next to thia is 
the cultivation of fruits, and the production of ornamental 
plants and flowers, each of which will be noticed in the 
respective departments. 



ON FORCING VEGETABLES. 103 

As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on forcing, or 
ratlier forwarding vegetables by artificial means, I shall 
endeavour to confine my observations to such points as are 
of primary importance ; and in order to convince my 
readers of the importance of this subject, I shall first 
endeavour to show the utility of an artificial climate suited 
to the various species of useful p!ants. In England, a 
regular succession of vegetables can be obtained from the 
natural ground in every month of the year, and their fruits, 
from the Summer heat being moderate, are of longer con- 
tinuance than with us, and yet they make gardening a 
science, and employ the elements, as well as the ingenuity 
of man, to the production offruits and vegetables out ofth& 
ordinary season. 

I shall not attempt to treat of the cultivation of Pine 
Apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown in forcing 
houses ; nor would it be advisable with us to undertake to 
raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c. in frames throughout the 
severe Winters of our Northern States, but it must be 
acknowledged, that the extreme heat of our Summers is as 
detrimental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable 
kinds of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our Win- 
ters, and for those reasons, artificial aid is more necessary 
here in the Winter and Spring of the year than in England. 
The inhabitants of that country may obtain a supply of the 
different varieties of Artichokes, Broad Beans, Borecole, 
Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, 
Spinach, Turnips, and Salads in general, a great part of 
the year, from their kitchen gardens, whereas, if we were to 
attempt to supply our markets with culinary vegetables at 
all times, in any thing like the abundance that they have 
them there, we must, out of the ordinary season for garden- 
ing operations, turn our attention to the protecting and for- 
warding as well as the forcing system. 

Before I proceed to show the method of forcing vegeta- 
bles, it may be necessary for me to remind my readers, that 
in providing an artificial climate, they should consider the 
nature of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour 
to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish 



104 ON FORCING VEGETABLES. 

and support them. I have, in another part of this work, 
endeavoured to show, that heat, liglit, air and moisture, are 
each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup- 
plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances. 

In the midst of our Northern Winters, which is the usual 
time for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west 
winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have 
not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, it will not 
be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom hent under anj 
kind of vegetable, until such times as he can impart a 
tolerable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air 
will soon destroy the fruits of his labour. 

Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing in frames, 
is soon after the middle of February, and the early part of 
March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials 
must be regulated by the season of the year at which tlie 
work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which tlie 
hot-beda are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising 
half hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in 
the Spring, may be made in the manner recommended for 
the common hot-bed; but if substantial heat is required to be 
kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings 
as the heat decreases; and the dung should undergo a 
regular process of preparation, according to the use it is 
intended for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in 
order to furnish suitable mould to the different species of 
plants; for this purpose, all the old hot-bed dung and 
mould, leaves, tan, turf, sand, and other light manures and 
decayed animal dung, should be collected together. 

In some cases when a slight hot-bed is recommended for 
forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling 
Cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer every purpose for 
Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants ; or such a bed 
may be spawned for Mushroons, if required. 

If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of the 
Winter is past, great precaution must be used lest the plants 
should be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed by 
heat for want of air. To prevent the former accident, 
warm dung should be placed around the frames, and xkc 



FORCING ASPARAGUS. 105 

sdshes should be covered willi mats and boards every night. 
If full air cannot be admitted in the day time, the sasiies 
must be slidden down to let off the steam, at the same time 
mats may be laid over the aperture, to prevent cold air 
entering to the plants. 

If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is some- 
times the case, means must be used to decrease it. This is 
generally eff;:cted by making holes in tlie bed with a stake 
sharpened at the end, or Avith a crow-bar ; which holes 
should be filled up when the heat is sufficiently reduced. 
In lining hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the 
beds, holes may be carefully made to admit heat from th« 
fresh linings, so as to enliven the heat of the bed. 

A Fahrenheit Thermometer should be always at hand, 
at the time of forcing, to be used when necessary, to regu- 
late the heat in the beds; and the water that is used in 
cultivating plants in frames, should be warmed to the tem- 
perature of the air, or according to the heat required for the 
various kinds of plants, which will be shown in the annexed 
articles. 



FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-BEDS. 

As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme 
bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less 
trouble, in flued pits in a hot-house, than in dung hot-beds, 
because the heat from tan is more regular ; but a very suit- 
able bed may be f<»rmed in a deep hot-bed frame, made in 
the usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and 
leaves be used, it should be in a state past heating violently 
before it is made into a bed ; but if the gardener has no 
choice of materials, he may make his hot-bed in the usual 
way, and if the depth of heating materials be two feet, he 
may lay on a fo.)t of old hot-bed dung, tan or any light 
compost, that will admit of the heat passing through it. 

It may be necessary to state further, that though too much 
bottom heat should be avoided, heat is necessary to the 
production of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is 
generally effected in a month or six weeks after the con\» 



1Q6 FORCING ASPARAGUS. 

ipencetuent of the operations. For the purpose of keeping 
up a regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied 
around the frame, and changed as occasion requires. 

Provide plants from two to four, or even six years old, 
trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds ; when 
one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then 
proceed in the same way with one row after another, keep- 
ing them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first lay, 
till you have finished planting them ; then lay among the 
buds and roots some fine vegetable, or other rich mould, 
working it in amongst them with your fingers, and cover the 
beds over about an inch thick, and above that lay three 
inches in depth of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan, 
or any other light compost, that will admit the water to run 
quickly through. 

If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down the 
sashes till it begins to decline. The temperature at night 
should never be under SO"* and it may rise to 65° without 
injury ; when the buds begin to appear, as much air must 
be daily admitted as the weather will permit. In two or 
three days after the beds are planted, the heat will begin 
to rise : the beds should then have a moderate supply of 
water applied from a watering pot with the rose on ; repeat 
such watering every three or four days. 

When the buds are up three inches above the surface, 
they are fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven 
inches in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of 
the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, twist them off 
from the crown : this is a better method than to cut them ; 
at least it is less dangerous to the rising buds, which come 
up thick in succession. 

An ordinary sized frame calculated for three sashes will 
hold from three hundred to five hundrod plants, according to 
the age and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a 
dish every day for about three weeks. On the above esti- 
mate, if a constant succession of Asparagus be required, it 
will be necessary to plant a bed every eighteen or twenty 
days. 



FORWABDH^C BEA55. 107 

Rhubarb and Sea Kale may be, and sometimes are, 
forced in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the most 
general mode is to excite them where thev stand in the open 
garden, bj the application of warm dung. 



FORWARDING BROAD BEANS OR ENGLISH 
DWARFS. 

In the article, Broad Bean, ricia faba, I have already 
urged the necessity of early plantmg, in order that a full 
crop may be insured before the approach of warm weather ; 
but as the ground is often frozen at the time they ought to 
be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes, 
and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or earlv in 
March. If the plants thus raised be not nursed too tender, 
they may be transplanted into the open srround the latter 
end of March ; this will enable them to produce their fruit 
early in June. 

Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of 
ground late in Autumn, it will keep the earth from, freezing, 
and if this manure be remored in February, and a frame 
placed over and protected from extreme cold, the seedlinsrs 
may be raised therein, and transplaiited into the irarden 
as directed in page 31. 

Those who have not the convenience of hot-beds or 
frames, may, in the month of February, plant some of the 
seed about two inches deep in boxes kept in a cellar, or in 
earth on the floor, which will produce plants fit to transplant 
in the open garden towards the latter end of March cr earlv 
in April. 



FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. 

The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans mav be 
raised in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat to 
mature them. The temperature within the frames should 
be kept up to 60, and may rise to 70 or 75^, provided the 
Hteam is let off. In order to insure sufficient tieat to brins 



iOS FORWAKDING BKOCCOLt AND CAULIFLOWER. 

them into a bearing state, the plants may be first raised ill 
small pots plunged into a hot-bed, or a small bed may be 
prepared, earthed over with light rich compost, six inches 
deep, and the Beans planted therein, and covered one inch. 

The second hot-bed should be earthed over to the depth 
of eight or nine inches ; and the Beans transplanted as 
soon as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows 
twelve or fifteen inches apart, by three or four inches in 
the rows, or in clumps a foot apart. When the season 
is so far advanced that one bed, with the help of linings, 
will bring the plants well into fruit, the seed may be planted 
at once to remain for podding ; or if the gardener should 
choose to mature his crop in the open ground, he may raise 
his plants in boxes or pots in the month of April, and 
plant them out in a warm border early in May. 

Beans raised in hot-beds, will require considerable atten- 
tion ; — cover the glasses every night with mats and boards ; 
admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle 
waterings, and earth them up carefully as they progress in 
growth, to strengthen them. 



FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. 

In treating of the method of cultivating this family of 
plants, in the articles under each head, I recommended an 
artificial climate to be provided for them, so as to induce 
them to arrive at full perfection in the Winter and early part 
of the Spring. Such gardeners as may have provided 
frames for the purpose of making hot-beds in the Spring, 
may make use of them through the Winter, in protecting 
Broccoli and Cauliflower; and as the frames will not be 
wanted until the severity of the Winter is past, such plants 
as may be left at that season, may be protected by a cover- 
ing of boards, straw, or litter, as occasion may require. 

If Cauliflower be required early in the Summer, the 
plants raised in the preceding Autumn should be trans- 
planted from the beds into the open ground in the month of 
March, and be protected by hand glasses. This would 



FORCING CUCUMBERS. 109 

insure their heading before ihe approach of extreme wai'm 
weatlier, which is very injurious to Cauliflower. 



FORCING CUCUMBERS. 

To produce Cucumbers at an early season, sliould be ail 
object of emulation with every gardener. The business of 
forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks 
before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should 
be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short 
prickly, other, the Green Cluster and Southgate ; and 
seed that is two or three years old is generally preferred, as 
it is not so apt to run to vines. 

The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich 
mould, and placed in a hot-bed ; and some sow the seeds in 
the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In 
either case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their 
two seed leavbs, they may be transplanted into pots ; put 
three plants into each pot ; when this is done, apply water 
warmed to the heat of the bed, and shut down the glasses, 
keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over the 
glass, till the plants have taken root. When they are about 
a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruiting 
bed. 

Well preparing the dung, is of the greatest importance in 
forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is made 
into a bed, it cannot be done after, as it requires turning 
and managing to cause it to ferment freely and sweetly. 
Fresh dung from the stable should be laid into a heap, 
turned three times, and well mixed with a fork ; if any 
appears dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it 
between the two extremes of Wet and dry, that the whole 
may have a regular fermentation. 

A dry situation should be chosen for beds to be formed 
on, so that no water can settle under the dung. The sub- 
stance (>'' dung from the bottom of the bed should be from 
three to four feet, according to the season of planting, and 

10 



TIO rORCINtf CUCUMBERS. 

the moulding should be done as soon as the bed is settlerfi- 
and has a lively regular tempered heat. Lay the earth 
evenly over the dung, about six inches deep ; after it has 
lain a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning 
effect are discovered, by the mould turning of a whitish 
colour, and caking, it will be lit to receive the plants; but if 
the earth appears burnt, or of a rank smell, some fresh sweet 
ftiould should be provided for the hills, and placed in the 
frame to get warm, at the same time, vacancies should be 
made to give vent to the steam, by running down stakes. 

After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and 
the heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth 
formed into hills ; raise one hill in the centre under each 
sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of 
the glass ; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out 
such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their 
roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid- 
dle of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered 
M'ith water heated to the air of the bed, and kept shaded till 
they have taken root. 

The temperature should be kept up to 60"^, and may rise 
to 80*^ without injury, provided the rank steam be allowed 
to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely 
linings of well prepared dung must be applied all round 
the frame ; begin by lining the back part first ; cut away the 
old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank 
two feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of 
the frames : as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings around' 
the remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be 
careful to let off the steam, aud give air to tiie plants at all 
opportunities. 

Give necessary Waterings, mostly in the morning of a 
mild day, in early forcing; and in the afternoon in the 
advanced season of hot sunny weather. Some use water 
impregnated with sheep or pigeons' dung. As the roots 
begin to spread, and the vines to run, the hills should be 
enlarged hj gathering up the earth around them, a supply 
of good mould should be furnished to gather up as required^- 
for earthing around the plants.^ 



FORCING CVCUUBERS. Ill 

When the plants have made one or two joints, stop them, 
after which they generally put forth two shoots, each of 
which let run till tliey have made one or two clear joints, 
and then stop them ; and afterwards continue throughout 
the season to stop them at every joint ; this will strengthen 
the plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early. 

The following artificial operation is recommended by 
Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the 
production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In 
plants more freely exposed to the open air, the impregnation 
is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms 
are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this ope- 
ration. 

" The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, " bears male 
and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The 
latter only produce the fruit, which appears first in minia- 
ture, close under the base, even before the flower expands. 
There is never any in the males ; but these are placed in 
the vicinity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, 
by the dispersion of their farina, to impregnate the female 
blossom ; the fruit of which will not otherwise swell to its 
full size, and the seeds will be abortive. The early plants 
under glass, not having the full current of nutural air, nor 
the assistance of bees and other winged insects to convey 
the farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to 
eftect the impregnation. At the time of fructification, watch 
the j)lants daily : and as soon as the female flowers and 
some male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the 
fruit the same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off 
a male blossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk. 
Hold this between the finger and thumb ; pull away the 
flower leaves, or petals, close to the stamens and antherae, 
or central part, which apply close to the pistil in the bosom 
of the female flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge 
tliereon some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed 
thus to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, 
while of a lively full expansion ; and generally perform it 
in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible, 
for every impregnation, as the males are usually more 



112 FORWARDING LETTUCE. 

abundant than the female blossoms. By this mananfemen?, 
the young iVuit will be soon observed to swell Ireely." 

Cucumbers attain tlie proper size ior gatlicring in from, 
fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting ; and ofteu 
ui succession for two or three months or more, in the saipt 
beds, by good culture. 



FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND 
GLASSES. 

If it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at 
an early season, the plants may be raised in pots as before 
directed, and planted in a wuim border either in the eartli, 
or in hot-bed ridg-es. A hand glnss should be provided for 
each hill, which must be kept close down every night, and 
in cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The 
j)l;(nts may be hardened by degrees, by taking off the glass 
in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets Avarm they 
may be left to nature. 



FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER. 

Head Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the Winter 
season, by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made 
in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cab- 
bage plants, &c;. (See aiticle Cabbage.) For such Head 
Lettuce as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the 
Hardy Green, Dutch, and Egyptian Coss, are the moel 
suitable kinds to sow ; and jjkints may be raised in the 
open boi-der by sowing seed two or three times between the 
middle of August and the first week in September. The 
plants from these sowings may be set out, abf)ut six inches 
apart, in cold-beds, when thoy are about one or two inches 
high. 

In September and early in October, some of the Silesia, 
Sugar loaf. Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts,^ 
may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of 
•ashes, will prodtice plants in from a month to six weeks j 



FOACINO MUSHROOMS. 113 

tke»e being planted in gentl« hot-beds, in November and 
D«ceinber, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sap- 
ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same 
attention is necessary, as respects the protection of th«f« 
beds, as for other half hardy plants. 



FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS. 1 

The Agaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in 
the vegetable kingdom. The species are determined upon 
various principles. As some of the kinds are poisonous, it 
is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon 
says, it is most readily distinguislied wiien of a middle size, 
by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. 
In a more advanced stage, the gills become of a chocolate 
colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other 
kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most 
nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine 
odour, and have a disagreeable smell. 

Again : the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true 
Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should 
be gathered only in such places. 

Unwholesome /wrt^i will sometimes spring up on artificial 
beds in gardens ; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a 
spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine 
Mushrooms. The baneful quality of the toad-stool, Agaricus 
cirocus, is in general indicated by a sickly nauseous smell, 
though some Imrtful sorts are so far without any thing dis- 
agreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion, drawn from 
tliat alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds, however, 
invariably emit a grateful rich scent. The Agaricus cam- 
pestris is most generally cultivated. Dr. Withering men- 
tions other eatable varieties, which run considerably larger, 
but which are inferior in flavor ; he says, " that a plant of 
the variety Georgia, was gathered in an old hot-bed at 
Birmingham, which weighed fourteen pounds, and Mr. 
Stackhouse found one fifty-four inches in circumferenee, 
having a stem as thick as a man's wrist." 

10* 



lU 



FORCING MUSHROOMS, 



Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the year» 
by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming 
the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without 
making a bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn 
into the top mould of old hot-beds. 

The metliods of procuring and propagating spawn, and 
of forming Mushroom beds, are numerous. Indigenous 
spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and 
October, or it may be found in its strength and purity in 
the paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse- 
walks under shelter : it is frequeutly found in old hot-beds 
and dunghills, in the summer season, and Mushrooms of 
good quality may often be seen beginning to form themselves 
on the surface, like large peas ; when these are observed, it 
is time to take out the spawn, which is generally in hard dry 
lumps of dung, the spawn having the appearance of whitish 
coarse pieces of thread. The true sort has exactly the 
smell of a Mushroom. If spawn thus collected, be required 
for immediate use, it may be planted in the beds at once, or 
it will keep three or fimr years, if laid to dry wiih the earth 
adhering to it, and afterwards placed in a warm dry shed, 
where there is a current of air; but if it be not completely 
dried, the spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not 
bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture. 

Such of )ny readers as may have hitherto been un- 
acquainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must per- 
ceive, from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is 
siniply a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to 
be capable of producing and [(reserving spawn ; but in order 
to have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as 
to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh 
horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ; 
add to this one-third of cow dung, and a small portion of 
^ood earth, to cement it together ; mash the whole into a 
thin compost, like grafting clay ; then form it in the shape 
of bricl' s, which being done, set them on edge, and frequent- 
ly turn tiiem until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or 
two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of 
spawn the size of an egg: the bricks should then be laid 



yORCING MUSHROOMS. Il5 

where they can dry gradually. When dry, lay dry liors© 
dung on a level floor, six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile 
the bricks the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is 
snugly formed, cover it with a small portinn of warm fresh 
horse-dung, sntficient in quantity to diffuse a gentle glow 
through the whole. When the spawn has spread itself 
through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and 
they may be laid up into any dry place for use. Mushroom 
spawn, made according to this re(;eipt, will preserve its vege- 
table powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid 
up : if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. 

Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the open 
air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy 
rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of 
the same snrt under cover, as in the open sheds of hot- 
houses. They are also made in close sheds behind hot- 
houses, or in houses built on purpose, called Mushroom- 
houses. A moderately warm light cellar is pecidiarly 
suited for the purpose ia the Winter season, as no fire is 
necessary, and but little water, the application of which 
frequently proves injurious, when not judiciously managed. 
Mushrooms may be also raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &c. 
placed in warm situations, in old-beds, in pits with glazed 
frames, and in dark frames or pits. 

The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare 
a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, to the thick- 
ness of about a yard, more or less, according to th(! size 
and situation in which the bed is to be formed ; when the 
strong heat has subsided, an inch of good mould may be 
laid over, and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six 
iivchcs apart ; after this is done, another layer of mould, an 
inch thick may be applied, and then a coat of straw. Beds 
well constructed, will |)roduce Mushrooms in five or si.x 
week-, and will contiiiue to produce for several months, if 
care bo taken in gatherings, not to destroy the young ones. 
As Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw 
sboidd be spread carefully over the bed. 

Beds made in a convenient place where there is space aU 
around, may be formed so tis to make four sloping surfaces^ 



116 FORCIUHJ MUSHROOMS. 

similar to the roof of a house ; this by being spawned on 
the four sides will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mi*. 
Nicliol makes liis beds without spawn. The followuig ar« 
his directions, taken from Loudon's Encyclopoedia of Gar- 
dening : 

" After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel, 
or brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry, and free from 
under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick. 
These should be new from the stables, and must not be 
broken, and the drier the l>e:ter. They may be collected 
every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the 
above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment 
or heat. In the whole process of making up, the bed should 
be as much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be 
carefully defended from wet, if out of doors. When this course 
is quite dry, and judged to be past a state of fermentation, 
cover it the thickness of two inches with light dry earth; if 
sandy, so much the better. It is immaterial whether it be 
rich or not, the only use of earth here being for spawn to 
run and mass in. Now lay another course of droppings, 
and earth them over as above, when past a state of fermen- 
tation : then a third course, which, in like manner, earth all 
over. This finishes the bed, which will be a very strong and 
productive one, if properly managed afterwards. 

Observe, that in forming the bed, it should be a little 
rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet or 
moist than the sides. This may be done in forming 
the sole or floor at first, and the bed would then be of 
equal strength in all parts. If it be made up against a 
wall in a cellar, stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a 
few inches from the back to the front, less or more, accord- 
ing to its breadth. I have sometimes been contented with 
two courses as above, instead of three ; and often when 
materials were scarce, have made them up slighter, thus: 
three four-inch courses of droppings, with one inch of earth 
between each, and a two-inch covering at top. Such abed 
as this, I have had produce for ten or twelve months toge- 
ther ; but very much depends on the state of the materials, 



FOBCING MUSHROOMS. 117 

and on the care taken in making it up, also on the after 
management. 

The droppings of hard-fed horses only are ixsefiil. Those 
of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce 
few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm 
horses, fed partly on hard, and partly on green food, and 
from carriage or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay; 
treated them in the same way in every respect; and have 
found, not once but always, those made from the latter most 
productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be pro- 
cured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the coun- 
try, any time of ilie year; and if the supply be plentiful, a 
bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished 
within five or six weeks. Tn as many more weeks, if in a 
stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce 
and often sooner; hut if the situation of the bed be cold, it 
Avill sometimes be two or three months in producing IMush- 
rooms." 

It may be necessary to state further, that extremes of heat, 
cold, drought and moistiu'e, should be avoided in the culti- 
vation of Mushrooms. If the temperature keeps up to 50*^ in 
the Winter, the beds will be safe, and the heat in ihe beds 
may rise to 60 or even 70*^ without injury. Air also must 
be admitted in proportion to the heat, and CO^ should be 
aimed at as a medium temperature. Water, when given a 
little at a time, is better than too much at once, after the 
spawn has begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose 
should always be made blood warm. A light covering of 
straw may be always used to preserve moisture on the sur- 
face ; and if the beds are made in open frames, or otherwise 
subject to exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on 
beds made in a cellar. 

Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms, after having 
been kept over hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn 
is injured or destroyed ; but if on the contrary a bed that 
has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to 
be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with 
warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the 
whole j if this docs not enliven the bed after having lain 5\ 



118 FOKCING MUSHROOMS. 

month, take oft* the earth, and if on examination there is 
no appearance of spawn, the wliole may be destroyed, but if 
on tlie contrary the bed should contain spawn, it may be 
renovated by covering it again, especially if any small 
tubercles l)c discernible; but if the heat should have declined, 
the spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If 
beds be formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or 
straw must be laid over the glass to break off the intense 
heat of the sun. 

Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been 
introduced into the garden, there are several eatable kinds. 
In Poland and Russia there are above thirty sorts in com- 
mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at dif- 
ferent stages of their growth, and used in various ways ; 
raw, boiled, stewed, roasted, and being hung up, and diied 
in their stoves and chimnies, form a part of their Winter 
stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collect- 
ing Mushrooms for food, and none but the IJotanist should 
search for any but the sorts we have described.* Physicians 
say, "that all the edible species should be thoroughly mas- 
ticated before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly 
lessens tlie effects of poisons. When accidents of the sort 
happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, and then 
the vegetable acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon 
juice, or that of apples ; after which, give ether and anti- 
spasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infu- 
sions of gullimt, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recom, 
mended as capable of neutralizing the poisonous principle 
of Mushrooms " It is, however, the safest way not to eat 
any but the Avell known kinds. 



* In Older to ascertain whether what apppnr to be Mushrooms are of 
the true eatable kinds, sprinkle a litttle salt over the inner or spongy- 
part ; if, in a short time after, they turn yellow, they are unwholesome ; 
but if black, they may be considered as genuine iVJushrooms, 



119 
FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND GLASSES. 

Although our citizens have an opportunity of procuring 
Melons without artificial aid, as their continuance is short, 
it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc- 
tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass 
will apply to Melons, with very few exceptions ; care, how- 
ever, must be taken that they be kept away from each other 
at the tirae of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole 
crops being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus 
being raised too near each other. Those who wish to for- 
ward Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to 
raise plants in ; the bed may be formed and the plants 
managed in precisely the same manner as is directed for 
Cucumbers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand- 
glass applied to each hill, Melons may be obtained one 
month earlier than the usual time. 

Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets, 
may gratify the public by pursuing the forwarding, if not the 
forcing system. Ridges may be prepared in the following 
manner. In April or May, a trench may be dug in a warm 
border about two feet deep and three wide, and of sufficient 
length lor as many hand-glasses as are intended to be 
employed, allowing three feet for every hill. Some good 
heating manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same 
as a common hot-bed ; to this must be added good rich 
mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the plants to 
grow in; as soon as the mould is warm, the seedlings may 
be planted, three plants in each hill, after which the hand" 
glasses should be set on, and shaded. After the plants have 
taken root and begun to gi'ow, the glasses should be raised 
in fine days, and propped up so as to admit fresh air, and as 
the warm weather progresses, they may be taken off in the 
middle of fine days, so as to harden the plants gradually to 
the weather; and by the latter end of May they may be left 
to nature. 



120 
FORCING PEAS IN HOT BEDS. 

The best sorts of Peas to force, are the most dwarfish 
kinds, and the seed is better for being two or three years oldj 
as they will bear earlier, and make less straw. Peas run 
less to viae by being transplanted, than when they are sown 
where they are to remain ; the plants may be raised in a 
gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots or 
boxes. They do not require excessive heat ; the tempera- 
ture must be progressive ; beginning at about 50*^ for the 
nursery bed, and from that to 60° or 65° for fruiting. 

When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they 
may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen 
inches apart ; observe, tlie earth in the fruiting bed should 
be from twelve. to eighteen inches in depth. 

As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be 
stirred; and when six inches liigh, small sticks maybe 
applied, so tliat the tendrils of the Peas may easily take 
hold ; and they should be moulded at the bottom to enable 
them to support themselves. 

When they appear in blossom, nip the top off; this 
greatly promotes the forming and fdling of the pods; they 
will require to be regularly watered, and as the Spring 
advances they maybe exposed to the weather, taking care 
lo shelter them in the event of a sudden change. 



FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. 

Potatoes may be forced in a great variety of ways. 
Those who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will af 
course provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined 
to produce large tops, the Broughton dwarf. Early mule, 
Nonpareil and the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, are of thi^ 
description. 

Potatoes may be forwarded in growth previous to their 
being planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm damp 
cellar. Some forward them in pots and boxes, and after- 
wards mature them in a hot-bed ; others plant them in the 



t'ORWARDING RADISHES, «fec. 121 

bed at once, in which case the bed sliould be moulded from 
fifteen to twenty inches deep, and the heating materials 
should be sufficient to keep up a moderate heat for two or 
three months. 

Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this 
climate, is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant one set in 
each pot in January, set them in a warm cellar till a bed 
can be prepared in February, in this put in the pots. While, 
the tuberous roots are forming, and before they fill the pots, 
prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in 
the mould with the balls of earth attached to them. 

The beds should be kept free from frost, and air should 
be given at every opportunity. The common round Potatoes 
may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a sliglit 
hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders, 
a quantity of comb-maker's shavings may be deposited in 
■each hill ; this will greatly promote their growth. 



FORWARDING RADISHES, &c. 

Radishes may be obtained early in the Spring by means 
of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame should be a 
foot in depth, and air should be admitted every day after 
they are up, or they will incline more to tops than roots. If 
they come up too thick, they should be thinned to one ov 
two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion 
requires, and keep them well covered in cold nights. 

For raising early Radishesj without frames, hot-beds may 
be made in ridges, and arched over with hoop bends, or 
pliant rods, which should be covered with mats constantly 
at night, and during the day in very cold weather. In 
moderate days, turn up the mats at the warmest side ; and 
on a fine mild day, take them wholly off, and harden them 
gradually to the weather. 

Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of salads, or pot 
herbs, may be raised in tiie same way by sowing the seed in 
drills, and keeping the ground clear of weeds. 

11 



122 

FORWARDING RHUBARB. 

Those who may desire to have this excellent substitat^ 
for fruit at an early season, may procure it without much 
trouble. It is customary with some persons in the Southern 
parts of England to keep this plant growing in their 
kitchens, so that they may have it for use at any time. They 
have strong neat boxes, made for the purpose ; about three 
feet deep and two wide, and in length according to the 
demand, from four to eight feet ; these being kept clean^ 
have the appearance of flour-bins, and they are sometimes 
so contrived as to have shelves over them in imitation of a 
kitchen diesser. The plants being taken up out of the gar- 
den towards Winter, are placed as close at the bottom o 
the box as they can be put, with their crowns level ; and 
some sand being thrown over sufficient to fill up the inter- 
stices, and to cover the crowns about half an inch, finishes 
the operation. No further trouble is necessary, except to 
give a little water, just to keep the roots moist, as they need 
no light at all ; and if the roots be planted in the garden 
when Spring opens, they will, after having taken root, vege- 
tate as strongly as before they were removed. 

Roots of Rhubarb taken up in the Autnmn, and packed 
in sand deposited in a warm cellar, will produce stalks earlier 
than if kept in the garden, and if placed in hot-beds they 
will yield abundantly, and that at a very early season. 

The consumption of this plant in the British metropolis 
may be judged of by the following extract from a London 
Gardener's Magazine. " Rhubarb, which has for some 
years past been cultivated, is still a subject of increasing 
interest, and more extensively in demand than ever. On 
the fifth of May, no less than eight waggon loads, each 
weio'liing at least a ton, with an equal quantity in smaller 
proportions, were sold in Covent-garden market alone. One 
cultivator, Mr. Myatt, of New Cross, Deptford, had three 
waggon loads ; he has, I believe, nearly twenty acres of it 
under culture. This plant contains an acid as fine as the 
Gooseberry, for pies and tarts ; a square rod of ground will 
supply a family ; and it maybe used till midsummer or later. 
For fuller explanations, see article Rhubarb. 



i23 



FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL 
PLANTS, &c. 



For the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other 
salad herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomatoe- plants, &.c. in small 
quantities, a hot-bed may be made, early in the Spring, of 
good beating materials, on the top of which may be laid 
leaf mould, old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about 
nine inches. The various kinds of seeds may be sown in 
boxes or flower pots, and plunged in the top mould up to 
their rims, and by being well attended to, a supply of small 
salads, as well as small seedling plants, may be raised with- 
out much labour or difficulty. This method is also well 
calculated for the raising of Annual flower plants at an 
early season. 



FORWARDING TOMATOES. 

As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late 
years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to 
observe, that plants raised from seeds sown in hot-beds the 
latter end of February, or early in March, as directed in 
former pages, will grow to the length of four inches and 
upwards, by the first of April, which is one month earlier 
than they can with safety be trusted in the open garden. If 
a few of tliese be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted 
into flower pots, they may be kept growing therein until 
settled warm weather, and then turned out and deposited 
in the ground with the balls of earth entire ; or a fruiting 
bed may be prepared by the first of April, in the manner 
recommended for Bush Beans, Cucumbers, &c., and the 
plants inserted in the earth at once ; these will produce ripe 
fruit a month or six weeks earlier than those cultivated in 
the ordinary way. 



124 FORCING TEGETABLF.S. 

The following simple method of forcing vegetables on a 
small scale, is recommended by a correspondent of a Lon- 
don Magazine: — 

" Mushrooms in Winter I obtain by a very simple though 
not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one 
foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of horse droppings, per- 
fectly dry ; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the 
boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must 
be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the 
boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together. 

" Four such boxes at work, are sufficient for a moderate 
demand; and of a dozen, four brought on at a time, and 
placed upon the flue of a greenhouse stove, will produce a 
fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be 
covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, 
Avatered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on 
the flue of a greenhouse ; a warm stable, cellar, or any 
other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is 
also convenient for affording a plentiful stock of superior 
spawn. 

"The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus; but 
for this purpose a suflicient stock of three-year old plants 
must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, four of which are 
the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling 
family. Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner's bark, leaf 
mould, or any similar mould ; on this, pack the roots as 
thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. 
Any place in a forcing house will suit them ; on the flue, 
under the stage, or in short, any place where they can 
enjoy the necessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus 
and Mushrooms, Sea Kale, Buda Kale, Angelica, small 
salad, as also other pot herbs, may be raised in the same 
manner." 

Those who have not the conveniences recommended in 
a greenhouse, &.c. may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The 
glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will 
soon pi-oraote the growth of the plants, and produce vegeta- 
table luxuries at a season when garden products in general 
are comparatively scarce. 



METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 125 

It is unnecessary to show of how much value such 
processes may be in minor estabhshments, or in a young 
country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the 
successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have 
treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their 
growth. If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter 
myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these 
luxuries of the garden. My directions ate founded on the 
success attending the practice of some of the best gardeners 
in this country. I have also had sufficient experience to 
warrant me in this attempt to contribute my mite towards 
the attainment of this kind of useful knowledge. 



METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 

HouBLON. Humulus lupulus. 

Although the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, as it is 
more or less used in every part of our country, it may not 
be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that in 
proportion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our 
citizens will have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ; 
and as a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops 
are cured, I propose giving directions for their management 
throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare 
their own. My information is collected chiefly from Lou- 
don's Encyclopaedia of Plants. 

" The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknown 
length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving 
beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the 
reign of Henry the Eighth ; though indigenous both in 
Scotland and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries, 
owing to the humidity of their autumnal season. Like 
other plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on dif- 
ferent individuals ; the female plants, therefore, are altne 
cultivated. There are several varieties grown in Kent and 
Surrey, under the name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, 
&c. ; the first is the most hardy, differing little from the 

11* 



126 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 

Wild or Hedge Hop ; the Goldings is an improved and 
hjo-hly productive variety, but more subject to blight than 
the other.* 

The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a 
sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as 
to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be 
well pulverized and manured previous to planting. In Hop 
districts the ground is generally trenched either with a 
plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in 
rows six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. By 
some, five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular 
form, which circles are distant five or six feet from each 
other. The plants or cuttings are procured from the most 
healthy of the old stools ; each should have two joints or 
buds: from the one which is placed in the ground springs 
the root, and from the other tlie stalk. Some plant the 
cuttings at once where they are to remain, and by others 
they are nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of 
Beans or Cabbage is genernlly taken the first year. Some- 
times no poles are placed at the plants till the second year, 
and then only short ones of six or seven feet. The third 
year the Hop generally comes into full bearing, and then 
from four to six poles from fourteen to sixteen feet in length 
are placed to each circle, or one pole to each plant, if culti- 
vated in straight rows. The most durable timber for poles 
is that of the Spanish Chesnut. 

The afterculture of the Hop consists in stirring the soil, 
and keeping it free from weeds : in guiding the shoots to 
the poles, and sometimes tying them for that purpose with 
bass or withered rushes ; in eradicating any superfluous 
shoots which may rise from the root, and in raising a small 
heap of earth over the root to nourish the plant. 

Hops are known to be ready for gathering when the chaffy 
capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consistence. 



* Besides the.se are the Farnham, or golden grape, which is cultivated 
for an early crop; and for late pickinij, the Aiayfield grape, or ruffler, 
is esfsemed, wliich is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary, 
lesttlie v^.rieties get mixod, ns tliey will uoi ripen or dry equally, and 
consL'qiiently cannot be o ono uniform coli'iir and quality. 



METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 127 

Eacli chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed. 
Before these arc picked, the stalks are detached, and the 
poles pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood, 
two or three poles at a time. The Hops arc then picked Off 
by women and children. After being carefully separated 
fi-oni the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large 
cloth hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks. 
When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large 
sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to 
be dried. This is always to be done as soon as possible 
after they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable 
damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain 
long in the green state in which they are picked. In very 
warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state, 
they will often heat in five or six hours ; for this reason, the 
kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from 
the commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking 
season. 

The operation of drying Hops is not materially diffierent 
from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con- 
struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight 
to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet, 
and the Hops ripe or immature. When the ends of the Hop 
stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off 
the kiln, and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite 
cool, when they are put into bags. 

The bagging of Hops is thus performed : in the floor of 
the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole 
or ti'ap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After 
tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower corners of a 
large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the 
bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest 
on the edges of the hole or trap; and the bag itself being 
then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when 
a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in 
small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity 
of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When 
the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it 
will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop, 



128 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 

and tlie end sewed up, two other handles having been pre- 
viously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned 
above. The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put 
iQto pockets or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or 
heavy bagging. The former are chiefly used for brewing 
fine ale, and the latter by the porter brewers. But when 
Hops are intended to be kept two or three years, they are 
put into bags of strong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to 
exclude the air. 

The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the 
operation of picking. The shoot or bind being stripped off", 
such poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a 
conical pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is 
formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from 
their tops, and their lower ends spread out. 

The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as that of 
the Hop ; in a good season an acre will produce 20 cwt. but 
from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop. 
The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or 
scarcity of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres t« 
them, and by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of 
forming a Bop plantation are considerable ; but once in 
bearing, it will continue so for ten or fifteen years before it 
requires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to 
diseases; when young it is devoured by fleas of different 
kinds ; at a more advanced stage, it is attacked by the green 
fly, re5 spider, and ottermoth, the larvoe of which prey even 
upon the roots. The honey-dew often materially injures 
the Hop crop ; and the mould, the fire-blast, and other 
blights, injure it at different times towards the latter period 
of the growth of the plant." 

It appears from an article in the " Genesee Farmer," 
that the culture of Hops is becoming an important branch 
of husbandry in the State of New- York. A correspondent 
observes, that ' as fine samples have been grown in Orange 
and Madison counties as in any part of the world. The 
Hop is considered somewhat precarious ; but when the 
season is good, the profit is very great. The average product 
may be stat'^d at 700 lbs., though it has reached 1600 lbs. 



METHOD OF CUtTIVATlNG THE HOP. 129 

to the acre ; and in the latter case the expense amounted 
to sixty dollars. The ordinary, or average price, may be 
stated at eighteen cents per pound. The profits on an 
ordinary crop, according to these assumed data, would be 
about seventy dollars from the acre. It often falls materially 
short of this, however, from the want of knowledge and care 
in gathering and drying the crop. 

" The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh- 
bouring towns on the Hudson, tbis year, (1834) has been 
estimated at 2,300 bales, or 500,000 lbs., which, had not many 
of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would 
have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand 
dollars. But of the 2,300 bales, there was not more than 
200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the 
denomination of first sorts. Many of them were picked too 
early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was 
sufficiently developed ; and others were scorched or smoked 
in curing. This carelessness has seriously aftected the 
character of our Hops abroad, and they are no longer pur- 
chased by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon 
form an important article of export, if their character was 
raised by care in their culture and drying, and a rigid 
inspection." 

The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are 
considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently 
gathered in the Spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus, 
The stalk and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk 
a strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing 
which is described by Linnteus in his Flora Suecica. A 
decoction of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as 
Sarsaparilla ; and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A 
pillow filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended 
with the bad effects of soporifics, which require to be taken 
internally. 



13l 



OBSERVATIONS 



ON THE 



IE<®WIiIE ©iHBISHSJd 



Previous to forming a flower garden, the ground should 
be made mellow and rich, by being well pulverized, ma- 
nured, and prepared in every respect as if intended for a 
kitchen garden. A flower garden should be protected from 
cold cutting winds by close fences, or plantations of shrubs, 
forming a close and compact hedge, which should be neatly 
trimmed every year. Generally speaking, a flower gar- 
den should not be on a large scale, the beds or borders 
should in no part of them be broader than the cultivator 
can reach, without treading on them : the shape and num- 
ber of the beds must be determined by the size of the 
ground, and the taste of the person laying out the garden. 

Much of the beauty of a pleasure garden depends on the 
manner in which it is laid out ; a great variety of figures 
may be indulged in for the flower beds. Some choose oval 
or circular forms, others squares, triangles, hearts, diamonds, 
&c., intersected with winding grass paths and gravel walks. 
In the design of an ornamental garden, nature should be 
imitated ns nearly as practicable, not only in the formation 
and regulation of the flovver beds, but in the adaptation of 
each species to its peculiar element, soil, and situation, 
taking into consideration, that the inmates of a garden con- 
stituting as they do a mingled groupe, collected from all 
the different climates and soils of the vegetable creation, 
require each their most essential aliment, to promote a 
luxuriant growth. 



132 OBSfeRVATIONS OM THE i'LOVVBR GARDEN* 

Neatness should be the prevailhig characteristic of a 
flower garden, which should be so situated as to form an 
ornamental appendage to the house ; and, where circum- 
stances will admit, placed before windows exposed to a 
southern or south-eastern aspect. The principle on which 
it is laid out, ought to be that of exhibiting a variety of 
colour and form, so blended as to produce one beautiful 
whole. In a small flower garden, viewed from the windows 
of a house, this efi'ect is best produced by beds, or borders, 
formed on the side of each other, and parallel to the ^vin- 
dows from whence they afe seen, as by that position the 
colours show themselves to the best advantage. In a retired 
part of the garden, a rustic seat may be formed, over and 
around which grape vines, or honeysuckles, and other 
sweet and ornamental creepers and climbers, may be trained 
on trellises^ so as to aflbrd a pleasant rural retreat. 

In extensive pleasure grounds a rockery, formed of rough 
stone, and rich light soil, may be erected in imitation of a 
mountain, on which maybe cultivated various plants natives 
of mountainous districts, and such indigenous plants as are 
calculated for the situation, also herbaceous plants, pro- 
cumbent and trailing, such as Messembryanthemums, 
Climbing Cordydalis, the various species of Silene, or Catch 
Fly, Gypsophila, Lotus, Ricota or Syrian Honesty, Gro- 
detia, &c. These being interspersed with dwarf plants of 
difterent species, as Mountain Lychnis, Violets, Daisies, 
&c., and so arranged as to cover a great proportion of the 
rocky surface, must necessarily produce a very pleasing 
effect. 

Although the greatest display is produced by a general 
flower garden, that is, by cultivating such a variety of sorts 
in one bed or border, as may nearly insure a constant 
blooming ; yet bulbous plants, while essential to the per- 
fection of the flower garden, lose something of their peuiiar 
beauty when not cultivated by themselves. The extensive 
variety of bulbous roots furnishes means for the formation 
of a garden, the beauty of which, arising from an intermix- 
[lire of every variety of form and colour, would well repay 
the trouble of cultivation, particularly as by a judicious 



X)1BSERVATI0XS ON THE FLOWER GACDEN. 133 

^selection and management, a succession of bloom may be 
kept up for some length of time. As, however, bulbous 
flowers lose their richest tints about the same time that 
annuals begin to display their beauty, there can be no 
well-founded objection to tiie litter being transplanted into 
the bulbous beds, so that the opening blossoms of the 
annuals may fill the place of those just withered, and con- 
tinue to supply the flower-beds with all the gaiety and 
splendour of the floral kingdom. 

The cultivation of Annual Flowers is a delightful employ- 
ment, and well adapted to the amusement of a Lady, who, 
■with the assistance of a labourer to prepare the ground, may 
turn a barren waste into a beauteous flower garden with her 
own hands. Sowing the seed;!, transplanting, watering and 
training the plants, tying them to sticks as props, leading 
them over trellis work, and gathering their seed, are all 
suitable for feminine occupation, and from their affbrdino" 
motives for exercise in the open nir, they contribute greatly 
to health, and tranquillity of mind. 

But the taste of the florist will be exorcised to little pur- 
pose, in the selection of Flowers, if strict attention be not 
paid to the general state of the garden. If there are lawns 
-or grass walks, they should l)e frequently trimmed, and 
more frequently mowed and rolled, to prevent the grass 
from interfering with the flower-beds, and to give the 
whole a neat, regular, carpet-like appearance If there are 
gravel walks, they should he frequently cleaned, replenished 
with fresh gravel, and rolled. Box, and other edgings, 
should be kept clear of weeds, and neatly trimmed every 
Spring. Decayed plants should be removed, and replaced 
with vigorous ones from the nuisf ry bed. Tall flowering 
plants must be sujiported by neat poles or rods ; and all 
dead stalks and leaves from decayed flowers must be frc 
quently removed 

In the summer season, all kinds ofinsects must be timely 
destroyed, and in the evenings of Wiirm days, the flowers 
will require frepient watering. 

12 



134 

INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUE OP 

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 



To raise your flowers, various arts combine ; 
Study these well, and fancy's flight decline. 
Jf you would have a vivid, vigorous breed, 
Of every kind, examine well the seed: 
Learn to what Elements your plants belong, 
What is their constitution, weak or strong ; 
Be their physician, careful of their lives, 
And see that every species daily thrives ; 
These love much Air, these on much Heat rely; 
These without genial Moisture, droop and die. 
Supply the wants of each, and they will pay 
For ail your care through each succeeding day. 



With a view to render this work more generally interest- 
ing, a classification and definition of tlie various species and 
varieties embraced in the annexed Catalogue, is attempted. 
Precision, however, in the performance of this task is im- 
practicable, as it must be conceded that the vegetable fa- 
mily, having been collected from all the varied climates and 
soils, will differ as to height, complexion, time of blossomiag, 
and in many other essential points, when cultivated out of 
their Batural element. 

Some seeds germinate in two or three days after being 
deposited in the earth ; other species v/ill not exhibit signs 
of vegetation under as many weeks. These and other dis- 
tinguishing features arise, in a great measure, from their 
having originated in diverse soils and chmates. Natives 
of cool or temperate climates and moist soils, are generally 
tardy in germinating when cultivated in a warm climate and 
dry soil, for want of a due share of their most essential 
aliment. Moisture ; and natives of warm climates and 
light soils, require artificial culture in cool seasons, and 
unpropitious climates, in order to their being accommo- 
dated with their natural and most important aliment. Heat. 
Air is also a more necessary aliment to some species than 
to others, but these three elements coUcctivelv, constitute 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 133 

the food of plants in general. It may be also observed that 
the adaptation of plants to a soil congenial for them, is of 
the utmost importance ; as plants cannot thrive well, when 
improper food is absorbed by their roots. 

Under favorable circumstances, annual flower plants, in 
general, will produce their flower buds within two months 
from the period of sowing the seed. Some species, soon 
after exhibiting their brilliant blossoms, disappear, while 
others embelUsh the borders by their successional bloom for 
two or three months. An assortment of seed judiciously 
selected, and sown in due season, will afl^ord amusement to 
the cultivator the greater part of a summer, and yield seed 
for the propagation of the species in succeeding years, if 
gathered when ripe, and carefully preserved. 

Annual plants will grow from one to four feet in height, 
in one uniform soil and situation, but as these are diversified 
in almost every garden, no correct conclusion can be drawn ; 
an attempt, however, has been made in the annexed cata- 
logue, to describe the various species as nearly as possible, 
which may serve as a guide to the gardener in planting ; 
the most dwarfish being adapted to the front or outer edge 
of the borders, and others in regular gradation. 

Those species marked thus, § are tender. Those marl?ed 
thus, * should be sown in the spot where they are intended 
to blossom, as they are apt to droop and die by being trans- 
planted. A few are marked thus, f. These though culti- 
vated as annuals, from their facilities in blossoming and 
ripening their seed the first season, are in reality peren- 
nial, as ai*e also some other varieties from warm climates, 
usually denominated annuals ; but as such could not be 
cultivated at all by those who have no means of protecting 
their plants through our severe winters, they may with 
great propriety be treated as tender annuals, by sowing the 
seed every Spring. 



1S3 

A CATALOGUE OF 

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS 
Graines de Jleurcs annuelles. 



§ Denotes tender, t Perennial, Difficult to transplant. HEIGHT 

IN FEET 

^Ageratum, ^Jexican, blue. Ageratum Mexkana \to2 

Alkekeiigi, or Kite Flower, lilac. Atropa Physaloides 3(o 4 

tAIyssuiii Sweet, white. Alyssum Maritlma 1 

'SAmaranthus, three-coloured. Amuranthus Tricolor 2 to 3 

*Argemoue, or Prickly Poppy; yel- Argemone Mexkana, grand'flora, 

lovT, cream colour and white. ochrolenca, etc. 2 (0-4 

Aster, Chinese and German, while. Aster, Clunensis,var. alba, rubra, 

red, striped, purple, &c. striata, purpurea, etc. llo2 

J Balsams; three species andnume- Balsamina hortensis, Mastersiana, 

erous varieties, scarlet, striped, cornuta,coLcinca, striata, purpurea 

purple, crimson, white, &c- alba, etc- 1 to 2 

^Bartonia, the Golden. Bartonia aurea. 2 to 3 

Bladder Ketmia, butf, dark centre. Hibiscus trionum 1 to 2 

Blue Bottle great, Centaurea cyanus, major 3to-4 

Blue Bottle, small. Centaweacyanus, minor \ to 2 

Blumenbachia, white. Blumenbaclda insignis,mider 1 

^Browallia, orAmethyst, blue, white. Bruicallia data, alba, etc. 1 to 2 

^Cacalia, scarlet. Cacaliacoccinea I to 2 

Calliopsls; Drummonu's Coreopsis. Calliopsis Drummondii 2to3 

Calandrina Annual, crimson. Calandrinaspeciosa, etc. I to 2 

tCalandriua, rose and purple ihi^Gi. Calandrina discolor, etc. 2 to3 

'Candytuft, white and purple. Ibcris alba, purpurea, etc, 1 

*Catch Fly, purple and red. Silcnc purpurea, musciiula,etc.2to3 

*Catch Fly, dwarf pink, spotted, &c. Silene Armei ia, picta, etc. lto2 
'Caterpillars, Hedge Hogs and Medico go c:rcinnata,inlertextn, 

Snails, curious. scutcllata, ttc lto2 

Centaurea, or pink sultan. Centaurea Americana 2to3 

China Piiilc, of every shade. Dianthus,Chinensis,annuus \to2 

^Cleome, rose coloured, wliite, &c. Cl'come rosea, spinoca, etc. 2to3 
Chrysanthemum, white, yellow Chi ysanthtmum , coronariwn, 

and three-coloured. alba, lutea, tricolor, etc. 2 to 3 

Clarkia, rose, purple, white, &c. Clarkia elegai.s, pulchella,etc. lto2 
^Clintonia, elegant blue. Clintonia ele.gans- I to2 

^Cockscomb, crimson and yellow, Celocia cristata, lutea 2to3 

§Collinsia, lilac, white, two. coloured Collinsia hetrophilla, bicolor2to3. 
Commeliua, blue-flowering. Conimclina ccclestis 1 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 137 

^Denote! tJBder t Perennial. * Difficult to transplant. HEIGHT 

IN FEET 

"Convolvulus, dwarf variegated «fec. Convolvulus minor, tricolor 1 to2 
Coreopsis, Golden, dark ceutre. Calliopsis tinctoria. 3<o 4 

§Cotton Plant, cream. Gossypium herbaceum 3 to 4 

Crotalaria, purple, yellow and white Crotalaria verrucosa, etc. lto2 

Cuphea Mexican, scarlet, variegated Cuphea lanceolata, etc. Itofi 

tDahlia, Mexican, various. Dahlia suprflua 3 to ^ 

Devil in the Bush, or Love in a Mist. Nigella damascena, Hispanica, 

blue, yellow, pi?rple, white, &c. Orientalis, sativa, etc. 1 to 2 

Dwarf Love in a Mist, various Nigella nana 1 

+ Dew Plant, crimson. Mesemhryanthemum glahrtim \ to 2 

tDidiscus azure blue. Didiscus ccerulcus. 2 to 3 

6Egg Plant, white, for ornament. Solanuvi mdongena lto2 

tEschsch Itzia or Chryseis, yellow, Eschschollzia^crocca, cristata, 

red and orange. Californica, etc. 1 

Eternal Flower, yellow, purple Xeranthemum liicidum, var, lutea, 

and white, bracteatum, alba. 2 to 3 

Euphorbia, variegated. Euphorbia vaiiegata. 2 to 3 

*Evening Primrose, dwarf annual, Oenothera linearis, Drummondii, 

white, yellosv, red, 4&c. lelraplcra, mkrantha, ttc. \ to 2 

"Evening Primrose, large yellow. Otnolheni grandifiora 2 /o 3 

'Evening Primrose, willow leaved, Oinotkera salcifulia 3 <o 4 

Ftather Grass. Stipa pinnala, aicnacea 1 to2 

■"Flos Adonis, or Pheasant Eye, red. Adonis minata 1 to 2 

tFrancoa, pink and purple. Fran'oa appendiculata \Xo2 

Garidella, Nigella like. Garidelta nigellastrum lto2 

Gilia, blue, pink, variegated, &c. Gilia cavituta, tricolor, etc. 2 

^ Globe Amaranthus, crimson.white. Gomphrena glohosa lto2 

Grove Love, blue. Xemophila insignis 1 

tGodctia, the Twiggy, purple. Godetia viminea 3 to 4 

Godetia the Ruddy, annual. Godetia rubricunda 2 fo 3 

Godetia , dwarf, purple and spotted. Godetia Icpida.Lyndleyanaetc. \to2 
*Gypsophila. pinlcaud white. Gypsophda degans,viscosa. \to2 

Hawkweed, yellow and red Crepisharbnta, rubra. \lo2 

^Hibiscus, yellow, with redishcentre Hibiscus Africanus 2to3 

^Horned Poppy, yellow and scarlet. Glauceum lutcuin, phaniceum 2to3 
tHunnemauia, briUiant yellow. Hunnemania famarix folia 3toi 

Hypecoum, tliree species, yellow. Hypecoum., procumbens, etc. lto2 
^Ice Plant, wliite. Mesembryanthcmum chrystalinum 1 

tJacobea, purple, spotted, «fcc. Senecii purpurea, elegans etc. lto2 

Job's Tears, gray. Coizlach.yina,Jobi 2to3 

Larkspur, dwarf Rocket, white, blue, Delphinium ajacis. alba 

purple, pink and other colours. cceru eo, purpurea, etc. 1 toZ 

Larkspur, branching, similar variety Delphinium consolida, ttc. 2 to 3 
Lavatera, red, purple and white. Lavatera, trimestris, alba, etc. 4 to 6 

12* 



138 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS, 

^Denotes tendtr. t Persnnial. Difficult to transplant. HEIGHT 

IN FEET 

Love lies bleeding, crimson. Atnaranthus mdanchuUctis 2to3 

Limaiia, purple. Lunar ia purpurea _ i to 2 

*Lupiii.*, dwarf aunual.yellow, pur- Lup'mus nanus, densi- 

pie, rose, two coloured, &c. Jlorus,hi-co!or, etc. ^ to 2 

Maleshcrbia, blue. Malesherhia coronata 2 to 3 

*Malope, tall scarlet Malope grandiflora Stoi 

♦Malope, dwarf crimson, rose. Malope trifida, malacoides Ito2- 

Marigold, African, yellow, orange. Ti'getesencta 3toi 

Marigold, French, variegated. Tagdes patula 2 to 3 

Marigold, sweet, yellow striped Calendula officinalis i to2 

SMarigold, Fig. yellow Mescmbi yanthemum, annuus I 

Martynia, or, Cuckold's Horn. Murlyniaprob^scidea 2to3 

tMarvrl of Peru, or Four O'Clocks, Mirabilisjalapa, lutea, rubra, 

white yellow, red, striped, scented &iriala, longiJiora,elc. 2 to3 
tMignoiiette, sweet scented. Reseda odorata muLr 1 

tMonkey Flower, yellow, scnrlet, Mimulus moscha!us, i.ardinalip, 

rose, &c. variegated, riru!arius,roseus,etc. llo2 

§Nierembergia, several varieties of Nieiembergia inlermcdia ,viulacea, 
various colours. phatni- ia , etc. 2to3 

Nolana in varieties, blue. Nolanaparado.Tia,prisstrata,ttcl to2 

*Oats, animated. Avcna scnsitiva 2lo3 

tPansey or Heart's Ease, purple, Viola, tri-culor, grandijlora, 
blue, yellow, and rmmerous shades, atro purpurea, caiu'ecf, 
variegated. lutea, etc. under 1 

Pentaptes, scarlet, Pentaptes pl.auicia 2 

Phlox, annual, rosy I ed. Phlox Drummondi lfo3' 

Pimpernel, blue and scarlet. Anagallis indica, arvcnsis 1 

*roppy, large white and scarlet. Paparer somnifa-um, coccinea 3loi 

"Pojjpy dwarf, scarlet white, yel- Papaver rliaap, nudicale Per&i- 

low, striped, Persian red; &e. cum,rubrf\ striata, etc. 1 io 2 

Prince's Feather, crimson. Amaranthus hipoccndriacus 2 to3 

Rocket Candytuft white. Ibcris coronaria 1 to 2 

Rose Campion, annual, dwarf red, Ag<-oste'iima, cesli rosea, gilhago, 
purple. white, striped, &c. laela,ttc. \ 

Salpiglossis, variegated, purple, &c- S~ilpi,^L'i<i~, atiopupurea 2to3 
^aphonaria or Silene, rose Saphonaiia vaccaria 2'.o3 

tSchizanthus in variety, orange, Seldzanlhus letuius, pinnalus, 

wing-leaved, &c. obtusifulia^ etc: 1 to 2 

Scabious, or Morning Bride purple Scabiosa atro purpurea 2to3 

§ Sensitive Plan*, red Mimosa sensitive -under 1 

Shortia, yellow. Shoriia CaUfornica 1 /o 2 

Stock Gilly, Virginian, lilac. Malvtmiamaiitima I 

Strawberry Spinach, red fruit. Blitum eapitatum \to2 

Strephtanthu", rose coloured. Slrrphtun'husoblusifoUut 2to3 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 139 

§._Deaole« (coder, f Perennial, * Diffi«ult to transplant HEIGHT 

IN FEEr 

Sunflower, yellow. Helianihus annuus 6/08 

Sunflower dwarf, yellow. H^Uanlhus minor., nanus 2 to'^ 

Sun Rose, spotted. Helianii^Lmum guttatum \to2 

*Sweet Balm, blue. Melissa cdoratum l^o^J 

*Sweet Basil, blush, lilac, Ocymuin basiliacurn l^o2 

Sweet Sultan, white, yellow, purple Ceataurea moschata, etc I io2 
*Ten Week Stock, scarlet, purple, Mathiola annua var. 

wliite, &Ci graca teneUa etc, 1 to 2 

^Tobacco in varieties, scarlet, yellow Nicotiana, tabacum rustica 3 io 4 

Touch me not, yellow. Noli mi tangere 1 

Trefoil, crimson and scented. Trifuliwrn incarnatum, etc. 3 <o 4 

* Venus' Looking Glass, lilac. Campanula speculura lto2 

Vesicaria in varieties, jellow. Vesicaria grandijlora, etc 2 to 3 
tVerbena in varieties, scarlet. ro:.e, Verbena aubletia,bonarien'ii^, 

blue, lilac, piiflt, &c. Drummondii pulchella,eir.. I lo2 
Zinnia, scarlet, yellow, violet Zinnia coccinea, latea, grandijlora 

coluured, red, &c. rubra, etc. '2 to 3 

The following are climbing and trailing plants, which 
should be planted in situations, where they can be sup- 
ported by poles, twine, or trellises. 

The tallest growing vines and creepers are best adapted 
to the covering of arbour?, to create shade, or conceal any 
unsightly object ; the procun bent trailing and low climbing 
plants, such as tlie Nasturtium, Loasa, Petunia, Sweet 
Pea, &c. may be trained on trellis work of an ornamental 
form, as that of a fm, balloon, or pyramid, whicli should 
be on a scale corresponding to the situation and extent of 
the garden. 

BalloonVine, or Love in a Pufl^ Cardiospermum halicacabum ozJcrKT 

§Balsam,Ap2)le and Pear Momordica balsamina over 10 

Bean Hyacint.'-, white and purple Dolichos alba , purpurea over Vi 

§ Bean, scarlet flowering Phascolus multijlorus over 10 

Bean, Castor Oil or Pahna christi. Ricinus Communis 5 to & 

^Cypress Vine, scarlet and white Ipomma coccinea, alba, ovtr 10 

Gourd, Mock Orange, in v^irleties Cucurb.ta bicolor, aurantia over 10 

Gourd the Bottle, in varieties. Cucurbita legenaria,elavata 10 

§Loasa or ChlUian Nettle, orange Lo'tsa lateritia, aurantiaca etc 3 to 6 
^Morning Glory, scarlet striped, &c. Ipomoea coccinea, itiiata,etc over 10 



140 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

Morning Glory, of the Convolvulus Convolvulus major, purpurea, 
tribe, purple, strijJed, yellow, ccerulca, striata, lutea, incarnata, 
pink, white, tfec, alba etc over 10 

Nasturtium, orange and crimson TropcEctum atrosanguineum 

variegated. nana etc 4 <o 6 

$Thunbergia,wing-leaved, purple Thunbergia alata i to 6 

tPetunia, purple, white rose 8fC. Petunia nyctaginijlora, etc. 2 <o 3 

Sweet Peas, various complexions, Lathyrus odoratus, var. alba, pur- 

white, purple, red, rose, striped &c, purea, rosea, striata, etc. 3 to 4 

As many city gardens are so limited as not to admit of 
an extensive assortment of flowers, a select list may be 
made from the above catalogue to suit the taste of such as 
may be so situated ; and amateurs, who cultivate on a larger 
scale, can obtain such additional sorts as may be desired at 
the different seed stores, under their various names. 

Previous to providing annual flower seeds, the cultivator 
should lay out a plan of his garden, and in making 
allotments of ground for any particular purpose, provision 
should be made for a select assortment of such bulbous, 
tuberous, and perennial plants, as may be deemed most 
worthy of attention, not forgetting to leave room for some 
of the choicest varieties of the Dahlia, the qualities of which 
■will be described hereafter. 

Another consideration is, to have suitable implements 
ready, so that the work may be performed in a skilful 
manner, and at the proper season. A spade, rake, hoc, 
trowel, drilling niachiae, and pruning knife, maybe deemed 
essentials ; and in order to have the beds laid out, with the 
edges straight and even, a garden line should be in rea- 
diness. If labels should be required, they may be made of 
shingles, which being split into strips of about an inch wide, 
and sharpened at one end, will serve for marking distinct 
kinds, either in pots, or on the borders. In order to have 
the names or numbers written in legible characters, the 
labels should be painted on the smooth side with white lead, 
and then marked with black lead pencd before the paint 
gets dry ; inscriptions made in this way, will be as durable 
as the label itself. 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 



141 



The next, and perhaps the most important consideration, 
is, to have the ground in good condition to receive the seed. 
In order to obtain this desirable object, let some good rich 
compost, or very old manure, be provided and well mixed 
with the soil ; dig it a full spit dei p, pulverizing every 
particle. It would be an advantage if the ground could be 
dug to a great depth at the clearing up of Winter, and then 
a^-aiu at the period of sowing seed in the Spring : 

■'•I come, I come — ye have called me long — 
I come o'er the mouutaiii* with light and song ! 
Ye may trace my steps o"er tiie wakening earth, 
By the winds which tell of the Violet'- birth, 
By the Primrose-stars in the shadowy grass, 
By the green leaves opening as I puss." 

A mellow loam, which is a medium earth between the 
extremes of clay and sand, enriched with pulverized manure 
or compost, is adapted to the generality of liowering 
plants ; ground however of a bog^jy nature, composed ot 
black, earth, decayed leaves, «fce., and in a low sitiiation, 
is essential to the hixin'iaiit growth of amphibious plants, 
as AV'ater Lilies, liis, Lobelia, and the like, but as the 
cultivator has not always a choice, he may select such 
plants only, as are most congenial to his peculiar soil and 
situation. 

Previous to digging flower beds or borders, care must be 
taken that they be so arranged as to lay rather highest in 
the middle; this is essential to the draining off a redun- 
dancy of water, as well as to the exhibition of plan's to the 
greatest possible advantage. 

All kinds of annual tlower seeds may be sown in the 
month of April and May, on borders or beds of pulverized 
earth ; the beds should be levelled, and the seeds sown 
either in small patches, each kind by itself, or in drills from 
an eighth to half an inch deep, according to the size or 
nature of the seed. Lupins, Peas, &c., should be planted 
about half an inch deep. Those who would have their plants 
to flower early, should sow the hardy kinds 'he last week in 
March, or early in April. Those varieties marked thus |, 
and thus § may be sown in boxes, or pots of light earth, at 
the same time. These, if exposed to the sun every day, and 



ANNUAL FLOWEK SEEDS. 142 

sheltered in cold nights, will be forwarded in growth and be 
fit to transplant early in June, Those marked *, may be 
also sown in small pots, and as these plants do not bear 
transplanting, they should be turned out ofthe pots with the 
balls of earth entire, and placed in the ground where they 
are intended to flower ; or, if the seed be sown in a bed with 
other kinds, they should be carefully transplanted with a 
trowel, without disturbing their roots. 

The most eligible way to obtain early flowers is to prepare 
a slight hot bed for the tender kinds, (see calendar for Janu- 
ary) and eitlier to plunge the pots therein up to their brims, 
or to sow the seed in the earth in shallow drills, not more 
than a quarter of an inch deep. It may be necessary to state 
that ahhough in favourable seasons, flower seed in general 
will come up in from one to three weeks after it is sown, 
the seed of Cypress vine will not grow until settled warm 
weather, unless in a hot bed ; it should then be partially 
scalded in water, previous to sowing it. 

If some ofthe hardy annuals be sown in September, they 
will grow large enough to survive the Winter, by a slight 
covering of straw or litter ; and if plants thus raised be 
transplanted early in the Spring, they will produce very 
early flowers. The following are some ofthe hardiest: 

Alyssam, sweet Evening Primrose 

Coreopsis, in varieties Larkspur, in varieties 

Cliina aster, in varieties Pansey, or Heart's ease 

Catcii fly Poppy, in varieties 

Chrysantiiemnm, in varieties Rocket Larkspur. 

To prevent disappointment, I would recommend that great 
care be taken to keep the seed beds as clear from weeds 
as possible. It cannot be denied but young plants are apt 
to get smothered, and sometimes pulled up with weeds. 
To obviate this, I would suggest that the seeds be sown in 
shallow drills, each kind by itself, and that an account be 
kept ofthe contents of each drill in a book ; also of all seeds 
that are sown at different times, and by being particular in 
the dates, you may always know when to expect your plants 
to come up. Those persons who may be totally unac- 
quainted with plants, will, by this means, be enabled to 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 



143 



identify each particular kind, and thus become famiharly 
acquainted with them.* In order that this may be rendered 
plain to my readers, I adopt the following plan of entry of 
six kinds sown in pots, and six in the open ground: 

April 20, sowed flower seeds in pots. 

Pot marked A, or 1, Amaranthiis tricolor. 

B, or 2 Balsamines' 

C, or 3, Cockscomb. 

D, or 4, Egg plmt. 

E, or 5, Ice pl-vnt. 

F, or 6, Mignonette. 

These pots may be either marked wnth letters, or figures 
on the outside, to answer with the book, or notches may be 
cut in wood, or other labels affixed to the pots, and entered 
accordingly. 

April 30, sowed flower seeds in drills, as under 

No; 1, Bladder Ketmia. 

2, Coreopsis Tinctoria. 

3, Yellow eternal flower. 

4, Globe amaranthiis. 

5, Princes' feather. 

6, Larkspur, branching. 

If these numbers be continued to 100, or even 1000, there 
can be no mistake, provided the rows are all marked accord- 



* Lest the reader should contend that the author is hereby shifting 
his own duty and responsibility on the cultivator, it may be necessary to 
observe that a definition of all the peculiar qualities, forms, attitudes 
and habits of growth, of the numei-ous species and varieties of plants, 
embraced in an extensive catalogue, with minute directions for the 
most appropriate culture of each, would alone occupy more space 
than is allotted for this treatise, and that to expatiate on all the various 
features of the floral kingdom, is a task which no author has ever 
attemjjted; nor cananvlibrarv be found containing such adesirleralum. 

The cultivator of a small garden may, however, by means of a memo- 
randum book, describe the iieculiarlties of such plants .-is come under 
his special care, as upright, procumbent, trailing, climbing, bushy, 
slender stalked, herbaceous, shrubby, &c., and thus learn how to 
cultivate and arrange the same, or similar plants, advantageously in 
succeeding years; and it must be admitted that a few flowers selected, 
so as to harmonize in their colours ,nic\ habits of growth, cultivated 
with precision, as respects soil and situation congenial to them, and 
trained and pruned into regular and compact shapes, will yield more 
pleasure and amusement, than three times the number taken promiscuous- 
ly and cultivated under one uniform treatment, as is the general, though 
not most judicious practice. 



144 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

ing to the entry in the book ; or if No. 1 b3 noted, plain 
sticks will answer afterwards, if one be stuck at each end 
of every row. In this case it would be well to leave a space 
every ten or twenty rows, and to note the number of the 
rows ; by this means, they can be more easily traced. 

Some species of dwarf Annuals, such as the sweet 
Alyssum, Candytuft, Ciarkia Pulchella, Mignonette, Pim- 
pernell, and such others as grow not over a foot in height, 
may be cultivated in small beds, either separate or two or 
three kinds mixed together. Claikia pulchella suits very 
well with Mignonette, as it will tlirive in moderately poor 
soil, which is the best adapted for that plant when fragrance 
is an object. The reason that some Mignonette has 
scarcely any scent, is, because the soil in wliich it is culti- 
vated is too rich ; and this leads me to remark farther, that 
what some call Tree Mignonette, and admire on account of 
its fragrance, is the same variety as the ordinary kind, 
cultivated as a perennial plant. It may be propagated by 
cuttings, and trained so as to form a tree ; which being 
transplanted into poor ground, will yield more fragrance 
than when grown as an annual in a rich compost or soil. 

The best Avay to manage the mixed species, is to level 
down a narrow border of rather poor soil, and sow it all 
over with Mignonette, then with Ciarkia pulchella ; when 
■ the plants are up, both kinds should be thinned out equally, 
so as to leave the plants from one to two inches apart all 
over the bed ; these when they come into blossom will form 
a rich mass, and have a very pretty effect, the bushiness of 
the Mignonette hiding the naked stalks of tlie Ciarkia. 
Th(j White Alyssum and Purple Candytuft, form a pleasing 
contrast when mixed in ecpml proportions, and also the 
Dwarf Scarlet and bine Pimpcrnell. 

The new species of Dwarf annual Phlox, I'hior Drum- 
monrlii, are described in a London Magazine .os a splendid 
sight when cultivated in patches "Every flower, though of 
the deepest carmine, has its petals of a pale blush colour on 
the under side, and every petal though of the palest pink, 
has a dark carmine spot at its base. Thus the variety of 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 146 

^colours displayed in a bed of these flowers, almost exceeds 
description, and when they are seen under a bright sun, 
and agitated by a gentle breeze, the effect is extraordinarily 
brilliant." 

When seeds are intended to be sown in patches, which 
is often done for want of an unoccupied border, the best 
way to perform this business is, after having pulverized 
the soil, to impress circular drills in the surface with the 
rim of a flower pot, which may be large or small, according 
to fancy. By sowing seeds in such circular drills, the plants 
can be more easily traced than when scattered promiscuously 
over the ground, and the weeds can be destroyed with less 
risk, and trouble. Such kinds as are marked in the cata- 
logue* may remain as sown, or if parted, they should be 
removed with a scoop trowel in a careful manner, in small 
tufts, and this business, as well as transplanting in general, 
should be always done immediately preceding, or after rain, 
and in cloudy v/eather. 

Herbaceous plants in general will not flower well, if grown 
in clusters ; they should, therefore, be thinned or trans- 
planted into the regular beds, at all favourable opportuni- 
ties, after they get about an inch in length ; and as there is 
always a risk of some plants not taking root, it is safest to 
plant a few of each sort every time, taking care to diversify 
the colours, and also to leave a few plants in the seed beds, 
for the purpose of substituting in the room of such plants 
whose period of flowering may be over ; as is the case gene- 
rally with early Perennial plants and bulbs, at about the 
season the last of the Annuals are fit to remove. 

The transplanting may be done with a small trowel, or a. 
neat dibble made for the purpose. 



13 



: I 146 

PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS 

TO THE CATALOGUE OF 

BIENNIAL Sf PERENNIAL FLO WER SEEDS. 



The remarks preceding our Catalogue of Annuals, will 
with few exceptions, apply to that of Biennials and Peren- 
nials ; and it may be observed further, that the circulation of 
the sap in roots and stalks of plants, is influenced by like 
causes, and subject to the same vicissitudes as the germin- 
ation of seed, which principle is exemplified by some plants 
of various species putting forth their leaves and flowers at a 
later period than others in the same location, as if waiting 
for nature to replenish the earth with food adapted to their 
respective requirements ; which by the gradual changes 
from cool to temperate, and from that to warm weather, 
is efi'ected to that degree as to enable all the various species 
of plants, collected from every climate and soil under the 
Sun, to reward the industrious cultivator, by a gradual exhi- 
bition of their fascinating blossoms, and a distribution oftheir 
odoriferous sweets, throughout the three propitious seasons 
of the year, i e. Spring, Summer and Autumn. 

In designating Biennials from the Perennials, I have only 
marked such as are apt to die after once blossoming, and 
which can only be renewed from seed. Some of those spe- 
cies, frequently classed with Biennials, as Aquilegia or 
Columbines, Dtanthus, &c. are in reality Perennial, and 
may be easily perpetuated from year to year, by suckers, 
layers, or any of the ordinary methods of propagation ; and 
here I would observe, that frequent renewal of the roots of 
Perennials, is absolutely necessary to their prosperity or very 
existence ; and also that many species, are by nature best 
adapted for propagation at the footstalks, from their yielding 
little or no seed at the top of the plant. This is particularly 
the case with choice double-flowering plants, the roots of 
irhich, in many cases, constitute the seed ; these conse- 
quently must be perpetuated by root offsets, cuttings, &c. 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWEKS. 147 

The annexed Catalogue embraces a great proportion of 
the most desirable of what are termed fibrous-rooted herba- 
ceous plants ; the seed or roots of which m;iy be obtained at 
Seed Stores and Nurseries, The estimated height applies 
to plants of a year's growth ; some will arrive to more than 
three times that height when cultivated in a greenhouse, and 
even in open ground culture the same plants will vary con. 
siderably, according to the soil or situation in which they 
are grown.; the specified height however, although una- 
voidably imperfect, may serve as a guide to the gardener in 
arranging his flower beds. Those marked thus,")" being ten- 
der, and half hardy will need protection in the Winter : those 
marked thus, || are Biennial : those marked thus, * yield 
little or no seed. There are also many other species of which 
the seed is unattainable, from its being suffered to scatter by 
the wind, and in some cases, from the climate being unfavour- 
able to its ripening ; these, as will be shown hereafter, may 
be perpetuated by other methods. 



A CATALOGUE OF 

BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

Graines de Jleiirs bisannuelles et vivaces, 

t Denotes tender. || Biennisl. * Seed uDitlainable. HEIGHT 

IN FEET 

Adonis, Spring-flowering, yellow Adonis vernaUs 2 to 3 

Alpine Columbine, purple Aquilegia alpina ' 1 <o 2 

Alyssum, yellow Alyssmn saxatile 1 

Asclepias, orange, purple, &c. Asckpias incarnata, etc, 2 <o 3 

Asiatic Globe flower, yellow Troll ius As iaticus 3 to 4 

tAurieula, variegated Primula auricula under 1 

tBalm of Gilead, fragrant Dracocephalum canariense 1 

Bee Larkspur, blue and brown Delphinium datum 4 to 6 

Bergamot, crimson, blue Monarda Kalmiana, didyma 2 to 3 

*tCanary Aster, jjurple Cineraria amelloides 1 

tCalceolaria, various colours Calceolaria variabilis 2 to 3 

Campanula Peren., blue, white, &c. Campanula persicafolia, etc. 2 to 3 

^[Canterbury Bells, blue, white Campanula medium 2 to 3 

tCaper tree, green Euphorbia lathyrus 2 to 3 

Cardinal flower, scarlet hobelia cardinalis 3 to 4 



148 BIE.NNIAL \SD PiXE^.NL\L FLOWERS. 

T Deauua teaJer. || Bieooial. • Seel uautaioatle, HE 16 HI 

l> FEST 

Cassb Maryland, yellow Cassia yiurylunJica 3 to 4 

tCaruadou Piuk, various colours Dianthus curyophifUus 1 to 2 

*rCelcia, red & yellow, variegated Cdcia »rieMtulis 1 to 2 

Chinese Imperial Piuk, various DiaiUhas Chinensis 1 to 2 

tChiuese Primrose. lilac, white Pnmula Cuinertsis under 1 

Clo*e Imperial Piuk, crimson LHanthas hartensis 1 to 2 

tColutea, scarlet StUherlaudiafrutetee/ts 2 to 3 

*Coreopsis, Peremiial, in varieties, CaUu/i/sisgrftitdijliwt, laaceoLt-- 

yellow twit, auric ttluta. eW. 2 to 3 

*tCorottilIa, yellow Cffranil'a sfuaca 2 to 3 

*Corouet, or doubleLychniSjScarlet Lgcfmis ctfrvnuta 2 to 3 

H Clary, purple topped Salvia sclara 1 to 2 

Coliunbiue. various colours A(fuite^ia culs'tris 1 to 3 

"tDaisy Garden, various colours BeUis.perenHis hortensis.ttnder 1 

I>ragon's head, bluish pink Iracocephulum yirgittiaHmm 3 to 4 

Dragon s head, purple and striped Dracocejthalum argumeHse. etc. I to 2 

European Globe Flower, yeltow Troltius Eur>/paas 2 to 3 

II Evening Prinaose, yellow (Enothera biennis 3 to 4 

£upat<»riuBi, blue, white Eupa'^ritirn cvmtea. etc. 2 to 3 

II Foxglove, purple, white IHg^italis jHtrparea, alba 3 to 4 

Froiinelia, red, white Jhctttinmis rubra, alba 1 to 2 

Gentian, purpie. yello'*', white Getttiana purpwrtia, ItUea, etc. I 

Gentian, porcelain flowered Geniunaadsctntdttis 2to3 

tGeranium, various colcirs Pelar^oHutm zonule 2 to. 3 

Globe Thistle, purple Ecninops splujyrocephulus 2 to 3 

tHepatica, blue, piuk Anemone hepatica under 1 

Hibiscus, pint, white, purple Hibi:sctispalustTis,speciasus,etc3 to 4 

Hoilyaoek Antwerp, China and Althea jtora Chinensis, 

English, of various colours Angticu, etc. 4 to 5 

11 Honesty, or Satia flower, blush Lanaria biemis 2 to 3 

tludian Shot, yellow, scarlet Cunna htdica, liUea, cocanea 2 

Ivy-leaved Toad Flax, pLuk L itHarvi cymba.'aria 1 to 2 

Jacob's Ladder, blue Polemaniujn certUeum 1 to 2 

tJerusalem Cherry, red fruit Solamtm pgemlo, capsicmm 2 to 3 

Larkspur, Perennial, purple, pinlv. Feiphiitinm groMHflorMin. 

white, &c. pvrenn s 2 to 5 

*Liacris, loug spiked, purple Liutris spicata. elegtats. etc. 3 to 4 

*LiIv of the Valley, white Cfftcalleria majalis 1 

tLupin, Pereunial, blue, white, Lupinus pereunis. miUabilis, 

changeable, <it c . cariabiOs, etc. 2 to 3 

Lj«kaadea, or American Phlox, Phlox paxicnlata accmmiaiata. 

ttWr purple, red. white. &c. pgntnudalis odorata, etc. 3 to <t 

*Lychnidea, early, piuk, «&c. Phlox smbtdata, stoUnt'Jvra etc. 1 1»% 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 149 

t Denolei tender. || Biennial. * Seed onatUiiDilile . HEIGHT 

IN FEET 

•Lychnis Mountaiu, variegated Lychnis Alpina 1 to 2 

Lychnis Scarlet Lychnis Chakedonica 3 to 4 

London Pride, variegated Dianthus dcltoidcs 1 

tSIesembryanthemum, variegated, Mesonbryanthemutn acinaci- 

yellow, white, purple, &c. fornu, spcctahile, tricolor, etc, 1 to 2 

tMexican Sage, scarlet Salvia Splendens 2 to 3 

Monkshood, white, bine, &c. Aconitum album, rersi^olor,ctc. 4 to 6 

Monkey flower, vellow, purple sT^oisMimtilus ringens, luUus, etc. 1 to 2 
tOleander, pink, white Nerium, Oleander 2 to 3 

*Pardanthus, Chinese, orange Pardanthus, Chincnsis 2 

Pentstemon, purple Pentstcinon,campamdcUa 2 to 3 

Perennial Flax, purple Linum, perennis 2 to 3 

fPeriwiukle. Madagascar, rose.white /'inm rosea, alba 1 to 2 

Pink, Piieasant-eyed. variegated Diatith.is plumarius under 1 

tPolyanthns, variable and splendid Primula polyanthus under 1 

Poppy, Perennial, red, yellow Papaver orienlale, bracleata 2 to 3 

Potentilla, rose, puce, yellow Polenlilla forvwsa, splendens I to 2 

tllPyraniidal Bell flower, blue Campanula pyramidalis 

•Queen of the JMeadows,white,roseS/)iVa5a nlmaria, lobata, etc. 
'Ragged Robin, or Red Lichnis .^firostemmafos cucuia 
Rocket Garden, purple Htsperis matronalis 

IIRose Campion, or Mullen Pink, Agroslemma coronarea, 

rose, white, ifcc. rosea, alba, etc. 

Rudbeckia, yellow, purple Rudbeckia, lulea purpurea 

Saphonaria, rose blush Saphonaria officinalis, etc. 

•Saxifrage, rose, white, purple Saxifraga umbrosa,cras!ifolia,l 
||Snapdragon,white, red, variegated,^7itir//(inwm bicolor, versicolor 

in several splendid varieties coccinea, sparlium, etc. 1 to 2 

Sophora, white, blue, &c. Sophora alba, autralis 2 to 3 

tJIStock Gilliflower, numerous xar'ie-J\Ialkiolaincanus coccinea^ alba, 

lies, scarlet,white, purple, striped purpurea, striata, etc. 1 to 2 

•Sunflower, yellow HeliuntliHs perennis,altissimus3 to 4 

IjSweet Scabious, purple, brown S:abiosa alro purpurea, etc. 2 to 3 
Sweet William, various colours Dianthus barbalus I to 2 

•Thrift, pink and red Stalice vulgaris, speciosa, under 1 

Valerian, Garden, red. white Valeriana rubra, alba 2 /o 3 

Valerian, Sweet-sceuted, blue Polemonium cerulea 3 to 4 

Veronica, variegated, blue Veronica variegala. cerulea 2 to 3 

•Violet, Fragrant, white, blue, &c. Viola odorala. alba, cerulea, under 1 
t|| Wallflower, bloody, yellow Cheiranthus cheiri 1 to 2 

*tWallflower, double perennial Cheiranthus perennis 1 to 2 

tllWall-leaved i Stoclv (iilliflower Cheiranthus glaber 1 to 2 

•Winddower, various colours Anemone coronaria \to 2 

13* 



3 to 4 


3 to 4 


lto2 


2 to 3 


2 to 3 


3 to 4 


1 to2 



150 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS, 

t Denotes tender. || Bicnniil. * Seed outUiiable. HEIGHT 

IN FEET 

Yucca, or Adam's Needle, white Yucca stricta, glmriosa, elc. 3 to 4 
CLIMBIiNG PLANTS. 

For other lists of Climbing Plants, see Catalogue of Flowering and 
Ornamental Shrubs, also the Catalogue of Annuals. 

Calampelis, orange Eccremocarpus scabra over 6 

tC'limbing Cobea, dark purple Cobea scandens over 20 

Eveilisting Peas, pink, Lathyrus lalifolius, rosea, over 10 

IIFrench Honeysuckle, white, red Hedysarum coronarium, etc. over 6 

tPassion Flower, various colours Passiflora incarnala, etc. over 20 



The reader is here reminded that our catalogue of 
Annual flower seeds, contains a few varieties of Perennials, 
which were there introduced because of their aptness to 
blossom in the first season from the sowing of seeds ; these 
with those marked | in the last catalogue, may be sown 
and treated in the manner recommended for the tender 
Annuals. Those intended to be cultivated as greenhouse 
plants, should be taken up before the approach of cold 
weather, transplanted into flower pots, and sheltered either 
in a garden frame, greenhouse, or light room. Those 
plants with tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, Marvel of Peru, 
and also some others of the Bean and Pea tribe, may be 
cut down late in the Autumn ; tiie roots may be then taken 
up and preserved in the same manner as those of other 
tuberous and bulbous-rooted plants, of ^vliich 1 shiill treat 
hereafter. 

Hardy Biennial and Perennial flower seeds may be sown 
in the month of April, in shallow drills. Jf this business be 
performed in the manner recommended for Annuals, they 
can be easily distinguished from each other ; and as these 
plants do not flower the first year, they may be thinned out, 
or removed from the seed beds as soon as they are well 
rooted, and planted either into diff"erent parts of the flower 
bedsj or in a nursery bed. Iftlie latter plan be adopted, 



BIENMAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 151 

they should be planted in rows a foot or more apart, and 
kept free from weeds by means of a small hoe, which will 
greatly promote their growth, and prepare them for trans- 
planting into the regular and permanent blossoming beds, 
either in ihe Autumn or early in the ensuing Spring. 

It may be here observed that Biennials selJnm servive the 
second Winter to flower in perfi-ction, unless they are renewed 
by cuttings of top shoots, youngflower stalks, or casual ofFsets^ 
layers, &c. It will be unnecessary to take this trouble, 
unless it be with any extraordinary double-flowering plants. 
Some of the Perennials may be increased by root offsets 
detached from the old plants, and planted in Spring or 
Autumn ; others by bottom suckers and slips of top shoots, 
layers, pipings of young shoots, &;c. Pinks, SweetWilliaras 
Pansies and double Violets, also Periwinkle, or running 
Myrtle, and many other similar plants, may be increased 
by simply laying their branches an inch or two under the 
surface in July and August. After roots have formed, 
which may be expected in six or eight weeks, each tuft or 
plant may be transplanted into the borders. 

Many sorts of Biennial and Perennial flower seeds may 
be sown in September, or as soon as ripe ; and if the 
plants get strong before the setting in of Winter, some of 
them will flower the Summer next ensuing. The following 
are amongst the hardiest : 

Adonis, Spring-flowering. Lychnis, in varieties 

Alpine Columbine. Larkspur, perennial. 

Alyssuni, yellow. Rose Campion, in varieties. 

Bee, larkspur. Rocket in varieties. 

Columbine, in varieties. Scabious in varieties. 

Evening Primrose. Valerian, Garden. 

Fox-glove, in varieties. Veronica 
Fraxinella. 
Hollyhock, in varieties. 

It may be necessary here to remind the reader of those 
species of beautiful double-flowering Perennial herba- 
ceous plants, which do not produce seed ; some of these 
are inciuded in our Catalogue, they may be obtained at the 
nurseries, and should be introduced into the regular flower 



Everlastm/ Peas. ) ,. . . 
Virgin's Bower. J^'^nbing 



I62 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

beds, either in Autumn or early in the Spring; the mode of 
increasing such, is by layers, cuttings, offsets, &c. detach- 
ed from the old plants. 

As the earth within the flower beds will need to be 
fresh dug and replenished with good compost or manure, 
once in two or three years, it may be necessary to take up 
all the Perennial plants at such times. Such roots as may 
be overgrown, should be deprived of their surplus offsets, 
and may be either planted in a nursery bed, or returned 
with the parent plants into the regular flower beds ; they 
should be inserted a little deeper than before, and the fine 
fresh earth distributed well about the fibres. 

In removing plants into the beds where they are intended 
to blossom, great pains shoukl be taken to preserve some of 
the earth to their roots. The ground should be previously 
brought into good condition, so that they may strike freely, 
and produce their flowers in perfection. The plants should 
be so arranged that they may all be seen, the most dwarfy 
may be placed in front, and others m a regular gradation to 
the tallest behind ; or the tallest may be planted along the 
middle of the beds, and the others on each side according 
to their varied heights and colours. 

There is no part of gardening which requires so much 
elegance of taste and fancy, as in setting off a border or bed 
of intermixed flowers to advantage. In assemblage with 
other flowers, the different kinds of hardy bulbs may be 
planted in small clumps of six, seven, or eight inches in 
diameter, three, four, five or moi'e roots in each, according 
to their size and growth, and tliese at suitable distances 
from one another. Likewise observe to diversify the kinds 
and colours, so as to display when in bloom, the greatest 
possible variety of shades and contrasts. 

If Greenhouse plants be plunged into the flower borders 
in the month of May, they will not only tend to ornament 
the garden, by their diversity of foliage and blossom, but the 
roots will receive a more uniform supply of moisture, than 
if the pots were openly exposed to the sun and wind : care 



BIENNIAL AND FERENNIAL PLANTS. ISS- 

should however be taken to give the different species a situa- 
tion suitable for them.* Hydrangeas, Primulas, Daisies, 
Oleanders, Cammelias, China Roses, and half hardy plants 
in general, thrive best in a moderately shaded situation. 
Geraniums, Jasmines, Helotropes &-c., may be plunged in a 
sunny situation, provided they be regularly supplied with 
water. Many species planted for ornament in the flower 

* In some countries, the wealthy have changeable flower gardens; 
the principal of which consists in the power of chang!:'g its production 
at pleasure, so that whenever any plant or group of plants, begin to 
decay, they can be removed, and their places supplied by others coming 
into bloom. To admit this, a large reserve-nursery is requisite, in which 
the plants must be kept in pots, and removed and plunged in the borders 
as wanted. Sir W. Chambers informs us that the Chinese excel in this 
mode of gardening; and that he has known a maudirin (or noble j have 
the whole furniture and style of his parterre changed in a single night, 
so as next morning to present not only a different description of flowers, 
shrubs, and dwarf trees, but a different arrangement of the beds and 
compartments. Something of the same kind is practised in the gardens 
of the Tuilleries, in Paris; in some of the imperial gardens at Petersburg, 
and in the vice-royal gardens at Monza Gardens of this description 
admit of a very perfect arrangement of aie flowers, whether in the 
mingled manner, in select groups, or according to the natural method. 
It is only with such resources that a flower-gardener can " paint his 
way," as Sir W. Chambers says the Chinese artists do, "not scattering 
their flowers indiscriminately about their borders, but disposing of them 
with great circumspection along th(^ skirts of the plantations, or other 
places v.-here flowers are to be introduced. They reject all that are of a 
straggling growth of harsh colors and poor foliage, choosing only such 
as are of some duration, grow either large or in clusters, are of beautiful 
forms, well leaved, and of tints that harmonize with the greens that sur- 
round them They avoid all sudden transitions, both with regard to 
dimension and colour, rising gradually from the smallest flowers to those 
of the boldest growth; and varying their tints, by easy gradations, from 
white, straw-colour, purple, and incarnate, to the deepest blue^, and most 
brilliant crimsons and scarlets. They frequently blend several roots 
together, whose leaves and flowers unite, and compose' one rich harmo- 
nious mass ; such as the white and purple candytuft, larkspurs, and 
mallows of various colours, double poppie-, lupins, primroses, pinks, and 
carnations ; with many more of which the forms and'colours accord with 
each other ; and the same method they use with flowering shrubs, blend- 
ing white, red, and varie/^ated roses together, purple and white lilacs, 
yellow and white jasmines, altheas of various sorts, and as many others 
as they can with any propriety unite. By these mixtures they increase 
considerably the variety and beauty of their compartments. In their 
large plantations, the flowers generally grow in the natural ground ; but 
in flower-gardens, and all other parts that are highly kept, they are in 
pots buried in the ground, which, as fast as the bloom goes off, are 
removed and others are brought to supply their places ; so that there is 
a constant succession for almost every month in the year ; and the 
flowers are never seen but in the height of their beauty." — Loudon's. 
Encydopadia of Gardenings 



154 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

borders, may at tlio same time be propagated by layers. 
The Fuchsia, or Ear-(li()|), Passion Flower, Ilelotrope, 
Carnation, Petunia, runniiijj Verliena, &c., will iflayed in 
June and July, exhibit tlicir blossoms in ])erfection, and 
yield yoniio- phints (it to transplant into Hower pots in Sep- 
tember and October. 

It miiy be observed further that established plants will 
always proilnce their blossoms earlier and stronger in the 
Spring, than those recently transplanted ; it should, there- 
fore, be an object with gardeners to do the business of 
forming permanent flower beds, and of transplanting hardy 
Perennial and Biennial plants in September or October. 

Tlie hardy bidbous roots must be also planted in Octoben 
or November, which on being properly preserved through 
the Winter will embellish the parterre in Spring by their 
early and Fius r Flowers. 

"First flowers of the Springtime, 

Bright gems of the year, 
All lovely and blooming, 

How fresh ye <i])i)ear ; 
Springinjj up in the ^jurdcn, 

Tiie hedge row and vale, 
Enriched by the showers, 

And faiin (1 by the gale." 

In my preliminary observations, I directed the attention 
of my readers to some important points respecting walks, 
edgings, &c. — Although box is superior to any thing else 
for edgings ; yet in extensive gardens, dwarf plants of 
various kinds may be used for such purpose. Thrift is the 
neatest small evergreen next to box ; but Violets, Pinks, 
Periwinkle, Pansey, Iris, Stone crop, or even Parsley,Thyme, 
Strawberry plants, &c. may be used for the sake of diversity. 
These will require frequent watering and trimming, and the 
Thrift, &c. should be sometimes taken up, divided at the 
roots and replanted. 

Box edgings will also require frequent pruning and trim- 
ming ; and once in from seven to ten years the whole may 



FLOWERING AND ORNAM KM AK SllUtUS. 1^'^ 

be taken up, divided and replanted, and the surplus slips 
may be planted in a nursery bed in rows about a foot apart; 
these will be suitable for making edgings the year following. 
Flower beds should be kept free from weeds, and watered 
occasionally in the Summer. In the Autumn they should 
be covered with leaves, straw or light litter ; this should be 
taken off in the Spring, and the ground should be hoed and 
dressed in such a manner as to enliven the earth around 
the roots of the plants, as also to give the whole a neat 
appearance. 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

Arbrisseaux d'Ornement. 

Shrubs are so closely connected with flowering ])lants, 
and indeed so many of them arc cnibellished with flowers, 
that tl)ey may be coiisiden^d as essential to liie completion 
of an ornamental garden. Tliey are ail Perennial, and arc 
divided into two classes, deciduous and evergreen ; the for- 
mer lose tlieir leaves in the Winter, liie latter oidy shed 
them when others are ready to supply their places. 

Shrubs are not only necessary to the embellishment of a 
flower garden, but many kinds are eligible for hedges to it, 
and may be planted at a trifling expense. These hedges 
shoul! be frequently trimmed and trained, the sides cut even 
and the tops sparingly clipped, so as to make them ornamen- 
tal, as well as useful, and also to increase the vigour of their 
growth. When hedges become open or naked at the 
bottom, they should be plashed down ; this is done by 
cutting the branches half through near ttie gro.und ; they 
will then bend easily, and may be interwoven with the 
adjoining branches. 

When shrubs, creepers, or climbers, are planted against 
walls or trellises, either on account of their rarity, delicacy, 
or to conceal a rough fence, or other unsightly object, they 
require diflferent modes of training ; some attach themselves 



1^ 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 



naturally, as ihe ivy, and merely require to be occasionally 
guided, so as to cause a regular distribution of their shoots ; 
others must be treated like fruit trees, trained thinly, if 
blossoms are the object, and rather thicker, if the intention 
be to show the foliage to the greatest possible advantage. 

Ornamental shrubs grow from one foot to twelve or more 
in height; and where such are planted for ornament, the 
height of each plant, when full grown, should be considered, 
and also the mode of growth, that every one may he so 
planted as to show to advantage, observing that the tall- 
growing should be planted in the back part of the borders, 
and those of low-growth forward ; but if they are'required to 
be planted in clumps, they should be so arranged as to rise 
gradually from the sides to the middle, and be afterwards 
neatly trimmed. 

Shrubs require an annual pruning, at which time cut out 
all irregular and superfluous branches, and head down such 
as require it, forming them into handsome bushes. Apply 
stakes to such as may need support, and see that the low- 
growing ones do not injure each other, nor interfere with 
other dwarfish plants near them. 

Many kinds of shrubs may be raised from seed sown 
early in the Spring, but are more commonly propagated by 
suckers, layers, or cuttings. Like other plants, they require 
a good soil, which should be manured every two or three 
years, and some of the tender kinds should have some pro- 
tection in Winter. 

The following list taken from the New- York Farmer, 
furnished by JMr. Floy, contains the most of those usually 
planted in gardens and on lawns. These will furnish a 
succession of flowers from Spring until Autumn, and may be 
obtained at the nurseries at moderate prices. 



CATALOGUE, &c. 

Amorpha fruticosa, — Indigo shrub, produces handsome 
bunches of purple flowers in June and July. 

Amygdalus nanOy Dwarf double-flowering Almond ; a 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 157 

Very beautiful shrub, about three feet high; blossoms early 
in April. 

Aralia spinosa, or Angelica tree, about ten feet high ; 
flowers in very large bunches, and continues a long season. 

Cytisus Laburnum, or Golden Chain; a most elegant 
shrub, producing long racemes or bunches of yellow flow- 
ers in June and July ; there are two kinds, the 
English and the Scotch Laburnum. The Scotch is the 
largest, forming a pretty large shrub ; the English kind is 
greener, more compact, and by some thought to be the 
handsomest ; they ought to be in every garden. 

Calycanthus Floridus, Allspice, or sweet-scented shrub, a 
native of the Southern States; the flowers are of a very 
dark chocolate colour, and the fragrance very much resem- 
bles ripe strawberries, easily kept when once introduced ; 
this shrub generally grows about five feet high in gardens ; 
blossoms from May to August. 

Ceanothus Americanus, Red root, or Jersey Tea tree, a 
plant or two in the collection, as it flowers in profusion, is 
worth having. 

Ccrcis siliquastrum, or Judas tree. The flowers appear 
very eai'ly in the Spring, before the leaves come out, and 
make a fine appearance : as it grows rather tall, it is calcu- 
lated for the back row of tlie shrubbery. 

Colutea arborescens, or Bladder Senna, having bunches of 
yellow flowers in June and July, which are succeeded by 
seeds in a kind of bladder, calculated for the back or centre 
row of shubberies. 

Crataegus oxyacantjia, the Hawthorn. It makes a pretty 
appearance planted out singly in the back or centre row; 
the flowers are very fragrant ; it is sometimes called the 
Pride of May ; the double white, double scarlet, and single 
scarlet Hawthorn, are extremely beautiful, and ought to be 
in every plantation. Hawthorn hedges are much used in 
England, where they look very handsome when clipped; 
but they do not answer so well in this country, the heat 
of our Summers causing the leaves to fall off" early, often in 
July; on that account they are not much used. We have 
several things which are better calculated for that purpose. 
14 



153 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS 

Cydonia Japonica, or Pyrus Japonica, a very beautiful 
scarlet-flowering shrub, from Japan, has not been in culti- 
vation here for many years. It is found to be very hardy, 
resisting our most severe frosts ; it is evergreen, flowers 
very early, and continues a long time. A second flowering 
takes place in the latter part of the Summer. It is every 
way a desirable shrub. 

Daphne ?nezerion, one of our most early flowering shrubs, 
which blooms freely in April and May, and is very sweet- 
scented. It is rather tender in some situations, but will 
stand our ordinary Winters very well in a sheltered situation. 

Dirca palustris, or Leather wood ; a pretty little shrub, 
growing very regular in shape, and has the appearance of a 
large tree in miniature ; it is a native of our Northern 
States; the flowers, which appear very early in the Spring, 
are yellow, and come out before the leaves. 

Gymnocladus Canadensis, or Kentucky Cofiee tree. The 
berries have a resemblance to coffee, and are said to be 
a good substitute for it ; however, it is a beautiful tree, with 
handsome feathered leaves, and makes a fine contrast with 
others. It should be planted in the back or the centre of 
the plantation, and is very hardy. 

Halesia diptera, and llalesia tetrapttra, two-winged and 
four-winged Silver Bell, or Snow-drop tree. They are both 
natives of the Southern States, but are perfectly hardy here ; 
our most severe Winters do not hurt them. The former 
kind flowers in April, and the latter withholds its blossoms 
until May. They are elegant shrubs. 

Hibiscus Si/riacus, Jl. plena. The double-flowering 
Althea frutex, of which there are several varieties ; the 
double white, double red, double red and while, and striped, 
are the most showy ; they commence their flowering late in 
July, and (Continue until Autumn. The single kind, of 
which there are many varieties, are scarcely worth culti- 
vating, the double ones being raised quite as well, and 
are equally hardy. These are indispensable in every 
plantation. 

Hypericum frutescens. Shrubby Hypericum. There are 
several species of this small beautiful shrub, all natives of 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 159 

the Southern States, but perfectly hardy here. They all 
flower profusely in the Summer, and continue for along 
time. They should be planted in the front row, 

Kcrria Japonica, or Oorchorus Japonica, yellow Japan 
Globe flower ; ahhough a native of Japan, like many other 
Japanese flowers, it is perfectly hardy here. It flowers in 
the greatest profusion at all times, except in the very dead 
of Winter, and will grow almost in any soil or situation. 

Kcelrcutrria paniculata, Japan bladder tree, or Kcelru- 
terius. This is another hardy shrub from Japan. It has 
long racemes of flowers, succeeded by bladder-like fruit, 
and is worthy of cultivation in every good collection. 

Ligustrum vulgare, virens. Large European Privet, a 
very handsome evergreen shrub, flowering profusely in June, 
and produces bunches of black round berries. It bear? 
slipping well, and is therefore well calculated for hedges, or 
to enclose ornamental plantations. It grows quick, and i? 
well adapted to our climate, aud when planted in a hedge- 
row, and kept clipped, it makes a beautiful hedge, and ought 
to be in more general use, 

PhiladeljjJius coronarius, or common Syringa, is very 
ornamental, producing its sweet-scented floWers early in 
the Spring, and in abundance. 

Philadclplius inodorous, and P. grandifiorus, Garland 
Syringa, are both natives of the Southern States, but quite 
hardy here. Their flowers are large, and continue for 
several months, in wreaths or garlands They are well 
calculated for the centre row, and also to hide unsightly 
objects, and have a beautiful effect when mixed with 
monthly honeysuckles, &.c. 

Persica, or Amygdalus Persica,Jl. rosea plena, or double- 
flowering Peach, is very beautiful in shrubberies. It blos- 
soms early, and sometimes bears fruit, but it is cultivated 
entirely for its beautiful blossoms, A few trees of the 
Chinese double-flowering Apple, (Pyrus spectabilis,) have 
also a beautiful effect. 

Rhus cotinus, Venetian sumach, Aaron's beard, some- 
times called fringe tree, is a fine shrub, calculated for the 
centre of the clump or shrubbery. Its large branches of 



160 FLOWTERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

liinge remaining all the Summer, give it a curious and stri- 
king effect. 

Ribes Missouriensis, or Missouri currant ; there are two 
species of this v€ry ornamental shrub from Missouri, intro- 
duced by Lewis <fc Clarke; they are quite hardy, and flower 
profusely from April to June. 

Rohinia glutinosa, and Robinia hispida ; the former a 
pretty large shrub, producing fine bunches of flowers in 
great abundance throughout the Summer; the latter is a 
smaller shrub ; both of them are, however, worthy of a place 
in large collections. 

Robinia pseudo-acacia, or Yellow Locust tree.* This is 
superior to any other kind of wood for ship-tunnels, mill- 
cogs, and fence-posts, as well as for various other purposes. 
Its culture is very easy, and may be propagated in great 
abundance, by sowing the seed in March, April, or May, in 
a bed of good sandy loam, which is its favorite soil, and 
covering half an iuch deep. Previous to sowing, put the 
seed in a basin, pour on scalding water, and let it stand all 
uight ; pick out such seeds as are swollen, and plant them 
immediately ; next evening repeat the same process with 
such as did not swell the first night, mix the whole and 
sow them ; they will come up in the course of the following 
month numerously; for no seeds grow more freely, not- 
withstanding what some say to the contrary. \Vhen the 
plants are ayear old, transplant them out of the seed bed into 
nursery rows, four feet distant, and plant from plant, one 
foot. Having two or three years' growth in these rows, 
ihey may be planted successfully in any warm and tolerably 
rich sandy ground. They may also be propagated by suck- 
ers, which they throw up abundantly, especially if some of 
file wide-extending roots be cut through with an axe. An 
acre of these trees, planted at two feet distant each way, will 
contain 10,S90 ; at four feet distant, 2,722 ; and it is said 
tiiat no appropriation of laud is more lucrative than that 
devoted to this purpose. The Three-Thorned Acacia Seed 
( Gleditsehia) should be prepared in the same manner. 

■' This tree is introduced here, rather on acccount of its usefulness 
tlian beauty, though the latter is very considerable. 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 161 

Rosa, or Roses, a very numerous variety of these; some 
reckon five or six liundred kinds. Tliey are accounted the 
most beautiful of Flora's productions. Perhaps a handsome 
collection might be made of about fifty of the best sorts, 
which, by taking such quantity, I suppose might be obtained 
at about fifty cents each, under name ; and, generally, a 
fine collection unnamed at half that amount. No good 
garden or shrubbery should be without them. 

Sorbus aucuparia, Mountain Ash, or Roan tree. This 
is a very beautiful shrub of the larger size ; the leaves are 
ornamental ; the flowers and fruit, which are produced in 
large bunches, are beautiful ; the fruit remains till late in 
the Autumn ; it is a native of Europe. 

Sorhiis Canadensis. This is a native of our Northern 
frontiers and mountains ; it does not grow so large as the 
former ; the berries are smaller and red, the former larger 
and of an orange colour, but otherwise much resemble it. 

Sjiartium jimceum, Genista, etc. Two or three species of 
Broom, producing numerous bunches of yellow flowers in 
May and June ; the Genista, or Spanish Broom, which has 
white flowers, is also very pretly, but not quite so hardy as 
the former. 

Symphoria racemosa, or Snow-berry, sometimes called 
St. Peter's wort, a pretty little shrub ; the bunches of Avax- 
like white berries, which it produces during the whole Sum- 
mer, give it a beautiful appearance. 

Si/ringa vulgaris, or common Lilac, blossoming in May, 
i well known to all, and needs no comment. The white 
variety is not quite so common — they are only used for out- 
side plantings, as they sucker very freely, and soon make 
themselves common. 

Si/ringa Persica, or Persian Lilac, is a delicate low shrub' 
tlie flowers very abundant, and the leaves small and delicate. 
There are two varieties of the Persian Lilac ; the white 
flowering, and the blue or purple flowering. 

The Chinese cut-leaved Lilac is very curious ; the leaves 
are cut like Parsley, the flowers growing in longer racemes 
than the former. 

Siberian, or large Persian Lilac. The bunches of flowers 

14* 



162 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

are very large, and continue in season a long time after the 
common Lilac. 

Tamarix GalUca, or French Tamarix, and the Tamarix 
Germanica, German Tamarix, are two pretty shrubs ; the 
leaves and branches are small and slender, producing quan- 
tities of beautiful flowers, which form a very striking contrast 
to the other part of the shrubbery. 

Viburnum opulus, or Guilder rose, otherwise called Snow- 
ball, is a very showy shrub, producing large balls of snow- 
white flowers in May ; and is indispensably necessary to 
every shrubbery. 

Vitex agnus castus, or Chaste tree, a pretty and singular 
shrub, flowering the most part of the Summer. 



CLIMBING PLANTS. 



Ampelopsis hederacea. This plant, on account of tlie 
largeness of its leaves, and rapidity of its growth, is wel' 
adapted for covering walls. There are several species, al' 
resembling the vine in habit and flower. 

Aristolochia sipho. Birthwort, or Dutchman's pipe. A 
very curious blooming plant, with extraordinary large foliage, 
well calculated for an arbour ; affording a dense and cool- 
ing shade. 

Atragene alpina. A free-growing deciduous shrub, with 
small pinnated foliage, and large blush-coloured flowers, 
which continue from May to July. 

Bignonia crucigera, is a desirable evergreen ; being of a 
luxuriant growth. It will cover in a few years an area of 
fifty feet ; and bloom from May to August ; colour orange. 

Bignonia radicans, or Truinpet creeper, produces large 
bunches of red trumpet-shaped flowers, in July and August. 
Bignonia grandijtora, is much like the former in habit 
and appearance, but the flowers are much larger. It is 
said to be a native of China, and the former a native of this 
country. They are both perfectly hardy, and will climb up 
brick work or wooden fences, without any assistance. 

Clematis, or Virgin's Bower. There are several species, 
some of them tender, or not sufficiently hardy for our severe 



CLIMBING ORNAME?«TAL SHBirBS. 163 

Winters, without protection. The Clematis azurea, bicolor 
andfiama, are splendid varieties. The Clematis Virginica, 
Viorna, Viticelli, and Vitalba, are perfectly hardy, and 
blossom throughout the Summer. 

Glycine Sinensis, or Wistaria Sinensis, is a handsome 
Chinese creeper of recent introduction, from CJiina, and is 
not yet common in our nurseries. It is a beautiful vine, 
running to a great height, and loaded with long racemes of 
purple flowers throughout the Summer. 

Glycine frutcscens^ or Wistaria frutescens. This beautiful 
brother ofthe Chinese kind, is a native of our SouthernStates, 
grows much in the same way as the others, and perhaps not 
inferior. Although this fine creeper has been long known 
in England, we have not iieard much about it by English 
writers ; the conclusion seems to be, that it does not flower 
well in England. In fact, none of our Southern plants do 
well in that country, while those from China do very well — 
here, however, it is quite the reverse. I have the Chinese 
Wistaria Sinensis, from fifteen to twenty feet high, and the 
American Wistaria about the same height. The Chinese 
does not look so vigorous and green as his American bro- 
ther. — The American Wistaria shonXd be planted in every 
garden with other creepers, or to run up the trees in shrub- 
beries, according to its natural position. 

Heclra Helix. Irish Ivy, is a desirable evergreen for 
covering naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The 
leaves are of a lively green, and from three to five ano-led. 
There are several varieties of it ; all calculated for growing 
in confined shady situations, where plants in general will 
not thrive. 

Jasminum officinale. Garden Jasmine. This delicious 
climbing shrub, has from time immemorial, been common in 
Europe for covering arbours. Its delicate white fragrant 
flowers render it very desirable ; but it is rather tender for 
our Northern Winters, unless well protected. In the South- 
ern States, this plant, and also the yellow Jasmine, revohi- 
tum, grow luxuriantly and bloom profusely, and even Jas- 
minum gratidiflora will endure the Winters of South Caro. 
lina and Georgia. 



164 CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

Lonicera, comprehending all the fine sweet-scented honey- 
suckles. Of the Italian kinds, the monthly honeysuckle is 
decidedly superior, continuing to flower all through the 
Summer, until late in Autumn, and is very fragrant. Some 
of the other European kinds may be occasionally introduced 
into large shrubberies. There is a white honeysuckle 
lately introduced from France, denominated Hedysarum 
coronarium, which is in great repute. Two or three Ameri- 
can kinds deserve particular notice. 

Lonicera semper virens,ov Coral Trumpet, monthly honey- 
suckle, is extremely beautiful, flowering the whole of the 
Summer, with its thousands of scarlet bunches ; it is, 
however, destitute of scent, 

Lonicera Fraseri, also an American : the flowers are like 
the other kind in almost every particular, except colour, 
this being a bright yellow. 

Lonicera, pubescent, or Caprifi)lium puhescens, a large 
and beautiful honeysuckle from the North-west coast ; the 
flotj'crs are large, and of a bright copper colour, inclining to 
orange — they are all perfectly hardy. 

Lonicera flexaosa — Chinese honeysuckle, of late intro- 
duction ; it is perfectly hardy, withstandingour most severe 
frosts without the least injury ; it is a very sweet-scented 
honeysuckle, grows rapidly, and to an immense height. It 
flowers in pairs and threes all up the branches, covering the 
whole plant completely with flowers. It blossoms in Spring 
and Autumn, and is a very valuable acquisition to our gar- 
dens and shrubberies. 

Lonicera Japonica, or Japan honeysuckle. This bears 
flowers in great profusion, which are white, afterwards be- 
coming of a light yellow. It is not so hardy as the 
Chinese, and requires a little protection in the Winter. 

Passiflora, or Passion Vine. There are several hardy 
species, but the best is the Passiflora incarnata ; this, al- 
though it dies to the ground every Winter, will, during the 
Summer, grow from twenty to thirty feet, and yield abun- 
dance of beautiful purple flowers. 

Periplaca grcBca, or Silk Vine. A prolific climber, wood 
slender, twining and elastic, leaves, smooth, ovate, lanceolate. 



CLIMBING ORMAMENTAL SHRUBS. 165 

Established plants will grow thirty or forty feet in one season, 
and yield flowers in clusters, of a brownish yellow colour 
from May to July. 

I shall only add to the above, the running kinds of roses- 
although there are many other things which might be men- 
tioned. 

Rosa multijlora, from China, is pretty well known, pro- 
ducing thousands of small double red roses in bunches. It 
requires a sheltered situation from some of our keen north- 
westers. Rosa mult/flora alba, from the same country, is of 
late importation, but as it increases readily, may be ob- 
tained at about the same price as the former; the bunches 
of flowers are white. Rosa Grivellis, a running rose, also 
from China, the flowers ofvarious colours. Rosa ruhifolia. 
Raspberry-leaved rose, from our Northern frontiers, and 
extending o\^er the Western country ; although a single 
flowering rose, it produces large bunches of flowers, which 
are diflferently coloured on the same bunch, exactly like the 
former China kind, and is another instance of the similarity 
of plants, natives of China, and our country. 

Rosa canina,jl. jjleno. English double dog rose, is a very 
pretty little double rose, and will run to a great height. 
Rosa BanJcsii, Lady Banks' double white China running 
rose ; it runs up and spreads much — it may be easily known 
from others of the running roses, by its being entirely des- 
titute of prickles. Rosa Noisette, and Champney's, are 
said to have been raised from China seeds in Carolina — 
they are not strictly running roses, but as they grow up tall, 
are fine ornaments for the shrubbery, flowering during the 
whole of the Summer and Autumn, in large clusters. The 
Maderia rose, or double white cluster, musk, floAvers throusrh- 
out the Summer and Autumn months, and is therefore Ave II 
adapted for the shrubbery. Rosa Cherokensis, called the 
nondescript, or Georgia rose — the flowers are very large, 
being white, with yellow centre. This is a running rose, 
growing very high around trees, &c. 

Rosa rubiginosa, or Sweetbriar, is too well known to, 
need description. 



166 
BRIEF DIRECTIONS 

FOR THE 

PROPAGATION 

OF 



Flowering shrubs are variously propagated by slips, cut- 
tings, layers, Slickers, buds or scions; and these may be thus 
defined. 

1. Slips are simply small branches, slipped down from 
the side of a large branch, or from the main stem. These 
should be taken from the parent plants, carefully, so as to 
leave an eye or heel, at the lower or but-end. 

2. Cuttings should be made from shoots or stalks of a 
prior year's growth ; and such should be selected as are well 
ripened, having their joints not far apart : they may be cut 
so as to have three or four joints in each cutting. In some 
species of succulent plants, the joints being near together, 
cuttings need not be more than from four to six inches long; 
butshrubby plants in general will admit of their being from 
ten to twelve inches. 

3. Layers differ from cuttings in nothing, except that they 
strike root into the soil, wliile yet adhering to the parent 
plant. 

4. Suckers are in reality young plants, connected to the 
parent at the root, which should be carefully separated in 
Spring or Autumn, and transplanted in the same manner as 
plants raised by any other method ; either in a Nursery bed, 
Shrubbery, or Flower border. 

5. Scions are of two sorts; scions properly so called, and 
buds. A scion is a cutting, or portion of a plant, which is 
caused to grow upon another plant, from which it attracts 
fluid for the nourishment of its leaf buds ; these thus fed, 
gradually grow upwards into branches, and send woody 
matter downwards, so as to become cormected with tlie stock 
grafted on. 



PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 167 

The business of planting slips, cuttings, &.c. of the tender 
kinds into nursery pots, and the hardy kinds into borders, is 
generally performed in Spring and Autumn ; there are, 
however, some exceptions to this rule, which will be ex- 
plained hereafter. See Calendar and Index. 

For the purpose of raising hardy flowering shrubs ^by 
slips or cuttings, let a border be prepared in a shaded and 
sheltered situation, by manuring and deep digging. Provide 
plants about a foot long, and insert them into the ground, 
full one-third of their length ; the rows may be about two 
feet apart, and the plants nine inches from each other in the 
rows. Press the ground around the stems, and rake it 
bmooth. The after management of nursery beds made in 
Spring, is to keep them watered in dry weather, also to hoe 
them occasionally, and by Autumn the plants will be rooted. 

In cold climates, plantations made in Autumn, should 
be protected by a covering of leaves, straw or litter, merely 
sufficient to screen the plants from wind and the sun's rays 
in time of freezing, the heat of ihe Sun being more destruc- 
tive to vegetation in Winter than the cold weather. 

To increase flowering shrubs, rose bushes, or any other 
plants by layers, dig the ground about the plants to be 
operated on to a good depth ; then with a sharp knife cut 
between two joints half through the stalk or branch, and turn- 
ing the edge of the knife upwards, make a slit past the first 
joint to the middle between it and the next above ; make a 
hollow in the ground and insert the cut part from one to three 
inches deep, according to the nature of the plant operated 
on, keeping the branch perpendicular, and the slit open. 
Each layer should be pegged down with a hooked stick, 
made from small branches of trees, to keep it in its proper 
position, as well as to prevent the cut part from uniting, 
whence the roots form for the young plants. 

Budding, grafting, and inarching, is often practised on 
shrubs, with u view to perpetuate improved varieties. Bud- 
ding may be performed on roses of different descriptions, as 
the White Moss, Unique, Tuscany, and other fine varieties ; 
upon such wild kinds as are of a strong habit. The best 
time for performing the operation, is towards the end of July 



!68 PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

or early in August, as the buds are then generally matured 
so that the bark parts freely from the wood, which is essen- 
tial to the successful accomplishment of the business. 

Grafting is generally performed in the Spring. There 
are many methods practised on trees, as cleft grafting, whip 
grafting, saddle grafting, side grafting, root grafting, inarch- 
ing or grafting by approach, «fec. which methods are all fully 
explained under the head of '-Budding and Grafting," in the 
fruit department. I shall, however, here present a short 
view of the mode best adapted for shrubs. 

Scallop budding is performed by cutting from a small 
stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in 
length, and taking from the chosen twig, a thin scallop of 
wood of the same dimensions : this is instantly applied, and 
fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible 
on its sides, and firmly bound with bass matting. This may 
be performed in Spring, and if it fails, it may be done again 
in the month of July. The French practise this mode on 
Roses. 

The most simple method of grafting is, to cut off the 
stock in a wedge-like manner ; then prepare one of the grafts 
with three or four eyes ; proceed to cut a slit in it upwards, 
and thrust it on the stock, taking care to join the bark of each 
together; tie them firmly together with bass, and immediately 
cover the grafted part with clay and horse dung mixed ; 
which being well prepared, should be closed securely round 
the graft in an oval form. 

Inarching, or grafting by approach may be thus performed. 
The shrubs to be grafted must be growing very near to those 
which are to furnish the grafts ; a branch of each must 
then be prepared by making a long sloping cut nearly to its 
centre ; the twain must be brought together, and secured 
by a bandage of matting, so that the bark may meet as 
nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay 
composition % and when a complete union has taken place, 
the plants may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting 
off belovv the junction. 

As the above directions are applicable to the propagation, 
and management of Greenhouse tender, and half hardy 



PROPAGATION Ot ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 169 

plants, as well as to hardj shrubs and vines ; it may be ne- 
cessary here to remind the reader, that delicate roses and 
half-hardy woody plants left out during- the Winter, should be 
protected either by bending down the branches and covering 
them with soil, or by tying them up to stakes, and binding 
straw snugly around them. At the same time throw some 
dung on the ground about the roots ; the longest of which 
may be raked off on the approach of Spring, and the shortest 
foi'kedin, so as to manure the plants, and thus give vigour 
to their rising shoots. 

Deciduous shrubs may be transplanted at any time after 
they lose their leaves, and before the buds begin to expand in 
Spring, provided the ground can be brought into good con- 
dition to receive them ; the holes should be dug capacious 
enough to hold the roots without cramping them, and some 
earth, well pulverized, must be thrown equally among the 
fibres of the roots, which should be well shaken, and the 
earth trodden down around the plants, until brought to the 
level required. Evergreens should be removed carefully 
with a ball of earth connected with their roots, and some 
good mould should be provided to fill in with. 

The Spring pruning of shrubs and vines should be attended 
to before the buds begin to rise ; say March in the Northern 
States, and January in the South. In performing this busi- 
ness, use a sharp knife, in order that all amputations and 
wounds be cut and pared smooth, and in a slanting manner. 
Divest the plants of all dead wood, superfluous branches, and 
those which cross each other. Regulate the plantation in 
such manner, that the natural form and habit of each plant 
be retained as much as possible, and train the branches so 
that the Sun can have free access to every part ; bearing in 
mind the hints thrown out in the introduction to our Cata- 
logue. Some shrubs and vines will need a Summer pruning, 
merely to thin out young shoots, superfluous wood, &c. and 
to train straggling branches. 



15 



170 

THE 

BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 



-.1 



The following article is submitted, as being well calcu- 
lated to afford amateurs mental recreation, while engaged 
in rural pursuits ; and it is presumed that the practical 
gardener will not view the insertion of this article as a 
digression, as it exhibits the beauty and order of the flowery 
tribe in propitious climates, or when cultivated at the proper 
season, in a truly appropriate and amusing light, 

APRIL. 

"Descend, sweet April, from yon watery bow, 
And liberal strew the ground with budding flowers, 
With leafless Crocus, leaf-veiled Violet, 
Auricula, with powdered cup. Primrose 
That loves to lurk below the Hawthorn shade.'' 

It is generally admitted, that the month of April gives the 
most perfect image of Spring; for its vicissitudes of warm 
gleams of sunshine and gentle showers, have the most pow- 
erful effect in hastening the universal springing of the vege- 
table tribes, from whence the season derives its appellation. 
Next comes the favourite month of the year, in poetical 
description, 

MAT. 

''For thee, sweet month, the groves green liv'ries wear; 
If not the first, the fairest in the year ; 
Thou dost aff'ord us many pleasant hours, 
"While Nature's ready pencil paints the flowers.'' 

The pious Hervey, in his Meditations on the Flower Gar- 
den, has furnished us many sublime ideas respecting the 
order, variety, and besauty of the flowery tribe.* It is in 



*Those who have read Hervey's Meditations on the Flower Garden, 
will discover that the pious author's phraseology, and several of his 
sublime ideas, are interspersed through this article, which, from being 
blended with other matter, could not be designated in the customary way. 



THfi BIAUTIBS OF APRIL AND MAY, 171 

vain to attempt a catalogue of those amiable gifts. There 
is an endless multiplicity in their characters, yet an inva- 
riable order in their approaches. Every month, almost every 
week, has its peculiar ornaments ; not servilely copying the 
works of its predecessors, but forming, still forming, and 
still executing, some new design ; so lavish is the fancy, yet 
so exact is the process of Nature. Were all the flowery 
tribe to exhibit themselves at one particular season, there 
would be at once a promiscuous throng, and at once a total 
privation. 

We should scarcely have an opportunity of adverting to 
the dainty qualities of half, and must soon lose the agreeable 
company of them all. But now, since every species has a 
separate postto occupy, and a distinct interval for appearing, 
we can take a leisurely and minute survey of each succeed- 
ing set. We can view and review their forms, enter into . 
more intimate acquaintance with their charming accom- 
plishments, and receive all those pleasing sensations which 
they are calculated to yield. 

Before the trees have ventured to unfold their leaves, and 
while the icicles are pendant on our houses, the Snow-drop 
breaks her way through IJhe frozen soil, fearless of danger. 
Next peeps out the Crocus, but cautiously and wilh an air 
of timidity. She shuns the howling blasts, and cleaves 
closely to her humble situation. Nor is the Violet last in 
the shining embassy, which, with all the embellishments 
that would grace a royal garden, condescends to line our 
borders, and bloom at the feet of briars. Freely she distri- 
butes the bounty of her emissive sweets, while herself retires 
from sight, seeking rather to administer pleasure than to 
win admiration. Emblem, expressive emblem, of those 
modest virtues which delight to bloom in obscurity. There 
are several kinds of Violets, but the fragrant, both blue and 
wliite, are the earliest. Shakspeare compares an exquisitely 
sweet strain of music to the delicious scent of this flower : 



"Oh f it came o'er my ear like the sweet South, 
That breathes upon a bank of Violets, 
Stealing and giving odour." 



172 



THE BEAUTIES OF APP.IL AND MAY. 



Tiie pious Hervey, in his admonitions to tliose who 
indulge in sloth, has thrown out the following sublime ideas: 
What sweets are those which so agreeably salute my nos- 
trils ? They are the breath of tlie flowers, the incense ol 
the gardens. How liberally does the Jasmine dispense her 
odoriferous riches ! How deliciously has (he Woodbine 
embalmed this morning walk ! The air irf all perfume. 
And is not this another most engaging arguruent to forsake 
the bed of sloth 1 Who would be involved in senseless 
slumbers, while so many breathing sweets invite him to a 
feast of fragrancy — especially considering that the advan- 
cing day will exliale the volatile dainties? A fugitive treat 
they are, prepared only for the wakeful and industrious- 
Whereas, when the sluggard lifts his heavy eyes, the flowers 
will droop, their fine sweets be dissipated, and instead of 
this refreshing humidity, the air will become a kind of liquid 
Are." 

With this very motive, heightened by a representation of 
the most charming pieces of morning scenery, the parent of 
mankind awakes his lovely consort. There is such a deli- 
cacy in the choice, and so much life in the description of 
these rural images, that I cannot excuse myself without 
repeating the whole passage. Whisper it, some friendly 
genius, in the ear of every one, who is now sunk in sleep, 
and lost to all these refined gratifications ! 

" Awake ! the nioniing shines, and the fresh fiekl 
CiiUe you : ye lose the prime, to mark how spring 
The tended plants, how blows the Citron grove ; 
What drops the Myrrh, and what the balmy Reed ; 
" How Nature jiaints her colours; how the bee 
Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets." 

How delightful is this fragrance ! It is distributed in 
the nicest proportion ; neither so strong as to oppress the 
organs, nor so faint as to elude them. We are soon cloyed 
at a sumptuous banquet ; but this pleasure never loses its 
poignancy, never palls the appetite. Here luxury itself is 
innocence ; or rather in this case, indulgence is incapable of 
excess. This balmy entertainment not only regales the 



THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 713 

sense, but cheers the very soul ; and, instead of clogging, 
elates its powers. 

" The soft green grass is growing 

O'er meadow and o'er dale ; 
The silvery founts are flowing 

Upon the verdant vale ; 
The pale Snow-drop is springing ■ -; 

To greet the glowingSun ; 
The Primrose sweet is flinging 

Perfume the fields along ; 
The trees are in their blossom, 

The birds are in their song ; 
As Spring upon the bosom 

Of Nature's borne along," 

"So the dawn of human life 
Doth green and verdant spring: 
It doth little ween the strife — 
Like the Snow-drop it is fair, 

And lik« the Primrose sweet, 
But its innocence can't scare 
The Wight from its retreat." 

Our subject is so enchanting, that we had inadvertently 
wandered from the path we first entered. We now retrace 
our steps, and take a glance at surrounding objects. The 
fields look green with the springing grass. See the Daffodil 
how it spreads itself to the wind ! The leaves of Honey- 
suckles begin to expand, and Lilacs, or Syringas, of various 
hues, unfold their buds. The Almond exhibits its rosy 
clusters, and the Corchorus its golden balls. Many of the 
lowlier plants exhibit their yellow and purple colours, and 
the buds of Lilies, and other Perennial plants, {)repare 
to show themselves. If we turn our attention to the orchard, 
we behold the Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches, lead the 
way in blossoming, which are followed by the Cherry and 
the Plum. These form a most agreeable spectacle, as well 
on account of their beauty as of the promise they give of 
future benefits. It is. however, an anxious time for the 
possessor, as the fairest prospect of a plentiful increase 
is often blighted. Shakspeare draws a pathetic comparison 

15* 



174 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAT. 

from this circumstance, of the delusive nature of human 
expectations : 

" This is the state of man ; to-day he puts forth 
The tender leaves of hope; to-morrow blossoms, 
And bears his blushing honors thick upon him ; 
The third day comes a frost, a Idlling frost, 
And nips his root." 

But we now return to the garden. Before we have time 
to explore Nature's treasures, many disappear ; among these 
are the humble Daisy, which shrinks from the intense heat, 
and the several varieties of Primulas or early spring flowers. 
The various grades of Polyanthus deserve a close inspec- 
tion ; these, for a while, exhibit their sparkling beauties, but 
alas ! soon disappear. Scarcely have we sustained this loss, 
but in comes the Auricula, and more than retrieves it. Ar- 
rayed she comes in a splendid variety of amiable forms, 
with an eye of crystal, and garments of the most glossy 
satin. A very distinguished procession this ! The favorite 
care of the florist, but these also soon disappear. Who 
could forbear grieving at their departure, did not the various 
sorts of bulbous flowers burst their bands asunder, or rather 
expand so as to exhibit their fragrance and beauty. 

"Fair-handed Spring 
Throws out the Snow-drop and the Crocus first, 
The Daisy, Primrose, Violet darkly blue, 
And Polyanthus with unumbered dyes. 
Then comes the Auricula, enriched with shining meal, 
O'er all their velvet leaves." 

While we reluctantly dispense with the sweet perfumes of 
the Hyacinth and Narcissus, we behold the Tulips begin to 
raise themselves on their fine wands or sfetely stalks. They 
flush the parterre with one of the gayest dresses that bloom- 
ing Nature wears. Here one may behold the innocent 
wantonness of beauty. Here she indulges a thousand freaks, 
and sports herself in the most charming diversity of colours. 
In a grove of Tulips, or a bed of Pinks, one perceives a 
difference in almost every individual. Scarcely any two 



THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL JiND MAT. 175 

are turned and tinted exactly alike. What colours, what 
colours are here ! these so nobly bold, and those so deli- 
cately languid! 

What a glow is enkindled in some ! what a gloss shines 
upon others! With what a masterly skill is every one of 
the varying tints disposed ! Here they seem to be thrown 
on with an easy dash of security and freedom ; there they 
are adjusted by the nicest touches of art and accuracy. 
Those colours which form the ground are always so judi- 
ciously chosen, as to heighten the lustre of the superadded 
figures ; while the verdure of the impalement, or shadings 
of the foliage, impart new liveliness to the whole. Fine, 
inimitably fine, is the texture of the web on which these 
shining treasures are displayed. What are the labours of 
the Persian looms ; what all the gay attire which the shuttle 
or the needle can furnish, compared with Nature's works'? 
One cannot forbear reflection in this place, on the too pre- 
vailing humour of being fond and ostentatious of dress. 
What an abject and mistaken ambition is this ! How un- 
worthy the dignity of man, and the wisdom of rational 
beings ! Especially since these little productions of the 
earth have indisj^utably the pre-eminence in such outward 
embellishments. 

"Bright TULIPS, we do know, 

Ye had your coming hither, 
And fading time doth show, 

That ye must quickly wither; 

Your sisterhood may stay, 

And smile here for an hour, 
But ye must quickly die away. 

E'en as the meanest flower. 

Come virgins, then, and see 

Your frailties, and bemoan ye ; 
For lost hke these, — "twill be 

As time had never known ye." 

But let us not forget the fragrant, the very fragrant Wall 
and Gilli-flowers ; some of these regale us with their per- 



176 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 

fumes through various vicissitudes and alternations of the 
season, while others make a transient visit only. 

" I love thee, lone and pensive flower, 

Because thou dost not flaunt thy bloom 
In pleasure's gay and garnish'd bower, 

Or luxury's proud banquet room ; 
But on the silent mouldering wall 

Thy ehnging leaves a fragrance shed, 
Or give to the deserted hall 

A relic of its glories fli^d. 

These wreaths, in vivid freshness bright, 

Methinks the fluttering herd portray, 
Who bask on fortune's golden light, 

And wanton in her joyous way ; 
But thou art like that gentle love, 

Which blooms when friends and fame have pass'd, 
Towers the dark wreck of hope above. 

And smiles through ruin to the last." 

In favoured climates arises the Anemone, encircled at 
the bottom with a spreading robe, and rounded at the top 
into a beautiful dome. In its loosely-flowing mantle, you 
may observe a noble negligence ; in its gently-bending tufis 
the nicest symmetry. This may be termed the fine gentle- 
man of the garden, because it seems to possess the mean? 
of uniting simplicity and refinement, of reconciling art and 
ease. The same month has the merit of producing the 
Ranunculus. All bold and graceful, it expands the riches 
of its foliage, and acquires by degrees the loveliest enamel 
in the vrorld. As persons of intrinsic worth disdain the 
superficial arts of recommendation practised by fops, so this 
lordly flower scorns to borrow any of its excellencies from 
powders and essences. It needs no such attractions to 
render it the darling of the curious, being suflSiciently enga- 
ging from the elegance of its figure, the radiant variety of its 
tinges, and a certain superior dignity of aspect. 

JUNE. 

" Now have young April, and the blue-eyed May, 
Vanished awhile, and lo ! the glorious June 
(While Nature ripens in his burning noon,) 
Comes like a young inheritor." 



THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAT. 177 

1 had intended to confine our meditations to the beauties 
of April and May, but Nature seems to improve in her 
operations. Her latest strokes are the most masterly. To 
crown the collection, she introduces the Carnation, which 
captivates our eyes with a noble spread of graces, and 
charms another sense with a profusion of exquisite odours. 
This single flower has centered in itself the perfection of all 
the preceding. The moment it appears, it so commands 
our attention, that we scarcely regret the absence of the rest. 

"Maternal Flora, with benignant hand, 
Her flowers profusely scatters o'er the land : 
These deck the vallies with unnuuiber'd hues, 
And far around their pregnant sweets diffuse; 
The broad carnations, gay and spotted Pinks, 
Are shower d profuse along the rivers' brinks." 

The field we have entered is so extensive and so enchant- 
ing, that we cannot extricate ourselves, without taking a 
cursory glance at the airs and habits, the attitude and linea- 
ments, of each distinct class. See the Paeonia of China j 
splendid and beautifully grand! View the charmhig Rose, 
delicate and langui shingly fair! and while you inhale its 
balmy sweetness, you will be constrained to admire it, not- 
withstanding its thorny appendages. 

" Rose ! thou'art the sweetest flower 
That ever drank the amber shower ; 
Rose ! thou art the fondest child 
Of dimpled Spring! the wood-nymph wild ! 
Resplendant Rose ! the flower of flowers. 
Whose breath xierfumes Olympus' bowers ; 
Whose virgin blush, of chasten'd dye, 
Enchants so much our mental eye." 

B ehold all the pomp and glory of the parterre, where 
Nature's paint and perfume do wonders. Some rear their 
heads as with a majestic mien, and overlook, like sovereigns 
or nobles, the whole parterre. Others seem more modest 
in their aims, and advance only to the middle stations ; a 
genius turned for heraldry might term them the gentry of 



178 THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAT. 

the border ; while others, free from all aspiring airs, creep 
unambitiously on the ground, and look like the commonalty 
of the kind. Some are intersected with elegant stripes, or 
studded with radiant spots. Some affect to be genteelly 
powdered, or neatly fringed ; while others are plain in their 
aspect, unaffected in their dress, and content to please with 
a naked simplicity. Some assume the monarch's purple ; 
some look most becoming in the virgin's white ; but black, 
doleful black, has no admittance into the wardrobe of Spring. 
The weeds of mourning Avould be a manifest indecorum, 
when Nature holds an universal festival. She would now 
inspire none but delightful ideas, and therefore always makes 
her appearance in some amiable suit. Here stands a war- 
rior clad with crimson ; there sits a magistrate robed in 
scarlet ; and yonder strusts a pretty fellow, that seems to 
have dipped his plumes in the rainbow, and glitters in all 
the gay colours of that resplendent arch. Some rise into a 
curious cup, or fall into a set of beautiful bells. Others spread 
themselves in a swelling tuft, or crowd •into a delicious 
cluster. In some the predominant stain softens by the 
gentlest diminutions, till it has even stolen away from itself 
The eye is amused at the agreeable delusion, and we wonder 
to find ourselves insensibly decoyed into quite a different 
lustre. In others one would think the fine tinges were 
emulous of pre-eminence ; disdaining to mingle, they con- 
front one another with the resolution of rivals, determined 
to dispute the prize of beauty; while each is improved, by the 
opposition, into the highest vivacity of complexion. 

"Mrs. PsEony came in quite late in a heat, 

With the Ice-plant, dew-spangled from forehead to feet ; 

Lobelia, attired like a queen in her pride, 

And Dahlias, with trimmings new furbish"d and dyed, 
And the Blue-bells, and Hare-bells in simple array, 
With all their Scotch cousins from highland and brae, 
Ragged Ladies and Marigolds clustered together, 
And gossip'd of scandal, the news, and the weather ; 
What dresses were worn at the wedding so fine 
Of sharp Mrs. Thistle, and sweet Columbine." 



179 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE 

CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED 

PLANTS. 



These plants exhibit a striking variety of the beauties of 
Nature. It would seem as if every change she was capable 
of forming, was included in the radiant colours of the Tulip. 
Never was a cup either painted or enamelled with such a 
profusion of tints. Its stripes are so glowing, its contrasts 
so strong, and the arrangement of them both so elegant and 
artful, that it may, with propriety, be denominated the 
reigning beauty of the garden in its season. The Hyacinth 
is also an estimable flower for its blooming complexion, as 
well as for its most agreeable perfume and variety. 

"The Hyacinth, purple, white, aud blue. 
Which flung from its bells a sweet peal anew, 
Of music so delicate, soft, intense;, 
It was felt like an odour within the sense." 

The Double Dahlia, in its numerous varieties, is incon- 
ceivably splendid. It is only about forty years since the 
first of these, which was single, was introduced into Europe 
from Mexico. 

Double Dahlias of three colours, were first known in the 
year 1802, since that time the varieties have so increased, 
that such as a few years ago were considered beautiful, are 
now thrown away to give place to the more splendid sorts. 
I have good authority for stating, that upwards of twenty 
thousand seedlings are raised yearly in England, only a 
few of which are introduced into the collections of amateurs, 
to take the place of such old sorts as may from time to time 
be rejected. This is done, in order that none but the very 
choicest be retained in such collections. 

In some gardens in Holland they cultivate^ by distinct 
names, about eleven hundred varieties of Tulips, thirteen 



l80 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

hundred of Hyacinths, and six hundred of Ranunculuses 
and Anemones, some of which are sold as high as sixty 
dollars the single root. It is stated in the travels of Mr. 
Dutens, of his having known ten thousand florins, equal to 
$4000, refused for a single Hyacinth ; and Dodsley says, 
in his Annual Register for 1765, that the Dutch of all 
ranks, from the greatest to the meanest, during the years 
from 1634 to 1637 inclusive, neglected their business to en- 
gage in the Tulip trade. Accordingly in those days, the 
Viceroy was sold for £250, the Admiral Lief keens £440, 
and Semper Augustus at from £500 to £1000 each ; and 
also that a collection of Tulips was sold by the exacutors of 
one Wouter Broekholsmentser for £9000. It is stated that 
in one city in Holland, in the space of three years, they had 
traded for a million sterling in Tulips. 

As a full catalogue of all the varieties of bulbous and 
tuberous-rooted plants would occupy a number of pages, 
without affording much general interest, I shall content 
myself by devoting a short paragraph in describing some of 
each particular species, which will be accompanied with 
directions for their culture, in a brief, and, at the same time, 
explicit manner. 

It may be here necessary to define the difference between 
bulbous and tuberous roots. Those designated bulbous, 
have skins similar to Onions, or the Allium tribe; and tuber- 
ous roots imply all such as produce tubers something similar 
to Potatoes. 

The soil for bulbous and tuberous roots in general should 
be light and yet capable of retaining moisture, not such as 
is liable to become bound up by heat, or that in consequence 
of too large a portion of sand, is liUiely to become violently 
hot in Summer ; but a medium earth between the two ex- 
tremes. As many city gardens do not contain a natural 
soil of any depth, a suitable compost should be provided in 
such cases, which tnay consist of equal parts of sand, loam, 
rotten manure, mould, &.c. 

When ready, the beds may be laid out, from three to four 
feet wide, and they should be raised two or three inches 
above the level of the walks, which will give an opportunity 



BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. l8l 

for all superfluous moisture to run off. Let the beds thus 
formed be pulverized to the depth of fifteen or eighteen 
inches; and at the time of planting, let a small quantity of 
beach sand be strewed in the apertures or trenches, prepared 
for the roots to grow in, both before and after placing them, 
which will prove beneficial. 

A Southern exposure, dry and airy, and sheltered from 
the north-west winds, is preferable for most bulbs. But 
Anemones and Ranunculuses should be in some measure 
sheltered from the intense heat of noon. 

Beds of hardy bulbous and tuberous roots should be 
covered on the approach of Winter with litter, leaves, straw, 
or such earth as is formed by the decay of leaves, to the 
depth of two or three inches, as it prevents any ill effects 
which a severe season may have on the roots ; but it should 
be carefully raked off" again in the Spring, 

Bulbous roots in general should be taken up in about a 
month or six weeks after the bloom is exhausted; the foliage 
or leaves then turn yellow. If fins warm weather, the bulbs 
may be dried on the beds they grew on, by placing them in 
separate rows, being cai'eful not to mix the several varieties 
together. To prevent such an accident, labels may be 
affixed to, or placed in the ground opposite each bulb — 
they will keup much better for being dried gradually ; to 
this end, a little dry earth may be shaken over them, to 
screen them from the heat of the sun. If it should rain 
before they get dry, take them in, or cover them with 
boards ; when dry, clear them of the fibres and stems, and 
then put them away in dry sand ; or wrapped in paper, they 
may be kept in boxes or drawers until the season of planting 
again returns. 

The tender Tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, and the 
like, will have to be taken up before the cold becomes se- 
vere. As the Dahlia exhibits its flowers in all their splen- 
dour until nipped by the frost, the roots ought, in the event 
of a very sudden attack, to be secured from its blighting 
effects. They are not apt to keep well, if taken up 
before they are ripened ; the tops should therefore, be cut 
down as soon as they have done flowering, and the ground 

1(3 



182 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

covered around the roots, with dung or litter ; this will 
enable them to ripen without being injured by frost; and in 
about a week after being cut down, or on appearance of 
severe weather, they should be dug up and packed in dry 
sand, and then stowed away in a dry place out of the reach 
of frost. The temperature suited to keep greenhouse plants 
will preserve them in good order. Some people complain 
of the difficulty of keeping Dahlia roots through the Winter. 
I am of opinion that they are often killed from being taken 
up before they are ripe, and then put in a confined damp 
place ; or ai-e by some, perhaps, subjected to the other ex- 
treme, and dried to a husk. I keep mine on shelves in the 
greenhouse, and seldom lose one in a hundred. Ifitbean 
object with the cultivator to have the names perpetuated from 
year to year, each plant should have a small label affixed to 
the old stalk, by means of small brass or copper wire, as 
twine is very apt to get rotten. 

Cape Bulbs, and such tuberous roots as are cultivated in 
pots, on account of their tenderness, should be kept dry 
after the foliage is decayed, until within about a month of 
their period of regerminating, at which time they should, after 
having been deprived of their surplus offsets, be repotted in 
good fre«h earth. 

There are some descriptions of bulbous and tuberous 
roots that need not be taken up oftener than once in two or 
three years, and then only to deprive them of the young 
offsets, and to manure the ground. These will be described 
hereafter under their different heads. 

In the articles which follow, I have named the preferable 
season for planting the various kinds of bulbous and tuberous 
roots ; but as some bulbs will keep in good condition several 
months, there can be no objection to retaining such out of 
the grouutl, to suit any particular purpose or convenience. 



183 
DIRECTIONS 

FOR THE 

CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED 



PLANTS. 



AMARYLLISES. , 

Of this genus of flowering bulbs, there are about eighty- 
species, and upwards of one hundred varieties ; they are 
natives of South America, and in Europe are generally- 
kept in the hot-house ; some of the varieties are hybrids, 
produced by cultivation ; these succeed very well in the 
greenhouse, and in this country we frequently have very 
perfect flowers in the borders. A few of the choicest 
varieties are as follows : 

Amaryllis Aulica, or Crowned Amaryllis, is one of the 
most beautiful ; it produces four flowers, about seven inches 
in diameter, on an erect stem, about two feet and a half 
high, with six petals of green, crimson, and fine transparent 
red colours. 

A. Ballots, produces three or four rich scarlet flowers 
on the stem, each about five inches in diameter ; there are 
two or three varieties of this species, all beautiful. 

A. Johnsoniensis. The stem of this variety rise^ about 
two feet, and exhibits four beautiful scarlet flowers, with a 
white streak in the centre of each petal, each flower about 
six inches diameter. It sometimes produce two stems. 

A. Longifolia, or Crinum Capense, is perfectly hardy ; it 
flowers in large umbels of a pink colour, inclining to white, 
and is a good garden variety. 

Amaryllis for mo sissima, or Jacobean Lily, produces a 
flower of great beauty ; although a low-priced plant, it 
throws out gracefully its glittering crimson-coloured petals, 
which have a brilliancy almost too intense for the eye to rest 
upon. 

The A. Lutea, produces its briglijt yellow flowers in 



184 



ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES. 



October, in the open air ; but the bulb requires a little pro- 
tection in the Winter, or it may perish. 

The most suitable soil for Amaryllises is a clean new 
earth, taken from under fresh grass sods, mixed with sand 
and leaf mould ; the latter ingredient should form about a 
third of the whole, and the sand about a sixth. Some of the 
varieties may be planted in pots during the month of April, 
Hud others will do very well in the open ground, if planted 
early in May, in a sunny situation. The bulb should not 
be set more than half its depth in the ground ; as, if planted 
too deep, it will not bloom ; the plant deriving its nourish- 
ment only from the fibres. When the bulbs have done 
Howering, such as are in pots should be watered very 
.sparingly, so that ihey may be perfectly ripened, which will 
cause them to shoot stronger in the ensuing season, and 
those in the ground should be taken up, and preserved 
in sand or paper. 



ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES. 

These are medium, or half-hardy roots, producing beau- 
tiful little flowers of various hues, and are highly deserving 
of cultivation. The bulbs should be planted in a fresh, well 
pulverized, loamy so;!, enriched with cow dung. If planted 
m the garden, the beds ought not to be raised above one inch 
higher than the alleys, and the surface should be level, as it 
is necessary for the prosperity of these plants, rather to 
retain than to throw off moisture. The plants will generally 
.Mirvive our Winters ; but it is always safest to plant them in 
fcuch a manner that a temporary frame of boards can be 
|)laced over them when the weather sets in severe ; and if 
{.'jey are to be shaded while in flower, the posts intended for 
the awning may be fixed in the ground at the same time ; 
fhese will serve to nail the boards to, and thus answer two 
purposes. 

Anemones and Rajittnculnses may be planted during 
October or November, in drills two inches deep, and six 
inches apart ; the roots should be placed claws downwards, 



CROCUSES AND CROWN IMPERIAL. 18S 

about four inches distant from each other, and covered up, 
leaving the bed quite level. The awning need not be 
erected over the beds until they come into bud, which will 
be early in May ; the extreme heat of the American climate 
is, however, unfavourable to the perfect developement of 
their beautiful blossoms in ordinary seasons, even when 
shaded. 



CROCUSES. 

These are hardy little bulbs, said to be natives of 
Switzerland. There are in all about fifty varieties of this 
humble, yet beautiful plant, embracing a great variety 
of hues and complexions, and their hardiness, and earliness 
in flower, offer a strong motive for their cultivation. The 
bulbs may be planted in October or November, in rows 
about six inches from the edgings ; if in beds, they may be 
placed in ranks of distinct colours, about four inches apart, 
and from one to two deep, which will afford to their admirers 
considerable amusement and gratification, and that at a 
very early season. They are generally in full perfection 
early in April 



CROWN IMPERIAL. 

This is a species of the genus Fritillaria, of which there 
are about twenty species and varieties, chiefly natives of 
Persia. These squamose bulbs produce tall luxuriant stems, 
embellished with green glossy foliage, and flowers of various 
hues ; but there are only a few of the most curious cultivated, 
perhaps on account of their odour, which to some persons 
is disagreeable. They are, however, very hardy, and 
produce singular and showy flowers in April and May, 
suited to make variety in the flower borders, in which they 
may be planted in August and September, from three to 
four inches deep ; they need not be taken up every year ag 
other bulbs, and when they are, which may be about every 

16* 



186 COLCHICCM, CYCLAMEN AND DOUBLE DAHLIA, 

third year, they ought not to be retained too long out of the 
ground before they are again replanted. 



COLCHICUM. 

This curious little bulb, being planted in the month 
of June, about two inches deep, produces its flowers in 
October, it then dies, without leaving any external ap- 
pearance of seeds ; they, however, lie buried in the bulb all 
the Winter, and in Spring produce a stalk with seeds, which 
get ripe by the first of June, just in time to plant for flowering 
in the ensuing Autumn. How wonderful are the provisione 
of nature ! 



CYCLAMEN. 

There are several species of the Persian Cyclamen which 
are worthy of cultivation in pots ; the vareties, Coum and 
Persicum, will bloom in a greenhouse, or warm room, from 
January to April, if planted in a good light compost early 
in September. The foliage of these plants is of a dark 
^reen velvet colour; and the flowers of the variety Coum 
are of a dark crimson colour ; those of the variety Persicum 
are of a delicate French white, tipped with pink, and their 
fragrance is similar to that of the wild rose. 



DOUBLE DAHLIA. 

This may with propriety be denominated one of the most 
important perennial tuberous-rooted plants that can be 
introduced into a garden, and from the circumstance of its 
liavino- become so fashionable of late years, I have felt 
anxious to furnish in this work, a catalogue of all the 
choicest varieties attainable ; I therefore applied to Mr. G. 
C. Thorburn, who.froai a regular correspondence with con- 
noisseurs, both in England and America, becomes acquainted 



DOUBLE DAHLIA I 87 

with all the most beautiful and rare varieties. He has 
kindly furnished a list and description of about one hun- 
dred; including the choicest seedlings of 1838 an J 1S39, 
which will be cultivated for the first time in America, in his 
garden at Astoria, 1840 ; plants from which will be for sale at 
No. 11 John street. To these I have added about two hun- 
dred and fifty varieties, most of which I have had under 
cultivation in my own garden, and whith mdy be justly 
denominated pre-eminent. 

In making this selection, several superb varieties are 
omitted, not because they are undervalued, but for the .sake 
of brevity, which in a work of this kind must be consulted. 
Those marked thus t are native American varieties. Those 
marked thus * obtained the greatest number of premiums 
at the various Floricultural and Horticultural exhibitions in 
Great Britain, as well as in our own country. There arc, 
perhaps, a hundred more in this catalogue not far beneatl* 
them, but none are marked except those which from having 
been tested in this climate, can with confidence be recom- 
mended as being free and perfect bloomers. The choicest 
seedlings of 1833 and 9, and which have been purchased in 
England at from fifteen shillings to five pounds sterling each, 
are marked thus §. It may be necessary to observe, that 
many of our choice old varieties, as well as several of the 
new ones hereinafter described, have not been offered in com- 
petition at public exhibitions ; these are, therefore, not to be 
undervalued for want of the star or asterisk, and it is pre- 
sumed that the brief description given of the different shades, 
will be sufficient to govern amateurs in their choice. 

As much depends on the climate, soil and situation in which 
Dahlias are cultivated ; and as the descriptions which follow 
have been given by various persons, in different parts of 
England as well as America, whose soils and situations are 
diffV;rent, the height of these plants may vary a foot or more 
from our estimate, when planted in one uniform soil and 
situatiorf. 



188 
CATALOGUE 



t l>»i\ot»« Am»ii.-«« ,<ir«.Ulntt. * »»♦ n\nrm»i'*' i N«» V«rU((M, 

Adft Dv n>«, i«l\nilo«t voxo, .... 



A^-!uniM\\t\on, ( HV^MrtW's, ) lu-h viiln .otiniKon. a t?«p Mooiwov r» to 



•J A\Ui\ r.lo^'rtnn, )>(no whiio, t>lo{i,\)\l !»l»i>|»0(l rtowor 
« AUm«>|>o, ( <»»»7»«jSjV.) 'i<u> »«»») purpl«> 
Al|>l\», (^.S«w»»rtM</\<f,') lino isOi\vlo< oiimxon 
Anjiv>l«»iV. \vl\i(o. hoiuHi(\illy oil<io«l with lilar 
V A»li<>pi»> ( (WfV. ) Wi\\\U{\\\\\\M\ lino n\\(\\H> 

• A\>»>llo, ( W>V/«<?/r.v\ ) lino (IwKnortiloi, onpjioii |»otiU 

• Aviol, ^fti»'V>«v/*.«.'^ «l\iti\ «><tjj:ivl wilh Iil;t0 

• A«tH>Vrt. <, .MrtN^fVO WhilO, !«(li|10»l \\\\\\ 01 ilUv.Mi 

« UrtMks of tho Ty««», viviii j«o«vM 
lUu^o Uivrti. hrigJw yolU>\v> K-\vjro tlow^r 

• U«>MUy. vRtv>»<'»V,\o\n\ni«ilo liinc . . 
U<>««l^V or Urttl<> ^^ Urtt-^/o/fV.^ |>»n plo {U\(i o<o;\\\> striped 

• ■ ot' Ho«1fov<i. !«l\«iloti iuupio> (y\\<\ ovin»son 

I 'I" or<\nnl^ov\v«U, tAvsy lil«o, a tVoo-Moomov 
— — ' iM'Coviuv«)l.pnvpi(Mippo.l «ill< \vl\ilo 

' i>r l>ui\viol»> yoUow, »\»onlo.i with hwwn ( « 
% >— i— orUyOo \ jUo. t«rtn^ott. stripod with lilrto 

• •— « orKi«j!:i»ooto. whilo, tippod with orimsoM - 

I' -^ olT\<H<>v,fi''trt<u\i?atk pnoo, IrtrjCT^ t\o\vof 

• -■— ■■ oftho North, ( iMhy^n,) oupovh putplo 

• «— ^ «f Tovvy Uiil> t«i»ttJod f\wo rtndhhtsh 

S I of 8rt\om, whito, titttoU with u\sy \>i«ik 

• ■■■ of \V*to\tovd> oar^^atioM stvip^^l 

% oftho\VostUi(h«V|t (f'MnsV Vav«>i«o. ovauso nionU' 

• IWi-kshiiv <M»awpio»,oiu»so« matvfin, j:<olM.iar shap« 

• Uiattoa, ( l,«>«'»»W,v .v.) whitxv >j>>o,| tV>n« 

n>n»«»vih«m Xiotwt, ( /^<v^^<«\v,^titto on»«»on. otippoxl potals 
t Ub«<lt»'\.^'«o«i whuo 

• Uot\ti<ha\K datk «tan>o« 

• l^iNwhix/i *\ix'ot\ K>\al. ilavk vnl>y. ot»)>p«Ni potals 

• ttndp vvt~ AhN>ioji, w hUo. !:vMt\ctunrs tant^d w ith purpl* 



IIKKillT 
IN f'tkT. 

4 JO 6 

4 to 5 

4 to ft 

4 to ^ 

4 to 5 



4 to ^ 

4 to ^ 

() to 8 

4 to f> 

5 to 6 

4 to n 

4 to r> 

4 to r> 

< to ft 

4 to 5 

^ to 6 

4 to ft 

4 to ft 

4 to ft 

ft to (> 

(» to vS 

ft to 6 

4 to ft 

5 to 4 
4 to ft 
4 to ft 
ft to 6 
4 to ft 
4 tt> ft 
4 to ft 
4 tx> 5 
4 to ft 
4 tfl ft 
:^ to 4 
.N t« t> 
ft to 6 
ft t* 6 



PAIILfA OATAM)(JI/R. I^t' 

t II !•• AmtrlMii Nm()|I»o. * |r>» Ul<>"ii«<r>. ^ N«w V»I>)Im. IlKKlMT 

iJriilo, ( Iliirilm/J »,) wlnln, with (((irjilfi H|i<iltt f' I" *' 
IJ (Jiilioli tlii.Kii, ( liinti'»,} Ii4(lil I'liisli, iMoMird Willi l.loo'l r<i<l 4 lo f» 

Kiirf/iiiiily, iliiili viilviil iiiiiriiiiii, (iiiuly <ii|)()r(| T* l'» •» 

• < 'ii||i,i|i<i, (mini /iiKi riiliy Mi'iirhit • T; lo tt 
('iiiiilimljfii lii^rii,( II'uIiiiiII'k, ) (lim tlnrli iiiiKkoii - t«> 7 
C'liiiiririnii, yiillow, li|i|iii<l willi rod 4 lu '» 
I (!nui\iiiii\i\ ( Smith »,) ri'li flnrnl, Mlr/|)n'l willi |(iir|il<i 4 <" ^» 
Cm'Io Niilli, f /'«/!/«wrtr//'i»J yiilloWiWlri/XMl willi rml ''• ••' 4 

• (,'liMm|ii(«Min''ii|;(liii(il, rirli inttro'iit It In i'l 

• (,'liMiii|ii<in, ('(M/*'«,; wliidi, li|i|M«l Willi lilii' f' '<» '' 
(,'linllitiiliiiiii Kiviil, (liirli hIiikIhiI (riiiiiKiii - ■ Ti In <i 
r'iiirii, (Hill mil ii'ii,) «i(|Mifli wliilii • • . 4 I'l f< 

• (,'|iwi|iiilr(i, I'llrii (inn lilimli, wliiln • . 4 In f» 
I (Mimiu, (Jill'rlii'ii,) iliirl* <rii»iM<;ii, (liidy formiil • . 4 l'» ^ 

• C'lin. (Will mil I'D,) ri'li |iiir)il<t, rtlwiiyw jm r(i< ( 4 In f» 

Did I'l1»(i|<!lll, llllir, ll|l|H1«l Willi ))llf))l(l !' I" 1 

• (.'iiloKKii*, ( Ihiiwn'*,) iMKiiiliriil iriiiinnu, imlm liif</,«t llowi^r l» l<» '*> 

I (/'<llll|l<tlil(ll', (fhldtll't,) lillininll )»llf|ilr, li<-.lillllllll • . 4 I'l f» 

( f ,'i»iiil<i ilo I'lirJM, (liii< «'/iniiry yiilinw, Mii))<^rli (low«r • 4 i<i '.'> 

Vi>tii\itrUir, ( IViilnidl'ii,) niiU\iii\iii iiiirii\i\ - - • '•'• in 4 

• C,'o»i(|ii<ir«»rnri';iir»jMi,f/',7///ti«*<«///)'#,jlil(l»tli,»il)(i«l»)(l w(lli))iiili 4 in T; 
i'i)tinui^ri>r,((Jitrniiir'ii,) tUh vulvt'.l I'.riinitini ■ • • 4 lo r» 
(/'niKjiinr'ir, (('hiinillrr'n,) finn, hIiikIhiI |»ur(»l«i ■ • • fi l« <l 

• (,'iiim«irvnliv«i, (Hi.iimim'ii,) hrif/lil niliy wmrlol H lo (» 
( (/'nriMliiiilioii llid <iritiit,li^lil, 'liiiniitly viirl<;j(iil<iil 4 In f> 
t (/'niil<i»i<l<ir, f ^/t///////«j /inn hIiikIikI j(i(r;il(-, <ii|»j)«r(l 4 in fi 
(/'oiiliiiidi'r, (Slinijiir't'n) rii\i iinirniiiif I'tiiiinuiniiiirii^iti (< In') 
(jnrniiiilinii, ( I'JIiol n^) wliilit, Uumi\ willi |iiir|il<i In (i 
" ('nrnniilinii, i i'.liili'mul.iiiii.'n,) IkkhiIiI'iiI tnuy jiink 4 In f» 
" (Uiritnuu (Jlriiiim^ii,) wliiln, 'uriniiKly v<iin<<l Willi »:r)(n»n/i '•'> in 4 
" flnrnin'l, Miipitili (liirli iiiicc, l(ir«<. (Inwur 4 In .'/ 
(/nrinliiiKix, ( //rnji'ii,) ikini iliirU crliimnn I) In 7 
CouiiliiM »r J>iiiliii/(lnn, CA//if/r/'i^>/>Sf'«,; i!i(|/( >l» wliili I! In 1 

— ^— «ri)MMiMnr»), wliiln, Willi |iMr)»l() Uj/« 4 In 

— ^— — nf (.ivcriinnj, iKtiiKliriil hIkiikkI (iCiirlct. • '» (n H 

• ' orMftimfidld, ( lliiflnim'ii,) *^ntrn tiiif wUiiM • • 4 »o Ti 

• — ^— (»rjl(idiinr, iiinlllorl liliir, iwid r!»iri»iiii(i 4 In f> 
— ^— o/' Hliofliiild, (in(t rnwy |ii(r|)lii 'i in 7 
— — «n'nrriii;<lnn, Idimli, ndjirird with jilii'- 4 In f* 
— — of Wniiiyiid, |»itiir|i liloMMniii, iid^</l willi jiMf)>l») '> In <! 

CriU'iiiifi, ^/A;»/^/««'«,^ wliilo, l)i«:(d Willi l)fi//lil lilii'; - • G In li 
(/rnHii«,ynllnw,li|i|i(id willi (iiujilfi, liciiiitirul wIkiiuI fii'il't^i'luin 4 In r» 

• |);i))liii(^, ( IViilnnHK,) lU'XiiMi: \i\nnU - 4 In t, 
Uoli/iii'i!, (//an/ww/'»,^ fliin |»iirj»li}, fouiid 'KjijK.d (Kiiila f; in f» 
UciiiiiiMii, fiiiu ruby |iur|il<) • • ■ f' to i'> 



190 



DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 



i Denolei American Seedlings. * Fre« Bloomers. § New V»rictiei. HEIGHT 

IN FEET. 

* Desdemona(ii;-o?f?i'i-,) white, laced with rose, showy flower 4 to 5 
t Diadem, ( Dunlap's.) fine bright scarlet - - - 4 to 5 

* Diadem of Flora, (Girling's,) extra fine ruby scarlet - 5 to 6 
Diadem of Perfection, (T«?//or's ) rosy crimson, cupped petals 
Diana, (i'/p/iJMS^ow&'jf.) beautiful crimson and yellow - 
Dictator, (.Tt/Zs's,) extra larj^e scarlet - - . - 

* Dido, (YbztKff's,) fine rosy lilac .... 
§ Diomede, rich maroon and purple, shaded - . - 
^ Donna Anna, (^Cook s,) splendid dark rose - - - 

* Don Carlos, beautiful crimson, fine shaped flower - 
Duchess of Bedford. (IVidnaWs,) bright scarlet 

of Buccleugh, {Cormack^s,) sulphur, pink margin - 

of Kent, (^Mitchell's,) white, edged with lake 

of Montrose, (Dray^s,) mottled rose, yellow, crimson 

* of Portland, (Title ry's,) blush, purple edge 

* • of Riciimond, (^Elpldnstone'' s ^ orange and pink 

* of Sutherland, {HkirHng's,) blush, tipped with pink 

* Duke of Bedford, (Dennis's,) large crimson maroon 

of Bedford, (iVe?r%'s,) dark purple - - - 

i of Richmond, carmine shaded with lilac, (splendid) 

t Dwarf Scarlet. {Nealc's,) a prolific and free bloomer 

Earl of Tankerville, extra fine scarlet - - - - 

9 Egyptian King, rose, delicately tipped with bronze 

* Egyjjtian Prince, fine glossy plum colour - . - 
i Eliza, (.Sifrt>!/o«/'s,) fine yellow, with red centre * 
{ Elizabeth, (Trcntjield''s,) blush, mottled, edged with crimson 
Empress, (Dennis's,) yellow, edged with purple 
England's Defiance, (^Miller's,) red and white, striped 

* Essex Rival, (^Sorrel's,) fine dark purple . - - 

* Etonia, (Keelcr's,) extra fine salmon colotir. cupped petals 
Euphernea, (Mo!li)>rux^s,) extra fine purple - - - 

* Eva, (^Fosters.) fine blush white, cupped petali 

* Exemplar, (JFirfKaH's,) extra large white, always perfect - 

* Exquisite, (Girling's,) superb salmon colour, cupped petals 
ij Fire Ball (Squibb's) vivid scarlet. 

* Fisherton Champion (Squihb's) dark crim on 

* Formosa (^Glrling's) fine buff", tipped with rose 
<i Gazelle, white, edged similar to Peach blossom. 
T General Harrison (Butland Wilson's) fine scarlet. - 

* Glory, (/5oM^'«s's) extra large bright scarlet. 
^ Glory of Chieveley, superb scarlet. 
Gloria Mundi, light sulphur yellow. - - . - 

* Glow of Plymouth, (llcndle's) white, tipped with purple. - 

* Glory of the West, (Dray's) scarlet ball-flower richly cupped. 

* Gold Finder, (Dra^ '.s^ bright primrose yellow, cupped. 



to 5 
to 5 
to 6 
to 5 
to 5 
to 5 
to 5 
to 5 
to 
to 
to 
to 
to 
6 to 

5 to 

6 to 
4 to 

3 to 

4 to 
4 to 
4 to 

3 to 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 

3 to 4 

4 to 5 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
3 to 4 
5 to 6 
5 to 6 

4 to 5 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
to 
to 
to 
to 
to 
to 



6 to 



4 to 5l 



DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 191 

T Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. HEIGHf 

IN FEKT- 

Golden Sovereign, (Medley's) superb golden vellow - 5 to 6 
tj Grace Darling, or Heroine of the North, light, laveudermargin 4 to 5 

Grand Falconer, beautiful light crimson. - - - 5 to 6 

* Grandis, extra large, ruby inirple - - - - 5 to 6 

* Heathergreeu Rival, sulphur yellow - . - 3 to 4 
Helena, {MecketVs) fine blush wiiite - - - - 4 to 5 

* Helen of Troy, beautiful light rosy blush, perfect form - 4 to 5 
i Henry Clay, superb scarlet - - - - - 4 to 5 
Hermione.^WieWs) white, tipped with purple - - - 6 to 7 
Hero, (Foster's) dark red, cupped petals - - - 4 to 5 
$ Hero of Nottingham, maroon, edged with rose - - 4 to 5 

of Seven Oaks, beautiful rosy crimson - - 4 to 5 

t of Tippecanoe, (i/rt/jcoc^'s) ruby purple - - 4 to 5 

* of Wakefield, superb rosy crimson - - - 5 to 6 
of Wymbourn, plum colour, fine show flower - 4 to 5 

Honourable Mrs. Ashley. (Brotcn's) white with blood tip - 3 to 4 
Stewart Wortley, fine rosy purple - - 3 to 4 

* Hope, (Nevilis) noval rose colour, splendid form - - 4 to 5 
Horatio, (Smith's) yellow, margined with rosy crimson - 3 to 4 

* Horatio. ( rrirfna/i s) bright purple, cupped - t . ■"> to (> 
•Horticulturist, (E/pAiws«o«c's) superb rosy lilac - - 4 to 5 
Incomparable White, (rr/jccZer''s) pure white - - - 5 to 6 
Independent, (Girling's) superb yellow - - - 5 to 6 
$ Ingestric Rival, fine lilac, exquisite form - - - 4 to 5 
Innovator, ( Wells's) yellow edged with red, beautiful when perfect 4 to 5 
Jealous Wife, yellow, with cupped petals. - - - 4 to 5 
t Jessie Thorburn, (Thorburn's) white, edged with pink - 5 to 6 
Joan of Arc, (Caf/euor/i's) beautiful pink - - - 4 to 5 
Julia, (Brotcii's) nankeen colour - - - - 4 to 5 

* Julia, (C7arA;e"s) sulphur tipped with crimson - - 4 to 5 
JuUet, (Jrirf>za?/'s) fine cupped rose - - - - 4 to 5 
Juno, (Girling's) rich rosy purple - - - - 4 to 5 

* Kingscote Rival, beautiful light rose - - - - 5 to 6 
King of Beauties, (£/p/»«stonf*) light with crimson edge - 4 to 5 
King Otho, ruby rose or lake colour, largo flower - - 5 to 6 

of the Whites, pure white, flowers generally perfect - 4 to 5 

. of the Yellows; (£/j?/tins«owes) fine cupped petals - 4 to 5 

La Carnation, (Paul's) white flaked with rosy crimson - 3 to 4 

*Lady Anne, (lfo;7icoorf's) white, laced with lilac - - 3 to 4 

Dartmouth, (WidnalVs) white, edged with lilac - • 5 to 6 

^ Deacon, clear creamy lemon, veined with rose - - 4 to 5 

Fordwich, lilac, mottled and striped with blush - • 5 to 6 

King, fine delicate rose - - - - -3 to 4 

Kinnaird, (jKtrfrfs) rosy lilac - - - - 4 to 5 

J_— Maclean, light ground, crimson margin, superb flower - 4 to 5 



'92 DAHLIA CATALOGUE | 

t Denotes American feedlings. * Free Bloomers. § Sew Varii 

Lady Mallet, (Faweett's) white, laced with rose 

Molyneux, red, sometimes striped and tipi^ed with white 

Northampton, white, tinted with purple 

* Powlet, bright lilac, perfect formed flower 

* Sonde's (Cox's) pale yellow edged with rose 

Webster, extra fine crimson ... 

^ Wenman, light claret, finely Clipped 

Lady of the Lake, (Wells's) white, tinted with rosy purple 

iJ Lancashire Witch, white, edged with purple 

* Lavinia, pure white, edged with lilac 

* Letitia, ( fFells') yellow and brown, fine shape 
^ Levvisham Rival, white, elegantly cupped - 
Liberty, purple plum colour, a free bloomer - 
Lilac Perfection, (Harding's) beautiful when at maturity 
5 Lilac Perfection, (Ingram's) extra fine form and colour 
§ Lilac Unique, a fine flower and perfect bloomer 
Lord Bath, ( Wheeler's) large crimson purpk 

Byron, (■imi^/i's) fine bright crimson 

Morpeth. (Evans's) dark puce, finely cupped - 

Russell, bright scarlet ball, a free bloomer 

* Lovely Ann, (Dickersoti's) blush white, tinted with lilac 
^ Lucina, (Spencer's) iine lilac, edged with crimson - 
^Madonna, (Stanford's) fine rosy lilac - 
Man of Honour, (Harding's) brilliant rose 
*Marchioness of Lansdowne, blush, with purple edge - 
Maria Edgeworth, primrose, tipped with rose - 

Marquis of Lothian, (Goodalis) superb rosy crimson 

* of Northampton, (ElpJiin stone's) mottled ruby 

« Marshal Soult, (Elphinstones) lilac and red - 

§ Marshal Soult, (Steicart's) mottled rose, extra fine - 

Mary, (Z)ofWs) white, laced with rosy lilac, beautiful at maturity 5 to 6 

Mary (rre//cr's) light purple, cupped 

Mary of Burgundy,(C£!/;ej<o-A's) carmine and white 

* Mary, Queen of Scots, white margined with purple - 
§ Masterpiece, (JVilmer's,) white, tipped with lilac - 
^ Matchless, (^FcWer's) superb carmine, well-formed flower 

* Mazeppa, (IVidnairs.) rich ruby purple - 
Medusa, (Wells's ) white and pink, beautifully mottled 
MetropoHtan Calypso, splendid rosy blush 
Metropolitan Perfection, dark velvet, crimson ball-flower 

* Metropolitan Yellow, extra fine ... 

* Middlesex Rival, extra fine, dark purple 
Miss Broadwood, delicate white 
§ Miss Johnston, fine rose, beautiful shape 

* Miss Scroope, (Hedley^s) fine rose, cupped 



HEIGHT 


IN FEET. 


3 to 4 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


4 to 5 


4 


to 5 


4 to 5 


4 


to 


5 


4 to 5 


4 


to 


5 


5 


to 


6 


3 


to 


4 


4 to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


5 to 6 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


5 


to 


6 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


5 


to 


6 


4 to 5 


4 


to 


5 


3 


to 


4 


5 


to 


6 


3 


to 


4 


4 


to 


5 


y 5 


to 


6 


4 to 5 


4 


to 


5 


5 


to 


6 


3 


to 


4 


4 


to 


5 


4 to 5 


4 


to 


5 


5 


to 


6 


6 


to 


7 


4 


to 


5 


5 


to 


fi 


4 


to 


5 


4 


to 


5 


6 


te 


fl 



PAHLIA CATALOGUE 



103 



t Denotes Americao Seedlio^Si * Free Bloomers, y N«w Varieties. 

* Miss Wilson, Avhite, tipped with scarlet 
Miss Wortley, lilac and bufF - . . - - 
^ Model of Perfection, (Neville's) extra dark maroon 
t Mrs. Bucknall, white, delicately edged with lilac 
IVIrs. Cullis, (Hodges) fine rosy crimson - . - 
]VJrs. Davies, (iVonnajt's) white, edged with purple 
t* JVIrs. Rushton, (Buist's) blush white, finely cupped 

* iVIrs. Wilkinson, extra fine blush white 
Mungo Park, (^Young's) light crimson 

* Napoleon (^Smith's) dark crimson, excellent fomied flower 
t* Neale's G olden Fleece, splendid yellow 
Neil, Dr. (Smith s) dark maroon, free bloomer 

* Ne Plus Ultra, (Widnall's,) fine shaped, purple and crimson 3 to 
Newick Park Rival, (Slaters ) glossy purple 

* Newick Rival, (3/an/e/rs.) beautiful ruby rose 
" Nimrod, (IVirfrtffl/rj;,) fine dark crimson . - - 
North Star, bright purple, a superb flower - - - 

* Oh va, (ll^e/Zs's,) fine yellow, tipped with red 
Osccolus, crimson tijiped with white . . - 
(Jvid, (Keyne's) bluish purple, beautifully cupped 

* Paragon, (IVells's) yellow, edged with white 
Peerless White, purest of whites . - . - 
Perfection, (lledlejj's) fir:t rate dark maroon 
Perfection, (Hulman's) white, tipped and striped with lilac 
Perfection (IVid nalC s) cujiped rosy crimson 
Picta, orange and red, mottled and striped ... 

* Picta Magniflora, (Wells's) yellow, edged with red 

* Picta Perfecta, (Harris's) crimson, shaded with black 
Pink Perfection, compact flower, cujjped petals 
Pindarus, (^VeZL's) yellow, tipped with red - j- 
Pre-eminent, (Bark's) rich rosy crimson _ . _ 
' Premier, (lioicmmi's) beautiful cupped yellow 
t President Van Buren, (Makenzie's) bronzy rose 

* President, ( Wilmefs) dark purple, well formed 

* Prima Donna, (.S'^wiift's) blush, tinted with rosy lilac 
$ Princess of Beauties, white, shaded with rose 

* Pruieess Victoria, (JVidiiaWs) white, edged wjth purple, 
Purple Perfection, (Eiphinslone's) fine cupped flower 
^ Purple Unique (Allman's) fine glossy jiurple 

* Queen of Beauties, (IVells's,) white, tipped with blood red 

* Clueen Elizabeth, (Brov:n''s,) mottled purple and white 
§ Q,ueen of lesmond. white, with purple stripes 

of Spain, (Downing' s,) white, laced with purple ■ 

of Trumps, (Elphinatone's,) extra fine shaded rose 

17 



HEIGHT 


IS FEi-T. 


5 to 6 


4 to 5 


3 to 4 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


5 to 6 


4 to 5 


5 to 6 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


n 3 to 4 


4 to 5 


5 to G 


5 to 6 


5 to G 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


5 to 6 


3 to 4 


5 to 6 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


3 to 4 


5 to 6 


4 to 5 


4 to 5 


4 to'5 


3 to 4 


4 to 5 


5 to 6 


5 to G 


4 to 5 


3 to 4 


G to 7 


3 to 4 


5 to 6 


G to 7 


4 to 5 


■ 4 to .5 


- 4 to 5 



191 



DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 



t Denotes American SeedliD^s. ♦ Free Bloomeri. § New Varieties. 



Queen Victoria, {Fowler's,) white, laced with purple 

* • Victoria, {Gaines's,) pure white, cupped jietals 

Victoria, (Hodge''s,) blush, laced with carmine 

* duilled Perfection, {Brmcti^s,) beautiful shaded crimson - 

* Rainbow, (rrifZ«oi/'s,_) purple and crimson shaded - 
Red Rover, (Girling's,') dark red, showy flower 

* Reliance, (Widnall's,) orange, margined with buff - 

* Rienzi, (W^uZnaZZ's,) crimson and puce, mottled 
Ringleader, (/nZmer's,) beautiful mottled rose 

Rising Sun, (Tfirfwa/Z's,) large bright scarlet - - - 

§ Rival President, {ElUofs,) dark puce, splendidly formed - 

* Rival Purx^le, (Trtj/Zor's,) extra large flower - 

Rival Q,ueen, white, margined with pink ... 

* Rival Rose, (GoorftcJBS,^ superb ruby rose, cupped 
Rival Sussex, {Holman's,) beautiful maroon ... 
Rival Sussex, ("SZa/T/brrf's,) fine dark puce ... 
Rival Yellow. (JacArson's,) brilliant yellow ... 

* Robert Buist, (roim^:"^,) white, laced with purple - 
Robert Burt, {Jackson's,) rich dark red 

Robert L' Diable, {Cormack's,) very dark puce^ 

Rose de Amour, {Breirer's,) rosy pink, tipped with white 

* Rosa Superba, (£Z/3/ims/o;ie's,) extra fine ruby rose 
Rose of Shannon, (Caf/ew^/iV,) splendid rose 

§ Rose Superior, {Girling's,) verj- splendid perfect flower - 

* Rosetta, {Mayhew's,) fine ruby rose ... 

* Royal Adelaide, or Gem, {Bnrum's,) white, edged with rose 

* Royal Standard, {Whale's.) rich rosy purple 

Ruby, {Girling's,) ruby rose . . . - - 

Salamander, {WidnaUs,) extra large scarlet ... 

* Scarlet Perfection, {Elphinslone's^ ixwYvwaWei cupped flower 
Scarlet Perfection, {Knight's,) extra rich flower 

* Sir Henry Fletcher, fine rosy crimson ... 

* Sir John Seabright, {Sailer's,) superb rich crimson 
Splendissima, {AUmari's,) splendid purple ... 
§ Sjiringall Conqueror, darkest flower known 
Springfield Rival, {Inwoed's,) fine rosy cupped, crimson 
Springfield Major, {Gaine's,} large dark crimson purple 
Star of Buckland crimson, tipped with white - - - 
Star, {Brown's.) extra fine scarlet . - - . 

* St. Leonard's Rival, bright rosy lilac . . - 

* Striatta Formosisima, (Ba(e«'s,) Carnation striped, beautiful 
§ Striped Perfection, (Case''s,) maroon, striped with purple 
Striped Unique, {Girling's,) orange, striped with scarlet 

* Suffolk Hero, CGirling's,) splendid crimsoa maroon 



lEIGHT 
[ FEET. 

4 to 5 
4 to 5 
4 to 5 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
5 to 6 
5 to 6 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 

6 to 7 
5 to 6 

5 to 6 
4 to 5 

3 to 4 

4 to 5 
4 to 5 

6 to 7 
4 to 5 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
5 to 6 
5 to 6 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
4 to 5 

4 to 5 

6 to 7 

5 to 6 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
4 to 5 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 

5 to 6 
4 to 5 

6 to 7 
6 to 8 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
5 to 6 

3 to 4 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 
4 to 5 



DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 195 

T Denotes American Seedlingj, * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. 

» Sulphurea Elegans, (Jone«'j,) sulphur, often tinged with red 
Summum Bonum, (Girling's,) purple bronze 

* Sunbury Hero, (IVilmer's,) yellow, tipped with red 

* Surpasse Triumph Royal, durably fine, scarlet ruby 
Sussex Defiance, {Elphinstone's,) chocolate, very rare 

* Sylph, (JFidnall's,) white, deeply edged with rose - 
Sylvesta, white, sometimes tinted with lilac ... 

* Sylvia, (fFi£i?iaZ/'s,) pale rose, finely cupped 
Symmetry, (Dovs;las^s.) handsome dark crimson 

* Topaz, (Girling'Sy) fine golden yellow . - - 

* Tower of Sarum, (J^ilmer''s^ rich rosy crimson 
Triumphant, (Je^Vie's,) purple, finely cupped 

* Unique, {AnselVs,^ lightyellow, tipped with red 
Venosa, (Wheeler^ s,) blush, margined with rosy crimson 

* Victoria Regina, f Harm's) beautiful blush - 

* Victory, (/Tn/g/ii's,) rich dark crimson 
Village Maid, white, edged with lilac .... 
§ Virgin Q,ueen, pure white, finely formed flower 
Viscountess of Beresford, dark crimson, tipped with white - 
Warminster Rival, extra bright purple ... 
t Washington, white, inclining to blush ... 
Waterloo Scarlet (Catleiigh''s,) orange scarlet, cupped 

* Wonder, (Green's,) white, laced with rosy lilac, splendid - 

* Wormley Star, (Spier's,) vivid scarlet ... 
§ Yellow Defiance, (Cox^s,) splendid flower, the roots of 

which were selling 'in London, Nov. 1839, at £15 ster- 
ling, equal to Sixty-six dollars .... 

* Yellow Perfection, (Stone's,) extra fine dark yellow 
t Yemassee, (Arnold^s,) crimson maroon, always perfect 
9 Yorkshire Hero, splendid ruby rose . - - 

* Zeno, (E/p/iins^one's,) beautiful purple, blended with white 
Zitella, fine rosy pink ...... 

* Zolermio, (Priestley's,) clear deep yellow - - - 5 to 6 



HEIGHT 


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As some amateurs are apt to fancy, that the most econo- 
mical method of obtaining a supply of Dahlias in their 
gardens, is to raise them from seed, it may be necessary to 
remind such, that the trouble and expense of raising any 
quantity of seedlings, is equal to that attending the cultiva- 
tion of the same number of the choicest varieties ; and 
when it is considered that the greatest proportion of a plan- 



196 DOUBLE DAHLIA. 

tation may be single, and semi-double, and tliat but fevr 
double-flowering plants can be expected, equal to those 
above described, it must appear evident that it is the inte- 
rest of such persons as desire to have their gardens unin- 
cumbered vviih plants that are not calculated to ornament 
the same, to procure plants or roots of such varieties as 
have been tested, and highly recommended, as is the case 
with all those described in the preceding catalogue, and 
also those which are generally sold by the regular florists. 
But as I am writing for young gardeners, it may be neces- 
sary to state, tint although new varieties are usually raised 
from seed of the finest double flowers, some successful pro- 
jiagators prefer that ])rocured from semi-double varieties. 
Sow seed towards the end of February, or early in March, 
in pots, and plunge them in a moderate hot-bed, or seed 
may be deposited in the earth of the beds in shallow drills, 
and the beds attended to as directed in ihe calender for 
February and March. 

Nothing is more simple than the cultivation of Dahlia 
roots. In March or April, they will, if properly keptthrough 
the Winter, begin to sprout around the old stems and 
tubers. To forward these sprouts in growth, the roots should 
be either buried in light earth, on the top of a moderate hot- 
bed, or else potted, and then set in a warm room, or green- 
house, and watered. As soon as the shoots have grown to 
tlie length of two or three inches, the roots may be divided 
in such a manner as to have a good strong shoot attached 
to a piece of the tubor, or old stem ; each of these will, if 
])roperly managed, make a plant.* Those who may com- 
mence cultivating at an early season, should put the plants 
thus separated into small pots, and keep thorn in a growing 
state until about the middle of May, at which time they may 
be turned out of the pots with the balls of earth entire, and 



* In order to obtain an oxtra number of plants from any clioice varieties, 
cuttings are frequently taken from the shoots; when about three inches in 
lengtli,'vhi(:h are planted in nursery pots, and cultivated iniiot-beds: these 
require lobe shaded from the sun, by mats, for the first fortnight, after 
which they may be gradually inured to the air, and treated as plants raised 
in the ordinary way. 



DOUBLE DAHLIA. 197 

planted in the open borders, from three to four feet from each 
other. Let the ground be well pulverized, and enriched 
with good old manure, before the plants are set out. If the 
top soil be shallow, and the subsoil inferior, it would be 
beneficial to the plants, if holes be dug to the depth of from 
a foot to eighteen inches, and then replenished with good 
rich compost, consisting of two-thirds fresh loam, and one 
third of well rotted manure. 

Many cultivators have found late planting to suit better 
tlian early, and I myself have had more perfect flowers, 
from plants set out about the middle of June, than from 
those planted in May : this is easily accounted for. In July 
and August the weather is generally hot, which brings 
the forwardest plants into bud at an early season, and 
in the event of a continuation of hot dry weather, such 
buds fail to produce perfect flowers ; whereas those plants 
which are set out late, keep growing through the hot 
weather, and produce their buds just in time to receive all 
the benefit of the Autumnal rains. From a consideration of 
these circumstances, I think early in June the safest time to 
set out Dahlia plants; and if those persons who have no con- 
venience of forcing their roots, set them out in May, in 
ground prepared as before directed, they will generally suc- 
ceed very well, provided they take care to cover them incase 
of a cold change of weather; The roots may be thus cul- 
tivated entire, as is frequently done ; but if it be desired to 
have them parted, this business can be easily accomplished 
without disturbing the roots, and the offsets may be planted, 
in the ground seperately or potted. 

Previous to setting out the plants, it will be necessary tO' 
provide for their preservation through the varied changes of 
the season, or a sudden gust of wind may destroy the expec- 
tations of a year. The branches of the Dahlia are extremely 
brittle, and, therefore, a good stout pole, or neat stake, should: 
be driven down near each root, of a suitable height, so that 
the branches as they progress in growth, may be tied tliereto-- 
at every joint, which may be done with shreds of matting or 
twine. If the poles be in readiness.they are much more easily 
fixed at the time of planting the Dahlias than afterwards ; biUi 

17* 



193 GLADIOLVS, CORN FLAG, OR SWORD LILY. 

it may be done at any time after the ground has been soft- 
ened by rain, provided it be not delayed too long, so as to 
subject the plants to risk. Sometimes a few forward buds 
of the Dahlias will exhibit their premature beauties to the 
beams of a July and August sun ; but their lustre is quickly 
dimmed. The latter end of September, sometimes all Oc- 
tober, and part of November, witness the Dahlia in all its 
glory ; and dwarf plants, cultivated in pots, will sometimes 
blossom at Christmas ; but they require more than ordinary 
care, at a late period of their growth. 



GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWORD LILY. 

Of this genus of bu^bs there are about fifty species, natives 
of the Cape of Good Hope. Tiiey produce flowers of 
various colours, in August and September, and are well 
worthy the attention of those who cultivate tender exoti^ 
plants. They may be planted in September or October, 
about an inch deep in pots, which must be kept in a green- 
house or light room, and watered sparingly until they begin 
to grow. The following are known to be superb species 
and varieties : 

G. alatus, or Wing-Flowered, producing bright orange 
coloured flowers. 

G. hlandui produces flowers of a beautiful blush rose 
colour. 

G. Byz mtinus, or Turkish Flag, has large delicate 
purple flowers. 

G. cardi/ialis. This variety produces very large flowers 
of superb scarlet, spotted with white. 

G. fliribundus, or cluster flower, produces large flowers, 
of white and pink colour. 

The Gladiolus Natdlensis, or Psitacinna, is perhaps the 
most desirable to cultivate of all others. It blossoms freelyi 
and the colours are exquisitely beautiful. In its progress of 
blooming, ii exhi')its variable colours, as vermilion, red 
yellow, green, white, Ciimson, &.c., which brighten, as 



HYACINTH. 199 

the flower arrives at perfection, to the brilliancy of a rain- 
bow. Another good quality displays itself in the bulb, 
which, if properly managed, will yield an abundance of 
offsets ; these being cultivated, will flower the third year in 
perfection, and thus continue to multiply perpetually. 

I have named September and October as the season for 
planting, because it is considered the preferable season for 
most bulbs; but if these be preserved in good condition 
through the Winter until early in April, and then planted in 
a soil consisting of about one hilf fresh loam, equal parts 
of leaf mould, and sand well mixed, they may be forAvardcd 
in a warm room, green-house, or moderate hot-bed, until 
settled warm weather, and then turned out of the pots into 
a border, where they can be shaded from the sun at 
noonday ; this will induce each of them to throw up three 
or four stems from three to four feet high, each stem pro- 
ducing five or six gorg3ous bloisoms, in great perfection. 
Those planted in the Autumn or Winter, may also be turned 
out of the pots in June; and, from the fibres having taken 
substantial root in the soil before transplanting, such plants 
may be taken up again in August, or early in September ; 
and on being planted in large pots, they may be removed, 
so as to perfect their bloom, within view of the parlour or 
sitting-room, which will afford considerable amusement anc( 
gratification. 



HYACINTH. 

'' Ilail to theo ! hail, thou lovely flower! 
Still shed around thy sweet perfume, 
Still smile amid the Wintry hour, 
And boast e'en then a Spring-tide Moom. 
Thus hope, 'mid life's severest days, 
Still smiles, still triumphs o'er despair; 
Alike .>he lives in pleasure's rays, 
And cold affliction's Winter air." 

There are, as has been already stated, about thirteen 
hundred varieties of this family of plants, comprising all the 
various hues, as white, pink, red, yellow, blue, purple, 



2>00 IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE. 

crimson, &cc. and some of those with various coloured eyes. 
They begin to produce their flowers in the open borders 
early in April, on short erect stems covered with florets or 
small bells ; each floret is well filled with petals rising 
towards the centre, and is suspended from the stem by short 
strong footstalks, the longest at the bottom, and the upper- 
most florets stand so erect as to form a pyramid. A planta- 
tion, or a bed of these, have a very beautiful appearance, pro- 
vided they are well attended to. In planting them, which 
should be in the months of October or November, care should 
be taken to have the colours so diversified as to suit the far^cy ; 
they may be placed in short rows across the bed, about eight 
inches apart, and from three to four inches deep, measuring 
from the top of the bulb, and covered up at the setting in of 
Winter, as before recommended for bulbs in general. 

Those who may have a fine collection, should have an 
awning erected in the Spring, to screen them from the 
chilling blast, and also from drenching rains and the noon- 
day sun ; and they should be looked over as soon as they 
make their appearance above ground, to see if they are all 
perfect and regular ; if faulty or inferior bulbs should appear 
to have been planted in a conspicuous part of the bed, by 
accident or mistake, they can be taken out, and by short- 
ening the rows, others may be substituted with a trowel. 
When all are regulated, look over them frequently, and as 
the stems shoot up, tie them to wires, or small rods, with 
shreds of bass matting or thread, being careful not to injure 
the florets. In about six weeks after they have done flower* 
ing, the bulbs may be taken up, and managed as r«cominen- 
ded for bulbs in general, in a former page. 



IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE. 

There are two distinct species of plants cultivated under 
the name of Flower de Luce, each consisting of several 
wrieties. The bulbous species and varieties are designated 
a^.English, Spanish, Chalcedpnian, and American. These, 



IXIAS — JONQUILS. 201 

if introduced into the flower borders, and intermixed with 
perennial plants of variable colours, have a very pretty 
appearance when planted in clumps or patches. This may 
be done in the month of October, by taking out a spadeful 
of earth from each place alloted for a plant, and then 
inserting three or four bulbs, about two inches deep. If the 
ground be poor, some rich compost may be dug in around 
the spot before the bulbs are planted, and if several sorts be 
planted in the same border, let them be of various colours. 
The tuberous-rooted are of various colours, as blue, 
yellow, brown, and spotted ; they are easily cultivated, and 
flower freely in a loose soil inclining to moisture, if planted 
in March or April. 



IXIAS. 



These are tender, but very free-flowering bulbs, producing 
on their stems, which vary in height from six inches to two 
feet, very delicate flowers of various colours, as orange, 
blush white, purple, green, crimson, scarlet, and some have 
two and three colours connected in the same plant. 

There are, in all, upwards of twenty species, which may 
be cultivated in the green-house, by planting the bulbs 
in pots in September or October, and placing them near 
the light, and then watering them sparingly until they 
besfin to shoot. 



JONQUILS. 

This is a hardy race of bulbs, and produces very delicate 
yellow flowers early in May. There are different varieties, 
some of which are single-flowering, and others double. 
Their fragrance is very grateful, being similar to that of 
Jasmines. The'bulbs may be planted about two inches 
deep in the flower borders, or in pots, in October, or before 
the setting in of Winter ; they flower better the second year 
than in the first, and, therefore, should not be moved and 
replanted oftener than once in three years, 



LACHENALIAS — LILIES. 

LACHENALIAS. 



These are tender little bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good 
Hope. There are supposed to be in all about forty species 
and varieties. Those most cultivated with us, are the 
Lachenalia quadri-color, and L. tri-color^ which are 
very beautiful when in full bloom, exhibiting flowers of 
various colours on a stem of from six inches to a foot in 
height, and much in the character of Hyacinths. The 
colours which are yellow, scarlet, orange, green, &c., are 
very pure and distinct. L. nervosa, L. orchoides, L. punc- 
tata, and L. rubida, are all excellent species, and worthy of 
cultivation. They may be planted from one to two inches 
deep, in small pots, in the month of August and September, 
and watered but sparingly until they begin to grow. 



LILIES. 



There are several plants under this name, of different 
genera, some of which are indigenous. The Canada Lily, 
with yellow spotted drooping flowers, may be seen in wet 
meadows towards the last of June, and early in July. The 
Philadelphia Lily blooms also in July ; its flowers are red. 
There are some pure white, and others yellow, growing in 
various parts of the country. Among the foreign genera ■ 
are several species. Of the 3Iariagon, or Turk's-cap Lilies, 
there are some beautiful varieties ; as the Caligula, which 
produces scarlet flowers ; and there is one called the Crown 
of Tunis, of purple colour ; besides these, are the Double 
Violet Flamed, the Whhe, the Orange, and the Spotted ; 
these are all hardy, and may be planted in various parts of 
the garden, by taking out a square foot of earth, and then, 
after manuring and pulverizing it, the bulbs may be planted 
therein before the setting in of Winter, at different depths, 
from two to four inches, according to the size of the bulbs. 
Some of the Chinese varieties are very beautiful, as the 
Tiger, or Leopard Lily, and the dwarf red Lilium con 



NARCISSUS. 203 

colour. There are others with elegant silver stripes, which 
are very showy, and there is one called Lilium superbum, 
that has been known to have had twenty-five flowers on a 
stalk. 

Besides those above enumerated, there are some others 
which are generally cultivated in greenhouses, as the Calla, 
or Ethiopian Lily ; and the following which have been 
known to endure our Winters, by protecting them with 
dung, &c. Liliiim longiflorum, in two varieties ; these pro- 
duce on their stalks, which grow from twelve to eighteen 
inches high, beautiful rose-coloured flowers, streaked with 
white, which are very sweet-scented. These roots are 
sometimes kept out of the ground until Spring, and then 
planted in the flower borders, but they should be preserved 
carefully in sand, or dry mould. Lilium Japonicum, Of 
these there are two varieties, which produce several stalks at 
once, yielding .very showy flowers. One of the varieties is 
blue flowered, and the other pi-oduces flowers of the purest 
white. 



NARCISSUS. 

The species and varieties of this plant are numerous. 
The Incomparable is perfectly hardy, and produces its 
flowers in April, which are called by some pasche, or pans 
flowers, by others, butter and eggs ; perhaps because their 
bright yellow petals are surrounded whith large white ones. 
Some persons dislike the smell of these, and it is said that 
the odour has a pernicious effect upon the nerves; but the 
white fragrant double, as well as the Roman and Poly- 
anthus Narcissus, are free from this objection, being of a 
very grateful and agreeable smell. Some of these are justly 
held in great esteem for their earliness, as well as for their 
varied colours. The Grand Monarque de France, the Belle 
Legoise, and some others, have white flowers with yellow 
cups. The Glorieux has a yellow ground, with orange- 
coloured cups ; besides these are some white and citron- 
coloured, as the Luna, and others entirely white, as the 



204 ORNITIIOGALUM, OR STAR OF BETHLEHEM. 

Rein Blanche, and Morgenster. All these varieties are very 
suitable either for the parlour or greenhouse, and may he 
planted in pots, from October to December, from two to three 
inches deep. The double Roman Narcissus are very sweet- 
scented ; if these be planted in pots, or put into bulb glasses 
iu the month of October, they will flower in January and 
February. 

Polyanthus Narcissus are more delicate than Hyacinths 
or Tulips ; when they are planted in the open border, they 
should be covered about four inches with earth, and before 
the setting in of Winter, it is advisable to cover the beds 
with straw, leaves, or litter, to the depth of six or seveh 
inches, and to uncover them about the middle of March. 



ORNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF BETHLEHEM. 

There are about fifty varieties of these bulbs, natives of 
the Cape of Good Hope, some of which are from three to 
five inches in diamet«r, and shaped similar to a pear ; ' 
others are much like Hyacinth bulbs. — Among those cult:* 
vated in ximerica are the O. lactcum and the O. aurevm ; 
the former produces fine white flowers, and the spike is 
about a foot in length ; the latter produces flowers of a 
golden colour, in contracted racemose corymbs. The 
O. maritimum, or Sea Squill, is curious ; from the centre of 
the root arise several shining glaucous leaves, a foot lonr, 
two inches broad at the base, and narrowing to a point. If 
kept in a greenhouse, these are green during Winter, and 
decay in the Spring: then the flower-stalk comes up rising 
two fee?, naked half way, and terminated by a pyramidal 
thyrse of white flowers. 

These bulbs are generally cultivated in the greenhouse, 
and require a compost consisting of about one-half fresh 
loam, one-third leaf mould, and the remainder sand, in 
which they may be planted in September. When cultiva- 
ted in the garden, they should be planted four or five inches 
deep, and protected with dung, &c. They produce their 
flowers early in June. 



OXALIS — PJEONY. 205 

OXALIS. 

'i'he Oxalis is a native of the Cape of Good Hope ; the 
species are numerous, and their roots are very small bulbs, 
articulated, jointed, or granulated, in a manner peculiar 
to this genus. They produce curious flowers of vai-ious 
hues, yellow, purple, rose, red, white, striped, vermilion 
colour, &.C. The bidbs should be planted in very small 
pots in August and September, in. a compost, consisting of 
about two-thirds loam, and one-third leaf or light mould, 
and treated in the same nianner as other Cape Bulbs. 
They increase in a peculiar manner, by the parent bulb 
striking a fibre down from its base, at the extremity of which 
is produced a new bulb for the next year's plant, the old 
one perishing. These plants wtU flower freely in a green- 
house. 



FMONY. 

" Pceonia round each fiery ring unfurls, 

Bares to the noon's bright blaze her sanguine curls." 

Of this genus of splendid plants tliere are known to be 
about twenty species, and as many varieties. It is said 
that the Pceonia ojicinalis rubra, or common double red 
Pseony, was introduced into Antwrrp upwards of two centu- 
ries ago, at which time it was sold at an cnoimous price. It 
has since been highly esteemed izi Europe and America, 
and is to be fouad in all well-established gardens, exhibiting 
its vivid crimson petals early in June. Many superb species 
have of l.tte years been brought from China, a few of which 
may be noticed, with some others which are in very great 
repute. 

Pceonia alba Chinensis is on; of the finest of the herba- 
ceous sorts. Tlis flowers are white, tinged with pink at 
the bottom of the petals. 

P. edulis whitliji has also white flowers, which are very 
large and splendid. 

P. edu'is frag: ins, is a fine large double scarlet variety, 
and produces flowers perfumed like the rose. 

18 



206 TULIP. 

p. humei has beautiful large double dark blush-coloured 
flowers. 

P. paradoxa fimbriata, produces fringed double red 
flowers, which are very beautiful. 

These are all hardy, and may be planted about four 
inches. deep in the garden, in October or November. The 
flowers exhibit themselves to the best advantage, when 
planted on a bed that is elevated, and of a circular form. 

The following are half hardy and half shrubby ; these 
have been known to survive the Winter by being well pro- 
tected, but are kept much better in a greenhouse ; and they 
also exhibit their flowers to greater advantage than when 
exposed to the full sun, 

P. moutan Banksii, or Tree Pseony, produces very large 
double blush flowers in abundance, with feathered edges to 
every petal. This variety is highly deserving of cultivation. 

P. moutan rosea is a fine rose-coloured double variety, 
and produces very splendid flowers. 

P. moutan papaveracea produces very large white flowers, 
with pink centres. This splendid variety frequently bears 
flowers from nine to eleven inches in diameter. 

Besides the above, are several others of various colours, 
some of which are semi-double. 



TULIP. 



" For brilliant tints to charm the eye , 
What plant can with the tulip vie ? 
Yet no delicious scent it yields 
To cheer the garden, or the fields ; 
Vainly in gaudy colours drest, 
'Tis rather gazed on than caressed." 

The Tulip is a native of the Levant, and has been in 
cultivation nearly three centuries. It may be justly entitled 
the King of Flowers, for the brilliancy and endless com- 
bination of all colours and shades. The varieties of the 
Tulip are very numerous, and are divided into different 
classes. Those cultivated in regular beds by amateurs are 
rose-coloured, hyhlocmen and hizarres. There are a great 



TULIP. 207 

many beautiful varieties, denominated Parrot Tulips, which 
have notched petals, and striped or diversified with green ; 
and also some very dwarfish kinds, both single and double, 
which are generally cultivated in parlours and greenhouses. 

Mr. T. Hogg, of Paddington, near London, has pub- 
lished a work, entitled, " A Treatise on the Cultivation of 
Florists' Flowers," which comprises the Tulip, Carnation, 
Auricula, Ranunculus, Polyanthus, Dahlia, German and 
China Asters, Seedling Heartsease, and New Annuals. In 
that work, which is dedicated to Queen Adelaide, the author 
remarks that the cultivation of the Tulip is one of the most 
fascinating and phasing pursuits imaginable, and that when 
the " Tulip mania has fairly got hold of any one, it sticks 
to him like the skin on his back, and remains with him the 
re&t of his life." He instances a Mr. Davey, of Chelsea, 
as being in his seventy-fifth year, and in whose breast the 
fancy for Tulips was so predominant, that in the Autumn of 
1832, he was induced to part with a hundred sovereigns for 
one single Tulip, named "Miss Fanny Remble." Perhaps 
abetter definition of what constitutes the properties of a 
good Tulip, could not be given than a description of this 
precious gem, or "loveliest of all Tulips ;" but, Jest my 
readers should conclude that the old gentleman was in his 
dotage, I would inform them that this favorite bulb was 
purchased of the executors of the late Mr. Clarke, with 
whom it originated, and that it had not only been the pet of 
its late owner, but had excited the envy and admiration of 
all the amateurs who went to view it. 

" This precious gem, a hyhloemen Tulip, was raised from 
one of Mr. Clarke's seedling breeders, and broke into colour 
three years ago; it has produced two ofi:sets since, and is 
adapted to the second or third row in the bed ; the stem is 
firm and elastic ; the foliage full and broad, of a lively 
green ; the cup large, and of the finest form ; the v/hite 
pure and wholly free from stain ; the pencilling on the 
petals is beautifully marked with black or dark purple, and 
the feathering uniform and elegant; it preserves its shape 
to the last, the outer leaves not sinking from the inner ; in 
a word, it is considered the first flower of its cast, and the 
best that has ever been produced in England." 



208 TULIP. 

The article in the work already alluded lo, on the cuUi- 
Tatioii of Tulips alone, occupies ninety. six pages ; I, 
therefore, cannot attempt any thing more than nn abridge- 
ment of the author's ideas on some important point?. 
Tliose of my readers who may desire full information, are 
referred to the work itself, which may be obtained of Mr. 
G. C. Thorburn. 

The following description may serve to govern tlie choice 
of amateurs : Tulips exhibited at the shows, are, in general, 
xilassed and distinguished as follows: Flamed liizarrcs, 
Feathered Bizarres, Flamed Byb'oemcns, Feathered By- 
hlocmens, Flamed Roses, Feathered Roses, and Se/fs, or 
plain-coloured. 

A Bizarie Tulip has a yellow ground, marked with 
purple or scarlet of different shades; it is cu'Acd flamed 
wiien a broad or irregular stripe runs up the middle of the 
petals, with short abrupt projecting points, branching out 
on each side , fine narrow lines, called arched and ribbed 
often extend, also, from this broad side to the extremity 
of the leaves ; the colour generally appearing strongest in 
the inside petals; a Tulip, with this broad coloured stripe, 
which is sometimes called beamed or splashed, is, at the 
same time, frequently feathered also. 

It is called /t'«^//crcf/ when it is Avithout this broad stripe ; 
hut yet it may have some narrow lines, joined or detached, 
running up the centre of the leaf, sometimes branching out 
and carved towards the top, and sometimes without any 
spot or line at all ; the petals are feathered nioie or less 
round the edges or margin inside and out, the peneilling or 
feathering is heavy or broad in some, and light or narrow 
in others, sometimes with breaks or gaps, and sometimes 
close and continued all round. 

A Byhlocmen Tulip has a white ground, lined, marked, 
striped or variegated with violet or purple, only of various 
shades ; and whether feathered or flamed, is distinguished 
|jy the same characters and marks which are pointed out 
and applied to the Bizarred Tulips. 

A Rose Tulip is marked or variegated with rose, scailet, 
crimson or cherry colour, on a white ground ; and thtt 



TULIPS. 309 

Feathered Rose is to be distinguished from the Flamed by 
the same rules as described before; the Rose is very often 
both feathered and flamed. 

A Self, or plain-coloured Tulip, properly so called, is 
either white or yellow, and admits of no further change ; 
other plain-coloured Tulips, whether red or purple, are 
called breeders, and are hardly worthy of being exhibited. 
Mr. Hogg informs us, that £100, say $500, judiciously 
expended at the present time, will give a moderate sized 
bed, that shall contain the greater part of the finest varieties 
grown ; such a bed as £250 would not have purchased 
twelve or fourteen years ago. 

To describe minutely the mode of planting a regular bed 
of Tulips would exceed our limits ; suffice it to state that 
the name of every bulb should be written in a book, and 
that they should be so classed as to have the varied colours 
to show advantageously; to this end, the tallest should be 
allotted for the middle of the bed, and others in regular 
gradations, so as to have the most dwarfi.sh on the sides. 
The bulbs must be covered with good mould, to the depth 
of three inches from the top of the bulb on the sides of the 
bed, and about four inches in the middle. Let a small 
spoonful of clean drift sand be used around each bulb, and 
see that the bed be left sufficiently round from the middle 
to the edges. The beginner must understand that no un- 
sightly tallies, or number sticks, are to distinguish the 
Tulips ; but that he must adopt a sort of ground plan, divi- 
ding the whole bed into rows of seven bulbs across ; for 
example, take and write down the names and places of the 
Tulips in the first row, and continue the same form all 
through to the other end of the bed. 

Row 1st. 

No. 1. Fenelon, this is a Bybloemcn. 

2. Duchess of Clarence, - - Rose-coloured. 

3. Charlemagne, - - - - Bybloemen. 

4. Louis the Sixteenth, - - Bybloemen. 

5. Meranon, ------ Bizarre. 

6. Volney, --..-. Bybloemen. 

7. Lady Crewe, - . , . Rose-coloured. 

18* 



210 TUBEROSE. 

Good fresh loam, taken from under heallhy grass sods, is 
the most suitable soil for Tulips to grow in ; under which 
should be buried, to the depth of a foot, about two inches 
thickness of well rotted cow or horse droppings. The reason 
for placing the dung so low is, that the fibres may get down 
to it, (which they will do,) and that the bulbs may not 
b3 injured by it, as is apt to be the case if too much dung is 
used around them. The best time for pjtintiiig the bulbs, is 
early in November, and the beds should be made a fortnight 
previous, in order that the earth may become sufficiently 
settled. 

If severe frosts set in, after the Tulips show themselves 
above ground in the Spring, some^ protection should be 
given ; single mats placetl over hoop bends answer \ery 
well ; and at the time of blooming, an awning should be 
erected over them, sufficient to screen the Tulips from the 
intense heat of the sun, which awning should be sufliciently 
spacious to admit of persons walking under it, to view the 
beautiful flowers to the greatest possible advantage. 



TUBEROSE. 

This fragrant and delightful flower has been cultivated in 
English flower gardens for upwards of two ctnturies; there 
the bulbs are generally cultivated in pots early in the Spring, 
and transferred to the flower borders as soon as it becomes 
settled warm weather ; for they are very tender. They 
generally succeed very well here, if planted at once in the 
open borders tov.ards the end of April, and produce flowers 
which are pure white, and highly odoriferous, on a stem 
from three to four feet high. 

Tiie bulbs produce a number of ofi'sets, which should be 
preserved with the parent plants through the Winter, and 
then parted oft' and planted by themselves in April or early 
in M-iy, to produce flowering roots for the ensuing year. 
These roots thi-ive best in alight rich soil, well pulverised, 
in which they should be planted about two inehcs deep, not 
forgetting to tate them up again before the approach of 
Winter. 



211 
TIGER FLOWER. 

Perhaps there is no flower treated of in this work, that is 
more beautiful than some of the species of the genus 
Tigridia. Like all Mexican bulbs, these are tender, and 
should either be cultivated in the greenhouse, or carefully 
preserved until settled warm weather, and then planted in 
good light soil, in a sheltered situation. A bed of these 
beautiful flowers would afford as much gratification to sonic, 
amateurs as a bed of Tulips. 

The Tigridia conchijlora is of a rich yellow colour, tinged 
and spotted with white and crimson ; the colours are very 
vivid and finely contrasted. The Tigridia pavonia is of 
the brightest scarlet, tinged and spotted with brilliant yellow. 
The corolla which is about four inches in diameter, is com- 
posed of six petals ; the outer petals are thrown backward, 
and exhibit the blossom in all its splendour, which exists 
only a single day ; but as if to compensate for its transient 
visit, each plant will produce numerous flowers; and where 
a bed of them can be collected, they will amuse their admi- 
rers for several weeks from July to September. In such a 
case, the bulbs may be planted about two inches deep ; say 
nine by fifteen inches apart, towards the end of April 
or early in May, and taken up again in October, to preserve 
for planting the ensuing year. 



212 
OBSERVATIONS 

OV THE 

CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS, 

IN POTS OR GLASSES, IN THE WINTER SEASON. 



The culture of bulbous roots in a greenhouse, or light 
room, during the Winter, is comparatively easy, provided two 
points be attended to; the first is to keep them near the light, 
and to turn the pots or glasses round frequently, to prevent 
their growing crouded ; and the second is, when the plants 
iiave done growing, to give them little or no water; 
for want of. attention to these points, bulbs have been known 
to produce foliage, year after year, without shomng any 
sign of blossoms. 

All bulbs have a certain period of the year in which they 
are in a dormant state ; this, in a state of nature, is invariably 
after the seeds are ripened ; but as in a greenhouse, many of 
this family do not ripen seeds, the cultivator should watch 
the period when the leaves show indications of decay ; at 
which time, the supplies of water should be lessened, and 
shortly afterwards the earth should be suffered to get dry and 
to remain so until the season returns, when the bulbs reger- 
minate. 

Many sorts of bulbs are best kept in pots, under the soil, 
in a dry shady place, and in the same temperature as that 
in which they are in the habit of growing ; but others, such 
as the Hyacinth, Tulip, Narcissus, &.c. may be taken out of 
the soil, and preserved as before directed, until the proper 
season for replanting. 

Dutch bulbous roots intended for blooming in pots during 
the Winter season, should be planted during the months of 
October and November, and be left exposed to the open air 
until it begins to freeze ; and then be placed in the green- 
house, or in a room where a fire is usually made. They 



CtJLTURE OF BtJLBOUS ROOTS IN ROOMS. 2l3 

will need moderate occasional waterings, until they begin to 
grow ; then they should have abundance of air in mild 
weather, and plenty of water from the saucers underneath 
the pots, whilst in a growing state ; and should be exposed 
as much as posible to the sun, air, and light, to prevent the 
foliage from growing too long, or becoming yellow. 

For this purpose, single Hyacinths, and such as are 
designated earliest among the double, are to be preferred. 
Single Hyacinths arc by some held in less estimation than 
double ones, their colours, however, are more vivid, and 
iheir bells, thougli smaller, are more numerous ; some of 
the finer sorts are ex([uisitely beautiful; they are preferable 
for flowering in Winter to most of the double ones, as they 
bloom two or three weeks earlier, and are very sweet scented. 
Roman Narcissus, double Jonquils, Polyanthus Narcissus, 
double Narcissus, and Crocuses, also make a fine appear- 
ance in the parlour during Winter. It is a remarkable 
circumstance of the Crocus, that it keeps its petals expan- 
ded during tolerably bright c:indle or lamplight, in the same 
manner as it does during the light of the sun. If the candle 
be removed, the Crocuses close their petals, as they do in a 
garden when a cloud obscures the sun ; and when the 
artificial light is restored, they open again, as they do with 
the return of the direct solar rays. 

Hyacinths and otherbulbs intended for glasses, should be 
placed in them about the middle of November, the glasses 
being previously filled with pure water, so that the bottom 
of the bulb may jujt touch the water ; then place them for 
the first ten days in a dark room to promote the shooting of 
the roots ; after which expose them to the light and sun as 
»nuch as possible; they will blossom without the aid of the 
sun ; but the colours of the flowers will be inferior. 'J'he 
water should be changed as often as it becomes impure ; 
draw the roots entirely out of the glasses, rinse the fibres in 
clean water, and also the glasses inside ; care should be 
taken not to suffbr the water to freeze, as it not only bursts 
the glasses, but often causes the fibres to decay. Whether 
the water be hard or soft, is of no great consequence ; but 
soft, or rain water, is generally preferred, and it must be 
perfectly clear. 



214 CULTURE OF BULBOUS BOOTS IN ROOMS. 

Forced bulbs are seldom good for any thing afterwards ; 
however, those who wish to preserve them, may immerse 
them wholly in water for a few days ; and then having 
taken them out, and dried them in the shade for a short time, 
they may b3 planted in a good soil, which will sometimes 
cause them to flower the second year. It does not clearly 
appear in what way the water operates when the bulb is 
wholly immersed ; but it is certain that bulbs so treated 
increase in size and solidity, and have an incomparably 
better chance of flowering the second year, than those which 
have not been so treated ; most probably their total immer- 
sion enables them to obtain a greater proportion of oxygen 
from the water. 

Nosegays should have the water in which their ends are 
inserted changed, on the same principle as bulbous roots ; 
and a much faded nosegay, or one dried up, may often be 
recovered for a time, by covering it with a glass bell, or cup, 
or by substituting warm water for cold. 

Very fine Hyacinths have been grown in a drawing-room, 
in the following novel manner. A quantity of moss, classi- 
cally called hypnum, and vulgarly fog, was placed in a 
water-tight box, about eight or nine inches deep, into which 
the bulbs were placed at the end of September, without 
mould and duly watered ; the result of this experiment 
was highly favourable. 



215 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON 

THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT 

OF 

GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



- Having already exceeded my limits, I am compelled to 
be brief in my observations on such ornamental plants as 
are generally cultivated in hot and greenhouses. This 
description of plants embraces those which are collected from 
various climates, and thrive best in a temperature and soil 
similar to that in which nature first produced them : hence 
they who propagate exotic plants, must provide suitable 
composts, and also separate departments, where the differ- 
ent degrees of heat may be kept up according to their 
nature and description. Some of these are raised from seed 
sown in the Spring, others by layers, suckers, and offsets 
detached from the old plants, and many by slips or cuttings, 
planted at different seasons of the year, according to their 
various natures and state of the plants. Many kinds require 
the aid of glass coverings and bottom heat, created by fresh 
horse-dung, tan, &c. See calendar and index. 

Were I to attempt to give directions for the propagation 
of all the varieties of useful and ornamental exotic plants 
cultivated in various parts of our country, it would require 
several volumes. The catalogue of greenhouse plants 
alone, kept by the enterprising proprietor of the Linnean 
Botanic Garden at Flushing, occupies fifty pages of close 
matter ; it would, therefore, be impossible to do justice to 
the subject without dividing upwards of two thousand 
species of plants into classes, and treating of them under 
distinct heads ; I shall, therefore, not attempt in this edition 
to write largely on the subject. 

In order to render this little work useful to those who 



^16 MANAGEMENT OP GIIEEN HOUSE PLANTS. 

may wish to avail themselves of the pleasure of nursing 
some of those beauties of nature in dwelling or green- 
houses, during the most chilling days of our severe Winters, 
and to afford amnsementto the Ladies at a season when our 
gardens are deprived of their loveliest charms, I shall notice 
some essential points connected with the management of 
greenhouse plants, in as explicit a manner as possible, and 
subjoin a brief catalogue of such species as are most gene- 
rally cnltivated, of which there are innumerable varieties; 
descriptions of which, with all the varied features of the 
floral kingdom, may be found in the voluminous works of 
Loudon, Sweet, Chandler, and other English writers.* 

The following hints which were selected for the first 
edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant, appear to tlie 
author to embrace t!ie most important points connected with 
the care of plants in the Winter season. 

Tiie generality of those denominated greenhouse plants, 
and which are kept in rooms, should be placed where they 
can have the light of the sun,' without being exposed to 
frost. Air, heat, and moisture are essential to the growth 
of plants ; but these should be given in due proportions, 



* All the most popular English books on this subject, are imported 
by G. C. Thorburn, No. 11 Jolin Street; amongst which are the 
following : 

"Loudon's Encyclopfedia of Plants," illustrated by engravings and 
with figures of nearly ten thousand species, exemplifying several indi- 
viduals belonging to every genus included in the work. Completed in 
one large volume, 8vo. . . . - . $20,00 

"Loudon's Encycloptedia of Gardening," comprising the Theory and 
Practice of Horticulture, Floricidture, Arboriculture and Landscape 
Gardening; including all the latest improvements. A new edition in 
one large volume, 8vo. closely printed, with upwards of 700 engra- 

Yiugs, - - - - . - . : - . ^12'^^* 

" Chandler (of Loudon) on the Camellia; containing ample directions 
for the cultivation of this fine plant, with a superb plate of all.tlie pieseut 
known varieties in England.; one volume, 4to. - - $45,00 

" Hortus Brittanicus;" a Catalogue of Plants cultivated in the 
gardens of Great Britain, arranged in natural orders, - $3,00 

"The British Flower Garden;" containing coloured figures, and 
descrijDtious of all the most ornamental and curious plants; with their 
scientific and English names ; best method of cultivation and propaga- 
tion : the heights they generally attain ; or any other information res- 
pecting them, that may be considered useful or interesting, by R. 
Sweet, F L. S. &c.. the drawings by E. D. Smith, F- L. S. in 5 volumes, 
8vo. calf, and continued in nmnthly numbers. — A splendid work, $100 



MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 2l7 

according to circumstances. In frosty weather they should 
be kept from the external air, and watered very sparingly. 
When water is necessary, it should be applied in the morn- 
ingof a mild sunny day. The plants should be kept free 
from decayed leaves, and the earth at the top of tl>e pots 
should be sometimes loosened to a moderate depth, arid 
replenished with a portion of fresh compost. 

Plants kept in private houses are often killed with kind- 
ness. The temperature of a room in the Winter, need not 
be more than ten degrees above freezing. If plants are 
healthy they may be kept so by attention to the preceding 
hints ; unhealthiness generally arises from their being 
subjected to the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture, or from 
total neglect. 

In order that the ideas above advanced may be duly 
considered, it may be useful to indulge in a more minute 
description of the nature of plants, and to show in what 
manner the elements operate upon them. It is an acknow- 
ledged fact, that the roots of plants require moisture, and 
therefore penetrate the earth in search of it, and that the 
plants themselves are greatly nourished by air, and spread 
their branches and leaves to catch as much as possible its 
enlivening influence. Light also is so far essential, that 
there can be no colour without it; witness the blanching of 
celery and endive, where the parts deprived of light become 
white ; place a plant in almost any situation, it will invari- 
ably show a tendency to turn to the light ; the sunflower is 
a striking example of this singular fact. As the leaves 
supply tiie plant with air, arid the fibres of the roots with 
nourishment, to strip oft' the leaves or destroy the fibres, is 
to deprive it of part of its means of support. 

Having shown that air and water are essential to vegeta- 
tion, and light to its colour, experience shows us that heat, 
in a greater or less degree, is not less necessary to the growth 
of plants ; it is therefore requisite, that in taking plants into 
our rooms, we should attend to these particulars. 

The internal structure of plants is composed of minute 
and imperceptible pores, which serve the same important 
purpose in the vegetable as veins in the animal system? 

19 



218 MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

they convey the circulation of the sap in the former, as tlie 
veins do the blood in the latter; but it is by no means 
settled as yet by physiologists how the food of plants is taken 
up into the system, and converted into their constituent parts. 

From the foregoing considerations and facts, it is evident, 
that, as air, heat, and moisture, are each essential to vegeta- 
tion, that water should only be given in proportion as heat 
and air are attainable. In the Summer season, greenhouse 
plants may be exposed to the open air, from the early part 
of May, until the end of September, by being placed on the 
ledges of windows, or on a stand erected for the purpose, 
or in the absence of a nursery bed of flowering plants, they 
may be introduced into tlie regular flower-beds, to supply 
the place of such plants as may wither and die in the course 
of a Summer, by being turned out of the pots and planted, 
or plunged in the earth with the pots. 

In the heat of the Summer season, plants generally 
i-equire water every evening, and in the absence of dews, 
the earth about their roots may sometimes need a little in the 
morning; but experience shows, that the roots of plants 
more frequently get injured from being soddened with water, 
than from being kept moderately dry. 

Havhig before intimated that exotic plants will generally 
thrive best in a temperature and soil similar to that in 
which nature first produced them, it may be necessary to 
remind the reader, that we have the means of obtaining 
suitable composts from our own soils, and from sand, 
decayed leaves, rotten dung, and various kinds of peat, bog, 
and rock mould; these ingredients being judiciously mixed 
and prepared, may be suited to all the various kinds of 
plants, and should be used as occasion requires. 

As the roots of plants make considerable, growth in the 
course of a Summer, it will be necessary to examine them 
by turning them out of the pots ; this may be done early in 
September, at whicli time all matted and decayed roots 
should be pared off, and the plants shifted into larger pots, 
which being filled with suitable compost, and watered, will 
be ready for removal into the house on the approach of 
cold nights, which is generally early in October. 



MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



219 



Greenhouse plants require an annual pruning, and should 
be occasionally headed down, in order that their size and 
appearance may be improved ; the best time for doing this 
is soon after they have done flowering, and while they are 
in a growing state. 

Having endeavoured to furnish my readers with the 
artificial means of preserving tender plants in a climate 
foreign to that from which nature first produced them, I shall 
call their attention to another class of plants well calculated 
for the windows of a house. 

I allude to the many beautiful varieties of the Chinese 
Chrysanthemum; these are frequently cultivated in pots, 
and may be taken from the ground and put into pots, even 
when in full flower, without injury, and when the bloom is 
over, returned to the garden. In the Spring following, they 
will tlirow lip an abundance of suckers. 

The following list contains some of the best varieties of 
the Chrysanthemum, and are entitled to a place in every 
flower garden. In October and November, when the waning 
year has left our gardens comparatively cheerless, these, 
with their various colours, deck them out in gaiety, and 
prolong the semblance of Summer. They are perfectly 
hardy, and will brave- our severest Winters. 



From the Catalogue of W. Prince ^ Sons, Flushing, L. I. 



The gold bordered red; 
the petals are red, 
striped with golden 
yellow 

White quilied 

Pale buff, or orange 

Changeable, red and 
orange on same plant 

Lilac quilled. 

Rose-coloured, or pink 

Lilac and white, chan- 
gcablc ; the flowers 
vary to lilac, to ichite 
with a purple centre, 
and to pure white 

Darkcrimson,orSpan- 
ish brown 

Straw coloured quilled 

Golden yellow 

Taeselled White 



Semi-double quilled do 
Paper white 
Q,uilled light purple 
Expanded do do 
Q,uilled yellow 
Double Indian yellow 
Double Indian wliite 
Dark purple 
Early blush 
Goldeii lotus 
Q,uilled purple 
Starry jiurple 
Park's smallyellow^^ne 
Q,ui!led sahnon 
Semidouble quilled 
Pale orange 
Two-coloured red 
Curled buff, orsalmon 
Large lilac 
Late pale purple 



Q,uilled fine yellow 

Sulphur do 

Superb clustered do 

Small do 

Single flame yellow 

Quilled pink 

Q,uilled Orange 

Early crimson 

Curled lilac 

Two coloured incurv'd 

Blush ranunculus 

Late quilled purple 

Tasselled lilac 

Tasselled yellow 

Yellow waratah 

Pale lilac 

Large buff, superb 

Barclay's 

Alton's 

Sabine's, ^ 



220 CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS* 

Chrysanthemumsmay be propagated from seed and cut- 
tings, and each plant will produce several suckers which 
may be separated every Spring, As the flowers are liable to 
be injured by the rain in Autumn, it is advisable to take up 
a few plants, and place them in a light room or greenhouse, 
which will preserve them for some time. 

Many people keep their late blooming plants in the house 
through the Winter ; this is a bad practice, as the heat and 
want of air will exhaust or destroy the plants altogether. 
If the flowers fade before hard frost prevails, it is best either 
to plunge the pots, into the ground with tlie plants, or to turn 
them out of the pots, and plant them, with the balls of earth 
entire, into the borders of the flower garden. 

Early in May, such as may be intended for potting the 
ensuing season, should be divided at the roots, if not potted 
and planted, each kind separate. One single stem is sufB- 
cient for a moderate sized pot, if the object be to have bushy 
plants ; but if showy plants are desired, one of each of the 
varied colours may be selected for each pot, which should be 
sufficiently capacious to hold them without crowding them, 
as this will cause the plants to grow weak and slender. If 
such happens early in the Summer, a stocky growth may be 
produced by clipping the tops, and they will bloom in great 
perfection in their usual season. 



INTRODUCTION TO THE 

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

To promote brevity, and avoid tautology, I here submit 
the following statement : 

That the directions accompanying our catalogue of 
Annual, Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds, will apply 
to such plants in the green-house department as are ordi- 
narily raised from seed. 

That the directions annexed to the catalogue of Flower- 
ing and Ornamental Shrubs, for propagation by cuttings, 
layers, &c., are applicable to a great proportion of the 



CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 281 

plants hereinafter described, and that the exceptions are 
shown in the monthlj calendar. 

That such Bulbous roots as are generally embraced in 
Greenhouse Catalogues, from their being adapted to artifi- 
cial culture, have been already treated of, under each head, 
in numerous articles ; to which the reader is referred. 

That with the exception of Hot-house plants, which re- 
quire a uniformly warm climate to perpetuate their exist- 
ence, all such other tender and half hardy plants as need 
protection in Winter, may come under the denomination of 
Greenhouse Plants ; some species however, notwithstanding 
this concession, may be preserved in frames, pits, cellars, or 
warm rooms. 

That many of those species designated thus, § and 
thus j in our two first catalogues, are of such description ; 
and as they have been treated of in the chapters thereto an- 
nexed, the following catalogue and explication will be 
necessarily brief, when compared with one general Catalogue 
of exotic plants. 



Acacia. Of this and the 3Iimosa, which are by some con- 
sidered as one genus, there are upwards of a hundred spe- 
cies and varieties, suited for artificial culture. The blossoms 
which are generally straw colour and yellow, except the 
most tender, some of which are crimson, succeed each 
other from February to June. 

Agapanthus. A beautiful species of Lily, producing large 
blue flowers from April to June ; some varieties have striped 
leaves and delicate white blossoms. 

Aloe. Of this genus, there are numerous species and 
varieties, some of which are very curious, being possessed of 
all the varied forms and^gures peculiar to succulent plants. 
Some species flower annually from March to September, 
and all, except the. Century Aloe, blossom frequently; the 
colours are generally yellow, pink, and red. The singular 
figure and habit of these plants render them desirable for 
greenhouse culture. 

19* 



222 CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

Arbutus. European Strawberry tree. A half-hardy ever- 
green shrub, of which there are several species and varieties, 
producing crimson and pink blossoms, and fruit, which 
remain on the plant a considerable time. 

Ardesia. Chinese Ardesia. This is generally cultivated 
as a hot-house plant; and, if kept in the greenhouse, should 
be placed in a warm situation. There are several species, 
producing oblong shining leaves, pink flowers and red ber- 
ries, which are very ornamental. 

Aster argophyllus. Musk Plant. A plant of no great 
beauty, but esteemed by some for its musky fragrance ; 
leaves ovate, lanceolate, and silky beneath. 

Aucuha Japonica. A half-hardy shrub, with pale green 
leaves spotted with yellow. It produces small purple blos- 
soms, but is desirable for its foliage only : to preserve 
which in good condition, shade in the Summer is absolutely 
necessary. 

Azalea. The Chinese species of Azalea are numerous 
and beautiful, producing blossoms of various hues, as white, 
purple, scarlet, yellow, &c., and some are striped and spot- 
ted, which succeed each other from February to May,under 
good cultivation. 

BanTisia. A genus of plants named in honour of Sir 
Joseph Banks, of which there are over twenty species, all 
curious in flower, and variable in foliage ; colours, yellow 
and green. They generally blossom from May to August. 

Beaufortia. There are two species of this beautiful 
shrub, yielding scarlet and pink flowers from the sides of 
their stalks, from May to July. 

BcUis percnnls.' Daisy. This half-hardy dwarf species 
of which there are several varieties, as recorded in our Peren- 
nial Catalogue, are worthy of further notice, from their yield- 
ing thousands of button-formed flowers from January to July, 
or until checked by the Summer4ieat, from which they 
should be screened, by being planted in a shaded border 
in tiie Spring. The colours are white, red and variegated, 
and some, called hen and chicken Daisies, grow in clusters. 

Bletia taiikervillL A delicate plant, producing spikes of 
purple flowers, similar to the Hyacinth, from April to July. 



CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 223" 

Boiivardia. Mexican Bouvardia. A beautiful plant, pro- 
ducing brilliant scarlet flowers from May to September, 
when carefully cultivated. 

Boronia. There are several species of this plant, natives of 
New Holland; the flowers of some are star-like, rose-coloured 
and sweet-scented ; at perfection in April and May. 

Burchellia. A dwarf evergreen shrub, producing orange 
coloured flowers in large terminale clusters, from March to 
June. 

Cactus. Of this family of plants there are numerous spe- 
cies supposed to be of different genei'a, from the variation of 
theii" character and habits. They belong to the hot-house, 
but succeed well in a warm room or good greenhouse. 
Some are formed into erect pyramids, others are of a trailing 
habit, and all produce from the sides of their succulent 
stalks and leaves, beautiful crimson, white, or pink flowers, 
from March to August. 

Calceolaria. Of this species of delicate dwarf plants, there 
are several splendid varieties annually raised from seed ; 
producing red, yellow and orange coloured-flowers from 
April to August, when shaded from the noonday Sun ; they 
will otherwise suffer from heat. 

Calotliamniis. A beautiful evergreen shrub, similar to a 
dwarf pine, producing scarlet blossoms from the old wood, 
from April to November. 

Callicoma serratij 'dia. A beautiful plant, producing tufted 
yellow heads of flowers from May to July. 

Camellia. Of this admired Winter-blooming genus of 
plants, there are several distinct species, the varieties from 
many of which multiply annually. Its durable glossy fo- 
liage, and splendid flovvers, which excel those of any 
other plant, will insure it a pre-eminence in every greenhouse; 
as in good collections, flowers of various hues may be 
gathered, from October to May. 

Cheiranthus. Under this title have been generally embra- 
ced all those fragrant and beautiful Ijalf-hardy species of 
Biennial Plants, known as Wall and Gilliflowers ; the lat- 
ter species is now however denominated Mathiola in our 
catalogues. The beautiful blossoms and delicious fragranc e. 



S24 CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

of these families, from February to June, entitle them to 
more than a passing notice. Their perfumes are exquisite. 

Cineraria cruenta. Canary Aster. A dwarf half-shrub- 
by plant, producing purple blossoms in April and Blay. 

Cineraria maritima. Silvery-leaved Ragwort, or Powder- 
ed Beau. A white plant, producing bright yellow globular 
flowers from April to June or July. 

Cistiis. Rock Rose. A half-hardy dwarf shrub, of 
which there are upwards of twenty species natives of Eu- 
rope ; the flowers, which are white and purple, multiply 
abundantly in May and June. 

Citrus. Orange, Lemon, &c. This genus embraces the 
Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shaddock, &c. of each of which 
there are several vareties. They are indispensable in a 
good greenliouse, for their handsome evergreen foliage, 
most ordoriferous blossoms, and beautiful golden fruit, 
which by careful cultivation may be kept constantly on the 
plants. Those varieties with variegated, yellow and green 
foliage, are very generally admired. 

Clethra arborea variegata. A fine sweet-scented shrub, 
producing spikes of white downy blossoms; the leaves are 
oblong and serrated, having a gold-coloured edge. 

Correa. A genus of dwarf shrubby plants, consisting of 
several species, producing their orange, white, red and 
green blossoms frequently in the Winter, and sometimes in 
May or June. 

Coronilla glauca. A desirable greenhouse dwarf shrub, 
yielding numerous sweet-scented yellow flowers in clusters ; 
from January to April. There are other varieties which 
blossom in Summer. 

Cotyledon orhiculata. Gape Navelwort. A succulent 
plant, producing finger-like suckers and successional joints, 
wliich blossom annually ; the curiosity of the foliage, how- 
ever, is its chief recommendation. 

Crassiila. A species of dwarf succulent plants, produ- 
cing scarlet and variegated wax-like flowers ; from April to 
June or July. 

Crinum amabile. A large beautiful flowering bulb, of 
which there are several species, chiefly calculated, for hot- 



CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 225 

house culture, where some varieties frequently yield three 
stems of beautiful crimson, purple or white flowers, in a 
year. 

Daphne odora. A beautiful dwarf evergreen shrub, 
yielding white fragrant blossoms in many-flowered terminal 
heads, from December to March. There are other species 
and varieties, one of which has its leaves edged with 
yellow. 

Dianthus. Under this name is embraced all the admira- 
ble species of Carnations, Picotees, Pinks, Sweet Wil- 
liams, &c., recorded in our catalogue of Perennials ; and 
which are in universal esteem for their fragrance and beauty, 
from May to August; They are all hardy, except the Car- 
nation and Picotee tribes, which are well deserving green- 
house or frame culture. 

Diosma. A dwarf genus of heath-leaved shrubs, producing 
numerous small flowers of a white lilac or pink colour ; some 
varieties of which are sweet-scented, from March to May. 

Dryandrus. To this genus belong several species; similar 
to the JBanksias; they are delicate plants, producing orange 
and straw-coloured thistle-like flowers in abundance. 

Epacris. This is a native of New South Wales, of which 
there are several species, mostly erect growing plants, 
varying from two to four feet; the leaves are small, and the 
blossoms which in the varieties are crimson, pink, purple 
and white, are, under good cultivation, abundant from 
January to June. 

Erica. Heath. Upwards of five hundred species and 
varieties of this plant are cultivated in Great Britain, where 
a continued succession of bloom is kept up from January to 
December; the most prominent colours are wliite, scarlet, 
purple, yellow and red. They are desirable plants to culti- 
vate in any country, as they furnish material for the bouquet 
in Winter, but they must be screened from the noon-day 
Sun in Summer, and only moderately watered ; as extremes 
of drought or moisture are destructive to this family of plants. 

Erythrina. Cora! Plant. There are several species of 
this plant, chiefly adapted to the hot-house, producing long 
spikes of crimson or scarlet flowers. Some keep them in. 



226 CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

good condition in a greenhouse ; they must, however, be 
well attended to, and frequently repotted, which will some- 
times induce them to bloom two or three times in a year. 

Eup1ioi-hia. There are several species of this plant 
adapted to tlie greenhouse; some of which are beautiful, 
especially the E.sjjlcjidens and Poinsett's, scarlet bachyt'd, 
or Euphorbia poinsetti. They flower freely from December 
to May, if kept in a warm part of the house. 

Eupatorium elcgans. A dwarf plant, producing white 
sweet-scented flowers early in the Spring ; to promote bushi- 
ness, the plant, after blossoming, should be closely pruned. 

Eutaxia myrtifolia. A beautiful little evergreen shrub ; 
foliage small, but very neat, furnisliing numerous red and 
yellow-coloured blossoms from March to May, under good 
culture. 

Ficus elastica. India-rubber tree, and Ficus austraJis, 
are both evergreen plants, and grow luxuriantly in a green- 
house ; the foliage, which is large and glossy, is pink on the 
under side. 

Ficus. Fig Tree. A plant easily cultivated, of Avhich 
there are many species and varieties, which kept in pots or 
tubs, in a temperature adapted to the Orange tree, will fruit 
freely, and ripen two crops a year. 

Fuchsia. Ladies Ear-drop. Of this beautiful dwarf 
shrub, there are several varieties, producing clusters of 
small scarlet flowers, the stamens of which are encircled 
with a petal of purple ; in bloom from April to September. 

Gardenia. Cape Jasmine. A very popular evergreen 
plant, producing white fragrant rose-like flowers, from Maj 
to August. There are several species and varieties, some 
of which are more dwarfish than others, but all are desirable. 

Gelsemium nitidum. Carolina Jasmine. A beautiful 
climbing evergreen, producing in the month of May, large 
yellow trumpet-like blossoms, of delicious fragrance. 

Gloxinia. A desirable herbaceous plant, of which there 
are several varieties, yielding beautiful showy flowers; colours 
blue, lilac and white. 

Gnapalium. Everlasting Flower. Of this plant there. 



CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 22t 

are several species or varieties, some of which yield clusters 
of yellow flowers, and others red ; from March to June. 

Gnidia, Fiax-leaved Gnidia. A dwarf shrub, of which 
there are several varieties, furnishing pretty tubular and 
corymbose straw-coloured flowers in the Winter and Spring. 

Heliotropium. Peruvian Heliotrope. A species of soft 
shrubby dwarf plants, which, when cultivated in a warm 
situation, will yield abundance of delicate blue or purple 
flowers ; from January to September. 

Helychrijsum. Eternal Flower. There are several spe- 
cies and varieties of this plant, producing -soft downy 
foliage and durable flowers, which, if cut before they are too 
far advanced, will retain their splendour several years. 

Hibiscus Chinensis. This half-hardy herbaceous plant 
is worthy of a place in the greenhouse, as some species 
will yield flowers six inches in diameter, if well attended to 
and frequently watered; the colours are crimson and blush. 

Hoya. Wax Plant. A fine climbing species, adapted to 
the hot-house, the leaves being succulent, green and fleshy, 
requfre considerable heat and but little water. Some pro- 
duce pink flowers, and others white, in April and May. 

Hydrangea hortensis. The Hydrangea is a well known 
deciduous half-hardy soft-wooded shrub, producing large 
pink balls of blossom, when cultivated in a shaded border, 
from May to October; and by mixing iron dust from a 
blacksmith's shop with the soil, or by growing the plants in 
swamp earth, or mould from decayed leaves, the flowers 
will become blue. 

Hypericum. St.John's-wort. A half hardy little plant, 
producing yellow flowers from April to June. There are 
several species, some producing scarlet blossoms. 

lllicium. Aniseed Tree. A dwarf species of shrub, the 
leaves of which when rubbed, smell like anise; some pro- 
duce red, and others yellow flowers, in March and April. 

Indigofera. Indigo Tree. A free-flowering shrub, of 
which there are several species ; the flowers, which grow 
in long panacles, are red, yellow and pink. 

Jasminum. Jasmine. Of this favourite genus, there are 
several species of various complexions. The Catalonian Jas- 



^28 CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

mine, or J. grandijlorum, produces white fragrant blossoms in 
Winter; the Indian Jasmine, or J^, odo7-atissimum, and also 
the J- rcvohitum, yield very sweet- scented yellow flowers - 
from April to June, and tlie J. officinale, a climbing planti 
blossoms through the Summer. 

Justicia. 'I'he plants of this genus are generally cultiva- 
ted in the liot-house ; some produce scarlet flowers in large 
terminale spikes, from December to March, and others purple. 

Kcnncdia. A beautiful evergreen climber, of which there 
are several species, producing bloss.oms of various hues, as 
scarlet, blue, crimson, and purple, from February to June. 

Lagcrstr(Fmia. A half-hardy deciduous plant, the roots 
of which planted in the garden in March, will produce large 
spikes of red flowers, from May to August. 

Lantana. A genus of dwarf shrubs, which being culti* 
vatcd in the hot-house, or a warm grcenhousc,will yield their 
l)losso»ns in April and May ; the species are of various 
colours ; yellow, orange, pink, white, purple, and variable. 

Lauras noh'dis. Laurel. This evergreen shrub is by 
some esteemed for its fragrant leaves ; there are severjj spe- 
cies designated as sweet bay, royal bay, &c. and some spe- 
cies are without scent. 

Lavcndida. Lavender. A species of soft- wooded half 
hardy plants with narrow scented leaves, yielding spikes of 
fragrant blue flowers in May and June. 

I-iCchenaultia formosa. A dwarf plant with heath-like 
foliage and bright scarlet blossoms; in bloom a long season, 
under good culture. 

LiCptospcrmum. This genus is somewhat celebrated from 
the leaves of the species L. sco/;«/-wm being used by thecrew 
of Captain Cook's ship as a substitute for Tea, the leaves 
having an agreeable bitter flavour ; the blossoms which are 
small, are white. 

Lcucadtndron. Silver Tree. A neat evergreen shrub 
with silvery-like foliage, of which there are several species, 
all admirable for their beauty. 

Linum. Flax. Two species of this plant are worthy of 
cultivation in a greenhouse, where they will bloom in Feb- 
riiary and March. The Linum irigynum produces large 



CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 229 

yellow flowers in clusters, and Linum ascyrifolium yields 
spikes of blue and white flowers, which are similar to those 
of the Convolvulus. 

Lychnis coronata. Corontt-flowered Lychnis. This 
half-hardy plant, embraced in our catalogue of Perennials, is 
worthy of protection; from its furnishing numerous beautiful 
orange scarlet flowers, from June to August. As it yields 
no seed, the roots should be taken from the garden in 
Autumn, and returned tlie ensuing Spring. 

Magnolia. Most of the species of this justly-adrnired 
genus are hardy, and blossom in the Summer; there are, how- 
ever, some of the Chinese varieties, which cultivated in a 
greenhouse, will produce their beautiful purple, yellow and 
white blossoms, from January to April. 

Melaleucas. A beautiful genus of plants, natives of New 
Holland ; the diversity of their foliage and singularity of 
flowers, some of which arc scarlet, and shoot from the wood 
like fringes, render them worthy of good cultivation. 
' Mesemhryanthcmum. A genus of succulent plants, con- 
sisting of hundreds of species and varieties, chiefly natives of 
the Cape of Good Hope. They vary greatly in their forms, 
attitudes, and habits of growth ; some are upright, others pro- 
cumbent, some are thick, others cimeter or slender-leaved. 
They are ail singular, and many of them beautiful. The co- 
lours of the flower.-?, which are of every shade, are great orna- 
ments from May to August ; some species and varieties are 
cultivated as Annuals in the Flower Garden, where they 
prove a great accpiisition. 

Mefrosideros. A genus of Australasian shrubs, some 
species of which are willow and others tpear-leaved, produ- 
cing their cones of scarlet or wliite flowers, from March to 
May. 

My litis. Myrtle. A genus of dwarf evergreen shrubs, 
of which there are several species and varieties ; the foliage 
is chiefly glossy and fragrant, yielding ' numerous small 
flowers. There are some species known as Cape Myrtles, 
or Myrsines, which alao yield abundance of white and 
purple fl)wers from March to May. 

Nandina dotnestica. Japan Nandina. A half-hardy ever- 

20 



230 CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

greea shrub ; leaves supra-decompound, with entire lanceo- 
late leaflets ; a kind of foliage thai is very rare. 

Nerium. Oleander. A well-known and admired shrub, 
yielding clusters of rose-like flowers from May to September. 
The Nerium splendcns is the most esteemed of the red varie- 
ties ; the true double white and striped are very rare ; but 
some of those cultivated for sale, producing semi-double 
flowers, are by no means desirable. 

Oleafi'agrance. Dwarf Olive. This variety of the Olive 
recommends itself to notice, for its dwarf habit of growth, 
and from the foliage and white blossoms being highly odo- 
riferous, from March to May. 

Passijlora. Passion flower. Of this celebrated genus of 
climbing plants there are several species and varieties, which 
produce splendid flowers of various colours, red, blue, white, 
purple, scarlet, &c. beautifully contrasted, and some species 
yield fruit. They generally blossom from May to Septem- 
ber, and some will flower in the hot-house in Winter. 

Pelargonium. Geranium. The species and varieties of 
this beautiful genus is supposed to exceed a thousand, which 
are of every chai'acter, colour, and lineament, and some so 
beautifully blended as to astonish the beholder ; the agree- 
able fragrance also, of which many of them are possessed, 
will always render them favourites to amateur florists. The 
best blooming season, is from April, to June or July. 

Pittospurum. A Chinese evergreen shrub, with hand- 
some glossy foliage, yielding numerous white clusters of 
flowers in April and May, which are of delicious fragrance. 
There are several species, one of which is variegated. 

Plumbago capensis. Cape Plumbago. A beautiful dwarf 
plant, with oblong leaves, yielding numerous spikes of showy 
blue flowers nearly all the Sumgier. 

Polygata cordati. Heart-shaped Polygata. A beautiful 
little plant, producing abundance of rich purple flowers 
nearly all the Winter. 

Protea. A beauliful race of pla^jts, the foliage of which 
is very diversified, and the flowers also ; being red, white, 
straw, brown, green and purple, and most of these colours 
are frequently to be seen on the same plant ; from March 
to June. 



CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 231 

Primula. In this genus are embraced all the varieties of 
the Primrose, Polyanthus, Auricula, Cowslip, Oxlip, &c. 
already inserted in our Biennial and Perennial catalogues. 
The flowers, which appear early in Spring, are mostly 
sweet-scented, and of various colours, red, white, yellow, 
lilac, purple, crimson, &.C., which in some are beautifully 
variegated. The above are natives of England ; besides 
which are two varieties, white and pink, natives of China, 
producing umbels of flowers ; from January to May. 

Pyrus Japonica alba, or Cydonia Japonica. One of the 
earliest flowering dwarf shrubs of the garden, producing 
beautiful blush flowers ; there is another variety, which pro- 
duces scarlet blossoms, already described in our catalogue 
of shrubs as an evergreen, which is a mistake, they being 
both deciduous shrubs. 

Reseda. Mignonette. This fragrant little plant has 
been already treated of as an annual; it may, however, be 
kept under cultivation from January to December, by 
sowing seed at different seasons in a greenhouse or warm 
room. 

Rhododendron. Rose Bay. A beautiful genus of plants, 
chiefly natives of India, furnishing clusters of flowers of 
various shades, as purple, scarlet or crimson, and these 
variegated in spots and flakes ; from March to May. 

Rosea. Rose. This Queen of Flowers, so universally 
admired, nature seems to have distributed over the whole 
civilized world ; and varieties have been so multiplied o* 
late years, as to render it difficult to make a judicious choice ; 
many of the new varieties, however, being shy bloomers; are 
not so desirable for greenhouse culture as the common 
China Rose, a select assortment of which, carefully cultiva- 
ted, will produce blossoms from Januarj-" to December. 

Rosmarinus. Rosemary. A fragrant half.hardy slender 
leaved plant, which has been held in great esteem for ages. 
In some parts of Europe it is customary to distribute 
sprigs amongst the guests, at weddings and funerals. 

Ruella. A desirable plant, of which there are several 
species ; they produce purple or scarlet tunnel-shaped flow- 
ers ; from December to March. 



232 CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

Salvia. Mexican Sage. A free-blooming plant, produ- 
cing in the different species, scarlet and blue flowers in 
spiked whorls; cuttings of which, if taken from stock plants 
in the greenhouse, early in Spring,and planted in good gar- 
den soil, will embellish the borders three or four months of 
the Summer. 

Scmpervirum arkoreum. Treehouse leek. A succulent 
plant, simitar to the common house-leek, on a dwarfish 
stem; by some admired as an evergreen. 

Stapelia. A genus of dwarf succulent plants, producing 
beautiful purple, striped, freckled and star-like flowers, 
within six inches of the surface; in its varieties from May to 
November. 

Stevia serrata. Vanilla-scented Stevia. This plant, 
although usually cultivated as an annual, is worthy of 
greenhouse culture, from its affording fragrant and orna- 
mental materials for bouquets the whole Winter. 

Strelitzia regina. Queen's strelitz. A beautiful dwarf 
plant, producing from a stalk from one to two feet long, 
several flowers of a bright yellow, contrasted with blue ; from 
May to September. 

Tecoma copcnsis. A perennial plant, producing 
orange-coloured trumpet flowers in clusters; very similar to 
the Bigonia tribe, towards the end of Summer. 

Thca. Tea. Of this celebrated Chinese plant, which 
supplies a great proportion of the human family with their 
domestic beverage, there arc two varieties. Thea virdis 
and Thea bohea. The plants when cultivated in a greenhouse, 
are by no means of rapid growth, nor are the flowers which 
are white, of any great beauty. 

Tussilago fragrance. A half-hardy herbaceous Peren- 
nial plant, by some much esteemed for its heliotrope 
scented blossoms, which spring up in clusters from De- 
cember to March. 

Verheri'i ti-ipliylla, named in some catalogues*, Aloysa 
citriodora. A deciduous shrub, generally admired for the 
fragrance of its leaves, which is its chief recommendation, 
the blossoms which are white, being small. 

Verbena. Splendid Verbena. A tribe of plants increas- 



CATALOGUE OP «REENHOUSE PLANTS. 233 

ing in variety annually, and which already embrace every 
shade of colour, scarlet, blue, rose, lilac, white, pink, &c. 
Planted in the flower borders, they impart beauty and 
variety through the Summer, and cultivated in the green- 
house, they embellish it a great part of the Winter. 

Viburnum tinus. Laurustinus, A much-admired half 
hardy evergreen shrub, producing clusters of white blossoms 
from January to May. There are other species very 
similar in habit, and one with striped leaves. 

Viola. Violet. Of those beauties of the garden, some 
of which are denominated " Florist's Flowers," there are 
upwards of a hundred species and varieties. The early 
Violets are highly fragrant, and the variety and beauty of 
the Pansey tribe, almost exceed description or conception. 
As these splendid dwarf plants decorate the greenhouse and 
flower borders from January to December, they are worthy 
of careful cultivation. 

Yucca, aloe.folia, and its beautiful variety, variegata, are 
desirable plants to cultivate, from their singular appearance, 
contrasted with other plants. Their blossoms, which 
are white, grow in spikes, but the plants do not flower much 
until several years old. 



ft^ The annexed article, entitled the Matrimonial Gar- 
den, is respectfully submitted as an appendage to the 
Flewer Garden, sy the author. 

20* 



234 

THE 

— QOO— 

Man is formed for social onjovuunt, nnd if it be allowed 
tlint " it is not gooil for uiiiii lo lu> aloiir," it may be justly 
iiifonvd that it is not gtjod tliat woman sboulil bo alonc^ 
liencc 11 union of interests indicatos a union of persons for 
tboir niulual bonolit. My ibis union, a sort of socbision 
from the rost of our spooio^s tak«»s phioo ; and as a s>ardon 
13 u retired aparlnuMit, appropriated to culture and im- 
provement, tbe married state may not be inaptly compared 
wiib it in many respects. 

It is good ami lionourable for the luiman species, pru- 
dently and cautiously to approach this delightful enclosure. 
Its entrance in general is extremely gay nnd glittering, 
being strewed with tlowers of every hue ami every fragrance, 
calculated to charm the eye an. I pK'ase the taste ; but ibcy 
ftre not nil so ; and as tliero are many piMsons who may 
wish to enter this gardtMi at some time or other, who are yet 
strangers to its vario\is proilneiions, their attention should 
be directeil to the ciihivalion oi' those plants which are 
luMiellcial, and lo the avoiding or rooting up of those which 
are injurious. 

And tirst, let me caution adventurers in this garden not 
to dream o( pcrtnanrnt liap[>iness ; if you should so dream, 
experience will soon make ytm wiser, as such happiness 
never existed but in visionary beads. If you are desirous 
that this garden slunild yield you all the bliss of which it is 
capable, you nuisl take with yon that excellent tlower called 
ooon uiMovu, which, td' all the tlowers o\' nature, is the 
most ilelicions and delicate ; d(» not dro|) it or h>se it, as 
nianv k\o soon at'ter they eniv-r the garden — it is a treasure 
that nothing can supply the loss ol". When yon get to the 
end of the lirst walk, which contains about thirty stops, 
commonly called "tbe Honey Moon l*ttth," you will find 
tbe garden open into a vast variety of views, and it i* 



MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 235 

necesstary to caution you to avoid many productions in them 
which are noxious, nauseous, and even fatal in their nature 
and tendency, especiallv to tlie ignorant and unwary. 
There is a low, small plant, which may be seen in almost 
every path, called indifference. — This, though not per- 
ceived in the entrance, you will always know where it 
grows, by a c^jrtain coldness in the air which surrounds it. 
Cantrary to the nature of plants in general, this grows by 
cold and dies by warmth ; whenever you perceive this 
change in the air, avoid tiio place as soon as you can. In 
the same path is often found that baneful flower called 
JKALousv, which I advise you never to look at, for it has the 
strange quality of smiting the eye that beholds it with a 
pain that is seldom or never got rid of. Jealousy is a 
deadly flower ; it is the aconite of the garden, and has 
imirred the hajjpiness of thousands. 

As you proceed, you will meet with many little crooked 
paths. I advise you as a friend, never to go into them ; 
for although at the entrance of each, it is written in large 
letters, i am rigut, if you do enter, and get to the end of 
them, you will find the true name to bo peuterseness. 
These crooked paths occasion endless disputes, and as it is 
diflicult to make the crooked straight, it is better to avoid 
them altogether, lest, as it sometimes happens, a total sepa- 
ration be the consequence, and you take difl'erent paths the 
rest of your lives. Near this spot, you will meet with a 
rough, sturdy plant, called obstinacv, which bears a hard 
knotty fruit that never digests, and of course must injure 
the constitution; it even becomes fatal, when taken in large 
quantities. Turn from it, avoid it as you would the 
cholera. 

Just opposije to this, grows that Ibvely and lively shrub, 
called compliance, which, though not always pleasant to 
the palate, is very salutary, and leaves a sweetness in the 
mouth ; it is a most excellent shrub, and produces the 
most delicious fruit. — Never be without a very large sprig 
in your hand ; it will often be wanted as you go along, for 
you cannot be happy without it in any part of the garden. 
In one of the principal compartments, stands a very im- 



236 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 

portant plant, called economy ; it is of a thriving quality ; 
cultivate this fine plant with all your care ; for it adorns 
and enriches at the same time. Many overlook it, some 
despise it, and others think that they will never want it ; 
it is generally overlooked in the gaiety and levity with which 
people enter this place, but the want of it is generally 
deplored with bitter repentance. There are \yro other 
plants of the same species, which are very closely connected, 
called rNDUSTRY and frugality, and I mnst take leave to 
tell you, that unless both the male and the female partake 
largely of their branches, very little success can be expected ; 
in this they must both unite. Take care that you provide 
yourself and partner with a supply of each as soon as pos- 
sible after you enter the garden. 

There are two or three paths which run much into one 
another, and deserve the closest attention of the softer sex ; 
I mean rbgularity, exactness, and simplicity.* Do not 
think, as some do, that when you have once got into the 
garden, you may be neglectful of these paths. Remember 
that your companion will see your neglect, which will affect 
his eye, and may alieriate his heart. Enter on these depart- 
ments, then, as soon as you enter the garden, and when 
you are once fairly in, you are in for life ; the danger is 
that if you do not get into them at an early period, you will 
not find them afterwards.. Near these walks is to be found 
that modest plant, called humility; 

It is the Vielet, " born to blush unseen, 
And waste its sweetness on the desert air." 

It appears of little worth in itself, but when joined with 
other virtues, it adds a charm to life, and spreads a fragrance 
around its wearer. Cultivate, then, with all your care, this 
sweet little plant, and you will find it prevent the growth of 
all poisonous and noxious weeds. 

Allow me also to drop a hint on the subject of cultiva- 
tion, as connected with propagation, as that most probably 
will be your employment in this garden, sooner or later. 
Should you have the rearing of a young plant, remember 

* In deportment as well as in dress. 



THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 237 

that it is frail in its nature, and liable to be destroyed by 
every blast, and will demand all your care and attenlion. 
Should jou witness a blast on its dawning beauties, 
Oh ! how your fond heart will bleed with tenderness, affec- 
tion, and sympathy ! The young shoot will naturally twine 
around all the fibres of your frame. Should it live and 
thrive, spare no pains to " train it up in the way it should 
go." Weed it, water it, prune it ; it will need all the cul- 
tivator's skill. Without this, many weeds and baneful 
plants will grow up with it, and blast your fondest hopes. 
Be ever mindful that this is a trust for which both parties 
are accountable. 

Without careful cultivation, what can you expect but the 
most luxuriant growth of unruly appetites, which, in time, 
will break forth in all manner of disgraceful irregularities 1 
What, but that anger, like a prickly thorn, will arm tho 
temper with an untractable moroseness ? That peevish- 
ness, like a slinging nettle, will render the conversation 
irksome and forbidding "? That avarice, like some choking 
weed, will teach the fingers to gripe, and the hands to op- 
press 2 That revenge, like some poisonous plant, replete 
with baneful juices, will rankle in the breast, and meditate 
mischief to its neighbour. While unbridled lusts, like 
swarms of noisome insects, taint each rising thought, and 
render "every imagination of the heart only evil continu- 
ally ?" Such are the usual products of unrestrained nature ! 
Such the furniture of the uncultivated mind ! 

By all means, then, pay due attention to culture. By 
suitable discipline, clear the soil; by careful instruction, 
implant the seeds of virtue. By skill and vigilance, prune 
the unprofitable and over-luxuriant branches : — '' direct the 
young idea how to shoot," — the wayward passions how to 
move. The mature man will then become the chief orna- 
ment of the garden. Around him charity will breathe her 
sweets, and in his branches hope expand her blossoms 
In him the personal virtues will display their graces, and the 
social ones their fruit — the sentiments become generous, 
the carriage endearing, the life useful, and the end happy 
and peaceful. 



238 



'l?IilC2)IS"'sg'IIIS'S ©SSF MIliIBIBn^©ISo 



"Marriage is to a woman at once the happiest and the 
saddest event of her hfe ; it is the promise of future bHss, 
raised on the death of all present enjoyment. She quits her 
home, her parents, her companions, her occupations, her 
amusements, every thing on which she has hitherto depen- 
ded for comfort, for affection, for kindness, for pleasure. 
The parents by whose advice she has been guided, the sister 
to whom she has dared impart every embryo thought or 
feeling, the brother who has played with her, by turns the 
counsellor and the counselled, and the younger children to 
whom she has hitherto been the mother and the playmate, 
all are to be forsaken at one fell stroke ; every former tie is 
loosened, the spring of every hope and action is to be chan- 
ged ; and yet she flies with joy into the untrodden path be- 
fore her; buoyed up with the confidence of requited love, 
she bids a fond and grateful adieu to the life that is past, 
and turns with excited hopes and joyous anticipation of the 
happiness to come. Then wo to him who can blight such 
fair hopes — who can treacherously lure such a heart from 
its peaceful enjoyment, and the watchful protection of home 
— who can coward-like, break the illusions that have won 
her, and destroy the confidence which love had inspired. 
Wo to him who has too early withdrawn the tender plant 
from the props and stays of moral discipline in which she 
has been nurtured, and yet make no effort to supply their 
place; for on him be the responsibility of her errors — on 
him who has first taught her, by his example, to grow care- 
less of herduty, and then exposed her with a weakened spirit, 
and unsatisfied heart, to the wide storms and the wily 
temptations of a vicious world." — Ladies' Companion. 



239 



OBSERVATIONS 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD- 



In my preliminary obsei*vations on the subjects I have 
hitherto treated on, I am aware that it may appear to some, 
that I have not sufficiently urged the importance of a 
judicious selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil, Sec. 
My object in not insisting on a strict attention to these 
important points was, because I know, that though good 
land is abundant in this extensive country, it is impossible 
for every one to choose for himself; and rather than any 
disadvantages in these respects, should discourage pro- 
prietors of land from attempting to raise garden products, 
so necessary to the comfort and convenience of every 
family, I have endeavoured to show them how to use to 
advantage whatever land may surround their places ©f 
abode. As, however, some have a choice, it may be ne- 
cessary to offer some further remarks on the subject. 

The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should be 
one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and 
is well exposed to the South, also to incline a little to the 
East, and South-west. When the situation is low and close 
the trees are very liable to become mossy, which always 
injures them, by closing up the pores of the wood ; they are 
also more liable to be affected by blight. Although having 
an Orchard closely pent up by trees, &c., is injurous, 
nevertheless a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from 
the fruit trees, as that the latter will not be shaded by them, 
is of very great service in protecting the trees in Spring from 
severe cold windis. 



na 



OBSERVATIONS ON THfi 



A good Strong loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture, to 
tJie depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable for an 
Orchard. Great attention must be paid to the substratum, 
so that the ground is well drained, for if the top soil be ever 
so good and the bottom be wet, it is a very rare case to find 
that the trees will prosper for many years, before they begin 
to be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably 
necessary to the success of fruit trees that the bottom be dry, 
if it be not naturally so, it must be made so, by judicious 
draining. 

When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draining, 
it must be done for some time before the trees are planted. 
In performing this work, the ground must be trenched, and 
when the trench is open, stone, or brick-bats, &cc. must be 
laid, over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little 
coal ashes, or small gravel, must be sprinkled over the top 
of the stones, &.©., and then the surface be gently rofled. 
Also drains may be made in different directions, so that 
any excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the 
ground. 

It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure of 
soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is expe- 
rieneed by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff 
and st'ibborn, small grave", sand, coal ashes, lime, light 
animal and vegetable manure, and other light composts, are 
very appropriate substances to be applied, and will, if care- 
fully managed and well worked into the ground, soon bring 
it into a proper condition for most purposes. 

Previous to laying out an Orchard or Fruit Garden, the 
soil should be manured and pulverized to a great depth. 
It should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots 
receive may be wholesome; free, that they may be at full 
liberty to range in quest of it ; and rich, that there may be 
no defect ui food. 

If Orchards be made from meadows or pasture lands, the 
ground should be improved as much as possible by manur- 
ing, trenching, ploughing, 6cc. If this is not done to its 
full extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in 
width along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at 



OJICHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 241 

ike time of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger 
than is sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, 
and of sufficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and well 
pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are 
planted. 

In transplanting fruit trees, they should be placed an 
inch or two deeper than they were m the nursery bed, 
and the earth intending for filling in, should be enriched and 
vrell pulverized by mixing in some good old manure, and if 
any leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potatoe tops, or 
other refuse of a farm be attainable, let such be used around 
the trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized 
mould be admitted among the fine roots. The trees in 
planting should be. kept at ease, and several times shaken, 
so as to cause an equal distribution of the finer particles of 
earth to be connected with the small fibres of the roots; 
and when conipletely levelled, let the ground be well trodden 
down and moderately watered, which should be repeated 
occasionally after Spring planting, if the weather should 
prove dry. 

As some diff"erence of opinion exists among practical men 
asto the best time for planting fruit trees, thefollowingextract 
from Mr. Prince's Treatise on Horticulture is submitted : 

"Seasons for transplanting. — Spring is the season 
when we find the most pleasure in making our rural imr 
proveiTients, and from this circumstance probably it has 
become the general season for planting trees, but experi- 
ence has proved Autumn planting to be the most successful, 
especially in those parts of the Unitod States which are 
subject to droughts, as the trees planted in Autumn sufter 
little or none from drought, when those set out in Sprinfj 
often perish in consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with 
regard to those fruits that have been originally brought from 
warmer climates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, 
and Almond, which are natives of Persia, Armenia, 6cc., it 
is necessary for us to consult the operations of climate also; 
and, from a consideration of those attendant circumstances, 
I have come to the following conclusions. In localities 

21 



242 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

South of New- York, Autumn planting is preferable only for 
the Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees 
of Northern^ latitude ; whereas, the Spring is to be preferred 
for the Peach, Apricotj Nectarine, and Almond, which for 
the reasons before stated, might, during severe Winters, 
suffer from the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean 
to assert,, that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured 
by the Winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the 
least affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which 
may or may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of ex- 
cellent judgment, make their plantations in the Autumn, 
which only serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent 
minds, a diversity of opinion exists. 

"Trees, &c. on their arrival at thk place of des- 
tination. — As soon as the trees arrive at the place where 
they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated 
ground, the bundle unpacked, the roots well wetted, and 
immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to 
make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to 
leave vacancies for the admission of air to dry the roots, it 
having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees 
the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine 
fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry 
from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ; 
their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the 
subsequent management on their arrival at the place of des- 
tination : for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees 
are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of 
the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, 
cannot thrive the first season, as they can receive little or 
no nourishment until these fibt-es are leplaced. 

"To cause the Trees to thiuve. — The ground where 
they are planted must be kept cultivated ; young trees will 
not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around 
them, and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass 
grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and 
free from grass for three or four feet distant around them. 



ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 243 

and every Autumn some well rotted manure should be dug 
in and around each (ree, and every Spring the bodies of the 
Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry Trees, and others that it ie 
particularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be 
brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water ; 
this treatment will give a ihriftiness to the trees surpassing 
the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect- 
Should the first season, after transplanting prove dry, regu- 
lar watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper 
attention in this respect, many lose a large portion of their 
trees during a drought." 

Such kinds of fruit trees treated on in this work, as 
may require <iny otlier than good ordinary soil, may be sup- 
plied, by judicious management ; and if a proper attention 
be paid to the situation and aspect in arranging a Fruit 
Garden, each kind may be so accommodated as to promote 
its fruits' ripening earlier or later than the ordinary season, 
by varying the aspect ; but Grape Vines, or other tender 
fruits, should not be planted where the Sun'd influence does 
not fully operate. 

Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it 
is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different 
aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a 
South aspect, which will ripen earliest; next, against either 
an East or West, and lastly, against a North aspect; by 
observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, Goose- 
berries, Currants, &c the fruit will ripen in succession, and 
thus a supply ofthem is considerably lengthened. The early 
blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm 
aspects ; for which arrangements may be made by keeping 
awning, matting, netting, &,c. at hand, to shelter them with, 
in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense 
heat of the Sun after a frosty night ; this, wdth a sprinkling 
of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious 
consequences from slight frost. 

Those who have various soils, should suit them to the 
different kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears require a strong 
loam, but rather the lightest for the Pear. Apricots, Cher- 
ries, Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a good deal lighter 



244 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS. 

than for the Apple and Pear. Such fruits as may require 
peat, bog, or any otlier extraordinary kinds of earth, will be 
noticed as we proceed 



OBSERVATIONS 

ON INSECTS, AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE 
LIABLE. 

Much may be written relative to the various diseases to 
which fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention and 
destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects, 
which very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our 
garden. The preventive operations are those of the best 
culture. Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the 
larva) of bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our Win- 
ters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, ifec. are 
beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their 
complete destruction effected, by the use of soap-suds, lie, 
tar, turpentine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder, 
walnutleaves, tobacco, and other bitterand acrid substances ; 
but perhaps the most eftectual v/ay of keeping some of the 
most pernicious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such 
fruit as may fall from the trees, before the insects have an 
opportunity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of 
shelter. 

Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavourable 
situations, they often become diseased; when this happens, 
the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees 
clean, by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, 
they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation. 
Barrenness and diseases are generally produced by the bad 
qualities of earth and air, by a want of water, or by the 
inroaJs of inserts. These incidents generally show them- 
selves in the early jjart of ihe year. Leaves and shoots of 
any colour but the natural green ; curled and ragged leaves ; 
branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the 
roots, instead of from the stem or trunk ; the stem diseasevl 



ANt> Diseases of fruit trees. 



245 



in its bark, and gum oozing from various parts thereof, are 
all proofs of the existence of disease. The Peach tree is 
subject to a disease called the yellows ; and the discoloured 
leaves and fffeble branches are often ascribed to the worms 
which so frequently attack the root; where these are found, 
they may be removed by a knife or chisel ; but if it should 
appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to 
prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and 
also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, ai-e subject to 
the fire bhght; tjiis malady may be completely cliecked on 
its first appearance, by cutting off and immediately burning 
the injured branches. Generally speaking, careful pruning, 
Cleaning the barl\ all over with a brush, applying soap or 
tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting good 
earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most 
diseases in fruit trees ; removing them from a bad to a better 
soil, will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a 
poorness of land ; for the old adage, " remove the causci 
and the eftoat will cease," will be here exemplified. To 
cure the oozing of the g'lm, nothing is more necessary than 
to cut away the diseased parts of the bark ; and by thus 
assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or 
noxious juices, a complete cure may be effected. 

When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately 
sprinkled with soap-suds, and then be dusted over with sul- 
phur and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig 
around the tree, and examine the soil, and sub-soil; if it be 
wet and cankery, it shoujd be taken away, and replaced with 
good healthy soil, and the ground drained ; if, on the coh- 
trary, the ground be dry, give it a plentiful watering; the 
same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of 
blight, if taken in time. When any canker is observed, 
the part affected must, at the time of pruning, be cut clean 
out, and the part thus dressed be pared, so that no water be 
able to lodge in the wound ; when this is done, let a quantity 
of soot be mixed up with water, after which, let a little train 
oil be well worked amongst it, but so that the mixture 
finally remain stiff; this may be plastered over all the 
wounds that have been pruned. The application of this 

21* 



246 OBSERVATIONS OK INSECTSf 

mixture keeps out the wet from tlie wounds, where it wouU- 
be likely to lodge, and both the soot and oil promote vegeta- 
tion. When trees are cankery from having a bad sub-soil^ 
it is in vain to apply any remedy till the ground is properly 
drained, and some fresh soil mixed with the natural soil, 
also the tree replanted. When trees are known to be so 
situated as to be particularly liable to the attacks of insect* 
or disease, they should be attended to at the time of Winter 
or early Spring pruning, in order to destroy the insects in- 
their larvse state.. 

The following compositions have been known to p^otec^ 
fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by being 
used as a wash to the trees immediately after pruning. 
The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger 
mixture of ingredients than others; but the proportions, as 
hereafter described, will not be injurious to any, but will 
be effectual in the destruction of the larvae of insects. 

For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach Trees. — To eight 
gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of 
common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper. 

For Apple, Cherry^ Pear, and Plum Trees. — To four 
gallons of water add one pound of soft soap; two pounds of 
common sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of 
black pepper. 

For Figs and Vines. — To four gallons of water add half 
a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter 
of an ounce of black pepper. 

All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty 
minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm staffe, applied to 
the bark of the trees with a suitable brush. 

The most destructive enemy to our fruits, is the Curculio ; 
this insect passes the Winter in the earth in a chrysalis state, 
and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will 
be leady to commence his attacks at about the time the 
blossoms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are depo- 
sited in the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early 
stage of their growth ; these eggs soon hatch, and small 
maggots are produced, which exist in ihe fruit, causing it to 



AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 24T 

dVop off prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this 
fruit be gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, 
geese, or other animals, a check may be put to their 
ravages in succeeding years : but if suffered to remain on 
the ground, they will supply food to myriads of their 
destructive race, which may not be so easily extirpated. 

The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the 
destruction of which many experiments have been tried. 
Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared 
over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females in 
their ascent to the tree; but as these tormentors are fre- 
quently on the move from November to the end of June, 
this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As 
this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk 
of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from 
the surface of the earth, good culture, and a moderate use 
of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the 
most likely way to destroy them. 

The bark-louse is another pernicious insect ; they resem- 
ble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be 
imperceptible ; they often prove fatal to the Apple tree, by 
preventing the circulation of the sap.. These insects may be 
conquered by washing the trees with soap-suds, tobacco 
water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy 
water and lime, thickened to the consistence of cream or 
paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with 
a brush to the trunk and limbs of the trees ; this should be 
done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the 
cracks in the bark should be completely covered. 

The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath 
the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found 
in the Spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and 
clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken oat 
with a knife or gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are 
removed, the wounds should be covered over with grafting 
clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then i-eturned to 
the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers' mortar early 
in the Spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the 
part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. 



5J'48 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, 

Although our limits will not allow of a further description 
of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and 
frequently destroy the fruit of our labour, I cannot forbear 
directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of 
saving all kinds of ashes. If all agriculturists and horticul- 
turists were to offer an inducement to the inhabitants of 
large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be 
supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote 
for many kinds of insects ; and our citizens would be at a 
less risk from fire, by having a brick vault on their premises 
for safe keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is 
not considered complete without an ash-vault; and a good 
farmer would dispense with his barn, rather than be desti- 
tute of an ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the 
cottagers with ;is much peat as they could burn, on condi- 
tion of their saving them the ashes; and there are some that 
will keep men under pay throughout the year, burning peat 
for the same purpose ; and any thing that has passed the 
fire is so valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently 
clean chimneys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed 
miles into the country, and sold at a price sufficient to reward 
the collectors, besides paying all expenses ; even the house- 
keepers' ashes in cities is a marketable article at all times, 
at from ten to twenty-five cents per bushel, when kept dry 
and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common 
price iu the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire- 
While on this subject, I would urge tlie importance of a 
Spring dressing of ashes. If cuhivators were to prepare 
tiirfs from tanners' bark, peat-earth, coal dust mixed with 
clay, cow dung, (fee. and get them dried in the Summer 
season, these,by being preserved through the Winter, may be 
burned around fruit orchards, while the trees are in blossom, 
and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be kept 
up, by heaping on damp litter every night ; this will prove 
pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, and the 
ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a means for 
the destruction of others. An orchard thus managed every 
year, will need no other manure. The smoking should be 
effected first oa one side of the plantation, and afterwards 



AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 249 

on the other, or heaps may be prepared in differents parts of 
the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may 
serve, to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I 
know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who 
saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after 
its having been used as a covering for liis Spinach ; and I 
have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent re- 
medy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially if some 
coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The darnpt- r 
the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will 
ci'eate ; and if a little tar, pitch, sulphur, or other pernicious 
combustible besprinkled amongst them, it will be beneficini. 
This subject appears to me of the utmost consequence to the 
farmer, as well as to the community at large; I, therefore, 
cannot forbear offering some further observations. 

It must be acknowledged, that although this country-con- 
tains an abundance of wood, coal and peat, as well as 
almost every other description of fuel, that the poor of our 
large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold; and if all 
the tales of woe could be sounded in tlie ears of a sympa- 
thizing community during our severe Winter, I am per- 
suaded it would arouse them to the consideration of a 
remedy. It is an acknowledged fact, that the poor of Europe 
are cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this 
country. This arises, in a great measure, from the circum- 
stance of ashes being held in high estimation by agricul- 
turists ; they are consequently a saleable article in their 
large towns and cities, at a price equal in some instances 
to half the cost of a Winter's fuel. 

Now I would ask, how is it that ashes are not as valuable 
to the farmer here, as they are in Europe ? The extreme 
heat of the Summers must certainly engender insects in 
equal if not greater proportions ; and as respects manure, it 
must be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country, than 
it is in the densely populated countries of Europe. Perhaps 
some may answer, that ashes are already used by our culti- 
vators to a considerable extent ; but I would remind such, 
that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with 
other manures, and exposed to all sorts, of weather, (as in- 



250 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, &C. 

our city,) tliey lose their virtue, so that a load may not be 
wortli more than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean. 

The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value 
than any others, and I am persuaded that could ihey be 
fairly tested by some of our best cultivators great good may 
result to the community. If the farmers in England can 
afford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for 
the sake of the ashe?, it is natural to suppose that the poor 
of our community may be placed in easier circumstances 
as respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land 
are to be found in the States of New-York and New Jersey, 
and within a few miles of this city, which abound with peat 
earth; and the owners of such have already began to ex- 
plore their treiisures of this description. Good peat is now 
to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per 
bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all 
sorts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal' 
and also on the hearth; and if the ashes are not used to any 
better purposes than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the 
cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this subject is 
worthy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the 
different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to 
enlist some of our most active citizens to a consideration of 
the subject, incalculable good may result to the community 
at large. 

If the public authorities of our cities, and all those who 
distribute fuel amongst the poor, gratis, would give them 
peat instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would 
answ;ir every purpose to the consumers. In such cases 
twelve bushels may be given in the first Winter month to 
each of the applicants, instead of wood, with a strict injunc- 
tion tliat they save their ashes in a dry state, in order to 
their l)eiiig taken in exchange for a future supply of peat. 
It could be easily ascertained how much ashes twelve bushels 
of peat would make, and if a strict attention be paid to the 
conditions of exchange, it would soon be discovered which 
of the applicants was the most entitled to the distributor's 
bounty. The same sheds which it would be necessary to 
provide for housing the peat, could be used as a deposit for 



ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 25 1 

the ashes. If such sheds be conveniently constructed to 
hold each a moderate quantity, the first which is emptied of 
peat may be filled with the first ashes that are returned in 
exchange for a future supply of fuel, and they could be all 
used for the same purpose us they become empty. These 
ashes, when fairly tested, may become a merchantable 
article in Europe ; and it is very probable that farmers may 
be induced to take them in exchange for future supplies of 
peat; they could, however, be conveyed into the country at 
a trifling expense, and would no doubt meet a ready sale. 



OBSERVATIONS 

ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. 

In training and pruning fruit trees and vines, particular* 
attention is required. To supply a tree with a sufiiciency 
of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark 
and wood, in an uninterrupted succession from the root to 
the extremities of the branches ; pruning therefore, is useful 
to remedy any defect, as well as to take ofi" superfluous wood, 
and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning may 
be performed at different seasons of the year, according to 
the kinds of fruit which will be shown under each head, as 
we proceed. 

In the Spring or Summer pruning, be careful not to des- 
troy the germs of future fruits ; but merely remove all un- 
serviceable sprigs. In the Winter season, makeyour selec- 
tion from the wood shoots of the preceding year ; keep those 
which appear the most healthy, and cut away those which 
seem redundant. Beginners had better prefer the Spring, 
as the buds will then be a guide for them to go by ; but this 
business must not be delayed too late in the season, as some 
kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned 
untimely. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, &c., before 
the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily 
stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it 



252 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 

"i-vatli melted wax, or with vvfirni ])itch spread upon a piece of 
bladder; or peel off the outside bark to some distance 
from tlie place ; and then press into the pores of the 
woikI, a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to 
the consistence of putty. Vines will bleed in AiJtumn as well 
as in Spring, though not so copiously. The best preventive 
is timely or early pruning in the Spring; and not pruning 
until the wood is thoroughly ripe in Autumn. 

With respect to the manner in which vines, and some 
particular kinds of trees should be trained, opinions are 
at variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight 
and direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and 
others in a serpentine form, «&c. If vines be trained on low 
walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training 
may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from 
a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on 
each side. 

It has been remarked, tliit in order to be a good trainer 
of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable 
of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must pre- 
determine how he shall prune, anl where he shall cut at the 
end of the season ; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to 
his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with 
respect to the vine, than any otlier fruit tree, 0:1 account of 
its rapid growth and docility. 

In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud. 
Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt 
to weaken the shoot of next season, and sometimes to pre- 
vent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of 
injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood. 
In the cutting out of old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping 
direction, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to 
prevent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being 
finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood 
be carefully peeled ofl", observing not to injure the sound 
barji, and clear the trellis of branches, leaves, tendrils, &c. 
Let the shoots and branches be afterwards regularly laid in, 
at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots 
that are expected to bear next season. As to others, it is 



'b'N tRAl¥lINO AND l^RUNING. 25.^ 

ftotso material how near the young shoots be placed to the 
old, even though they sometimes cross them. Choose 
strands of fresh matting, or pack thread, to tie with ; and 
observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoote 
and branches next season. 

By attending to the proper pruning of fruit trees, every 
advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in 
other respects, wood may not only be obtained but preserved 
in every part of the tree, and so that it will bear down to the 
very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the 
gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and will be equally 
conducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees 
are youn g, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a supply 
of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neglected, 
and they become naked, it is some time before a supply can 
be recovered. In shortening a branch, always take care to 
cut in a direction a little sloping, and the middles of all 
standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is re- 
quisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be rag- 
ged, but clean, and in the operation be careful that the knife 
does not slip, so lliat another branch be cut or damaged. 

The general pruning of fruit trees is indifferently per- 
formed by manypersons at any timefrom Autumn to Spring, 
and it may be so done without any great injury to them, 
provided that mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and 
the wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous 
to prune trees early in the Winter, when the wood is well 
ripened, yet when the wood is green and the buds have not 
arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in such instances to 
defer pruning until Spring, taking care, however, that it is 
performed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of 
this arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not 
ripened in Autumn, the sap is then in an active state, 
■and will continue so until the frost, &c. cause it to become 
stagnant, and if the shoots were shortened whilst the sap 
was in motion, the buds would be considerably injured, 
and the tree weakened ; such unripe shoots are also more 
liable to suffer by the severity of Winter, and when the pru- 
ning is deferred nntil Spring, all such parts as may have 

22 



254 ON TRAINING AND PRUNlN"©. 

beeii affected by the weather, can be removed to the extent 
to which the damage has been sustained. As the pruning 
of such unripe wood in the Autumn would be injurious, so 
it frequently is when it is done during Winter, and the more 
so, according to the severity of it ; because, whenever a cut 
is made on such green- wood, the frost generally affects it, 
as the sap is not dense nor the wood so firm, as to be a.ble to 
resist its intense ness. 

Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should 
be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible ; 
this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the 
fan or horizontal method. For espalier trees the horizontal 
method has many advantages over any other ; the small 
compass in which the trees are obliged to be kept, requires 
such a direction for the branches, in order to make them 
fruitful. And were very high trellises formed, so as to ad- 
mit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such would 
be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they would 
cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the benefit of 
a warmer temperature, which those less elevated receive. 

As some voung gardeners may not know what is meant 
by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers 
are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a 
frame or trellis of wood work ; they produce large fruit 
plentifully, without taking up much room^and may be planted 
in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its 
other products. For espalier fruit trees in the open ground, 
a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed 
of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, 
according to taste or fancy. 

The implements employed in pruning, and the manner of 
using them, are matters of moment. If the operation is 
commenced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed 
\ip, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed 
(m a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the 
branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw 
will be occasionally wanted ; but an axe or hatchet should 
never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and 
tear the bark, and disfigure the tree. 



255 
BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES, 

Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations^ 
that equally depend for their success upon the property that 
buds possess of shooting roots downwards and stems up- 
wards ; but in these practices, the roots strike between the 
bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and 
form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres. 
The success of such practices, however, depends upon other 
causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings- 
It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between 
the scion and the stock, so that when the descending fibres 
of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of 
the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation 
No one can have studied the economy of the vegetable 
kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong 
tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in 
contact with each other. 



BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 

To bud trees, let the following method be adopted : pro- 
cure a knife which has a thin blade, and a sharp ivory 
handle ; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the 
handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the 
buds can be ea.sily inserted. Have some good strong bass 
in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from 
healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. When 
all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely, 
and from the middle of this cut make another downwards, 
at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in 
the form of a T; then take one of your sprigs, and with ex- 
pedition proceed to take ofi'a bud : this is eff'ected by enter- 
ing the knife a little more than half an inch below the bud 
or eye ; force your knife into the wood, drawing it under the 
bud, and cut the piece off" across the shoot; then imme- 
diately let that part of the wood which was cut ofi" with the 
bud, be separated from it, which may be readily done with 



2*56 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING.. 

the knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and' 
wood at one end, and holding the bark in one hand, pull off" 
the woody part with the other, which will readily come front 
tlie bark, if the tree from which it was taken be in vigorous 
condition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the 
bud remains perfect ; if there is no hole in it, let it be imme- 
diately inserted into the stock,, observing for the reception 
of it, to raise with the handle of your knife the bark of the 
stock downwards on eaxih side from the cross cut, and thrust 
the bud in between the bark and the wood, applying it a*^ 
close as possible. As soon as the bud is put in its place, tie 
it round securely with bass, beginning a little below the cut, 
and proceeding upwards, till you are above the cross cut* 
taking care to miss the eye of the bud, just that it may be 
seen through the bandage of the bass. About a week or 
ten days after the stocks have been budded, they should be 
examined, when such as have united will appear fresh and 
full, and those that have not taken will appear decayed ; in 
the former case the bandage may be left off, and in the 
latter case, the stock may be budded in another place, pro- 
vided the fi:rst operation was done in the month of July or 
early in August, as these are two of the most preferable 
months for budding fruit trees in general. Budding is» 
however, often attended with success, if done early irt 
September. 

Scallop Budding is performed by cutting from a small 
stock, a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in 
length, and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the 
same length ; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at 
top and bottom, and as- neai'ly as possible on its sides, and 
firmly bound with wet bass matting. This may be performedi 
In the Spring, and if it fails, it may be done agairt. in the 
R^ontliof July. The French practise this mode on rosesos 



GRAFTING. 

Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting 
ft into another, in such a manner that both may unite closely », 



OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 257 

and become one tree. These shoots are called scions or 
grafts, and in the choice of them, and the mode of preparing 
some descriptions of stocks, the following hints are sub- 
mitted. 

That those scions are best which can be taken from the 
lateral or horizontal, rather than from the strong perpendicu- 
lar shoots. The shoots of Apples, &c., should be taken 
from healthy trees late in Autumn, or before the buds begin 
to swell in the Spring; and buried half of their length in 
the ground, or in a cool and dry cellar ; there to remain 
until the season of grafting. 

For some descriptions of trees, the stocks are headed 
down near to the ground. In Nurseries, Apples intended 
for standards, are generally grafted about nine inches high 
only, allowing them to grow up standard high, and forming 
their heads upon the second year's shoots. In cider coun- 
tries, the stock is generally trained up standard high ; and 
when grown sufficiently large for the purpose, it is grafted 
the height at which it is intended the head of the tree shall 
be formed. As respects trees in general, directions will be 
found under appropriate heads. 

The business of grafting is generally performed in March 
and April : there are various methods of grafting, but the 
following are those most generally practised. 

Cleft Grafting. — This mode of grafting is generally 
practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter, 
and may be performed in the following manner : — Let the 
head of the stock be carefully sawed off at a part free from 
knots, and the top pared smooth ; then with a thin knife 
split down the stock through the centre, to the depth of 
about two inches, and insert a wedge to keep it open for the 
reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the 
form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part, 
and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion 
and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks 
require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four 
are inserted. When done, tie theiA firmly together with bass, 
and then cover the grafted part with well prepared clay» 
in an oval form,, aad close it securely. 

22* 



258 OBSEBVATIOX* Oy GtATTVfe. 

Side Graftixg. — This mode is sometimes practised oi* 
those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are 
two wavs in which it may be performed, let. The scion 
may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting, 
and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping ; 
the scion beins then adjusted as carefallr as possible, must 
be boand on and corered with clay. 2d. The scion being 
cut sloping, a cross-cut is to be made in the side of the tree 
on the top of a perpendicular slit ; the bark of the tree- 
above the cross-cut must be pared down slanting to the 
wood, and the bark raised, as in budding ; the scion being 
riien inserted, it must be bound fast, and covered with clay.. 

Splice, or "Whip Graftixg. — This mode is often prac- 
tised on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion 
and stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should 
consist of young wood of the former year's growth, may be 
cut to the length of about four inches This and the st(x;k 
are each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued. 
Tongueing consists in cutting a slit in the middle of the slope 
of the stock downwards, and a corresponding slit in the scioa 
upwards ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides, 
if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then to be securely 
bound with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay, or 
Gompostion. As soon as the scion and stock are completely 
united, the bass string may be removed. 

Saddle Grafting. — The celebrated Mr. Knight prac- 
tised this mode of grafting oavery small stocks. The upper 
part of the stock is prepared in the form of a. wedge, by two 
sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by 
splitting it upwards, and paring out the middle part on each 
aide to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal 
size, the adjustment may be made perfect ; but if unequal, 
one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a 
strin*' of bass matting, and covered with composition or 
clav ; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect 
union has taken place 

Root Gbaftixg. — This operation is often performed on 
arape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual 



OBSERVATIONS ON ORAFTINO. 2o0 

mode of cleft grafting. It is also performed on portions or 
pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scarce. 

GuAFTiNo BY APPROACH. — The trccs, or shrubs, to be 
grafted, must be growing very near to those which are to 
furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each tree, 
which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long slo- 
ping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre ; and the 
parts of each tree thus prepared, are to be brought together, 
and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the 
bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then 
be covered with clay or composition ; and when a complete 
uiiion has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated 
with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. 

Grafting Clay may be made in the following manner: 
Take equal partsof fresh horse manure, free from litter, cow 
manure, and good stiff clay ; add to this a portion of hair,, 
and work it together in the same manner as masons mix 
tlieir mortar. It should be well beaten, and incorporated, 
several days before it is required to be used. 

To MAKE Grafting Composition. — Take equal parts of 
rosin and beeswax, and a little tallow ; melt these together 
tjnd mix thsm, then pour the composition into cold water, 
and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands 
until it attains a due consistence^ It may be spread on 
brown paper, which cut into strips of suitable size, is quickly 
applied, and in cool wieather may be warmed by the breath,. 
so as to become adhesive. 



ON THR 

CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES mTHE NURSERY. 

In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and attention, 
are necessary ; for, to have trees that do not answer the 
expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment. 
As the young gardener may need such directions as are 
calculated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour to 
furnish them. Of whatever species or variety of fruit trees 
axe wanted, choose those that are vigorous and. straight 



260 ON THE CHOICB OP 

anJ of a healthy appearanee. Whether they have been 
grafted or budded, be careful to select such as have been 
worked on young stock?. Grafts and buds inserted into 
old crooked stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees 
that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining bark ; 
such as are mossy, or have a rough wrinkled bark, or are 
the least aftected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is 
discoverable in the young wood, and generally two or three 
inches above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, 
Nectarine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the 
lower part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you 
select (if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the 
ground, and only one graft or bud should be upon each 
stock, for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought 
to so handsome a form. 

In some of the following articles, I have shown that 
several descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety, 
even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or 
five years' growth, after heading down, that are healthy, and 
well furnished with fruit-bearing wood, close up to the cen- 
tre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very well; but 
great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and planting 
such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a portion 
of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or 
damage them; for want of attention to these points, trees 
often become diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding all due 
caution) any roots have been accidentally broken, split, or 
otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut off; 
or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged or bruised 
part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a portion 
of the following composition be spread over the wound, in 
order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise injure 
the tree. To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add a little bees- 
wax ; let them be boiled together, and when cold they may 
be used. The necessity of pruning-in and dressing man- 
gled roots, is more particularly required in trees of the stone 
fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, &c. ; 
for without the application of some remedy, they gum at the 
roots,, which defect, if not counteracted, very materially 



TRVIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 361 

injures the upper part of the trees, which may become so 
afFected as never to recover afterwards; therefore, grea^ 
care should be taken not to occasion such injury ; and 
when accidents happen, all due caution and application are 
necessary to promote a healthy and vigorous growth. 

A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly 
corresponding to the branches ; at least, it should have one 
strong root in a similar prwportion to the bole of the tree, 
with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy 
roots are always sm-ooth and clear, the colour of them varies 
a little according to the sort of the tree, but the older the 
roots are, the dajker the colour is. 

After the tree is taken up, be careful in conveying it to 
the place where it is to be planted, so that the root!) are not 
chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed a consider, 
able distance,^ they should be v/ell guarded by straw, or 
othei'wise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised 
roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but 
if it be necessary to prune away any sound good roots, such 
pruning should be delayed until the tinie of planting. In 
pruning away roots,^ always let them be finished by a clear 
eut, and in a sloping direction, letting the slope be towards 
the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to 
lodge upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an 
advanced season, in the Spring of the year, it will be neces- 
sary to prune ll>e tops ; and if trees are removed that have 
been tmined three or four years, and are not properly 
supplied with young wood, they must be cut down either 
wholly or partially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In 
practising this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., 
always prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the 
eut, as it is very rare they will push a shoot below, unless 
there be a lead. This attention is not so particularly required 
Ln the Pear, &.c., as such will generally push forth shoots, 
although no leading ones were left: but in all kinds, the 
younger the wood is, the more certain are shoots to be 
produced. If a tree that has been under training for one or 
two years, should only have one good strong leading shoot, 
and two or three weaker ones which do not proceed frona, 



262 ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 

it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten 
the strong one, from wliich a handsome head may after- 
wards be formed. For further directions, as respects 
pruning or phiuting fruit trees, &c., the reader is referred 
to the preceding articles on these subjects ; and as respects 
any species of fruit in particular, directions will be found 
under its distinct head. 

In order to assist the reader to make a judicious choice 
of fruit trees, I have furnished a short description of such 
species and varieties as are in great repute for every good 
quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully 
perused " Prince's Pomological Manual," " Renrick's 
American Orchardist," " Lindley's Guide to the Orchard 
and Fruit Garden," and Manning's descriptive catalogue of 
fruits; besides these important guides, I had the select 
catalogues of different nurserymen before me, and have 
chosen such only as have been most generally recommended- 
In doing this, I have had difficulties to contend with, the 
nature of which none but tiiose who have duly considered 
the subject can form any idea. The facility with which 
seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness with 
wliich people are apt to regard their own seedlings, have 
occasioned hundreds of names to appear in the various 
catalogues, which tend not a little to swell the large and 
increasing list of fruits. 

In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and 
other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to 
the same variety, consequently some fruits appear in the 
different catalogues under all the varied names ; and the 
patience and labour necessarily requisite for ascertaining 
which are really distinct varieties, and which are most 
worthy of cukivation, are correspondingly great. 

In making out the descriptive lists, 1 have generally 
adopted the names given in the catalogue of Mr. Michael 
Floy, of the Harlem Nursery, as a heading ; and have 
caused the synonymes, or names by which the same variety 
is known, or has been called, to be })rinted in italics ; thus, 
my lists of about 300 varieties ofthe various species of fruit, 
will embrace what has been deemed by some as different 
Yurieties, perhaps to the number of a thousand, 



APPLE. 263 

(t/* In preparing the following articles, the object has 
been to furnish such information as was thought best calcu- 
lated to entertain, as well as to instruct the reader. Besides 
the authorities quoted, I have gleaned from those inexhaust- 
ible treasures to horticulturists, Loudon's Encyclopaedia of 
Plants, and that of Gaz'dening; but on account of the 
brevity necessarily observed throughout this work, it has 
been found impracticable to give many entire extracts ; 
suffice it to say, that the historical facts are generally 
collected from these sources. 



APPLE. 

PoMMlER. Pyrus vialus. 

The Apple being so closely connected with our wants 
and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the cata- 
logue of our fruits, The Apple Orciiard is in truth the 
vineyard of our country ; and the delicious beverage that 
can be obtained from some of the varieties of this excel- 
lent fruit being calculated to cheer the invalid, as well as 
to strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high consideration. 
It is one of our oldest and best fruits, and has become 
completely naturalized to our soil ; none can be brought to 
so high a degree of perfection with so little trouble ; and of 
no other are there so many excellent varieties in general 
cultivation, calculated for almost every soil, situation and 
climate, which our country affords. 

The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great 
age : Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, 
that attained a thousand years, and were highly prolific; 
but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordinary 
duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and 
planted in a strong tenacious soil. Cspeechly mentions a 
tree in an Orchard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, of 
about sixty years old, with branches extending from seven 
to nine yards round the bole, which in some seasons pro- 
duced upwards of one hundred bushels of apples. 



The Romarn had only twenty-two varielicH in Pliny*ii 
Mnic. 'I'Ikto lire upvvartlH of" fifieeM iiundrud now cultivated 
in iho pardon of tin; ilorti(Mjlliinil Society of London, under 
name; the catalogue. r)f the liinna;an Botanic (jiarden at 
FluHliin^, conlairiH over four Initidred ; and one of our 
♦interpriMinj^ liorliculliirislH, Mr. Wni. (Joxe, «if liurlington, 
New Jersey, enumecated one hundred and thirty-three kinds 
cultivat(!d in the Unil(!d StatcH, Hotne yearH agf). 'J'liey are 
iiHiially divided into d<;HH(;rt, hiiking, and cider fruits ; tlie 
first high-flavoured, the second such as fall or l)ecornc mel- 
low in haking or hoiling, and the third an.stere, and 
gen(!rally fruit of Hinall ni/.c. IJcHides this divisiorr, Apples 
are clasHfid as ])ippinH or seedlin;fH, pcarniains or somewhat 
pear-shaped fruits, rennels or (picen-specked fruits, calviles 
or white skinned fruits, russets or hrown fruits, codlings or 
falling IVuils, and K<nne arc; dcMioniinated hurknots. 

TIk! AppNr may he propagated hy layers, and many sorts 
hy cuttings and hndding, hut the usual mode is hy grafting 
on seedling slocks of two or llir(;«; years growth, and for 
<lwar(ing, on slocks of" llie (iuinco or J'uradi.s*! Apple. All 
iIk; piineipal varieliits are cultivated as standards in the 
orchard, and should Ix! planted from thirty to forty feet from 
each oilier, or from any (»lh(!r Hi)rca(ling trees, in order that 
the sun and air may have liieir due influence in maturing llie 
fruit. 

Many of the <hvarf kinds may he introduced into the 
KitcluMi <«arden, and trained as <;spaliers, or dwarf stan- 
dards. An A[)plo. Orchard may he planted at any time 
after the trees are two years old from iI'k; graft; and as trees 
from young slocks will not come into full hearing until ten 
or twelve y<!ars old, they will hear removing m ith care at 
any lime within that period. 

Old Appl(! iPMisniay l)egral"l('d with su])(;rior varieties, hy 
h(ung headed down to standard height: in very old suhjects, 
most commonly, the hranches only arc cut within a foot or 
two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or chift man- 
ner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of 
hearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short 
robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, which 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF Al r'I,E». 20.'> 

'Spring from tlic youngf-r braridicH of two or more years' 
growth, uppcaring at firnt at the extremity, and cxleiuJing 
gradually to the wide: the Hame hcarini^ hranchc« and fruit 
spurs continue many years fruitful. 

PnthNiNf;. — As from the mode of hearinr^, Ai);>le trees do 
not admit of shorteninjjf in the general hearers, it should only 
be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees have not the 
most def.irahle form when three or four ycnrn old, they Hhr»uld 
be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading hranches. 
In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut, 
tmless in cases of decay ; but all su(>erfliiou^ cross hranchcR 
and dead wo'id should be taken out, and the suckers eradi- 
cated. Espaliers rerpjirc a Summer and Winter \irui\'Ktg. 



SELECT DESCIill'TIVE LIST OF AI'I'LES. 



8 C MM Kit FIMJr'r. 

AMKhicAy HoMMKU I'EARMAiif, Early HumnuiT Pmrmain. Thi« ap- 
ple in of m<!fliiirn Hf/.a and oMong form; itx coloi/r l)ri»;ht r<;fl on lh<5 
Hunny Hid*;, arirl on tli« oppo/it<; nu\'; yf-ilow, nlrt::i.U<;(l or Idotcji'd with 
red; the, tlnnU in very juicy, tender, firi<; flavorir<;d and i:xi:i:i\<ui. It 
ripcHH early in Aiignnt, and in good cither for tli<; df.nncrt or for cookiinjr. 
Tre«5 a (jood \)f.;irc,r. 

Kaki.v J5oi;o(f, fiwetJ, liou^h. The nv/.*: of \\\w frriit vturicn from me- 
dium to large; itji colour pale yellow ; it** form oblong ; it«»»kin Hmootb; 
fleith U;nder, juicy, Hweet and excellent; ripenH early in Augn.fl. 

Early Cnoyron, or Irinh I'mck AppU-.. An Iri«k apple, of the mirldle 
«ize and flattii*h xhapo; of an olive grren uAomt, much variegated with 
red; has a rich Haccharine flavour; ripefjttin Angunt; it ix muchexteemed 
for the de«»tert, arid excellent alwi a<( a Mauce apple. The tree growH 
well, and in not apt to canker. 

Eart-v IIarvkht, ./aifjy Pippin. A very early apple of bright )»traw 
'i«i\oHr; (le«h whit«j and Uinder ; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The 
tree bearH young, and makea a fine garden expalier; rijiening it.i fruit 
in July and AugH-^t. 

V\kki.v ItKO MAR'iAif/r, /i!e// Junmlinif, Karly HlripeA Jurteaiiii/f, 
Ete AnpU uj iiih Irixh. Fruit below the middle itize; ,«<kin greenish 
yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red ; fle»h whit*;, j«»cy, 
breaking, stulMicid, very rich and agreeable; early in Augurt. 

Ren A«s ' rac ajt. TbiJt beautiful apple iit ofiiii-Aiitu) xize and roundinh ; 
the »kin i» dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum; the flexh i* 
white, tender, and ooiaewbat acid ; at perfection early in Augu>,t. 

23. 



266 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

Rhd Q,uakendkk, Devonshire Quarenden. Sack Apple. A mnch 
esteemed Devonshire apple; of medium size; skin of an uniform deep 
rich crimson, with numerous green dots intermixed ; flesh of a brisk 
pleasant, and peculiar flavour. A very desirable dessert apple ; from 
August to November; tree very productive. 

Spring Grove Codling. Fruit of the usual codling shape; skin pale, 
greenish yellow,, tinged with orange on the sunny side ; flesh tender ; 
juice saccharine, a little acid, mixed with a very shght perfume ; good 
from August to November. 

SuMMF.K Rose, Harvest Apple. A very beautifid and exceUent fruit, 
of moderate size and round form; the skin is yellow, strijred and mottled 
with red; the flesh is sweet, juicy and fine ; in July and August ; tree a 
great bearer. 

Summer Pippin, Pie Apple. This fruit in size and shape resembles 
the fall Pijipin ; it diflfers in having a little more red on the suimy side, 
and in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular 
apple in New Jersey. 

Williams's Favourite Red. This apple originated in Roxbury, 
Mass.; it is of medium size, oblong form; the slun a bright and deep 
red ; the flavour pleasant end agreeable. The tree is a good bearer, and 
its fruit commands a good price in the Boston markets; in August and 
September. 

AUTUMN FRUIT. 

Alexander, Emperor Al&xander, Aporta. Fruit very large, some- 
what cordate, smallest at the crown ; of a greenish yellow colour, striped 
or marbled with red ; pulp tender, sweet, rich and aromatic ; ripens in 
October, und lasts till Christmas. Though a large, hardy tree, it is a 
medium bearer, but a magnificent fruit. 

American Nonpareil. A beautiful apple of medium size and ob- 
long form ; its colour yellow, streaked and stained with red on the sunny 
side; flesh Gnn, juicy and agreeable. A very fine market apple in Oc- 
tober and November. 

Dowell's Pippin. In size and form this apple resembles the Rib- 
stone Pippin, but is more pointed at the head, and the eye is sunk in a 
more confined and deeper cavity ; the skin is green, nearly covered with 
a clear thin russet, and a slight tinge of brownish red on the sunny sidej 
an excellent dessert apple ; from October to Christmas. 

DowNTON Pippin, Eton Golden Pippin, Knight's Golden Pippin, 
The Downton Golden Pippin is a most abundant bearer, and the fruit 
extremely well adapted for market ; it is rather larger than the common 
Golden Pippin; skin nearly smooth; yellow, sprinlded with numerous 
specks ; flesh yellowish, crisp, with a brisk, rich, sub-acid juice. Ripe in 
October and November, and will keep good till Christmas. 

Drap D'Or of France, Cloth of Gold. This apple is very large 
and handsome ; its form globular ; its colour a fine yellow, witli dark 



DBSCRItTlVE LIST OF APPtES. 267 

specks; its flesh white, firm, and rich flavoured. A most productiTC 
variety ; in perfection from September to November. 

English Codling, Codling, ofCoxe. Fruit very large and handsome; 
of oblong form ; its skin a fine yellow, with red blush on the sunny side ; 
its flesh white, tender, and of an agreeable acidity. A good marketable 
apple tor the table, and for cooking ; from September to November ; tree 
handsome and productive. 

Fall Pippin. Cohbett's Fall Pippin. Reinnete Blanche D'Espagne, 
D'Espagne, De Rateau, Concomhre Ancicn, White Spanish Reinette, Ca. 
tnuesar. This extremely valuable variety stands in the first class of An- y c/ 
tumn fruits; being very large ; its form is roundish oblong ; skin smooth, 
yellowish green, tinged vvitli orange ; flesh yellowish, crisp and tender, 
with a very rich sugary juice. It ri^iens in October, and keeps well as a 
Fall Apple. 

Fameuse, Pomme de Ncigc. A Canadian Apple of great beauty ; in 
aize medium ; skin light green, stained with bright red ; flesh white, very 
tender; juice saccharine, with a musky perfume; ripe in. October, and 
will keep good till Christmas. 

Franklin Golden Pippin. Fruit a medium size, conical, of a golden 
yellow colour, with gray and dark-coloured specks ; it ripens in Novem- 
ber, and continues till March; flesh firm, and highly aromatic; tree 
ratiier slender, and middling bearer, but an excellent fruit. 

Golden Russet, Aromatic Russet. A dessert apple, of medium size, 
and of a pale copper-coloured russet ; in great repute for its rich saccha* 
rine, aromatic, and slightly musky flavour. The tree is hardy and very 
productive; in October and November. 

Grave'nstein. Fruit rather large and compressed; of a yellowish 
green colour, striped with red ; flesh crisp, and high flavoured ; ripens 
in October, and lasts till April. This variety originated in Germany, and 
is considered the best dessert apple in that countiy. 

Kenrick's Red Aijtuiwn. A native apple of largeish dimensions, 
raised by John Kenr'ck, Esq. of Newton, Mass. ; colour pale green in 
the shade, but bright red next the sun, and streaked with deeper red; ths 
flesh white, stained more or less with red ; tender, juicy and rich, with 
an agreeable sub-acid flavour; ripe in October, 

KiLTiAM Hill. This apple, one of the most saleable varieties in 
Salem markets, originated on the farm of Dr. Kilhain, in Wenham, Essex 
County, Mass.; the size is above medium; form a little oblong; the 
8kin yellow, striped with red ; the. flesh is yellow and high flavoured; 
from September to November. 

OiiANGE Sweeting, Yellow Sweeting. This variety is much cultivated 
near Hartford, :a Connecticut, for the Boston, Providence and Philadel- 
phia markets : the fruit is rather large, flattened at its base and summit ; 
the colour yellow, or orange ; flesh very sweet and excellent ; from Sep- 
tember to December, 

Rkd Ingestric. a first-rate dessert apple, of medium size, and bright 
yellow colour, deeply tinged with red ; raised by Mr. Knight, President 



26S DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

of Uie London Horticultural Society. The tree bears well in America- 
juid riiiens its fruit in October, which is very rich, juicy, high flavoured, 
and grateful to the palate. 

Rambo, or Roma.mite, Seek no Farther. This apple is much cultiva. 
ted in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Its form is flat, resembling the 
Vandervere in appearance, but is a more juicy fruit; the skin pale yel- 
low, streaked with red ; flesh tender and sprightly during the Autumn 
months. 

Rf.d and Grekn SwEETtNG, jPriwce's Large Red and Green Stceeting. 
The fruit is of oblong shape ; colour green, striped with red ; the pulp 
Ls very sweet, tender, and of delicious flavour ; from September to No- 
vember. 

Stroat, Siraat. A fine Autumn Appl ', introduced by the late Jesse 
Buel, Esq. of Albany; in size medium ; form rather oblong ; skin yel- 
lowish green; flesh yellow and tender; juice rich and lively; in use 
iTom September to December. 

York Russeting. A very large russetty ajjple, well known about 
Boston. Its form is rather oblong ; its flesh pleasant and agreeably 
acid ; an excellent apple ; from October to December. 

WINTER FRUIT. 

.^sopus Spitzenburg. a beautiful apple; large and oval; of red 
oolour, covered with numerous white sjiecks ; the flesh is yellowish ;, 
slightly acid, and of the finest flavour ; ri2>ens in Octobor, and continues 
good tin Febniary. 

Baldwin. No apjile in the Boston markets is more jjopular than 
tills; it is rather above medium size ; its form round; its colour bright 
red, streaked v/ith yellow ; its flesh is yellow, juicy, rich, siccharine. 
with a most agreeable acid flavour. The tree bears fruit abundantly, 
which ri2>ens in November, and keeps till February or March. 

Baltimore. A remarkably large apple, raised by Mr. Smith, near 
Baltimore City ; a specimen of the fruit was sent to London, as recorded 
in the Loudon Hort. Trans, vol, 3, p. 120, weighing twenty-three 
ounces and a half; its form was flat ; skin a pale citron, with a faint 
!)!uoh on the sunny side; flesh g od flavoured, and close at the core ; its 
circumference was fourteen inches and three quarters, and height four 
inches. \ 

Barcelona Pkaumain, Speckled Golden Reinctte, Reinette Rouge, 
Rc'mettc Rousse, Ucbictte des carmcs, Glace Rouge, Kleiner Casselcr Re- 
incite. This variety is said to be a very productive and excellen^dessert 
a[)ple ; fruit of iiiedium size ; oval, not angular; colour brownish yel- 
low in the shade, deep red next the sun; flesh firm, yellowish, with u 
rich aromatic agreeable acid ; from November till February. 

Bell Flower. A very large and beautiful aj)ple, its colour bright 
yellow, with an occasional blush on the sunny side; its form oblong; 
the flesh tender, juicy, rich, and finely flavoured, and is alike excellent 



Descriptive list op apples. ^69 

for the dessert or for cooking. It ripens early in November, and will 
keep all the winter. 

Blenheim Pippin, Woodstock Pippin, Blenheim Orange. Fruit 
large, roundish, of a yellowish colour, tinged with red next the sun; 
pulp sweet and high flavoured ; ripe in November, and keeps till March ; 
a very superior dessert apple. 

BLUi; Pearmain. This variety is well known about Boston a? a 
large apple, of red colour, covered with a dense blue bloom, and of a 
delicious flavour; good as a dessait or for cooking; from October to 
January. The tree grows strong, and is very productive. 

Cqu.iT Pendu, Capendu, Court Pendu Plat, Garnon^s Apple An 
estimable dessert apple, of medium size ; in shape round, depressed ; 
the colour yellow, a good deal covered with full red ; it is of a high sac- 
charine flavour and of close consistence ; the fruit keeps till February 
or March. The tree grows upright, and bears well. 

Danver's Winter Sweet. This variety originated on the farm of 
W. P. Eudict, Esq. of Danvers, near Salem, Mass.; fruit of medium 
size;, a little oblong; skin yellow, slightly tinged with red; its flesh 
sweet and excellent cooked, or as dessert; from November to April. 

GoLDE>t IIarvev, Brandy Apple. A dessert apple, not larger than 
the Golden Pippin ; colour light yellow, with a flush of red, and em 
broidered v^ith a roughish russet. It is called Brandy Apple from the 
superior specific strength of its juice, being 1085; it is of remarkably 
close texture, very rich in flavour, and will keep till April or May. 

Green Sweet, Green Sweeting. This apple is much cultivated in 
Blassachusetts. It is of medium size; the skin dull green, approaching 
to yellow ; the flesh very sweet and delicious. It possesses the valuable 
property of retaining its soundness till May or June. 

IIawthorden. The fruit is large, rather flat, and of a pale greenish 
"yellow, tinged with blush on one side ; it ripens in August, and continues 
till January; the pulp soft, juicy and acid; a very hardy tree ; a great 
bearer, and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes. 

HuBBARBSTON Nonsuch. A large apple of globular form ; red and 
yellow colour, streaked and blotched; the flesh is juicy and of excellent 
flavour I from December to Ma'ch. The tree is of vigorous growth, a 
great bearer, and worthy of extensive cultivation. 

Lady Apple, Pomme d'Api. Fruit small, flat ; of pale yellow co- 
lour, tinged with a deep red on the side ; flesh crisp, sprightly and plea- 
sant ; ripens in November, and continues till April. It is a very sale- 
able fruit on account of its great beauty. 

Lemon Pippin. An old and much esteemed dessert ap{)le ; of me- 
dium size and oval shape, much like a lemon both in form and colour, 
having a firm texture, brisk flavour, and plenty of acid ; from October 
to March. Tree handsome, and a great bearer. 

Malcarle, Charles Apple, Mela Carle, Pomme Fina'e. A fiir-famed 
fruit. In the climate of Ita'y, this is supposed to be the best apple in 
the world. It is cultivated extensively in the territories of Genoa, as aii 

23* 



270 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

article of export and commerce to Nice, Barcelona, Cadiz, and Mar- 
seilles. The fruit is rather large, its form inclining to globular. Ita 
beautiful waxen skin is a little marbled with a very faint green near the 
eye ; its colour in the shade is a pale yellow, tinged with flaming crimson 
next the sun ; the flesh is white, tender, delicate, sweet, with the fra- 
grant perfume of roses. It ripens in September, and will keep till 
Spring. e 

MoNSTROUji Pippin, New-York Gloria Mundi. Fruit of enormonpi 
size, often weighing twenty-five ounces or more ; of a pale lemon co. 
lour; flesh tender, and of a sprightly flavour, excellent fiir cooking ; 
ripens in October, and continues fit for use till January. 

Newtown Pitpin, American Newtoicn Pippin, Yellow Newtown 
Pippin. This variety, when pci-fectly matured, is considered by some 
as the finest apple in our country; its skin is green, changing to an 
olive yellow at maturity, having a thin russet covering the,_greatest 
part of the base ; flesh jjale yellow and firm; juice saccharine, and pos- 
sessing a rich and highly aromatic flavour ; from December to April, 

Newtown Spitzenbcrg, Matchless. A beautiful apple of medium 
size ; skin streaked, and tinged with red and yellow ; flesh yellow, rich 
and highly flavoured ; from October till February. 

Norfolk Beaufin. Fruit middling size, flattish, of a deep red and 
pale green colour ; it ripens in November, and is frequently to be ob- 
tained in England in July following ; the flesh is firm and savoury ; the 
tree hardy, upright, a good bearer; fruit excellent for use in the kitchen, 
and highly esteemed for the dessert. 

Ortlky Pippin, Ortley Apple. A fruit very much resembling, the 
Yellow Newtown Pippin, but a little more oval ; skin bright yellow in 
the shade, and bright scarlet with russetty spots next the sun; flesh yel- 
lowish, crisp and breaking; very juicy, with the same pine apple flavour 
which distinguishes the Newtown Pippin ; good from November to 
April. 

Pennock's Red Winter Fruit very large and compressed; of 
deep red colour, streaked with yellow ; flesh tender, juicy, and of sweet 
and pleasant flavour ; ripens in November, and will keep good till 
March. It is a very popular ajiple in the Philadelphia markets. 

P. NE Apple Russet, Hardiugham' s Russet. This delicious apple is 
above the middle size, roiindi~h, ovate ; skin pale greenish yellow, with 
white specks, and partially ru^setty ; juice abundant; flesh of a spicy, 
aromatic, pine-apple flavour, hence its name ; ripe in September. 

Rhode Island Greemng. Fruit large and depre^sed at maturity ; 
greenish yellow"; srJighlly acid, and of the finest flavour; ripens in No- 
vember, and continues till April. A most estimable apple for cooking 
as well as for the dessert. 

RiRSTONE Pippin, Formosa Pippin, Traver's Apple, Gory of York. 
Fruit of medium size, roundish, and partially depres-ed; of a pale yel- 
low colour, tinged with red; pulp slightly acid, and of fine flavour ; 
ripens in November, and continues till April It a one of the most 
popular dessert apples in England. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP APPLES. 271' 

RoxBURY Russet. This variety is cultivated extensively in Massa- 

flc-^ chusetts for the Boston markets, and for exportation. Tlie fruit is of 

medium size ; of a fine yellow ru-set colour, mixed with dull red ; flesh 

white, juicy, rich, sub-acid and excellent ; for use in Winter, and wi 1 

keep till June 

Sw.AAR Apple. A niuch celebrated Winter table fruit in some parts 
/ ,/ of New York and New Jersey; it is a large green apjjle of uncommon 
flavour and richness ; highly deserving cultivation in every collection of 
fine fruit ; good till March. 

Vandevere. An apple of medium size, the form flat; skin pale red, 
with rough yellowish blotches ; flesh yellow and tender ; juice plentiful, 
rich and sprightly ; from October to January. 

WniTt; Winter Calville, Caltillc Blanche c/^Hiver, Bonnet carre. 
This fruit is large ; its colour at maturity bright yellow, tinged with red ; 
its form rather flat ; flesh white, tender, and pleasant ; from November 
to March. Tree an abundant bearer. 

Wine Apple, Hay's IVinter, Large Winter Red. A variety highly 
esteemed in the Philadelphia markets; the fruit is large ; of bright red 
colour, striped with yellow, the stalk end rus^etty; its flesh is rich, aro- 
matic, and pleasant ; from October to February. The tree bears young 
and abundantly. 

Winter Sweeting, Graften Sweeting, Scavcr Sicceting. This apple 
is large ; its skin smooth, of a bright yellow colour, tinged with blush ; 
its flesh yellow, juicy, sweet, and fine flavoured ; from November until 
March. 

CIDER FRUIT. 

Campfield, or N.iwark Sweetisg. This apple is next in reputa- 
tion, as a cider fruit, to the Harri-on, and is oflen mixed with that apple 
in equal proportions when ground ; it is of the middle size, skin smootti,. 
of red and yellow colour; the flesh is white, firm, sweet, and rich. 

Gbanniwinkle. Fruit of moderate size, rather oblong; the skin a 
dark red, somewhat rough ; flesh yellow, sweet and rich. It is com- 
monly mixed with the Harrison for malving cider of a superior quality ; 
ripe in November. 

Hewf.'s Virgisl\ Crab. From this fruit is obtained the celebrated 
Ctab Cider ; it is of small size, nearly round ; skin of a dull red, streaked 
with greenish yellow; the flesh is fibrous and astringent; juice acid and 
austere. 

Harriso.v. This fruit is much celebrated in New Jersey as a cider 
apple ; it is somewhat ovate, below the middle size ; the skin is yellow, 
with black spots ; flesh yellow, firm, rich and sprightly. Ten bushels 
will make a barrel of exquisite cider, from which may be taken fourteen,: 
quarts, of distilled spirits. 



272 
APRICOT. 

ABBicoTiEn. Prunus Armeniaca. 

The fruit of the Apricot is next in esteem to the Peach, 
and as it rii»ens three or four weeks earlier, should be more 
generally cultivated. The flowers appear in April, on the 
shoots of the preceding year, and on spurs of two or more 
years' growth, and the fruit ripens in July and August. The 
London Horticultural Society's catalogue describes fifty- 
four sorts, and Messrs. Prince have forty-four in their cata- 
logue ; besides these, is the Peach Apricot, a large fruit, 
supposed to be a hybrid between a Peach and an Apricot. 

Our enterprising fellow-citizen, Mr. Wm. Shaw, has suc- 
ceeded for many years in maturing large quantities of this 
excellent fruit on standards; but they ripen best when trained 
against close fences. In England some of the varieties are 
cultivated as standards and espaliers ; they seldom bear much 
fruit under ten or twelve years ; and then the fruit is abun- 
dant and of the finest flavour. They are commonly culti- 
vated as wall trees, in an East or West aspect; for if they 
are planted to face the South, the great heat causes them to 
be mealy before they are eatable. New varieties are procured 
from seed, as in the Peach, and approved sorts are perpetu- 
ated by budding on plum stocks, &c. 

The varieties of the Apricot, in general, bear chiefly upon 
the young shoots of last year^ and casually upon small spurs 
rising on the two or three years old fruit branches. The 
Moor Park bears chiefly on the last year's shoots, and on 
close spurs formed on the two year old wood. The bearing 
shoots emit the blossom buds immediately from the eyes 
along the sides, and the buds have a round and swelling 
appearance. 

Apricot trees may be planted at any time after the head 
is formed : some head them down in the nursery bed, and 
remove them to their destined places when five or six 
years old. 

Standards will require only occasional pruning to regulate 
such branches as may be too numerous, too extended or 



APRICOT. ' 273 

©ross formed, and to remove any casually unfruitful parts 
and dead wood ; but tiie reofular branches, forming the head 
of the tree, should not be shortened unless necessary. 

The general culture of the wall Apricots comprehends a 
Summer and Winter course of regulation, by pruning and 
training. The fan metiiod is generally adopted, but some 
prefer training horizontally. With young trees some contrive 
to fill the wall by heading down twice a year. 

The Winter, or early Spring management, comprehends 
a general regulation both of the last year's shoots and the 
older branches. A general supply of the most regularly 
situated you«g shoots must be every where retained, for 
successional bearers the ensuing year. Cut out such 
branches as are not furnished with competent supplies of 
young wood, or with fruit spurs, to make room for training 
a general supply of the most promising branches retained. 
Generally observe in this pruning to retain one leading 
shoot at the end of each branch; either a naturally placed 
terminal, 'or one formed by cutting (where a vacancy is to 
be furnished) into a proj)er leader. Let the shoots retained 
for bearers be moderately shortened : reduce strong shoots 
in the least proportioned — cutting ofi" one-fourth or less of 
their length ; from weak shoots take away a third, and 
sometimes a half. This shortening will conduce to the 
production of a competency of lateral shoots the ensuing 
Summer, from the lower and middle placed eyes ; whereas 
without it, the new shoots would proceed mostly from the 
top, and leave the underpart of the principal branches naked, 
and the lower and middle parts of the tree unfurnished with 
proper supplies of bearing wood. Never prune below all 
the blossom buds, except to provide wood, in which case 
cut nearer to the origin of the branch. As, in these trees, 
small fruit spurs, an inch or two long, often appear on some 
of the two or three years' brandies furnished with blossom 
buds, these spurs should generally be retained for bearing. 
As each tree is pruned, nail it, laying in the branches and 
shoots from three to six inches distance, straight or close to 
the fence or wall. 

The Summer pruning is principally to regulate the young^ 



S74 APRICOT. 

shoots of the same year. la the first place, take off close 
all the irregular foremost shoots, taking care to retain a 
competent supply of choice side shoots, with a good leader 
to each parent branch. Continue these mostly at full length 
all the Summer, regularly trained in, to procure a sufficiency 
to choose from in the general Winter pruning, for new 
bearers the next year. 

If the Summer regulation commences early, while the 
shoots are quite young, and, as it were, herbaceous, those 
improper to retain may be detached with the finger and 
tiiumb; but when of firmer growth, they must be removed 
with the knife. If any very strong shoots rise in any part 
where the wood is deficient, they may be topped in Junci 
which will cause them to produce several laterals the same 
year, eligible for training in, to supply the vacancy. 

Sometimes thefruit is much too numerous, if not attacked 
by insects, often growing in clusters ; in which case thin 
them while in a young green state, leaving the most pro- 
minent fruit singly, at three or four inches distance, or from 
about two to six on the respective shoots, according to their 
strength. The Apricots so thined off, and the first prin- 
cipal green fruit, are very fine for tarts. 



<' 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APRICOTS. 

B.^i'-DA, Alricot de Hollande, Amandc AtcUnr, Royal Pcrs'an Fruit 
mcdiiiinsizc, of a round form, and deeii yellow colotjr ; the pulp is soft 
and juicy ; the tree a great bearer, and the fruit which ripens early in 
August, is in great esteem. 

Bkdssei.?. Highly esteemed for its productiveness ; fruit medium 
"■»ize, inclining to an oval form ; of a yellow colour, and next the sun co- 
vered with numerous dark spot.s ; the flesh is of a greenish yellow colour, 
of a brisk flavour, and not liable to become mealy ; ripens in August. 

Early Orangk, Royal George, Royal Oravgc. Thefruit of a medium 
size ; of a deep yellow colour, spotted with red or dark purple next the 
min ; flesh deep orange, succulent and well flavoured ; not perfectly a 
free stone ; ripens early in August. 

HEMSKiriKR. Fruit middle sized, roundish, slightly compressed; of a 
bright yellow colour; flesh tender, juicy, with a particularly rich, deli- 
cate flavour, resembling that of the Green Gage Plum ; ripe in J" V 



ALMONDk ' 275 

MooRPARK, Hanson s, Temple's, Dunmore^s Breda. The tree ii of 
vigorous growth, and extraordinarily 2)roductLve ; the fruit is very Icirge ; 
of a bright gold colour, or orange, with dark spots next the sun; flesh 
orange colour, melting and excellent ; ripens early in September. 

MuscH. A fine new variety from Persia ; in shape round; ofadeep 
yellow colour, and remarkable for the transparency of its pulp, through 
which the stone is visible; the flesh is very fine and agreeable; ripens 
in July. 

Peach Araieor, Abricot Peche, Ahricot de Nancy, Imperial Ansons^ 
This is a firit-rate fruit ; form variable, generally flattened ; skin slightly 
downy ; fawn colour next the sun, tinged with reddish spots or points ; 
pulp yellow, melting, juice abundant, high flavoured and excellent ; 
ri2)ens early in August. 

Purple, Alexandrian Ahricot, Abricot Angoiimois, Abricot Violet^ 
Black Apricot. A small, globular, downy fruit, a little oblong ; of a paie 
red colour, becoming deep red or purple next the sun ; flesh pale red, 
but orange next the stone ; a little acid, but good ; ripens in August. 

Red Masculi>Je, Abricot Precoce, Abricot Hutif Musque, Early Mascu- 
line. This is an old and very early variety ; the fruit of which is small, 
of a roundish form, and greenish red colour ; the pulp is tender ; the tre« 
a good bearer, and the fruit esteemed for its earliness and tart taste ; 
ripens in July. 

Royal, Abricot Royale. This fruit is next in size to the MoorparkJ 
rather oval, compressed ; of dull yellow colour, slightly red ; flesh pale 
orange, firm, juicy, sweet, and high flavoured, with a slight acid ; ripena 
early in August. 

Turkey, Large Turkey. A superior A iiricot; fruit of a medium size; 
deep yellow colour, with red blotches next the *un ; form globular ; flesh 
firm, juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in July and August. 



ALMOND. 

A MAN DIE R. Jinnjgdalus. 

Although Almonds are not much cultivated in this part 
of our country, they are entitled to notice. Thespeciesare 
fruit trees, or ornamental trees and shrubs, both much 
esteemed for the gay colour and early appearance of their 
flowers ; these vary in their colour from the fine blush of 
the Apple blossom to a snowy whiteness. The chie.f 
obvious distinction is in the fruit, which is flatter, with a 
coriaceous covering, instead of the rich pulp of the Peach 



12'J'6 



CHERRY. 



and Nectarine, opening spontaneously when the kernel is 
ripe. It is a native of Barbary, China, and most Eastern 
countries. There are twenty-one sorts described in the 
catalogue of the Linnasan Botanic Garden at Flushing ; 
some of which are represented as new kinds from France 
and Italy, where they are cultivated extensively for their 
fruit. 

In France, they have above a dozen species or varieties, 
besides a hybrid, called the Almond Peach. The common 
and bitter Almond are only to be distinguished by the taste 
of the kernels of their fruit, whicli is the only part used. 
The tender-shelled is in the greatest esteem, and next, the 
sweet and Jordan. The bitter cuticle, or skin of Almonds, 
is taken off by immersion in boiling water. 

The sweet Almond and other varieties are used as a 
desert in a green or imperfectly ripe, and also in a ripe or 
dried state. They are much used in cookery, confectionary, 
perfumery, and medicine. 

The Almond is' propagated by seed, for varieties, or 
for stocks ; and by budding on its own, or on Plum 
stocks, for continuing varieties. The Almond tree bears 
chiefly on the young wood of the previous year, and in 
part upon small spurs or minor branches ; it is therefore 
pruned like the Apricot and Peach, and its culture in other 
respects is the same. 



CHERRY. 

Ceuisier. Primus cerasus. 

The Cherry, of the cultivated varieties, is said to have 
been first introduced into Italy in the year 73, from a town 
in Pontus, in Asia, called Cerasus, whence its specific name; 
and it was introduced into Britain one hundred and twenty 
years afterwards. 

The Romans had eight varieties of Cherries, red, black, 
tender-fleshed, hard-fleshed, small bitter flavoured, and 
heart-shaped. There are now ugwards of two hundred in 



CHERRY. 277 

^ttltivation. The French divide their Cherries into griottes, 
or tender-fleshed; bigareau, or heart-shaped, and guignes, 
or small fruit. The fruit of manj varieties is somewhat 
heart-shaped, whence they are called ox-heart, white-heart, 
black-heart, &c. ; why some sorts are called dukes, is not 
so obvious. The morello cherry is very different from the 
other varieties, bearing almost exclusively from the preceding 
year's wood, and the pulp of the fruit having the consistence 
and flavour of the fungi called morel ; whence the name. 
The Chinese Cherry is valuable on account of its bearing 
an excellent fruit, and ripening it in forcing-houses. 

Cherries are grafted, or budded on seedlings from Cherry 
stones, and from seedlings of the red and black mazzard. 
For dwarfing they are worked on the morello, or perfumed 
Cherry ; the latter is preferred in Holland. In this country, 
the budding system is more frequently practised on stone 
fruit in general, than grafting. 

Cherry trees, in general, produce the fruit upon small 
spurs or studs, from half an inch to two inches in length, 
which proceed from the sides and ends of the two year, 
three year and older branches, and as new spurs continue 
shooting from the extreme parts, it is a maxim in pruning 
both standards and espaliers, not to shorten the bearing 
branches when there is room for their regular extension. 

The morello is in some degree an exception, as it bears 
principally on the slioots of the preceding year, the fruit 
proceeding immediately from the eyes of shoots ; and 
bears but casually, and in a small degree, on close spurs 
formed on the two year old wood, and scarcely ever on 
wood of the third year; therefore, in pruning, leave a supply 
of young shoots on all the branches from the origin to the 
extremity of the tree, for next year's bearers. 

All kinds of Cherry trees, except the morello, are apt to 
grow very tall ; to remedy this, and to enable them to form 
handsome heads, the leading shoot should be cut off, when 
about three years' growth from the hud; after which give 
only occasional pruning, to reform or remove any casual 
irregularity from cross-placed or very crowded branches, 
and take away all cankery and decayed wood. 

24 



27S CHERRY. 

Dwarf Cherry trees may be introduced into the Kitclie« 
Garden, and trained as espaliers, &c. When morellos are 
planted in an orchard, tliey may be placed from fifteen to 
twenty feet apart; trees of the duke kind may be planted 
from twenty-five to thirty feet apart ; and the heart-shaped 
in general, will require to be from thirty to forty feet from 
each other, or from any other spreading trees. 

Cherry trees may be removed the first year after the 
bud is established ; but they will bear removing at any 
time before they come into bearing, which is about the 
fifth year. 

The gum which exudes from Cherry trees is equal to 
gum arable ; and Ilasselquist relates, "that more than one 
liundred men, during a siege, were kept alive for nearly 
two months, without any other sustenance than a little of 
this gum taken sometimes into the mouth, and suffered 
gradually to dissolve." The wood is hard and tough, and 
Used by the turner and cabinet maker. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 

DUKE AND ROUND FRUIT. 

Ambkee, Ctrise Amhree. A large cherry with a round head, flattened 
at the opposite end ; marbled with red and yellow in the shade, bright 
red next the sun ; flesh pale yellow, somewhat transparent, very juicy, 
sweet, and excellent ; ripe in June and July. 

Arch Duke, Griotte de Portugal, Portugal Duhc. A large globuhu- 
red cherry ; like the May Duke, it grows in clusters, but the tree grows 
more vigorous than that variety; an excellent Cherry, and a great 
bearer; ripe in July. 

Belle de Choisy, Cerise de la Palemhrce, Cct ise Doucctte. A middle- 
sized, roundish fruit, growing in pairs on a forked stalk; skin transpa- 
rent, red, mottled with amber ; flesh amber-coloured, tender and sweet ; 
ripe in June and July. 

Belle et Magn'ifi^ue. A fine cherry, much esteemed in Massachu- 
setts. The tree is said to be vigorous and productive ; the fruit truly 
magnificent; its colour red, mottled with white spots; valuable from its 
late maturity in July. 

Downkr';s Favourite. A large round cherry , raised by S. Downer, 
Esq. of Dorchester, Mass.; colour light red; flesh firm «nd of a fine 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 279 

sprightly flavour ; ripening after most other superior varieties are gone, 
on which account this variety is highly prized in the markets. 

Holman's Duke. The branches of this tree are more spreading than 
the 3Iay Duke ; the fruit is larger, of equally fine flavour, and ripens 
about two or three weeks later, on which account it is highly esteemed. 

Kentish, Flemish. A middle-sized fruit, roundish, flattened at both 
ends; skin dingy red, marbled; flesh succulent, with a somewhat astrin- 
gent but saccharine juice; makes a delicious sweetmeat; and will keep 
a year by laying the fruit on hair sieves exposed to the sim in July. 

Late Doke, Ju7ie Duke, Cerise, Anglaise, Tardive. A cherry of large 
size ; flesh very rich; it ripens in July, and lasts long on the tree, im- 
proving in its flavour- The tree is of vigorous growth, and an abundant 
bearer. 

Mat Duke. An early globular red cherry, of medium size; it ripens 
in June the flesh is of a soft and an agreeable acid; the tree a good 
bearer, and the fruit excellent. 

MoRELLO, Milan, Cerise du Nord, English Morcllo. The fruit is so 
named from its juice being similar to that of the Morus, or Mulberry. 
It is a delicious, medium-sized, round cherry ; nearly black when at 
jnaturity; tree a great bearer; the fruit will keep late, and is excellent 
for preserving and for brandy. 

Plumstone Morello. a tree of moderate size, of the Duke or 
Kentish species ; a very large, dark, round cherry, nearly black ; of a 
rich acid flavour. The stone is very large, and resembles that of a 
plum; a native of Virginia, introduced by Wm; Prince, Esq of the 
Linnasn Botanic Garden, Flushinjj. 

Waterloo, A large, round, dark cherry, inclining to black at matu- 
rity; the flesh is firm and of an excellent flavour; raised by a daughter 
of iVlr. linight, and so named from its perfecting its fruit soon after the 
battle of Waterloo. The tree is of strong but irregular growth, and 
ripens'its fruit in July. 

HEART-SHAPED OR BIGARREAUS. 

BiGARREAU, Graffion, Turkey Bigarrcau, Yellow Spanish. Very large, 
obtuse, heart-shaped; yellowish amber colour, but fine red next the sun ; 
flesh firm, white, sweet, and well flavoured ; a beautiful and excellent 
fruit ; ripe in June and July. 

Black Eagle. A beautiful variety raised by Miss Knight of Down- 
ton Castle, 1606 : fruit of globular form, and middle size ; skin dark 
purple or nearly black; flesh very tender, rich, and of excellent flavour. 
The tree grows strong, very upright, and ripens its fruit early. 

Black Heart, Guignier a Fruit noir. Fruit rather large, heart- 
shaped; dark purple, approaching to black at maturity ; flesh dark red, 
tender, of excellent flavour ; ripe early in July; tree a good bearer. 

Black Tartarian, Black Circassian, Fraser's Black Tartarian, 
Wttck Russian, Ronald's Large Black Heart, Fraser's Black Heart. 



J 



280 DESCRIPTIVE LIST ON CHERRIES. 

A very large heart-shaped fruit, of a most superior quality ; colour dark 
shining purple, or black ; flesh firm, dark red or purple ; sweet, and of 
most excellent flavour; in June and July. The tree grows rapid, and 
is very productive. 

DowNTON. A new variety raised by Mr. Knight. Fruit rather 
round, inclining to heart-shape ; of a pale yellow colour, sprinkled with 
minute red spots, and large patches of dull red or maroon ; flesh pale 
Amber colour, tender and juicy, very sweet and high flavoured; ripens 
in June and July» 

Elton. This excellent variety was raised by Mr. Knight in 180(>; 
the tree is very vigorous and productive ; the fruit is pretty large, heart- 
shaped ; pale glossy yellow in the shade, but marbled with bright red 
next the sun; flesh firm, sweet and rich; ripens soon after the May 
Duke. 

Florence, A very fine heart-shaped cherry; &f a yellow amber 
colour, marbled with bright red in the shade, bright red next the sun^ 
tolerably firm, juicy, rich and sweet; ripe end of June and in July. 

GiRDLEY, Apple Cherry. A native fruit of mediimi size, which ori- 
ginated on the farm of Mr» Girdley, of Roxbury, near Boston ; the 
colour is black, the flesh firm, of a fine flavour; in July; the tree grows 
vigorous, and is very productive. 

Gascoign's BLEEDiNG Heart. A large sized heart-shaped cherry, 
having the appearance of a small drop or tear at the end; skin of a 
dark red colour; flesh firm, but mellow ; juice plentiful and of excellent 
flavour ; early in July. 

Harrison's Heart, Red Ox Heart. A large heart-shaped cherry; 
yellowish or amber colour, but light red next tlie sun; flesh tender and 
high flavoured ; in June aiid July. 

Knight's Early Black. The blossoms of this variety appear very 
early ; its fruit resembles the Waterloo; of a rich dark hue; its flesh is 
firm, juicy, and abundantly sweet; by the middle of June. 

Mazzard. This cherry grows wild, and is cultivated also in abun^ 
dance in various parts of Englauil. It is the principal fvuit empioyed 
for die making of Cherry Brandy, and the stocks of the species are best 
adapted for nursery -men to bud and graft the better kinds on. 

Napoleon Bigarreau, Bigarrean \apoleon, Lauermann, Gros Bigar- 
rcau dc Lauermann The tree of this variety is remarkable for the 
vigour and beauty of its growth ; it produces a fine large white fruit 
with red spots; the flesh is remarkably white, solid, and of a sweet 
agreeable flavour ; early in July. 

Remi.n'gton White Hbvrt. A moderate sized cherry, of pleasant 
flavour; chiefly valuable for its very late maturity, being towards the 
end of August. It is said to have originated in Rhode Island. 

White Tartarian, JVhite Transparent Crimea, Eraser's White A 
beautiful cherry, pale yellow, approaching to an amber next the suuj 
a much admired fruit, of excellent flavQur; a good bearer, riperun§ 
early in July. 



281 
CHESTNUT. 

Chataioner. Castanea. 

The Chesttmt is well known as a large tree, spreading 
its branches finely where it has room, but planted closely, 
will shoot up straight to a great height. It is supposed to 
have been originally from Sardis. It is so common as to 
be considered a native of France and Italy, and some 
consider it as naturalized in England; it is also indigenous 
in America. The London catalogue contains the names 
of thirty-two sorts under cultivation. The Chestnut is like 
the Walnut, both a timber and fruit tree ; some of the oldest 
trees in the world are of this species.* The American 
Chestnut differs so little from the European, that no specific 
distinction can be drawn. It is one of the largest trees of 
the forest, the wood being extremely durable, and in high 
esteem for posts and rails to construct fences ; and the nuts 
are very delicious. The Castaiiea pujnila, or Chinquapin 
nut, is a small tree, or rather shrub;^ growing to the height 
of thirty feet in the Southern States, but seldom exceeding 
ten in cold latitudes ; the fruit is very sweet and agreeable 
to eat. 

There is a variety with striped leaves, which is very 
ornamental. The most esteemed of the French kinds are 
called Marron. Some excellent fruit-bearing varieties are 
cultivated in England, France, Italy and Spain, as also in 
other parts of Europe ; these are increased by grafting or 
budding in the usual methods, but the plants for coppice 
wood, or timber, are best raised from nuts. Some varieties 
ripen their fruit a few days earlier than others, but none of 
these have been fixed on, or perpetuated by nurserymen, so 
as to render them available by purchasers. The fruit is a 
desirable nut for Autumn and Winter, and is eaten roasted, 



' At Fortvvorth, in Gloucestershire, England, is a large tree, fifty-two 
feet round; whichiullSU was called the"great Chestnut of Forlworlh." 
Marsham states that this tree is 1100 years old, and that the timber is 
almost incorruptible, and more durable than oak. Its durability is 
commensurate with the long life of the tree. 

24* 



282 , CRANBEKRY. 

with salt, and sometimes raw ; and in some countries it is 
not only boiled and roasted, but ground into meal; and 
puddings, cakes, and bread, are made from it. 



CRANBERRY. 

Canneberge. Oxycocus. 

This genus of plants is well distinguished from the 
T^accimM?rt,or Whortleberry, by the narrow revolute segments 
of corolla; and are pretty little traihng evergreen plants^ 
to which a peat soil, and rather moist situations, are 
absolutely necessary. They are very little changed by 
culture. 

The Oxycocus macrocarpus is a red acid fruit, highly 
valued as a sweetmeat, or for tarts. It is well known that 
this excellent fruit grows in many parts of our country 
spontaneously ; and that the mere gathering it, is all that 
bountiful Nature requires at our hands ; but it is well worth 
cultivating where there are none. This fruit will keep a 
whole year, if properly preserved in close covered stone 
jars, and is considered, by many, as superior to the best 
currant jelly, and may be kept for many months i*i a raw 
state without injury. 

The Oxycocus palustris bears edible berries, which are 
gathered wild both in England and Scotland, and made 
into tarts. Lighlfoot says, that twenty or thirty pounds 
worth are sold each market day, for five or six weeks 
together in the toAvn of Langtown, on the borders of 
Cumberland. 

Nicol says, the American species is more easily cul- 
tivated than the English, but is inferior to it in flavour 
There i.s reason to believe that the quality of the fruit of 
each of these species is subject to variations, which 
have not yet been practically distinguished. Their cul- 
tivation is now so well understood, that they may be 
both considered with propriety as inmates of the fruit garden. 



CURRANT. 283 

It is customary in England to prepare beds on the edges 
of ponds, which are banked up so as to admit of the wet 
getting underneath them ; bog or peat earth is considered 
essential for the roots to run in, but it has been discovered 
that they can be cultivated in damp situations of a garden, 
with a top dressing of peat or bog earth, and if they are 
once suited as to the soil, the plants will multiply so as to 
cover the bed in the course of a year or two, by means of 
their long runners, Avhich take root at different points. 
From a very small space a very large quantity of Cranberries 
may be gathered ; and they prove a remarkably regular 
crop, scarcely affected by the state of the weather, and not 
subject to the attacks of insects. Sir Joseph Banks gives 
an account in fHort. Trans. 1, 71,) of his success in culti- 
vating this fruit. " In one year, viz,, 1813, from 326 square 
feet, or a bed about eighteen feet square, three and a half 
Winchester bushels of berries were produced, which, at five 
bottles to the gallon, gives one hundred and forty bottles, 
each sufficient for one cranberry pie, from two and a half 
square feet." 



CURRANT. 

Groseiller a grappes. Rihts. 

This is a genus of well known shrubs, much cultivated 
for their fruit. It is a native of the Northern parts of 
Europe, and found in hedges and woods in England ; and 
there are some species indigenous in America. The fruit, 
being of an agreeable sub-acid toste, is generally relished 
both as a dessert, and in pies and tarts ; it is also much 
used in making wine, and is grown to a considerable extent 
for that purpose in Essex, Kent, and about Pershore, in 
Worcestershire, England, There are ten species cultivated 
in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, 
comprising twelve varieties of red, ten of white, five kinds 
of black, together with champagne, mountain, rock, upright^ 
Penusylvanian, &c. Any number of varieties of the Pud and 



284 CURRANT. 

white may be procured from sowing the seeds, but they nre 
generally propagated by cuttings of the last year's wood, 
which should be of sufficient length to form handsome 
plants, with a clear stem, ten inches high ; these may be 
planted immediately upon losing their leaves in Autumn, 
or very early the ensuing Spring. 

The Currant will grow in almost every soil, but prospers 
best in one loamy and rich. The best flavoured fruit is 
produced from plants in an open situation, but they will 
grow under the shades of walls or trees, and either as low 
liushes, or trained as espaliers. They bear chiefly on spurs, 
and on young wood, of from one to three years' growth, and 
therefore, in pruning, most of the young wood should be cut 
to within two or three buds of that where it originated. 
After the plants are furnished with full heads, they produce 
many superfluous and irregular shoots every Summer, 
crowding the general bearers, so as to require regulating, 
and curtailing, both in the young growth of the year, and in 
older wood. 

The principal part of the work may be done in Winter, 
or early in the Spring; but a preparatory part should be 
performed in Summer, to eradicate suckers, and thin the 
superfluous shoots of the year, where they are so crowded as 
to exclude the sun and air from the fruit. In training 
espaliers and for standards, two branches are laid in a 
horizontal direction along the bottom of the trellis, perhaps 
half a foot from the surface of the earth, and the growth 
from these of all upright shoots, which will admit of being 
arrano-ed at the distance of five or six inches of each oiher, 
is encouraged. Fan standards are sometimes trained with 
the branches radiating from the crown of the stem. 

The black Currant, or Ribes nigrum, is common in moist 
Avoods in Russia and Siberia ; its culture is similar to that 
of the red, but as it is less apt to bear on spurs than on 
young wood, the shoots should not be so much shortened 
in this as in the other. 

Currant bushes will require to be planted at diflerent 
distances, according to the situation and mode of training, 
&c. When planted in beds, borders, or squares, they 



FIG. 



28; 



should be six feet apart, but if trained as espaliers, they 
will require to be eight feet apart. 

Many people dislike the flavour of black Currants, they 
are, therefore, not much used in the kitchen or dessert, and 
seldom in wine making. Tliey make a jelly or jam, in 
estimation as a gargle for inflammatory sore throats. "In 
Russia and Siberia, wine is made of the berries alone, or 
fermented with lioney, and with or without spirits. In 
Siberia they make a drink of the leaves ; these tincture 
common spirits so as to resemble brandy, and a few of them 
dried and mixed with black tea, answer all the purposes of 
the green material." — {Loudon.) 

All kinds of Currants may be forced by placing them in 
any forcing department in January or February ; they will 
produce ripe fruit in April and May. 



FIG. 

FiGuiER. Ficus carica. 

There are many species of the Fig, which are all natives 
of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and in the South 
of Europe, they are always grown as standards; and the 
fruit, green and dried, forms an important part of the food 
of the inhabitants. The London Horticultural catalogue 
contains the names of seventy-five sorts ; and Messrs.Prince, 
of Flushing, have upwards of forty in their collection, some 
of which are select sorts from France and Italy. It is 
cultivated in England as a fruit tree, and, in warm situations, 
will ripen its fruit in the open air. In Sussex, on the 
sea-coast, it ripens its fruit on standards. Some of the best 
in England, are at Arundel Castle; and there is a Fig 
orchard of one hundred trees at Tarring, near Worthing. 
Those at Arundel are planted six or eight feet apart, and 
from a single stem allowed to continue branching conical 
heads, pruning chiefly irregular and redundant growths, and 
cutting out decayed or injured wood. 



286 FtG. 

The Fig tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings, 
layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting ; the most generally 
approved method is by layers or cuttings, which come into 
bearing the second, and sometimes the first year. No tree 
is more robust or more prolific ; even plants in pots or tubs 
kept in a temperature adapted for the Orange tree, will fruit 
freely, and ripen two crops a year, and by being taken care 
of through the Winter, will go on growing and ripening fruit 
whiihout intermission. Mr. Knight has obtained from his 
hot-house in England, eight successive crops in a year, by 
bending the limbs in a position below the horizontal. The 
trees will produce tolerable crops in the second year if rung 
or decorticated ; and by this process maturity of the fruit 
is accelerated, and its size increased. Its maturity is also 
hastened hy pricking the fruit with a straw or quill dipped in 
olive oil, or even by slightly touching the fruit with oil, at 
the finger's end. In Fig countries the fruit is preserved by 
dipping it in scalding lye, made of the ashes of the fig tree 
and then dried in the Sun. 

When Figs are cultivated in a garden, a good loamy soil 
should be provided ; and they may be trained to close fences, 
or trellises, in sheltered situations. At the approach of 
W^inter they must be protected ; those trained to close fences 
may be secured through the Winter, by a covering of 
matting ; and such as may be in open situations should be 
liberated from the trellis, and laid down close to the ground, 
and covered three or four inches with earth ; or trenches may 
be formed of that depth, sufficient to contain the branches, 
which should be fastened down wi'.h hooked pegs, without 
cramping them : such of the strong central branches as will 
not bend, may be enveloped in litter. They should be 
pruned before they are laid down in November, and on 
being raised again in April, they may be trained as before. 
Figs may be cultivated in private gardens as easily as 
the vine. 



2sr 

t^ILBERT AND HAZLENUT'* 

NolSETIER AVELIXIER. CovyluS. 

The Filbsrt, in many varieties, a-id also the common 
Hazlenut, grow spontaneously in the woods of Britain, and 
some few varieties are indigenous in this country. The 
kindsof Filberts generally cultivated, are the white, red, cob, 
clustered, and frizzled ; of each of which there are many 
varieties. As this shrub is so easily cultivated, it is a matter 
of astonishment that the nuts from this genus of plants are 
so scarce in our markets. In difiVrent parts of England 
there are Filbert orchards. In the Filbert grounds about 
Maidstone, in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate 
Hops, standard Apples, and Cherries, among the Filberts; 
when these come into a bearing state, the Hops are taken 
up and transplanted elsewhere, and the fruit trees only 
suffered to remain. The spare ground is then planted with 
Gooseberries, Currants, &c. The red Filbert is allowed to 
have a liner flavour than the white. The Cob-nut is large, 
with a thick shell, but the kernel is sweet and of considerable 
size. The Barcelona is a good large nut, with a thin shell. 
The Crossford is very sweet, kernels well, and the tree is 
a great bearer. 

All the different kinds may be grown as dwarf standards ; 
or they will bear very well if planted in clumps ; but as 
they produce an abundance of suckers, these should be 
parted off frequently, and planted in a nursery bed for 
stocks ; as the bearing plants will cease to produce fruit in 
any quantity, if the suckers are allowed to form a thick 
bush. They may be propagated by seed, by suckers; 
by layers, or by grafting in the Spring upon seedling or 
sucker stocks. 

The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the upper 
young branches, and from small shoots which proceed from 
the bases of side branches cut off the preceding year. The 
leading shoot is every year to be .shortened, and every 
shoot that is left to produce fruit should be clipped: which 
prevents the tree from being exhausted in making wood at 



288 



GOOSEBERRY. 



the end of the branch — Such branches as may have borne 
fruit, must be cut out every year, in order to promote the 
growth of a supply of young fruit-bearing branches. 



GOOSEBERRY. 

G-RosEiLLKR. Ribes grossularia, nda, crispa, etc. 

The GoosebeiTy is a native of several parts of Europe, 
and is indigenous in America, as far North as C8°. It is 
cultivated to greater perfection in England than in any 
other part of the world. In Spain and Italy, this fruit 
is scarcely known. In France it is neglected. In Lan- 
cashire, England, and some parts of the adjoining counties, 
almost every cottager cultivates the Gooseberry, with a view 
to prizes given at what are called Gooseberry Prize Meet- 
ings; of these, tliere is annually published an pccouiit 
with the names and weight of the successful sorts, in what 
is called the Manchester Gooseberry Book. The prizes 
vary from ten shillings to five and ten pounds sterling. 
There are meetings held in the Spring to "make up," as the 
term is, the sorts, tiie persons, and the conditions of exhi- 
bition ; and in August, to weigh and test the fruit, and 
determine the prizes. 

In Lindley's Guide to ihe Orchard and Fruit Garden, 
722 varieties are described ; from Avhich the following are 
selected, as in most repute for size, flavour, and other good 
qualities : 



BaiTrsH Crown. This variety is noted as l)eing a fine flavoured 
fruit, especially for tarts. 33 prizes had been awarded for it in 1829 > 
the largest berry weighing 18 pennyweights and 10 grains. 

Champagn'e, The fruit of this variety is held in great esteem for iia 
delicious flavour; the berry is of medium size, somewhat oblong and 
hairy. 

Capper's Top Sawyer. This is a late fruit, of oblong shape, and 
hairy near the base. 171 prizes were obtained for this in 1828 and*? 
the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. 



GtK)SEBERRIES. 289 

Crown Bob, Meli.ing's. This variety won 85 prizes in two seasons ; 
the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. 12 grains. It is a late fruit, of 
oblong shajje, bright red colour, and hairy. 

HoNTSMAN. This variety, which originated with Mr. Bratherton, 
took 216 prizes in 18-28 and 9 ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. 

Lancashire Lad, Hartshorn's 156 prizes were awarded for this 
variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains. 

Marquis of Stafford, Knight's. This much esteemed late variety, 
is hairy, of medium size, bright red colour, and delicious flavour. 

Prince Regent, Boardman's. This variety won 141 prizes in two 
.seas ons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains. 

RoARi:*G Lios, Farmer's. In 18i8, 349 prizes were awarded for 
this variety; and in 1829 it won 453 prizes ; the largest berry weighing 
29 dwts. ; since which time, berries have beeo known to weigh over 
one ounce and a half each. 

Sir. John Cotgrave, B.-iatherton's. This variety took 343 prizes 
in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 25 dwts. 2 grains. 

YELLOWS. 

Bunker's Hill, Capper's. 210 prizes were awarded for this variety 
intAvo years ; the heaviest berry weighin;f 20 dwts. 2 grains. 

Britannia. This variety is noted for its earliness and delicious 
flavour. The fruit is of medium size, weighing about 18 dwts. 

Cottage Girl,, Hraps'^. This variety won 133 prizes in two sea- 
sons; the largest berry weighmg 19 dwts. 14 grains. 

Gunner, Hardcastle's. 192 prizes were given for this variety in 
1628 ; and in 1829, 181 prizes were awarded ; the heaviest berry weigh- 
ing 24 dwts. 5 grains ; fruit rather late. 

RocKwooD, Pp.ophet's. The fruit of this variety is very early ; it is 
of a roundish oblong shape, and slightly hairy. It won 303 prizes in 
two years ; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. 3 grains 

Sovereign, Bratherton's, 202 prizes were obtained for this variety 
in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. 

Viper, Gordon's. This is an early smooth fruit, and won 87 prize? 
in two years ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 5 grains. 

GREENS. 

Angler, Colliers. 355 prizes were awarded lor this variety in two 
seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 1 grain. 

Early Green, Hairv. This variety is described in the Pomological 
Magazine as a very early fruit ; it is round, hairy, of deep green colour 
and excellent flavour, but not large. 

■ Favoukite, Bates's. 235 prizes were given for this variety in two 
years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 20 grains. 

25 



290 GOOSEBERRIES. 

Gkebnwood, Berry's. This variety obtained 204 prizes in two sea* 
sons ; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 4 grains. It fs a dehciously 
flavoured fruit 

Indkpbndent, Bigg's. 121 prizes were given for this variety in two 
years ; the largest berry weighing 16 dwts. 4 grains. It is an early 
rich fruit. 

Ocean, Waihmah's. This variety won 278 prizes in two seasons; 
the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 8 grains. The fruit is oblong and 
smooth. 

Troubler, Moore's. IGO prizes were taken for this variety in two 
years ; tlie largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 13 grains. 

WHITES. 

BoNNV Lass, Capper's. This variety won 167 prizes in two seasons ; 
the heaviest berry weighing 21 dwts, 10 grains. 

Cheshire Lass, Saunders's. This is one of the earliest varieties, and 
makes excellent tarts. The fruit is large, oblong, downy, and fine 
flavoured. 

GovERNKss, Brathertok's. 124 jjrizes Were awarded for this variety 
in two years ; the largest berry weighing 24 dwts. 

Ladv Delamere, Wylds's. This variety took 253 prizes in two 
seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 6 grains. 

Nailer, Blomiley's. 134 prizes were given for this variety in twcr 
.seasons ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 12 grains. 

Queen Caroline. This variety won 142 prizes in two years; the 
heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 1 grain. It is a richly flavoured fruit. 

Wellington's Glory. 173 j^rizes were obtained in two seasons for 
this variety ; the largest berry weighing 20 dwts. 4 grains. 

White Eagle, This variety gained 476 prizes in twe seasons ; the 
heaviest berry weighing 23 dwts. 12 grains. 

White Lion, Chelworth's. 102 prizes were given for this variety 
in two years ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains: The 
fruit is late, shghtly hairy, and excellent for tarts. 

Whitesmith, Woodward's. This is a small early berry, weighing 
aboull4 dwts. The skin is downy, and tlie fruit is fully equal to any 
gooseberry of its colour. 



The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes 
applicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is usually 
adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seed for pro- 
curing them. The cuttings should be taken from promising 
shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in the Autumn ; 
the greatest part of the buds should be taken off, leaving 



GOOSEBERRY. '291 

only two or three buds on the top. Cut them at such a 
length as the strength and ripeness of the wood will bear ; 
and plant them in good pulverized soil. On the approach 
of Winter, lay some moss or litter around them ; and, by 
being well cultivated, they will be fit to transplant when 
they are a year old. 

When bushes are procured from the public nurseries, let 
the general supply be in such kinds as will ripen in 
succession. They may be planted in the kitchen garden, 
in single rows, along the side of the wallis or paths, or in 
compartments by themselves, in rows from six to eight feet 
apart from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the rows ; 
or in small gardens, they may be trained to a single tall 
stem, and tied to a stake: this though six or eight feet high, 
occasions scarcely any shade, and it does not occupy much 
room, nor exclude air, while, at the same time, the stem 
becomes closely hung with berries, and makes a pleasant 
appearance in that state. Persons of taste may train them 
on arched trellises, which, if judiciously managed, the ground 
around them may be more easily cultivated ; the fruit may 
be kept from being splashed with rain, and may be easily- 
gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading with mats, 
&c. Those who may have a choice of soil and site, should 
fix on a good, rich loamy earth, and plant some of the choice 
kinds in a Northern and Eastern aspect, near the fence, to 
come late in succession- 

The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the shoots 
of the preceding year, and on shoots two or three years old, 
but also on spurs or snags arising from the older branches 
along the sides ; but the former afford the largest fruit- 
The shoots retained for bearers should therefore be left at 
full length, or nearly so ; the first pruning should be done 
before the buds swell, so as not to endanger their being 
rubbed off in the operation. Cut out all the superfluous cross 
shoots, and prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some 
well placed lateral or eye : retain a sufficiency of the young 
well situated lateral and terminals, to form successional 
bearers. In cutting out superfluous and decayed wood, be 
careful to retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal 



292 GOOSEBERRV. 

branch. The superfluous young laterals on the good main 
branches, instead of being taken off clean, may be cut into 
little stubs of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit 
buds and spurs. 

Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on right 
principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly full of young wood 
in Summer, from which the fruit is- always small, and does 
not ripen freely with full flavour ; on which account it is an 
important point in pruning, to keep the middle of the head 
open and clear, and to let the occasional shortening of the 
shoots be sparing and m(>derate. Between the bearing 
branches keep a regulated distance of at least six inches at 
the extremities, which will render them fertile bearers of 
good fruit. 

The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire, arc 
particular in preparing a, very rich soil, and they water 
occasionally with liquor which drains from dunghills ; and 
there are some, who, not content with watering at the root 
and over the top, place a small saucer of water under each 
Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are left on a bush ; 
this is technically called suckling. — There are others that 
ring some of the branches ; this is done by cutting out small 
circles of bark round them, and by pmching off a great 
part of the young wood, the strength is thrown to the fruit. 

Unripe Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against 
Winter: some after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand 
them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them 
gradually through without cracking them ; they will keep 
a whole year, if closely corked, and sealed as soon as cold. 

The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, placed 
in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. "Hay, plants in 
pots in November, removes lo the peach-house in January, 
and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which he sends to 
table growing on the plants." — [Uorf. Trans. 4. 415^) 



293 
GRAPE. 

ViGNE. Vitis, vinifera, vulpina. 

The Grape Vine is described by Loudon, as a trailing 
deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted irregular stem, and 
long flexible branches, decumbent, like those of the bramble, 
or supporting themselves when near other trees, by means 
of tendrils, like the pea. The leaves are large, lobed, 
entire, or serrated and downy, orsmooth, green in Summer, 
but when mature, those of varieties in which the predomi- 
nating colour is red, constantly change to, or are tinged 
with some shade of that colour ; and those of white, green, 
or yellow grapes, as constantly change to a yellow, and are 
never in the least tinged either with purple, red, or scarlet. 
The breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or 
ten inches, and the length of the foot stalks from four 
to eight inches. The flowers are produced on the shoots of 
the same year, which shoots generally proceed from those 
of the year preceding : they are in the form of a raceme, of 
a greenish white colour, and fragrant odour, appearing in 
the open air in June ; and the fruit, which is of the berry 
kind, attains such maturity as the season and situation admit^ 
by the middle or end of September, The berry, or grape, 
is generally globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or fin. 
ger-shaped ; the colours green,, red, yellow, amber, and 
black, or a variegation of two or more of these colours. 
The skin is smooth, the pulp and juice of a dulcet, poignant, 
elevated, generous flavour. Every berry ought to enclose 
five small heart, or pear-shaped stones ; though, as some 
generally fail, they have seldom more than three, and some 
varieties, as they attain a certain age, as the Ascalon, or 
sultana raisin, none. The weight of a berry depends not 
only on its size, but on the thickness of its skin and texture 
of the flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy 
sorts, as the sweet water or muscadine ; and what are 
considered as large-berried of these varieties, will weigh 
from five to seven penny-weights, and measure from one to 
two-thirds of an inch in girth. A good sized bunch of the 

25* 



294 GRAPE. 

same sorts may weigh from two to six pounds ; but bunches 
have been grown of the Syrian grape, in Syria, weighing 
forty pounds, and in England weighing from ten to nineteen 
pounds. A single Vine in a large pot, or grown as a dwarf 
standard, in the manner practised in the vineyards in the 
North of France, ordinarily produces from three to nine 
bunches : but by superior management in gardens in 
England, the number of bunches isprodigiously increased, 
and one plant, that of the red Hamburgh sort, in the vinery 
of the royal gardens at Hampton Court, has produced 
two thousand two hundred bunches, averaging one pound 
each, or in all nearly a ton. That at Valentine, in Essex, 
has produced two thousand bunches of nearly the same 
average weight. 

The age to which the Vine will attain in warm climates 
is so great as not to be known. It is supposed to be equal 
or even to surpass that of the Oak. Pliny speaks of a Vine 
which had existed six hundred years ; and Bose says, there 
are Vines in Burgundy upwards of four hundred years- 
of age. 

In Italy there are vineyards which have been in a, 
flourishing state for upwards of three centuries, and Miller 
tells us that a vineyard a hundred years old is reckoned 
young. The extent of the branches of the Vine, in certain 
situations and circumstances, is commensurate with its 
produce and age. In. the hedges of Italy, and woods of 
America, they are found overtopping the highest Elm and 
Poplar trees ; and in England one plant trained against a 
row of houses in Northallerton (lately dead) covered a space 
in 1585, of one hundred and thirty seven square yards ; it 
was then above one hundred years old. That at Hampton 
Court, nearly of the same age, occupies abov£ one hundred 
and sixteen square yards; and that at Valentine, in 
Essex, above one hundred and forty-seven square yards. 
The size to which the trunk, or stem, sometimes attains in 
warm climates, is so great, as to have afforded planks 
fifteen inches broad, furniture, and statues ; and the 
Northallerton ^Vine, above mentioned in 1785, measured 
four feet in circumference near the ground, and one branch 



SRAPB. 295 

of the Hampton Court Vine measures one hundred and 
fourteen feet in length. Vine timber is of great dura- 
bility. 

The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is grown 
for the wine press, are as numerous as the vineyards ; for as 
these for the most part differ in soil, aspect, elevation, or 
otherwise, and as the Vine is greatly the child of local 
circumstances, its habits soon become adapted to those iri 
which it is placed. When it is considered that a vineyard 
once planted will last two or three centuries, it will readily 
be conceived that the nature of a variety may be to- 
tally changed during only a part of that lime. The 
varieties mostly in esteem for wine making, are small 
berries, and bunches with an austere taste. The Bur. 
gundy, as modified by different soils and situations, 
may be considered the most general vineyard Grape of 
France, from Champagne or Marne, to Marseilles or 
Bordeaux. 

The best wine in Italy and Spain is also made from 
Grapes of this description; but in both countries many of the 
larger berried sorts are grown on account of their pro- 
ducing more liquor. The sweet wines, a& the Malmsey, 
Maderia, Constantia, Tokay, &.c. are made from sweet- 
berried grapes allowed to remain on tlio plants till over 
ripe. That wine is ihe strongest, and has most flavour, 
in which both the skins and stones are bruised and 
fermented. The same thing is the case in making cider ; 
but in both processes bruising the stones or kernels is 
often neglected. The vine was formerly extensively cul- 
tivated in Britain for the wine press, but its culture is now 
confined to the garden as a dessert fruit; and they have in 
that country not only the best varieties, but they grow the 
fruit to a larger size, and of a higher flavour, than is 
done any where else in the world : this is owing to the 
perfection of their artificial climates, and the great atten- 
tion paid to soil and sub-soil, and other points of culture. 
The fruit is produced in some vineries during every, 
aaoath in the year ; and in the London markets (generally) 



296 GRAPE. 

it is to be had in the highest degree of perfection from 
March to January. 

Tlie Vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bottom ; 
and in such as are rich and deep it will grow luxuriantly, 
and produce abundance of large fruit; in shallow, dry, 
chalky, or gravelly soils, it will produce les^ fruit, but of 
"tjetter flavour. Speechly recommends dung reduced to a 
black mould, the dust and dirt of roads, the oflfal of animals^ 
or butcher's manure, horn shavings, old rags, shavings of 
leather, bone dust, dung of deer and sheep, human excrement 
when duly meliorated by time, a Winter's frost, and re- 
peatedly turning over. Abercrombie says, that dung out of 
a cov/-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the Vine ; 
he recommends drainings from dunghills to be used over the 
ground once in ten or fourteen days from the time the buds 
rise, till the fruit is set, and that fresh horse dung be spread 
over the ground in Autumn as a manure, and also to protect 
the roots from the inclemency of the weather ; some, 
however, disapprove of manuring high, as being calculated 
to produce wood rather than fruit. 

The general mode of propagating the Vine is by cuttings, 
either a foot or more long, with a portion of two year old 
wood, or short, with only one bud, or one bud and a half 
joint, «fec. Vines are to be had at the nurseries, propagated 
either from layers, cuttings, or eyes ; but plants raised from 
cuttings are generally preferred ; many are of opinion that 
it is a matter of indiiference from which class the choice is 
made, provided the plants are Mell rooted, and in good 
health, and the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility 
is to select the plants in the nursery a year before wanted, 
and to order them to be potted in very large pots. Varieties 
without end are raised from seed, and it is thought that by 
propagating from the seeds of successive generations, some 
sorts may ultimately be procured, better adapted for ripen- 
ing their fruit in the open air than now known. A seedling 
Vine, carefully treated, will show blossoms in its fourth or 
fifth year ; say that it produces a fair specimen of its fruit 
Ml the sixth year, then a new generation may be obtained 



GHAPE. 297 

80 often ; but seeds ought never to be sown, except for 
experiment. 

William Robert Prince, Esq. in his Treatise on the Vine, 
published 1830, enumerates about five hundred and fifty 
varieties in cultivation, in the vineyard attached to the 
Linnfean Botanic Garden at Flusliing, including about 
ninety American native Grapes ; but no sufficient evidence 
has as yet been exhibited of vineyards flourishing here 
equal to vt^hat they do in Europe. Mr. Loiibat has at- 
tempted to establish a vineyard on Long Island, which he 
abandoned after six years' arduous exertion. The following 
have been found to succeed best in the vicinity of New-York: 
the Sweetwater, the Chasselas, the Muscadine, the White 
Tokay, the Black Hamburgh, the Blue Cortiga, the Miller 
Burgundy, the Austrian ?Iuscadel, the Messlier, the Mor- 
ilon, the Black Prince, Blanc, and some excellent seedhnff 
sorts from the imported Lisbon Grapes. To plant a vinery 
for a full crop of good Grapes of various flavours, take a 
white and red Muscat, a white and red, or black Muscadine» 
a white and red Frontignac, a black or red Muscadel, a 
white Raisin Grape, a white and red Hamburgh, a Stilweil'sj 
and red Sweetwaters, a wliite and red Nice, a black 
Damascus, a red Syracuse, and a black Constantia. The 
above list contains some of the most esteemed table 
Grapes of all colours and flavours, which will ripen in 
succession. The most preferable kinds of our native 
Grapes, for private gardens, are the '• Catawba,' the York, 
(Pa), 'Black Madeira,' the Schuylkill, Muscadel, and the 
Isabella. To these may be added the Scuppernong, or 
Hickman Grape, which is said to be larger than the Fox 
Grape, of a deligluful perfume, and when ripe, it is of a 
yellowish white colour. 

Previous to planting Vines, care should be taken that the 
ground be well pulverized and prepared for some distance 
around for the roots to spread. The soil should be deep and 
dry, and some rich compost, or vegetable mould, should be 
used around the roots in filling in ; a handful or two of wet 
ashes to each plant is recommended by Mr^, Loubat as 



298 BRAPB. 

beneficial ; and he recommends the planting to be done in 
the month of March, or early in April. 

There are various methods adopted in training and pru- 
ning the Vine ; and it appears impossible to lay down rules 
to suit every cultivator. The Vine having, like other trees, 
a tendency to produce its most vigorous shoots at the 
extremities of the branches, and particularly so at those 
which are situated highest, it generally happens, when it is 
trained high, that the greater portion of the fruit is borne near 
the top ; and it has been observed, that the fruit produced 
on the vigorous shools, which naturally grow at the extremi- 
ties of the long branches, is generally more abundant, and 
of finer quality, than that prodnced on the short lateral ones, 
from which circumstance, high training seems to be the best 
calculated for private gardens. 

In some parts of Italy, Vines are cultivated together with 
Mulberry trees, and are allowed to nlingle and hang in 
festoons ; thus silk and wine are produced on the same 
spot ; and it is considered that when Vines are allowed to 
grow over trees, on the side of a house, or on bowers, or 
erttended on tall poles, without much trimming, they will 
produce more fruit, and are not so liable to mildew. 

Dr. G. W. Chapman of New- York, having paid some 
attention to the cultivation of native Grapes, observes, that 
the Vine, in its natural state, seldom or ever throws out 
bearing shoots until it reaches the top of the tree on which 
it ascends, when the branches take a horizontal or descend- 
ing poi^ition. From this fact, he considers horizontal training 
preferable to that in the fan shape. From the experiments 
he has made, he has found that the shoots coming from those 
parts of the branches bent downwards, are more productive 
than from those ascending ; he considers deep digging 
around the Vine, even to the destruction of some of the 
extending roots, as calculated to promote the growth of more 
fruit and less wood, than if allowed to spread near the sur- 
face : and he disapproves stopping the shoots before the 
fruit until early in July. 

Mr. William Wilson of Clermont, leaves his Vines their 
whole length at the time of trimming in October. In 



GRAPE. '299 

November, they are laid on the ground at full length,fastened 
down with pins, and covered lightly with earth ; in this 
state they lie all the Winter. In April, as soon as the wea- 
ther will permit, they are uncovered, and left lying on the 
ground ten or twelve days : by the first of May, the Vines 
are trained to stakes or poles of the length of ten feet and 
upwards; and by the middle of June, the stakes are entirely 
covered by new shoots of the Vine, and with plenty of fruif, 
which ripens in September. Mr. W. says, that until he 
pursued his present course, his fruit was frequently blasted 
and mildewed, ^but that he has now Vines twenty or thirty 
feet long, which run up the fruit trees adjoining; others, 
being carried up eight or ten feet, are stretched horizontally. 
It is seldom he gathers fruit within three or four feet of the 
ground, and he has never any blasted or infected with 
mildew; he keeps the ground cultivated by frequent 
hoeing and raking ; but he says he has used no manure for 
ten years, or more. 

Edward H. Bonsall, Esq., has a vineyard of American 
Grapes at Germantown, Pa., in a high state of ciiltivation. 
In page 331 of Prince's Treatise on the Vine, is a letter to 
the author, containing some valuable information, from 
which the- following is extracted as appropriate to our 
subject. 

Mr. Bonsall's vineyard is situated between the Schuylkill 
and Delaware Rivers, four miles from the former, and eight 
from the latter, at an elevation of 300 feet above their level, 
has an aspect facing S. S. E., with a substratum of light 
isinglass soil, and seems well suited to the purpose. He 
says, " from my experience, both on my premises, and at 
other places, it is my opinion that we should reject almost 
all the foreign varieties, especially where our object in culti- 
vating them is to make wine." He has upwards of thirty 
varieties of American Vines under cultivation ; he recom- 
mends preparing the ground by ploughing with two ploughs 
with strong teams, one immediately behind the other, in the 
same furrow, each of them set deep ; and after the plough- 
ing is completed, to be harrowed thoroughly. Then in the 
direction the rows are intended to be planted, parallel 



500 CIJAPIE. 

furrows are run across the field, at the distance of eight feet 
from each other ; these are afterwards crossed at right 
angles, five feet asunder. In the opening, at the intersection 
of these furrows, cuttings from nine to twelve inches long 
are planted, and arranged with a view to the Vines being, 
when grown, at distances of four hy seven feet from each 
other ; to this end, he frequently plants two cuttings in a 
place, some of wliich are used to fill up with, in case of 
failures. He says, that in 1829 he planted in nursery beds 
from two to three thousand cuttings as late as the middle of 
April to the midd!?: of May, with better success than at any 
previous time. " In this case the slips should be kept in a 
cool damp place, where vegetation may be held in check. 
To insure their freshness, sprinkle them occasionally with 
water. Previous to planting, cut them a proper length, and 
place them with their lower ends three or four inches in 
water, in a tub above groundj where they may soak th'-ee or 
four days. At this season the temperature will be likely to 
be such as to spur vegetation at once into healthy and 
vigorous action. The Autumn, or early in the Spring, is 
preferable for rooted plants. In the Autumn of the first 
year, after the frost has ivilled the unripe part of the young 
shoots, they should be pruned down to the mature firm 
wood, and then with a hoe hilled over wilh the surrounding 
soil, which will completely protect them through the Winter. 
If left without prelection the first V/iiiter, many of them 
will perish." 

Mr. Bonsall says, his mode of training, as far as he is 
aware of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he describes 
as follows: "I take chestnut posts, the thickness of large 
fence rails, seven feet in length; these I plant along the 
rows, at distances of ten feet from each other, and at suoh 
a depth as to leave five feet above the surface of the earth ; 
then taking three nails to each post, and driving them to 
within half an inch of their heads, the first two and a half 
feet from the ground, a second midway between that and 
the top, and the third near the top, I attach No 1 1 iron wire 
fone degree soft is best) firmly to one of the nails in the 
end post, pas.s on to the next, and stretching it straight and 



GRAPE. 301 

light, give it one turn round a nail in the same line as the 
one to whicli it was first attached. Having in this manner 
extended it along the three courses, the whole length of the 
row, my trellis is formed. I have had a portion of my 
vineyard fitted up in this way for three years, and experience 
has confirmed the superior fitness of the plan. It is not its 
least recommendation, that it possesses in a degree the 
character of labour-saving 'machinery. A very important 
and extensive labour-making portion of the operations in 
the vineyard during the Summer, is the attention required 
by the growing shoots to keep them proprrly trained up. 
Thay grow nnd extend themselves so rapidly, that where the 
strips of the trellis are lath, or where poles are used to sup- 
port vines, unless A'ery closely watched, they fall down in 
every direction, in a very unsightly and injurious manner. 
Here the wire being small, the tendrils or claspers eagerly 
and firmly attach themselves to it, and thus work for them- 
selves, in probably two-thinls of the instances where the 
attention of the vigneron would otherwise be required. 
There is a free access afforded to the Sun and air, and no 
hold for the wind to strain the frame," Sec. iVL*. Bonsall 
says further, " I shall not enter into a minute description of 
Hiy manner of pruning, but may just say, that after the vines 
have attained a full capacity for production, (say five years 
from the cutting,) my view is to prepare them for beaiing 
an average of fifty clusters to each, leaving several shoots of 
from three to five joints on a vine for this purpose. When 
fresh pruned, they will not be more than four feet hiwh, at 
their greatest age." 

Although the man of taste and capacity for improving on 
the improvements of others, may have gleaned ideas from 
the above extracts, sufficient to enable him to cultivate the 
vine in his own garden, it may be necessary to direct the 
reader's attention to the different methods of cultivating this 
excellent fruit in varied situations. 

A Vme may be trained horizontally under the coping of 
a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and the borders 
in an East, South-East, and Southern aspect of large gar- 
dens, may be furnished with a variety of sorts, which will 

26 



30:i GRAFS. 

ripen in great perfection, without encumbering the borders; 
or the plants may be trained low, like currant bushes, in 
which case, three or more »hoots, eighteen inches or two feet 
in length, may diverge from the stem near the ground, to 
supply yourtg wood annually for bearing. The Summer 
pruning consists in removing shoots which have no fruit, or 
are not required for the succeeding season ; in topping fruit- 
bearing shoots, and also those for succeeding years, when 
inconveniently long and straggling. For as by this mode, 
the shoots de,stined to bear, are all cut in — to three or four 
eyes at th^- Winter pruning, no inconvenience arises from 
their thro^ving out laterals near the extremities, whicli 
stopping Will generally cause them to do. 

In traiiuug Vines as standards, the single stem at the 
bottom is not allowed to exceed six or eight inches in height, 
and from this two or three shoots are trained, or tied to a 
single slake of three or four feet in length. These shoots 
bear each two or three bunches, within a foot or eighteen 
inches of ihe ground, and they are anmially succeeded by 
others whictj i^pring from their base, that is, from the crown 
or top of the dwarf main sten>. This is the mode practised 
in the North of France and in Germany ; in the South of 
France and Jtaly,the base or main stem is often higher, and 
iiirnished ^^lth side shoots, in order to aOord a g/eat supply 
of bearing wood, which is tied to one or more poles of 
greater height. The Summer pruning in this case, is 
nearly the s;in>e as in the last. In the AVinter pruning, the 
wood that ha> borne is cut out, and the new wood shortened, 
in cold situations, to three or four eyes, and in warmer 
places to six or eight eyes. 

Abercronb'A 's methods of pruning established Vines, 
admit of miu » diversity, as the plants are in difterent situa- 
tions. Wiru it reckoning the cutting down of young or 
weak plants .i. ernately to the lowermost Summer shoots, 
which is bu: u ;emporary course, three difterent systems of 
pruning havo liieir advocates. In the first method, one 
perpendicular io-ider is trained from the stem, at the side of 
which, to th It and left, the ramifications spring. When 

the plant is - Mislud. the immediate bearers, or shoots of 



GHAPE. 



do^ 



die growing season, and the mother bearers, or shoots of 
the hist year's growth, are thus managed. Soon after the 
growing season has commenced, such rising shoots as 
either are in fruit and fit to be retained, or are eligibly placed 
for mother bearers next season, are laid in, either horizon- 
tally, or with a shght diagonal rise, at something less than 
a foot distance, measuring from one bearing shoot to the 
next; the rising shoots, intended to form young wood, 
should be taken as near the origin of the branch as a good 
one offers, to allow of cutting away, beyond the adopted 
lateral, a greater quantity of the branch, as it becomes old 
wood ; the new Spring lateral?!, not wanted for one of these 
two objects, are pinched off. The treatment of those 
retained during the rest of the Summer, thus differs : As the 
shoots in bearing extend in growth, they are kept stopped, 
about two eyes beyond the fruit ; the connate shoots, culti- 
vated merely to enlarge the provision of wood, are divested 
of embryo branches, if they show any, and trained at full 
length as they advance during the Summer, until they reach 
the allotted bounds ; were t'ley stopped in the middle of their 
growth, it would cause them to throw out tronblesome 
laterals; in the Winter pruning, there will thus be a great 
choice of mother bearers. That nearest the origin of the 
former mother bearer, or most commodiously placed, is 
retained, and the otlier or others on the same branch are cut 
away ; the rest of the branch is also taken off", so that the 
old wood may terminate with the adopted lateral ; the 
adopted shoot is then shortened to two, three, four, or a * 
greater number of eyes, according to its place on the Vine, 
its own strength, or the strength of the Vine: The lower 
shoots are pruned in — the shortest, in order to promote a 
growth of young wood, at the bottom of the Vine." 

The second method is to head down the natural leader, 
so as to cause it to throw out two, three, or more principal 
shoots ; these are trained as leading branches ; and in the 
Winter pruning are not reduced, unless to shape them to 
the limits of the trellis, or unless the plant appears too 
weak to sustain them at length. Laterals from these are 
cultivated about twelve inches apart, as mother bearers ; 



304 GRAPE. 

those in fruit are stopped in Summer, and after the fall cf 
the leaf, are cut in — to one or two eyes. From the appear- 
ance of the mother bearers, thus shortened, this has been 
called spur-bearing. 

The third method seems to flow from taking the second 
plan as a foundation, in having more than one aspiring 
leader, and from joining the superstructure of the first system 
immediately to this, and in reserving well-placed shoots 
to come in as bearing wood. Thus, supposing a stem 
which ha& been headed, to send up four vigorous competing 
leaders, two are suffered to bear fruit, and two are divested 
of such buds as break into clusters, and trained to the 
length of ten, twelve, or fifteen feet, or more, for mother 
bearers next season. In the Winter pruning, the leaders 
which have borne a crop, are cut down to within two eyes of 
the stool, or less, according to the strength of the plant, 
while the reserved shoots lose no more of their tops than Is 
necessary to adjust them to the trellis." 

Nicol observes,, that "most of the Summer pruning of 
Vines may be performed with the fingers, without a knife, 
the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off, and those 
to be shortened, being little, are readily pinched asunder." 
After selecting the shoots to be trained for the production of 
a crop next season, and others necessary for filling the trellis 
from the bottom, which shoots should be generally laid m 
at the distance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other, 
rub off all the others that have no clusters, and shorten those 
that have, at one joint above the uppermost cluster. For 
this purpose, go over the plants every three or four days 
till all the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters, at the 
same time rubbing off any water shoots that may rise from 
the wood. 

Train in the shoots to be retained, as thry advance.. If 
there be an under trellis, on which to train the Summer 
shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in length, or when 
the Grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that the fruit may 
enjoy the full aii- and light, as it advances towards maturity, 
Such of these shoots as issue from the bottom, and are to be 
shortened in the Winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for 



GRAPE. 305 

(he production of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped 
when they have grown to the length of four or five feet. 
Others that are intended to be cut down to about two yards, 
and which issue at different heights, may be stopped when 
they have run three yards, or ten feet, less or more, ac- 
cording to their strength. And those intended to be cut at 
or near to the top of the trellis, should be trained a yard or 
two down the back, or a trellis may be placed so as to form 
an arbour ; or they may be placed to run right or left a few 
feet on the uppermost wire. 

The stubs or shoots on which the clusters are placed, will 
probably push again after being stopped, if the plants be 
vigorous. If so, stop them again and again ; but after the 
fruit are half grown, they will seldom spring. Observe to 
divest the shoots, in training, of all laterals as they appear, 
except the uppermost on each, in order to provide against 
accidents, as hinted at before, in training the newly planted 
Vines. When these shoots are stopped, as directed above, 
they will push again. Allow the lateral that pushes, to run 
a few joints, and then shorten it back to one, and so on as it 
pushes, until it stops entirely. When the proper shoots 
get ripened nearly to the top, the whole may be cut back to 
the originally shortened part, or to one joint above it, if 
there be reason to fear that the uppermost bud of the proper 
shoot will start. 

Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves as they 
appear, as such will sometimes occur in continued hazy 
weather, and be particularly cautious not to injure the leaf 
that accompanies the bunch, for if that is lost, the fruit will 
be of little value. 

" Every one of penetration and discernment," Nicol ob- 
serves, " will admit the utility of thinning the berries on 
bunches of grapes, in order that they may have room to 
swell fully ; and further that of supporting the shoulders of 
such clusters of the large growing kinds as hang loosely, 
and require to be suspended to the trellis or branches, in 
order to prevent the bad effects of damp or mouldiness in 
very moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, 
Royal Muscadine, Raisin, St. Peter's, Syrian, Tokay, and 

*26 



306 GRAPB. 

others, should have their shoulders suspended to the trelli5> 
or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the 
berries are about the size of garden peas. At the same time^ 
the clusters should be regularly thinned out with narrow 
pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third 
part of the berries. The other close-growing kinds, as the 
Frontignacs, Muscats, &c., should likewise be moderately 
thinned, observing to thin out the small seedless berries only 
of the Muscadine, Sweet Water, and flame-coloured Tokay. 
In this manner, handsome bunches and full-swelled berries 
may be obtained ; but more so, if the clusters or over-bur- 
dened plants be also moderately thinned away. Indeed, 
cutting off the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants over- 
loaded, and pushing weak wood, are the only means by 
which to cause them to produce shoots fit to bear 
fruit next year; and this should be duly attended to, 
so long as the future welfare of the plants is a matter 
of importance. 

The preceding observations may be considered as falling 
short of what may be expected on the cultivation of so 
important a fruitas the Grape ; but it is introduced into this 
book only as a garden fruit. The modes of training in 
vineyards and vineries,.are alike suited to the garden. Low 
training may be practised in borders or hedge rows, in large 
gardens ; and high training in sheltered situations, on high 
trellises or arbours. By proper management, the Vine may 
be elevated to the middle story of a house by a single stem> 
and afterwards trained to a great height, according to the 
taste of the proprietor. As the Vine is often trained near 
buildings, an awning may be conveniently formed over the 
tops so as to admit of fumigating the Vine with smoke from 
tobacco, &c., as may be necessary in the Summer season ; 
or a sort of movable tent may be made of light boards, and 
cheap glazed linen, or an old sail,&.c., capable of covering;; 
the Vine while a smoke is created underneath ; this will 
effectually destroy such insects as may annoy the Vine, and 
may prevent mildew and other diseases. 



307 
, MULBERRY. 

MvRiER. Morus. 

There are several species of the Morus or Mulberry.. 
The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves to feed 
silkworms, though in some parts of Spain, and in Persia, 
they are said to prefer the Black Mulberry. In China, it 
appears that both sorts are grown for the same purpose. 
The most esteemed variety of the white is one grown in 
Italy, and especially in Lombardy, with vigorous shoots, 
and much larger leaves than the other. The Morus multi- 
caulis IS cultivated in many parts ofFrance, and is by some 
preferred to all other varieties. It is said that a less quan- 
tity of foliage from this variety will satisfy the silkworms. 
The late Andrew Parmentier, Esq., was the means of 
introducing several choice varieties from that country ; and 
our nurserymen generally, have, of late years, turned their 
attention to tlie cultivation of such as are best adapted for 
silkworms, which are sold at moderate prices. 

In France, the white Mulberry is grown as pollard Elms 
are in England. In Lombardy, it is grown in low marshy 
ground. In China, it is also grown in moist loamy soil, 
and both there and in the East Indies, as low bushes, and 
the plantations rooted up and renewed every three or four 
years. In many parts, when the leaves are wanted for the 
worms, they are stripped off the young shoots, which are 
left naked on the tree ; in other places, the shoots are cut 
off, which is not so injurious to the tree, while the points of 
the shoots, as well as the leaves, are eaten by the worms. 

The plants are sometimes raised from seed, and one ounce 
of seed will produce 5000 trees, if sown in rich loamy soil, 
the latter end of April, or early in May ; but the young 
plants will require protection the first Winter ; they are 
moi'e commonly propagated by layers and cuttings, put 
down in the Spring. The Italian variety is frequently 
grafted on seedling stocks of the common sort, in order to 
preserve it from degenerating. In the East Indies, the plant!? 



308 MULBERRY. 

are raised from cuttings, three or four of whiclj are placed 
together, where they are finally to remain. 

But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit ; and in 
England the black and red kinds are in great esteem, and 
much cultivated. The fruit of the white Mulberry is white, 
and less acid than that of the black species. The black is 
naturally a strong(.'r tree than the other ; the fruit is of a 
dark blackish red, and of an agreeable aromatic and acid 
flavour. The red Mulberry has black shoots, rougher 
leaves than the black Mulberry, and a dark reddish fruit, 
longer than the common sort, and of a very pleasant taste. 
The fruit of ihe yellow Mulberry is very sweet and whole- 
some, but not much eaten, excepting by birds ; the timber, 
however, is valuable, from its abounding in a slightly gluti- 
nous milk of a sulphureous colour, and is known in Europe 
under the name of fustic wood, for dying a yellow colour. 

In Russia, the fruit of the Moras tartarica is eaten fresh, 
conserved, or dried; a wine and a spirit are also made 
from them, but li;e berries are said to be of an insipid taste. 

All species of the Moras are remakable for putting out 
their leaves late, so that when they appear, gardeners may 
safely set out their greenhouse plants, taking it for granted 
that all danger froui frost is over ; from this circumstance, 
plantations of Mulberry trees may be made in this country 
in the Spring of the year with greater safety. 

The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little shoots of 

the same year, v. hich arise on last year's wood and on 

spurs from the two year old wood ; in both stages, mostly 

at the ends of the shoots and the branches. In pruning, 

thin out irregular crossing branches, but never shorten the 

young wood, on which the fruit is produced. If any of the 

dwarfish kinds are cultivated as espaliers for their fruits, cut 

so as to bring in a partial succession of new wood every 

year, and a complete succession once in two years, taking 

the old barren wood out, as may be necessary. As the 

blossom buds cannot be readily distinguished from others in 

the Winter, the best period for pruning is when the blossoms 

first become visible in the Spring. 

There is another genus of plants, known as the Paper 



KECTARINE. n09 

Mulberry, which is very ornamental, called Broussonetia 
papyrifera ; though a lovv tree^ it has vigorous shoots, 
furnished with two large leaves ; the fruit, which is small, is 
surrounded with long purple hairs, changing to a black 
purple colour when ripe, and full of juice. " In China and 
Japan, it is cultivated for the sake of the young shoots, 
from the bark of which the inhabitants of the Eastern 
countries make paper. The bark being separated from iho 
wood, is steeped in water, ih? former making the whitest 
and best paper. The bark is next slowly boiled,, then 
washed, and afterwards put upon a wooden table, and beat 
into a pulp. This pulp being put in water, separates like 
grains of meal. An infusion of rice, and the root of man- 
hiotare next added to it. From the liquor so prepnied, the 
sheets of paper are ])oured out one by one, and when, 
pressed, the operation in finished." 

"The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to be used 
in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or paper. The 
finest and whitest cloth worn by the principal people al 
Otaheite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark 
of this tree. The cloth of the Bread Fruit tree is inferior 
in whiteness and softness, and worn chiefly by the common 
people." 



NECTARINE. 

Pechera Fruit lisse, oc Bro,gnons. Amygdalus nectarina. 

The varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in every 
respect, except that the skin is perfectly smooth, of a waxen 
appearance, and the flesh generally more firm ; although 
of the same genus as the Peach, which is so plentiful in this 
country, the fruit of tha Nectarine is quite a rarity, and 
seldom appears iu our markets. There are seventy-two 
varieties cultivated in the Horticultural Garden of London ; 
and Nicol says, that " no varieties of the Nectarine are at 
present known to have originated in North America, excep?, 
•'the Boston," 



310 NECTARINE. 

It is generally allowed that their failure is occasioned by 
the attacks of insects. The most efficacious method that 1 
have heard of, for securing any thing like a crop of 
Nectarines, is to fumigate the trees in the evening, when 
the air is calm and serene, at the season when this fruit is 
ready to set, sec pages 244 to 250. Tobacco is the most 
effisctual antidote for these insects ; but a friend of mine collec- 
ted a quantity of salt hay that had been used for his spinach 
the preceding Winter; with this he created a smoke, first on 
one side of his plantation, and afterwards on the other, by 
which means he obtained a good supply of fruit. Our 
enterprising horliculturist, Mr. W. Shaw, has succeeded in 
gathering fine fruit, by pursuing the English plan, namely, 
in training his trees against a close fence ; and it has been 
discovered by others, that the Nectarine, like the Grape 
Vine, will yield best in sheltered situations. That eminent 
horticulturist. Mr. David Thomas, observes, that " a vast 
quantityof fruit is annually destroyed by by the Curculio which 
causes the Flum, Apricot and Nectarine, prematurely to 
drop from the tree. To prevent this loss, let the tree after 
the blossoms fall, be frequently shaken by a cord connected 
with a sv.'inging door, or with a working pump-handle, &c. ; 
or let the bug.s be jarred from the tree and killed. Or keep 
geese enough in the fruit garden to devour all the dama- 
ged fuit as it falls. We know that this last method is 
infallible.^' 

As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees, for 
fear of disturbing the fruit, such are here reminded, that if 
the blossoms sot more fruit than can be supported, it will not 
come to full perfeelion, and the trees may be injured in their 
future bearing ; for these reasons, when fruit sets too thick' 
it should be thinned in an early stage of its growth. 

The Nectarine, as also the Peach treci are subject to injury 
by an insect different to the Curculio species, which feeds on 
sap beneath the bark, principally near the surface of the 
earth ; but if not checked, will commit ravages on the trunk 
and root, so as eventually to destroy the tree. The egg is 
supposed to be first deposited in the upper part of the tree ; 
and in the months of June and July, it becomes a very small 



NECTARINE. 311 

maggot, which drops to the ground, and approaches the 
tree near the surface. If the ground be kept clear around 
the roots, as it ought always to be, the worm can readily be 
detected by a small speckof gum, which appears on the tree 
after it has made its entrance, which gumminess will increase 
in quantity as it progresses ; but if the trees are thoroughly 
examined about once a week or ten days, and the gum 
wherever found, removed by means of a small knife or 
pointed wire, the worm may be at once defeated from 
making any havock on the trees. An orchard of several 
acres may be kept free from worms by going over it a few 
times. — After a shower of rain is a good time, as the gum 
can then be more easily xliscovered, and when it is removed, 
the wound will soon heal up, and the danger is over, pro- 
vided the ground be kept cultivated around the trees ; and 
the collar or that part from which emanate the main roots 
be near the surface. 



This is an important precaution, and should be attended 
to at the time of transplantinor all descriptions of trees and 
smaller plants ; because deep planting prevents the essential 
circulation of the juices of plants in their regular and natura^ 
courses, and consequently causes disease and premature 
death ; and it must be admitted, that from the circumstance 
of this fruit being generally raised on standard trees, and in 
a ,light soil our cultivators are apt to plant too deep ; 
and thus act contrary to sound judgement and philosophy, 
with a view to save the trouble and expense of staking or 
otherwise supporting their newly planted trees, which pre- 
caution is absolutely necessary to their preservation, even in 
less tempestuous climates, and in stiff as well as in light soil. 

Saltpetre dissolved in the proportion of one pound to five 
gallons of water, and applied around the stems and roots of 
trees, as recommended for plants in general, page 12 of the 
general remarks, is, in my opinion, one of the best remedies 
for the destruction of various kinds of insects ; it is moreover 
allowed by modern and learned physiologists to contain the 
most essential nutriment to all descriptions of trees or smaller 



312 NECTARINE. 

plants, when judiciously used. Other remedies are recorii* 
mended to be applied for the destruction of these insects 
arftund fruit trees, besides those previously mentioned ; as 
dissolved potash, coal tar, sulphur and lime-mortar mixed, 
vinegar, soap suds, &c. Culture, upon correct principles, 
will, however, in general operate not only as a radical cure, 
but us a preventive to all defects in trees and plants ; which 
to be iiealihy and productive, should be so managed that 
the sap and nutrimental juices can circulate through every 
pore which Nature has designed for their perpetuity. (See 
article on the choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery, page 259, 
also article Peach.) 



The Nectarine is generally budded on stocks of the same 
species, or on Peach or Plum, two or three years old. 
Knight recommends growing Ahnond stocks for the finer 
kinds of Nectarines and Apricots, as likely to prevent the 
mildew, and as being allied to the Peach. Dubreuil recom- 
mends a PIuiu stock for clayey soils, and the Almond for 
such as are light, chalky, or sandy. The same opinion is 
held by- the Montreal gardeners. The Flemish nurserymen 
graft both the Peach and Nectarine on the Myrabella Plum, 
a very small cherry-shaped fruit. 

The budding may be performed in July or August, in the 
side of the stock, which vvilj, if properly managed, shoot the 
following Spring, and attain the length of three or four feet 
the first year. After the budded trees have ripened their 
first year's shoots, they may eitiier be planted where they 
are to remain, or retained in the nursery for two, three, or 
four years, till in a bearing state. Whether the plants be 
removed into the orchard at a year old, or remain in the 
nursery, the first shoots from the bud must be headed down 
in a judicious manner, in order to promote the most desirable 
form. In annual pruning, thi*i out superfluous branches and 
dry wood, and shorten the bearing shoots. 

Nectarines may be trained to a close fence, or wall, in 
private gardens ; in which case, such plants should be cho- 
sen as are budded low. (See article Apricot.) 



313 



SELECT mmmm list of ictarims. 



FREESTONE NECTAKINES. 

/^ Aromatic. A middle sized, ratlier globular fruit, deep red or brown 
• next the sun; flesh pale straw, but red at the stone; juice of a rich 

vinous flavour ; ripe early in August. 
^ Early Violet, Violette Hative, Pelite Violette Hative, Lord Selsey's 
^ Elruge, Large Scarlet. Fruit variable in size, generally medium ; pale 
yellowish green, but darki.-h purple red next the sun ; flesh melting, 
juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in August. 
^ Fairchild's Early. Fruit very early, but small; of globular shape, 
^ yellow in the shade, deep scarlet next the svin; flesh yellow, not juicy, 
but \vell flavoured ; ripe in July and August. 

Lewis's Seedling. A fine native variety, raised by -!S':r. Lewis of 
Boston; fruit of medium size; heart-shaped; colour bright yellow, 
mottled with red; flesh yellow, firm, p!easai?t and peculiar in flavour ; 
ripe in September. 
•-" JMiller's Elruge; One of the very best and most high flavoured 
*• nectarines ; fruit medium size, of a dark red and pale yellow colour ; 
pulp melting, very juicy, rich and high flavoured ; ripens early iu 
August. 
A Pi i'maston's Orange. A good sized globular, or heart-shaped fruit, 
, of a rich yellow colour, but dark crimson or purple next the sun ; flesli 
golden yellow, but red next the stone, from which it separates ; it is 
melting, juicy, saccharine and high flavoured ; ripe in August. 

Scarle r. A middle sized fruit; of a beautiful scarlet colour next 
the sun, and pale red on the shaded side ; the flesh separates from the 
stone, and is at maturity in August. 

Vermash, True Vermash. This fruit is rather of small size, and 
round form, tapering towards the eye ; the skin is of a very deep red 
colour next the sun ; and of a greenish hue on the other side ; l)ulp 
rich, melting and juicy ; at maturity in August. 

White, or Flanders Nectarine, New White, Emerson's New JVIdte. 
NcaWs White. A middle sized, roundish, very pale fruit, slightly tinged 
witli red next the sun ; flesh tender and juicy, with a fine vinous fla- 
vour. The Pomological Magazine describes this aa a chngstone ; 
Lindley as a freestone. 

CLINGSTONES, OR PAVIEP, 

Brugnon Vioi.ET Mus^uE, Brugnon Musque. Fruit large ; of a 
deep red and yellow colour; skin very smooth ; flesh yellow, but red 
at the stone ; saccharine, vinous, musky ; at maturity in August and 
September. 

27 



314 ORANGE. 

Early Newington, Early Black Neioington, Lucombes Seedling. Fruit 
below the middle size, ovate, skin pale green, and on the sunny side of 
a deep red colour; pulp super-excellent; considered by some as the best 
of all nectarines; ripe in August and September. 

Golden. Fruit medium size, of the finest orange colour, delicately 
and beautifully mottled with red next the sun, which gives to it a clear 
waxen appearance ; flesh firm, yellow, pale red at the stone, and has a 
poignant, rich flavour ; ripens in August and September. 

Italian, Brugnon or Italian. A large globular or pale yeflow fruit, 
marbled with dark red next the sun ; flesh firm, yellow, red at the stone, 
juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in August. 

Red Roman, Roman Red. A very excellent nect-arine', of large size; 
the skin dark red next the sun, and of ayellowish hue on the other side ; 
flesh yellowish, but red next the stone ; it abounds with rich juice when 
fuUy ripe, in August and September. 

Scarlet Newikgton, Late Newington, Old Netcington. This variety 
is much esteemed ; the fruit large, of a beautiful red colour next the sun, 
and of a fine yellow on the other side ; its quality is excellent, being 
rich and juicy ; early in September. 

Tawny Newington. Fruit large, somewhat ovate ; tawny-coloured, 
marbled with dull red or orange next the sun ; flesh pale yellow, but 
red at the stone ; very juicy, sugary, and of the mo»t delicious flavour » 
ripens in August and September. 



ORANGE, LEMON, &c. 

OranGer, Citkonier, &.C. Citrus. 

Notwithstanding this fruit, and also the Lemon, Lime, 
&c., are attainable at all seasons of the year, by supplies 
from our Southern States, the West Indies, and the South 
of Europe, yet the plants are entitled to our notice on 
account of their being so easily cultivated, and from their 
affording an ornament by exhibiting their fruit the whole of 
the year. 

The Orange, as well as others of the same genus, are 
generally cultivated as green-house plants, but may be 
kept in a light room throughout our severe Winters, provided 
the temperature is not suffered to be below the freezing 
point, 32^. Its recommendations are, handsome evergreen, 
shining, tree-like forms ; most odoriferous flowers, and 



ORANGE. 315 

brilliant, fragrant, delicious fruits, which succeed each 
other perpetually, and are not unfrequently seen on the 
tree at the same time, in two or three stages of growth. A 
work has recently been published at Paris, edited by Messrs. 
Risso and Poiteau, which contains engravings and descrip- 
tions of one hundred and sixty-nine varieties. They are 
arranged as sweet Oranges, of which they describe 42 sorts ; 
bitter and sour Oranges, 32 sorts ; Bergamots, 5 sorts ; 
Limes, 8 sorts ; Shaddocks, 6 sorts ; Lumes, 12 sorts ; 
Lemons, 46 sorts J Citrons, 17 sorts. 

All the species of Citrus endure the open air at Nice, 
Genoa, and Naples ; but at Florence and Milan, and often 
at Rome, they require protection during the Winter, and are 
generally planted in conservatories and sheds. In England, 
these trees have been cultivated since 1629; they are gene- 
rally planted in conservatories. Loudon says that in the 
south of Devonshire, and particularly at Saltcombe, may be 
seen, in a few gardens, Orange trees that have withstood the 
Winter in the open air upwards of a hundred years. The 
fruit is as large and fine as any from Portugal. Trees raised 
from seed, and inoculated on the spot, are found to bear the 
cold better than trees imported. 

At Nuneham, near Oxford, are some fine old trees, planted 
under a moveable case, sheltered by a north wall. In 
Summer, the case is removed, and the ground turfed over, 
so that the whole resembles a native Orange grove. The 
author of this work, being a native of Abingdon, which is 
within three miles of the Earl of Harcourt's estate, has had 
frequent opportunities of tasting the fruit, which he believes 
to be equal to that of warmer climates. At VVoodhall, near 
Hamilton, trees of all the species of Citrus are trained 
against the back walls of forcing-houses, and produce large 
crops of fruit. 

Any of the varieties of the Orange, L.emon, Lime Shad- 
dock, Citron, &.c., may be grafted or budded on stocks of 
the common Orange, or Lemon ; but the seeds of Shaddocks 
and]Citrons produce the strongest stocks; and on these may 
be engrafted such kinds as may be needed for a conservatory. 
'i|'he most suitable time for budding is July and August ; 



3^16 



FEACTH. 



but this operation may be performed at any time when the 
sap is in motion. The directions for the management of 
greenhouse plants, apply also to this family of plants, to 
which I refer my readers. A friend of mine, who is a native 
of Rouen, in Normandy, informs me, that a Mr. Valee, of 
that city, succeeds in clearing about twelve thousand 
francs per annum from the flowers of Orange trees, which 
are distilled for essences, &c. 



PEACH. 

Pecuer. Amygdalus Persica. 

It is generally considered that the Peach is of Persian 
origin. In Medea, it is deemed unwholesome ; but when 
planted in Egypt, becomes pulpy, delicious, and salubrious. 
It has been cultivated, time immemorial, in most parts of 
Asia ; when it was introduced into Greece, is uncertain. 
The best Peaches in Europe are supposed to be grown in 
Italy, on standards. 

The list of Peaches in the London Catalogue, contains 
two hundred and twenty. four names, fifty of which are 
denominated American Peaches. Several attempts have 
been made to cLiss the varieties of Peaches and Nectafines 
by the leaf and flower, as well as the fruit. Mr. Robertson, 
a nurseryman at Kilkenny, has founded his arrangement 
on the glands of the leaves ; and Mr. George Lindley, of 
London, has, in a peculiarly distinct manner, arranged no 
fewer than one hundred and fifty-five sorts of Peaches and 
Nectarines in well-defined divisions and sections. There 
are various instances on record, (Hort.Tians. vol. 1, p. 103,) 
of both fruits growing on the same tree, even on the same 
branch ; and one case has occurr<^d of a single fruit 
partaking of the nature of both. The French consider ihem 
as one fruit, arranging them in four divisions; the Peches, 
or free-stone Peaches; the Peches lisses, or free-stone 
Nectarines, or free-stone Peaches ; the Pavies, or cling- 



PEACH. 3fT 

Stone Peaches ; and the Brognons^ or Nectarines, or cling- 
stone smooth Peaches. 

Although this fruit will thrive in any sweet, pulverized 
soil that is properly prepared, a rich sandy loam is the most 
suitable. Next to the selection and preparation of a suitable 
soil, a choice of good healthy trees is of the utmost impor- 
tance. The seeds for stocks should be selected from the 
vigorous-growing young, or middle-aged healthy trees ; and 
the buds should be taken from some of the choicest fruit- 
bearing trees that can be found. Let the stocks be fairly 
tested before they are budded, and if any infection exist in 
the stocks, or in the vicinity of where the choice of buds 
may fall, reject them, if you wish to rear a healthy progeny ; 
as more depends on these particular points than many are 
aware of. 

In this country, the Peach is generally budded on stocks 
of its own kind ; but in England it is often budded on 
damask Plum stocks, and some of the more delicate sorts 
on Apricot stocks, or old Apricot trees cut down: or on 
seedling Peaches, Almonds or Nectarines. (See article 
Nectarine. (Cobbetf says, " there are thousands of Peach 
trees in England and France that are fifty years old, and 
that are still in vigorous fruitfulness." He attributes the 
swift decay of the Peach tree here to their being grafted on 
stocks of their kind." 

Mr. Michael Floy, of the Harlaem Nursery, in a note, 
page 364 of the American edition of Lindley's Guide to the 
Orchard and Fruit Garden, edited by him, makes the fol- 
lowing observations on this subject, which he says are the 
results of thirty years' experience as a nurseryman in the 
vicinity of New- York : — 

" In this country Peaches are generally budded on Peach 
stocks. Their growth is very rapid, and they will form a 
tree large enough to transplant from the nursery, the first 
and second year after budding; but notwithstanding the 
rapid growth of our Peaches, and their coming to maturity 
so early, with but little care and trouble, it must at the same 
time be admitted that they too often come to decay with 
almost the same celerity. A question here will naturally 

27* 



318 PEACKr 

arise on-.this subject, what can be done to remedy this 1 t 
answer, first, I think the Peach stock is defective ; it is not 
sufficiently strong and lasting to make a permanent tree ; 
the roots are soft and delicate, very liable to rot in cold 
heavy ground,- particularly if suffered to stand in a sod, or 
where the ground is not kept clean, dry, and manured every 
season. Secondly, Supposing that the trees are planted in 
a warm, free soil, (which is the proper soil for the Peach,) 
they are liable to the attacks of the worm, which eats into 
their roots, and barks the trees all round, until they com- 
pletely destroy them. No better method of destroying these 
worms has been discovered, than simply digging round the 
trees, and examining the infested plants, and where gum is 
seen oozing out, there the worm may generally be found and 
destroyed." 

" I think an effectual remedy against this intruder may be 
found, by budding Peaches and Nectarines on the common 
bitter Almond Stock. The worm does not like this stock. 
Peaches will take on it, and grow nearly as free as on the 
common Peach stock. Thirdly, The Peach stock causes 
the Peaches and Nectarines to grow too rapidly, making 
very strong shoots, these producing secondary or lateral 
shoots; and the fruit of the following Summer is produced 
on the top of these lateral shoots, instead of being produced 
on the principal or first shoots; this causes naked wood at 
the bottom, and a, straggling unsightly tree, whose branches 
being heavy at the top with the fruit, are broken down by 
hifh winds. Fourthly, In addition to all this, the trees are 
of late years subject to what has been deemed a disease 
called the yellows, from the circumstance of the trees 
liaving a yellow and sickly appearance. Much curious 
philosophy has been spent on this subject without arriving 
at any satisfactory conclusion." 

Mr. Floy, after discovering that the Almond stock is 
susceptible of injury from our Northern Winters in extreme 
cold weather, further recommends the Plum Stock in cold 
latitudes, and the Almond for our Southern States — hear 
him : — 

"-The Plum stock is undoubtedly the best for Peaches 



PEACH. 319* 

and Nectarines in the Norihem and Eastern States, but 
especially for open dwarfs or espaliers, for which I give the 
following reasons:— Firsts The Plum stock prevents the 
too rapid growth of the shoots, and causes the principals to 
bear the fruit the following season, instead of producing 
lateral shoots the same season, and causing the tree to be 
more dwarf; the branches strong and fruitful to the bottom 
of the shoot, thereby having more fruit in a smaller 
compass. Secondly, It makes harder and less pithy wood, 
and enables it the belter to withstand the cold ; and this 
may be easily proved by cutting the branches of each — the 
shoot on the Plum stock will be twice as hard and firm as 
the one on the Peach stock ; but Thirdly, and the most 
important reason is, that the Plum stock ceases to send up 
its sap early in Autumn, causing the Peach to perfect its 
wood before the cold weather sets in." 



As the failure of this fruit of late years has elicited consir 
derable discussion and observation, which increases in 
interest annually, I hereby offer an exposition of my views 
on the subject, by a comparison between vegetable and 
animal matter, which I humbly conceive bear a striking 
assimilation to each other. If the reader should deem my 
arguments as visionary or speculative, I would remind him 
that the grave importance of the subject fully justifies this 
or any other attempt at elucidation. 

Having in page 311 shown the error of deep planting all 
descriptions of trees and plants, I would here observe, that 
a tree brought into a state of disease, by which the circulation 
of its nutrimental juices is impeded, and its bark injured, 
is very similarly situated to a timber post inserted in the 
soil ; which every one knows, will rot between earth and air, 
however sound its other parts may hie. 

In venturing a comparison between vegetable and animal 
matter, I would first refer the reader to page 281, where I 
have'shown that a Chestnut tree has been known to live 



^0 PEACsr. 

over a thousand years ; and that its timber, cut in proper 
season, is supposed to be in durability, commensurate with 
the age of the growing tree. It is also recorded in history 
that animal subjects preserved on the Egyptian principle, 
have been known to keep as long as the most durable 
timber; wliile daily experience shows, that corrupt animal 
and vegetable substances, not only become a prey to the 
most noxious insects and reptiles, but will generate them in 
incalculable numbers. 

It is also evident, that a tree deprived of its functions or 
means of growing luxuriantly, is in a similar situation to a 
diseased animal. If disease be not checked before the 
juices of the tree become putrid, it will not only die, but 
will contaminate the earth in which it is planted, to the 
destruction of its neifi^hbourino; inmates of the "'arden or 
field. All experienced nurserymen admit this to be the case 
with diseased Peach trees, and some have actually aban- 
doned their Peach orchards, and chosen fresh ground for 
new plantations. 

It is precisely the same with smaller vegetable plants^ 
A diseased Cabbage, for instance, by its excremental and 
corrupt juices being spent in the ground, will render the 
cultivation of the same or allied species a casualty; and daily 
observation teacheth, that young and thrifty plants often 
fall a prey to worms and reptiles which were generated by 
a previous crop. 

It is moreover evident, that all those enemies of the 
vegetable family feed on the same descriptions of vegetable 
matter which first generated them ; hence the Peach insects 
feed on its fi'uit in embryo, as well as in a state at, and even 
beyond perfection ; the Cabbage worms prey on plants of 
the same genera or species ; and I have no doubt but the 
cotton worms prefer the same description of vegetable matter 
which, gave them birth, and that when these insects and 
reptiles cannot obtain the parts which are the most palatable 
to them, or congenial to their nature, they will feed upon 
diseased trees, plants, or any other matter which contain 
similar juices or nutriment. I again repeat, that the best 
security against their depredations is health and soundness. 



PEACH. 331 

A good sound healthy tree, planted and cultivated upon 
correct principles, may be justly considered as invulnerable 
to the attacks of insects and reptiles, as any species of 
healthy animal creature in existence. 

As I have been more familiar witli the cultivation of 
vegetables than fruits, I would state further* my views 
relative to the Cabbage tribe. On New- York Island in the 
vicinity of the City, il is customary with gardeners to cut 
their Cabbages gradually as they are required for market, 
and often to leave their roots standing ; these by some are 
ploughed under; where they not only feed, but generate 
their peculiar species of insects. Some gardeners take 
their roots and leaves to the cattle yard or dung heap, and 
return them back to the garden the ensuing season in the 
shape of manure. As a consequence of such practice, good 
Cabbages are very seldom obtained, even after a routine of 
other crops, for two or three years. 

With a view to illustrate the evil of deep planting, I 
would observe further, thai when Cabbage plants are 
transplanted in proper seasons and on good fresh soil, they 
generally prove uniformly good; whereas if it should 
happen, as it sometimes does, for want of suitable weather, 
that the plants cannot be transplanted until they get crooked 
and overgrown, so as to require deep planting to support 
them in the soil, such plants, like diseased Peach trees, 
decay first in the bark, between earth and air, and then from 
being deprived of a natural circulation of the vegetable 
juices, die, and discharge their putrid matter in the earth, 
to the destruction of such other plants as may be inserted 
in their stead. I have frequently known a land of Cabbage 
plants filled up half a dozen times, and the crop at last 
scarcely worth gathering, whereas could the plants have 
been set out while dwarfish, and inserted their proper depth 
in the giound, the cultivator would have been rewarded a 
hundred fold. 

I dislike tautology, but cannot avoid repeataig my humble 
opinion, that deep planting and injudicious culture are the 
causes of most diseases and failures of fruit trees ; and in 
this way I account for Peaches being less plentiful than 



32S PBACH. 

they were, when left almost to Nature, which was the case 1 
am informed in the beginning of the present century. That 
this malpractice in horticulture is very general, the most 
superficial observer may discover, by comparing the thrifty 
growth of those trees scattered by Nature in our highways 
and byways with many of those aided by the art of man. If 
any of my readers sliould require proof of my assertions, I 
can show them from the window of the room where this 
article was composed, scores of living, or rather dying, 
evidences of the evil of deep planting. 

All the varieties of the Peach produce their fruit upon the 
young wood of a year old, the blossom buds rising immedi- 
ately from the eyeg of the shoots. The same shoots seldom 
bear after tlie first year, except on some casual small spurs 
on the two year's wood, which is not to be counted upon. 
Hence the trees are to be pruned as bearing entirely on the 
shoots of the preceding year, and a full supply of regular 
grown shoots must be retained for successional bearers. 
Cut out the redundant shoots, and all decayed and dead 
wood, and redupe some of the former bearers, cutting the 
most naked quite away. 

A Peach Orchard may be planted at any time after the 
bud is established, until the trees are three or four years 
old, which may be placed from fifteen to twenty feet from 
each other, or from any other spreading trees. The dwarf 
kinds may be. introduced into the kitchen garden, and 
trained against fences, as directed for the Apricot, or ae 
espaliers, or dwarf standards, 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 

FREESTONE PEACHES. 

A^TO!^. An excellent variety, originating in the city of New-York ; 
the fruit is above medium size ; skin pale yellow, with red cheek ; flesh 
melting and pleasant flavoured ; juice sweet and plentiful ; ripe the 
latter end of August and early in September. 

Belle Chevereuse, Chevcreiisc Hative, Early Chevereuse. Fruit 
medium size, oblong form, and of a red and yellow colour; ripens in 
August; the pulp is rich, juicy, and sugary; tree a good bearer, and 
^he fruit highly esteeniedr 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 32^ 

Belle de Vitrt, Admirable Tardive, Bellis. A large fruit, of fine 
jred colour next the sun, on the opposite side a yellowish white ; flesh 
white, stained with red at the stone; firm, juicfy^, sweet, vinous and ex- 
cellent; ripe early in September. 

Bellegarde, Galande, Violette Hative, Noire de Montreuil. The 

-tree is vigorous and productive ; fruit above medium size, globular ; 

skin greenish yellow, and on the sunny side rich deep red, with dark 

purple streaks ; flesh pale yellow, very melting, saccharine and juicy ; 

a first-rate fruit, early in September. 

Brevoort's Seedling Melter. A superior peach, raised by Henry 
Brevoort, Esq. of New-York; skin of a dingy white colour, with red 
cheek ; flesh white, firm, rich, and sugary ; ripe by the middle of 
August. 

Double Montagne, Sion, Early Double Mountain. A beautiful and 
excellent peach of middle size; skin greenish while, but soft red, mar- 
bled with a deeper red next the sun ; flesh white and melting ; juice 
plentiful and highly flavoured ; ripe in August. 

Green Nutmkg, Eary Anne, Avant Blun'^hc. This variety is said to 
have originated in Berkshire, England. The fruit is small ; its colour 
yellowish green; its pulp melting, juicy, of very pleasant flavour, and 
ripens early in Augixst Murray's Early Anne is a variety raised from 
the seed of this. 

Early Orange, Yellow Rare Pdpe, Yellow Malacotan, Rare Ripe 
Early Yellotc. Fruit under a medium size, inclining to the oval shape, 
apex full, with a small tip ; skin greenish yellow ; flesh a fine yellow, 
juice rich and sweet, but not plentiful; ripe in August. There are 
several varieties under the same name, some of which are inferior to 
the true Orange Peach. 

Early Royal George. A superior variety, of medium size, and 
rather globular form ; skin yellow, with red cheek ; flesh melting and 
dehcious ; in August. There are several varieties cultivated under 
this name, differently described. 

EMPEfiOR OF Russia, Serrated Leaf, New Cut-Leaved Unique. The 
- fruit of this species is deeply cleft, one half of it projecting considerably 
beyond the other; the skin is downy, of a brownish yellow and red 
colour ; flesh melting ; juice sweet and delicious ; towards the end of 
August. This sort was found by Mr. Floy, in New Jersey, 1809, and 
all the stones of this fruit are said to produce ple.nts with jagged leaves. 

Ford's Seedling. A middle sized peach of a beawtiful pale rose 
colour, marbled with bright red; flesh yellowish green quite to the 
stone from which it separates ; juice plentiful, and of a rich poignant 
flavour ; in August and September. 

George the Fourth. An excellent peach, of medium size and 
globular shape; of pale yellow colour in the shade, and dark red next 
the sun ; flesh yellow, but red at the stone from which it separates ; a 
fruit of very superior flavour when at maturity, which is early in Sep- 
tember ; it originated in the garden of Mr. Gill, Broad-street, New-York 



S23i DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEACHES. 

Grosse Mignon, Veloutee de Merlet, Gtirmcood's Royal George, Large 
French Mignon, Vineuse. One of the most beautiful and delicious 
varieties in cultivation. The fruit is large, of a beautiful red or rose 
colour, and greenish yellow ; pulp tender, juicy and high flavoured 
when in perfection, which is early in September. 

Heath Freestone, Kenrick's heath. This variety was first obtained 
from the late General Heath, of Roxbury, near Boston. The fruit is 
very large, oblong and beautiful, frequently weighing half a pound; 
•colour pale yellowish green, with crimson or violet next the sun; its 
flesh is melting, juicy, rich, vinous, agreeably acid, and good ; ripens 
late in September and October. 

Hoffman's Pound, Morrison'' s Pound. This fruit is by some called 
the Morrissania, from its having been first obtained by Mr. Floy, from 
Goverueur Morris ; but it originated with Martin Hofl'man, Esq. 
of New-York. The fiuit i? very large ; skin brownish white and red; 
flesh yellow, firm, very juicy and delicious, parting from the stone ; 
greatly esteemed from its ripening late, in September and October. 

Late Abihiraels, Royale, Royal, Sourdine. Fruit large, roundish, 
inclining to oblong ; sature deeply impressed along one side, having the 
flesh swelling boldly and equally on both sides, with a slight impression 
on the summit ; skin downy, of pale green colour, streaked vvfith dull 
tawny red ; flesh white, delicate, melting, juicy and high flavoured ; a 
magnificent peach, ripening in September. Mr. Prince has the TeUm 
lie Venus under this head as a syuonyme ; but it is generally considered 
a distinct variety. 

Malta, Peche Malte, Belle de Paris, Malte de Normandie, Italian 
Peach. Fruit above the medium size ; colour pale yellowish green, 
marbled with purplish red ; flesh yellow, juicy, rich, vinous, and of 
superior flavour; ripens at the end of August. 

Madeleine de Courson, Madeleine Rouge, Rouge Puysannc, Red 
Magdalen of Miller. An excellent fruit, of large size, and fine yellow 
and red colour ; ripens at the end of August; flesh firm, white, but red 
at the ttone; sugary and very rich 

Mammoth, S a arte Mont, or Aunt Sarah's Peach. A large variety 
cultivated in New-York under the latter name in the eighteenth century 
by H. Bievoort; its tkiu is pale green, with a brownish cast on the 
exposed side ; flesh greenish yellow, sweet and rich, separating freely 
from the stone ; early in September. 

Monstrous Lemon, Largest Lemon. This variety was first discov- 
ered in the garden of Mr. Tiebout, now Union Place ; the fruit is of the 
largest size, and in the gaidens of two persons in New-York, has 
weighed seventeen ounces, as stated by Mr. Prince. He says the tree 
does not bear well, unless the situation is a sheltered one ; the fruit is 
late in ripening. 

Morris's Red Freestone, Red Rare Ripe. Fruit nearly round, of 
large size, apex a little sunken j skin greenish yellow, w'th red cheek; 



DESCKIPTIVE LIST OP PEACHES. 325 

fl'esh delicious and melting ; a first-rate variety ; ripe towards the end 
of August. 

Morris's White Ff eestone, White Rare Ripe, Luscious White Rare 
Ripe, Philadelphia Freestone. Fruit large, and inclining to the oval 
form, sature even, but not deep ; apex a little sunken ; skin white or 
ratlier yellowish ; flesh white, juicy, rich and sweet ; ripe in September. 
Neil's Early Purple, Early Purp'e of Miller, Joh)isoii''s Parple 
Amnt, Padley's Early Purple, Veritable Pourpree Hative, Pcche du Vin. 
One of the most beautiful of peaches; of medium size; skin yellow, 
but on the sumiy side of a fine deep red and purplish colour ; it ripens 
by the middle of August ; flesh melting, juicy, with a rich vinous flavour ; 
an excellent fruit 

New Royal C harlot fe. Queeii Charlotte, Neio Early Purple, Kew 
Early Purple. A delicious peach, rather above medium size ; skin pale 
greenish white, with deep red next the sun ; flesh greenish white, rich 
and agreeable ; ripe in August. 

Noblesse, Mellish's Favourite. The tree is of a vigorous growth, 
and very productive ; fruit lai-ge, somewhat oval ; of a pale red colour, 
maiiiled with different shades ; pulp juicy, rich, and melting when at 
maturity, which is in August and September. 

Peesid.-nt. This -mneAy originated at Bedford, on Long Island. 
It is a rich, meltii^, j/cy fruit, of large size, roundish, with a shallow 
sature ; skin vamdowny, dall red next the sun. pale yellowish green 
in the shade ; tbf^urface covered with small red dots ; a first-rate peach ; 
ripe in Septernhfer/ 

Red Cheek ]|[ALACATtJ>fE, Yelloio Malacaton, Alhcrge Incomparable, 
Lady Gallatin Ofobyn Peach, Hoggs' Malacaton. This variety origin- 
ated at the Fluking Nursery; the fruit is of large size and oval form ; 
its colour is yellow, with a red cheek on the sunny side ; the flesh is 
also yellow, melting, rich, juicy and luscious. There is another variety 
of this fruit, which originated with Mr. Polls, of New- York, said to be 
very productive, and of excellent quality; ripens in September. 

Royal Kensington. An excellent variety, of medium size ; skin 
pale greenish yellow, marbled with red ; flesh pale yellow ; juice rich, 
and of a highly vinous flavour ; ripe in August. 

Smooth-Leaved Royal George. This is considered by Lindley as 
a very superior variety ; fruit above the middle size, globular, depres- 
sed; skin yellowish white, bat of a beautiful red or carmine colour 
next the sun ; flesh melting ; juice plentiful, and of a high vinous flavour ; 
early in September. 

Sweet Water, Early Sweet Water. This variety is said to have 
originated at Flushing ; its form is round, and its colour whitish green, 
with a red blush at maturity, which is early in August ; the flesh is very 
tender, melting, rich and j uicy. 

Teton de Vends. There are two or three varieties bearing this 
name ; the fruit of the best variety is large, globular ; of a pale yellowish 
green coloiur, marbled with red; flesh greenish yellow, but red at the 
stone ; a delicious flavoured peach ; ripe in September. 

28 



526 DESCKIPTirE LIST OF TEACHES, 

Van Zandt's Superb, Waxen Rare Ripe. This Tariety originated 
with Mr. Van Zandt, of Flushing ; its form is oval ; its skin smooth, 
somewhat mottled, and of a beautiful waxen appearance ; flesh melting,, 
and of excellent flavour ; in August and September. 
, Washington Peach, Boyce Peach A first-rate peach; colour a 
pale yellow in the shade, but dark red next the sun ;. flesh very juicy 
and delicious ; ripens towards the end of August. A peculiar trait in 
this peach, is its rapid growth ; it will, while ripening, in about ten days, 
nearly double its ordinary size, weighing over half a pound. 

White Blossom, Willow Peach, White Blossomed Incomparable. 
This variety originated on Long Island ; the fruit is perfectly white, of 
an oval form and handsome appearance ; the flesh is also white, melt- 
ing, juicy and pleasant ; it is much used for preserves when not over 
ripe, and is at full maturity in September. 

Yellow Admirable, Ahricote'e, Admirable Jaune, Peche D' Orange, 
Grosse Jaune, Peche de Burai, Sandalie, Hermaphrodite, Apricot Peach, 
The fruit of this variety is large ; yellow white immature, but laved 
with red when rij^e ; flesh firm, yellow ; flavour similar to the apricot ; 
ripe late in September. 

PAVIES, OR CLINGSTONE PEA'CHES. 

Catherine. Fruit large, round, variable; colour a beautiful red 
next the sun, marbled and dashed with darker shades ; pale yellow in 
the shade , flesh very white, tinged with yellow; juice abundant, and of 
very rich and sweet flavour ; tree a good bearer ; its fruit ripe in 
September. 

Congress Clingstone. A fine large round peach; skin yellowish 
white, marbled with red ; flesh melting, juicy, and of delicious flavour ; 
in September. 

Easly Newixgton, Smith's Newington, Neio-York Early Nemngton . 
A much esteemed fruit ; its colour in the shade is white, but next the 
sun red; its form is globular ; its flesh is juicy, rich, and high flavoured. 
The tree is productive, and the fruit matures in August. 

HsATH, Heath Clingstone, Late Heath, Late October, Mr. Prince 
says, that the original tree of this variety was discovered growing wild 
on the farm of the late Judge Willet, of Flusliing, and took its name 
from its being found in a barren field. The fruit is very large, of oval 
or oblong form ; the skin is downy, nearly all white ; the flesh is pecu- 
liarly rich and highly flavoured, tender, melting, and juicy. There is 
another variety mentioned by Mr. Kenrick, and called by the same 
name, said to have been raised from a stone brought by Mr. Heath 
from the Mediterranean. 

Incomparable, Pavie Admirable. The fruit of this esteemed variety 
is large and roundish ; the skin pale yellow colour, shaded with scarlet 
or deep crimson next the sun ; flesh pale yellow, juice sugary and well 
flavoured ; ripe in September. 



t)ESCRI?tlVE LIST Of PEACHEg. 32*7 

Lemon Clingstone, Kennedy's Carolina, Pine Apple Clingstone, 
Hoyte's Lemon Clingstone, Lemon Largest, Large Yellow Pine Apple, 
This fruit is of large size and oval shape ; yellow in the shade, but 
bright red next the sun ; it resembles a lemon, having a nipple at the 
apex ; some have weighed twelve ounces ; its flesh is firm, and is at 
maturity in New-York by the end of September. 

Monstrous Patie of Pompon.ve, Gros Molecoton, Gros Persique, 
Rouge Pavie Monstreux, Pavie Comu. Fruit very large, roundish, ^ 

with an obtuse nipple ; skin downy, of a fine red and greenish white ^-^ 
colour ; flesh white, deep red at the stone, juicy and vinous, excellent 
for preserving ; in October. 

New-York White Clingstone, Williams^s New-York. Fruit large, 
round, with a pointed apex ; sldn white, tinged with rose ; flesh yellow, 
melting or soft, but adhering closely to the stone ; juice very plentiful, 
sweet, luscious and high flavoured. Ripe in September, 

Old MixoN Clingstone. Of all clingstone peaches, this is consi- 
dered the most delicious ; the skin is yellow, with a bright red cheek, 
marbled; flesh red at the stone, rich, juicy, sweet and high flavoured; 
the fruit ripens gradually in September. This variety is cultivated in 
Massachusetts under the above name, but the tree and fruit are so 
similar to the Old Newin^ton, as to render it doubtful whether it is a 
■difitiftct variety- 

Old Newingtom, Newinglon. The fruit ofthis variety is large, rather 
globular, of a fine bright red and pale yellow colour, marbled with 
dashes and streaks of a deeper colour; the flesh is yellowish white 
but red at the stone ; also juicy, rich, sweet, and well flavoured ; the tree 
is very productive, in September-. 

P.4.VIE .VIadeleine, Pavie Blanc, Melecoton, Myrcoton, Merlicoton, 
Persiqiie a Gros-Fruit Blanc. The fruit of this variety is of medium 
size, somewhat broadly globular ; skin pale yellowish white and mar- 
bled red ; flesh yellowish white to the stone ; juice sugary and of aa. 
agreeable flavour; towards the end of August and in September. 



PEAR. 

PoiRiER. Pyms. 

The Pear tree, in its wild state, is thorny, with nprighl 
branches, tending to the pyramidal form, in which it differs 
materially from the Apple tree. The twigs, or sprays, 
hang down ; the leaves are elliptical, obtuse, serrate ; the 
flowers in terminating, villose corymbs, produced from wood 
jof the preceding year, or fron? buds gradually formed on the 



328 PEAR. 

several years' growth, on the extremities of verj short 
protruding shoots, technically called spurs. It is found in 
a wild state in England, and abundantly in France and 
Grermany, as well as in other parts of Europe, not excepting 
liussia, as far North as lat. 51. It grows in almost any 
soil. The cultivated tree differs from the Apple, not only 
in having a tendency to the pyramidal form, bat also in 
being more apt to send out tap roots ; it- being, as a seed- 
ling plant, longer (generally from fifteen to eighteen years) 
in coming into bearing ; and when on its own root, or 
grafted on a wild Pear stock, of being much longer lived. 
In a dry soil, it will exist for centuries, and still keep its 
health, productiveness, and vigour. There are fewer good 
sorts of Pears, in proportion to the number of current 
varieties than Apples. The Romans had thirty-six varieties 
in Pliny's time : there are now several hundreds in the 
French and British nurseries; the London Horticultural 
Catalogue contains the names of six hundred and twenty- 
two. Professor Van Mons, of Brussels, and M. Duquessiei 
of Mons, fruited about eight thousand seedling Pears, from 
which they obtained nearly eight hundred sorts worth culti- 
vating, (Neil's Hort. Jour.) The varieties are divided by 
the French into different classes of fruits, which are 
designated as Beurrees, Crcvers, Poiree, &c. 

CRiTEitioN OF A GOOD Pear. — Dcsscrt Pcars are ehar-ae- 
terized by a sugary aromatic juice, with the pulp soft and 
sub-liquid, or melting, as in the Beurrees, or Butter Pears ; 
or of a firm and crisp consistence, or breaking as in the 
Winter Bergamots. Kitchen Pears should be of a large size, 
with the flesh firm, neijher breaking nor melting, and 
rather austere than sweet. Perry Pears may be either large 
or small ; but the more austere the taste, the better will be 
the liquor ; excellent perry is made from the wild Pear. 

Pear trees are propagated by grafting in the Spring, or 
budding late in the Summer, and also by seed taken from 
the best sorts for the purpose of obtaining new varieties. In 
raising Pear stocks, the wild Pear is preferred in Europe, us 
being calculated to produce plants more hardy and durable 
than the cultivated sorts ; and for dwarfing and precocity, 
the Quince is preferred. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEARS. 829 

The Pear is a much liandsomer upright growing tree 
than the Apple ; more durable, and its wood hard and 
valuable for the turner and millwright ; but its blossoms 
being white, are less showy than those of the Apple. 

A Pear Orchard may be planted at any time after the 
trees are two years' old from the graft; and as trees from 
young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or 
twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any 
time within that period. They may be planted at from 
twenty to thirty-five feet distance from each other, according 
to the nature of the tree. The dwarf varieties may be planted 
in the kitchen garden, and trained either as espaliers or 
dwarf standards. 

Standard Pear trees will require but little pruning after 
the heads are once formed ; in doing which, the branches 
should be permitted to extend on all sides freely. Several 
years may elapse before any cross-placed, very irregular, or 
crowded branches, require pruning ; yet there are some 
kinds whose form of growth resembles the Apple ; such 
will need frequent pruning. *' The Pear tree," Mr. Phail 
says, " does not produce blossoms on the former year's 
wood, as several other sorts of trees do. Its blossom buds 
are formed upon spurs growing out of wood over one year 
old, and, consequently, projecting spurs all over the tree 
must be left for that purpose." In some Pears, Knight 
observes, "4he fruit grows only on the inside of those 
branches which are exposed to the Sun and air; in others 
it occupies every part of the tree." Withering says, that 
" the French make perry, or poire, from the fermented juice 
of the Pear, which is little inferior to wine; and that even 
the bad eating kinds, pared and dried in an oven, will keep 
several years with or without sugar. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 

SUMMER FRUIT. 

Dearborn's S£EDLINg« This variety originated in the garden of the 
Hon. Hi A. S. Dearborn, of Roxbury. The tree is of vigorous growth ; 

28* 



330 DESCRIPTIVE List OP PfiAKS. 

fruit of medium size, rounded at the crown, and regularly diminishes 
in a parabolic manner to the stalk; the skin is smooth, thin, green, 
witli russet spots; at maturity it turns to a delicate yellow ; flesh very 
melting, and of the fineBt flavour; in August. 

Governor SrarvESANT. This pear took its name from its having 
been first cultivated at Stuyvesant's farm on New-York Island. The 
original tree is upwards of 200 years old, and prodyces fruit in August 
of a medium size, of a greenish yellow colour ; juicy, sweet, aromatic 
and excellent. 

Jargonelle, Epargne, Beau Present, Saint Sampson, Crrossc Cuisse 
Madame, Saint Lambert, Poire des Tables des Princes. Fruit rather 
large, oblong, of a pale green colour, a little marked with red ; flesh 
melting, juicy, with a slightly acid, rich and agreeable flavour. It 
ripens early in August, is one of the most productive of all pears, and 
the very best in its season. 

JuLiEXKE OF Cose, Ii'Archiduc D Ete, Summer Beurre, Summer 
Doyenne, Summer St. Michael, so called near Boston, Bloodgjod Pear 
of New-York. Fruit medium size, smooth, bright yellow at maturity; 
yvith a faint blush next the sun ; form rather ovate, tapering towards 
the stalk; flesh perfectly melting, rich and juicy. The tree bears young, 
Olid most profusely, and matures its fruit in August and September, 

London Sugar. This fruit is below medium size; colour greenish 
yellow, tinged with brown; form turbinate, narrowed at the crown; 
flesh tender, niiilting, saccharine, of a ricb musky flavour; an excel- 
lent early fruit, and very productive. Ripe in July and August. 

Madeleine, Magdalene, Citron des Carmes, Early Chaumontelle. 
This pear is of medium size, pale yellow, with an occasional blush 
next the sun; flesh white, melting, perfumed. A fine old fruit,, ripen- 
ing towa/ds the end of July. 

Prematu.ie. a new pear, about the size of the Crawford, imt more 
juicy and delicious, and remarkably early ; it commands a good price in 
the markets of Edinburgh, Scotland, and is reputed a most superior 
early fruit, ripening in July and August. 

Rousselet de Rheims, Petit Rousselet. Fruit small, pyramidal, 
greenish yellow at maturity, but brown red next the sun, with russetty 
spots; flesh half beurre, fine, very perfumed. Good to i>ut in brandy, 
and to dry ; in August and September. 

Sabine d'Ete. This pear is of pyramidal form, terminating in a 
round blunt point at the stalk ; colour yellow, but fine scarlet next the 
sun; the whole surface smooth, regular and polished; flesh white, 
melting, juicy and highly perfumed ; the tree is an abundant bearer, and 
ripens its fruit in Aug:jst 

Skinless Pear, Poire sans Peau, Fleur de Guignes. A small oblong 
ptar ; the skin, which is very smooth and thin, is pale green, marbled 
with red and yellow ; flesh cri^p, sweet, and of pleasant flavour; the 
tree is very prolific, ripening its fruit in August. 

Summer Fran c :ieal, Francrcai d'£fe, Fondante, France Caneel, Grcs 



DESCRIFTIVB LIST OP PEARS. 33P 

Mlcet d'Ete. Fruit above medium size ; shape oblongi thickest about 
one-third from the eye ; skiar yellowish green ; flesh melting, rich aad 
excellent; ripe early in September. 

Summer Kose, Thorny Rose, Epinc Rose, Poire de Rose, Roscnhimc 
Kraft. A pear of medium size, in form resembling an apple ; the skin 
is dull yellow, spotted with russet, and marbled with red; a very pro- 
ductive variety, ripening its fruit early in August. 

Williams's Bo.nchretien, Bartlet. Thi^ fruit originated with a Mr; 
Wheeler, at Aldermaston, in Berkshire, England, but was subsequently 
extensively propagated by Mr. Williams, near London — hence ita 
name. The fruit is large, oblong ; the stalk thick and fleshy, an inch 
long ; the colour at maturity yellow, tinged with red ; flesh whitishy 
very meltinj, and delicate ; juice perfumed, sweet and abundant. Tree 
very productive, and fruit ripe by the end of August. 

Windsor, Guise Madame of the French. A middle sized oblong 
pear; colour greenish yellow, but brownish red next the sun; half 
melting, sweet, a little musky, rather coarse, but a good dessert fruit in 
its season ; ripe by the end of Augu.',t. 

AXJSTUMN FRUIT. 

AnTUMN' BEr:GA3ioT, Common Bergamot, York Bergamot. Fruit glo- 
bular, depressed, the skin rough, yellowish gresn, and dull browii; 
flesh pale, melting, juicy, sugary, and perfumed; ripe in September 
and October. This variety has been cultivated in England from the 
time of Julius Caesar, and is ^still considered a first-rate pear in its 
season. 

Eei.le et Bon.ne, Sckone und gutc. Fruit very large, globular, 
depressed, the stalk long; skin greenish yellow, but next the sun 
yellow, w.th .spots of russet ; flesh white, sweet, exceeding rich and 
agreeably perfumed. The tree is very productive, and the fruit ripejis 
IB September. This variety has been cultivated under the erroneous 
names of Charles d' Aiitric he, Belle De Bruxelles and BergamoUe 
Crussanne, which are distinct fruits. 

Brown B:urke, Beurre Rouge, Beurre d'Or, Beurre Doie, Beurre du 
Rn, Bu-rc d' Ambjise, Isam,'jcrt, Ral Btierre. Golden Beurre, Poire 
d Amboise. This was formerly considered the best of all pears in its 
season. Fruit rather large, of greenish yellow, and dusky red colour, 
covered with thin russet ; flesh melting, buttery, rich and excellent ; at 
perfection in October and November. 

Charles d'Altriche, Charles of Austria. A fine and beautiful fruit, 
large, three and a half inches long, and three inches broad; colour 
greenish yellow, with brown spots and partially russetted ; flesh white, 
melting, juicy, and deliciou ;. Ripe in October, aod good in November. 

Capi vuMOhT, Beurre de Capiaumont. This variety is much esteemed 
in the vicinity of Boston. Fruitof medium size, turbinate ; skin ye'.Iow, 
tinged with fine red or cinnamon; flesh yellowish, meltinj, very rich, 
and high flavoured ; in September and October, 



382 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEARS. 

DsticRs d'Ardenpont, Delices d' Hardenpont de Toulouse. Fruit 
above medium size ; oblong, pyramidal ; akin yellow at maturity, and 
partially covered with a thin cinnamon coloured russet ; flesh yellowish 
white, nearly melting ; juice pleasant, sweet and abundant ; in October 
and November. 

Dix A native variety originating in the garden of Mr. Dix, in 
Boston; fruit large, oblong ; skin when ripe, yellow, with a blush of 
rei ; flesh melting, juicy and rich ; in October and November. 

DoTEN.VE Santelete. A new, fine, handsome Flemish pear; fruit 
above the middle size, pyramidally oblong; skin pale green, speckled 
with gray russet; flesh white, a little gritty, but tender; juice saccha- 
rine, with a slight musky perfume. The tree is hardy, and ripens its 
fruit early in October. 

Dbche3s or Angouleme, Du':kesse d'Angouleme. A pear of first- 
rate excellence. Form roundish, oblong, tapering towards the stalk ; 
skin dull yellow, with broad russet patches ; flesh rich, melting, very 
juicy, and high flavoured, with a most agreeable perfume. Specimens 
of this fruit have been shown in England, weighing twenty-two ounces. 
At perfection in October and November. 

Gansel's Beroamot, Broca's Bergamol, Ives's Bergamol, Bonne 
Rouge, Fruit varying from middle size to large ; ovate, flattened ; 
colour dull green, slightly red next the sun ; flesh white, melting, sweet, 
rich and high flavoured. A delicious pear, ripe in October and good 
till Christmas. 

Golden BEaRRK of Bilbo a. This variety was imported from Bilboa, 
by iVlr. Hooper, of Marblehead: the original name being unknown. 
Fruit of medium size, oblong ; colour a bright golden yellow, with 
patches of russet ; perfectly melting, and of fine flavour. A beautiful 
pear tree, a great bearer, and worthy of cultivation, ripe in October. — 

Gore's Heathcot. A native variety, highly esteemed in Massachu- 
setts. Fruit of medium size; form long; skin of a uniformly light 
yellow; flesh melting, juicy, and high flavoured. The growth of the 
tree is handsome and vigorous, producing abundant crops in Septem- 
ber and October. 

Green Sylvange, Sylvange Vert, Bergamotte Syhavge. A most 
superior pear, of medium size, skin rough, and green, speckled with 
gray or black. The flesh is greenish near the sldn, white in the centre, 
soft, saccharine and juicy. Fruit in perfection from October to Christ- 
mas. Tha tree is a great bearer, and specimens of the fruit have been 
known to weigh thirteen ounces. 

Hacon's Incomparable, Norfolk Seedling. Fruit middle sized, of 
pale yellow colour, mixed with green, partially covered with orange 
russet ; flesh yellowish white, slightly gritty, but very tt nder, juicy^ 
Bweet and rich ; and possessing a high musky and perfumed flavour. 
The tree is a great bearer, and the fruit excellent, in November and 
December. A silver medal was given to the originator of this fruit, as 
a prize, in England, 1830. 



BES€K1PT1V£ LIST OF PEARS. 333 

Harvard, UEpergne. This variety is liighly prized in the Boston 
markets; fruit above medium size; oblong, swollen at the crown ; skin 
russetty yellow, tinged with red; flesh white, juicy and melting; in 
September and October. 

Marie Louise, Fruit oblong, tapering towards both ends; size 
varying from medium to large; skin nearly smooth, yellowi h green, 
and cinnamon coloured russet ; flesh white, melting, juicy and rich. It 
ripens in October and November, and is an excellent fruit in its season. 

Moor Fowl Ego. Fruit rather small, globular, ovate, swollen in the 
middle; skin orange brown next the sun, with spots of russet; flesh 
yellowish white, a little gritty, but tender and mellow, juice saccharine, 
a little jjerfumed. This is a hardy Scotch variety, ripe in September 
and good in October 

Napoleo.v, Medallle, Sauvageon Liart. Fruit large, form of the 
Colmar ; skin smooth ; colour bright green, but at maturity, pale green ; 
flesh very melting, with an unusual abundance of rich agreeable juice. 
At perfection in October and November. 

Princesse OF O.'.ANGE, Prinfcss d'Orange. The fruit is roundish; 
the skin bright reddish orange russet ; flesh yellowish white, sugary and 
rich, in some sea-ons perfectly melting, but occasionally a little gritty. 
A beautiful pear, and of good quality ; in October. 

Seckl"-;, New-York Red Check, Red Ch'ck Scckle, Sycle. An excellent 

/) native fruit, in size rather small ; colour varying from yellowish to 

brownish russet, but bright red next the sun , flesh meltin'T, spicy, and 

of a most extraordinary rich flavour. This fruit grows in clusters, in 

great abundance, and is at perfection in Sejitember and October. 

Swan's Egg. Fruit small, of a oval, turbinate figure, colour yellovv- 
i^ green, and dull russetty brown ; flesh tender and melting, with a 
rich, saccharine, musky flavour. An excellent fruit, ripe in October. 
The tree is remr.rkably tall, upright vigorous and productive. 

Urbaniste The fruit is of medium size, pyramidally ovate ; skin 
pale green, inclining to yellow, with green streaks ; flesh white, but 
reddish yellow next the core ; it is quite melting, juicy, and very sweet, 
with a little perfume. It rii^ens from the middle of September to No- 
vember. 

Wilkinson. A native pear from Cumberland, R. I. The tree 
ba&ra] young, and is very fruitful; size above medium ; form oblong; 
skin yellow, with a brownish black; flesh white, juicy and melting; at 
perfection in October and November. 

WINTER FRUIT. 

Beurre D'AuEMBERa, Beurre d Aremberl, Due d'Arcmberg, Poire 
d'Aremberg, Beurre Dcschamps, Beurre Ophelins of Descham'ps. The 
English and French writers speak of tliis pear as one of the best in cul- 
tivation. The tree is a great bearer, comes early into cultivation, and 
the fruit will keep till March. Fruit large, turbinate ; skin of a delica'.^ 



334 ORSCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEARS. 

pale green dotted witli russet, which becomes of a deeper yellow at 
maturity ; flesh whitish, fine, very juicy, perfectly melting, and very 
extraordinary' rich, sweet, high flavoured and excellent. 

Bel'rbe Diel, Ditl's Butterbirne, Dor thee Royale, Beurre de Yelle, 
Benrre Royale, Poire de Melon. This ranks amongst the beet of pears. 
The tree is of vigorous growth ; fruit when in perfectien, four inches 
long, and three inches broad ; the skin at maturity is bright orange, 
with reddish russet; flesh clear white, tender, melting, and juicy, and 
of a delicious aromatic flavour; from November to January. 

Bkurre Ranck, Beurre Epine, Hardenpont de Printemps. This is 
said to be a first-rate pear. The tree is vigorous and a good bearer ; 
fruit middle sized, oblong ; skin deep green, with russetty specks ; flesh 
green, melting, having a delicious rich flavour, with very little acid. It 
shrivels in ripening, but will keep till April. 

Bkzy Vaet, Bezy de Saint Vaast. Fruit somewhat the shape of a 
Swan's Egg, but larger; skin dull green, covered with russetty spots; 
flesh yellowish; perfectly melting, sweet and agreeably perfumed ; at 
perfection in November and December. 

Catillac Fruit very large rather turbinate ; pale yellow, stained 
with red ; flesh firm and breaking ; its flavour atringent ; an excellent 
baldng pear ; from November to April. 

Ch lijoNTEL, Bezy de ChanmonttUe, Poire de Chaumontelle, Beurre 
d'Hiver. This noble old variety is a fruit varying in size, from large to 
very large ; its colour at maturity yellow, tinged with brownish red next 
the sun ; its form variable ; flesh melting, juicy, sweet, mu-ky, excellent : 
in seas.^n from November to February. 

CoLMAR, Foire Manne, Bergamotle Tardive, Incomparable. This 
fruit is rather large ; skin smooth, of a green colour, changing to a 
yellow at maturity ; form pj'ramidal ; flesh melting, juicy, saccharine, 
and of excellent flavour. The fruit is in perfection from November to 
February. 

Easter Beurrb, Bergamott" dc la Pentecote, Beurre d'Hicer de 
Bruxellts, Doyenne d'Hiver, de Bnixelles. Bezi ChaumotiteUe Tres Gros. 
Of ali the late keeping pears, this is considered the best, (for England ) 
Fruit large, roundish, oblong ; colour green, but yellow at maturity, 
with specks of russet brown ; fle-h yellowish white, perfectly buttery 
and meltinf, also extremely high flavoured ; it is eatable in November, 
and will keep till May: it is a most profuse bearer, on a quince stock. 

EcH ssBRT. Bezyde Chassery, Bezyde Landry. Poire d CEiif, Ambrette, 
Tilton of New Jersey. Fruit middle size, of a roundish turbinate 
figure, something like a Citron, or the Ambrette ; skin smooth, greenish 
yellow, with gray specks; flesh melting, juicy and delicious; from 
December to March. 

Glout MoRCE ,u, Glouz Morceauz. Avery large Belgic varietyi of 
great excellence ; fruit of ovalish form, pale green colour, inclining to 
yellow, with russetty specks and blotches ; flesh whitish, firm, very juicy 
sod excellent ; in peifection from Novembrr to March. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 335 

UoLLkSv B ^RG^yioT, Bergamotte de Holland, LfAlencon, Amoselle, 
Lord Cheney's. Friiit very large, globular, but broadest at the crown, 
flattened ; of greenish yellow colour, marbled with russet j flesh hail 
breaking, juicy, and high flavoured. It keeps till May, and succeeds 
on the quince. 

Liwis. This variety originated on the farm of Mr. I. Lewis, of 
Roxbury, Mass. The size is medium; form somewhat globular; skin 
when ripe, a greenish yellow ; the flesh is white, ver\' melting, juicy 
and excellent, from November to March. The tree grows quick, and 
bears abundance of fruit. 

Loui.SE Bo5NE, Good Louise Aranchie. A large pear, somewhat 
oblong, resembling the St. Germain ; skin yellowish green ; Cesh ex- 
tremely tender, and full of an excellent saccharine, well flavoured juice. 
A first-rate fruit, from October to Christmas. 

Newtow.s Vergaleac. a large pear, of a yellow colour, with a 
very short stalk ; the tree grows verv' crooked and of an irregular lorm, 
bending by the weight of its fruit, which is excellent to preserve, 
or for bakinj. Its productiveness renders it desirable in an orchard. 

Passe Colmar, Fondante de Panisel, Passe Colmar Gris dit Precel, 
Poire Precel, Passe Colmar Epineuz, Beurre Colmar Gris dit Precel, 
Beurre d Argens&n, CAapmanV. A most valuable pear, of medium 
size, conical, flattened next the eye ; skin at maturity yellowish, sprink- 
led with russet, a tinge of red next the sun ; flesh yellowish, melting, 
juicy, rich and excellent. The tree is a good bearer, and the fruit is in 
perfection from November to Febniary. 

PoU.ND Pear, Black Pear of Worcester, Parhinson^s Warden, Grande 
Monarque, Licre, Groote Mogul, Gros Rateau Gris, Lore Pear. Fruit 
very large, of a roundish turbinate figure ; skin riugh, covered with 
dull russet ; flesh hard and coarse, but excellent when baked or stewed 
in Winter. Grafted on a pear stock. The tree bears so abundantly, 
as to bend like a weeping ^villow. 

Sai.vt Gesjiaix, Jnconnue de la Fare. This celebrated ancient fruit 
is large, of a green colour, covered with russet spots ; at maturity a 
yellowish cast; its flesh very melting, juicy, saccharine, shgbtly acid, 
and deUcious ; it ripens in November and may be kept till March. 

TtLLLNGfoN. A fine English variety, highly esteemed in Massachu- 
setts ; in size medium, form turbinate : colour dull green and dull red, 
russetted ; flesh white : particularly sweet and rich, though not very 
juicy : good from November to February. 

Wi.NTSR Nelis, Nelis d Hiter. La Bonne Malinoise. All accounts 
agree that this is a most excellent Winter pear : its size is above medium, 
somewhat oval : its skin green and russetty, full of gray dots : flesh 
yellowish white, melting, high flavoured, with a musky perfume. At 
perfection in December and January. 

PERRY PEARS. 

Bakla:(o. This variety tookiu name from the original tree, growing 



S36 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 

in afield called Bare Lands, in Herefordshire, England. The fruH \i 
smallish, of ovate form: skin dull green, russetted with gray. It is 
deemed excellent for perry. Specific gravity of its juice 1070. 

HoLKORK. Fruit small, globular: skin of a dingy yellowish green, 
tinged vvitli red. Excellent perry is made of this variety in Hereford- 
shire, England. Specific gravity of its juice 1066. 

HuFFCAP. There are several varieties of pears bear this name, but 
the best perry is made of the true Herefordshire Huftcap. The fruit 
is middle sized, of pale green colour, marked with gray russet. Spe- 
cific gravity of its juice 1070. 

Monarch. A new pear, considered by Mr. Knight as without arival. 
The tree is of rapid growth, and an abundant bearer: frtiit large, of an 
extraordinary inusky flavour, and deemed excellent for perry: good 
also for the table : from October to December and January. 

Oldfiei.d. Fruit below the medium size, of pale green colour, WMth 
russetty spots. An e.xcellent perry fruit. Specific gravity of its juice 
1067. From this variety is made the celebrated Ledbury Perry. 

LoxGLAXD, Fruit very handsome, much like the swan's egg in shape : 
skin bright nold colour, tinged and mottled with a russetty lively orange : 
specific gravity of its juice 1063. The tree is handsome and upright, 
and much Cultivated in Herefordshire for perry. 

Tkinton Squash. Fruit middle sized, of angular shape : skin a 
muddy russetty green, marbled with dull orange, interspersed with 
ash-coloured specks. It originated in Teintt n, Gloucestershire. and the 
perry made from this fruit is df the very highest quality, aomething 
approaching in colour and briskness to champaigue, for which fine 
samples of it have sometimes been sold. 



PLUM. 

Pbunier. Pruntcs. 

The Plum tree rises fifteen feet in height, branchinp; into 
a moderately spreading head; the leaves are ovate, serrated, 
and on short petioles ; petals white. The natural colour of 
the fruit is generally considered to be black ; but the varie- 
ties in cultivation are of yellow, red, blue, and green colours, 
and of different forms and flavours. There are several 
good sorts grow wild in the hedges of Britain, and also in 
America, but its original country is supposed to be Asia ; 
and according to Pliny, it was taken from Syria into 
Greece, and from thence into Italy. There are many 



PLUM. sat 

val-ieties cultivated in France ; and in the London Horti- 
cultural Garden there are two hundred and ninetr-eight 
sorts kept under name. The green Gage is considered the 
best dessert Plum, and the Wine- sour for sweetmeats ; but 
the Damson is the best baking Plum. 

The Plum is said to succeed best in a lofty exposure, and 
may yield well in the mountainous parts of the United 
States ; it yields well near Albany, but the fruit is by no 
means plentiful in the vicinity of the City of New- York. 
Like the JNectarine, it is subject to the attack? of the Curcu. 
lio, and other insects. 

It has been observed that Plum trees growing in frequented 
lanes or barn yards, are more generally fruitful than those 
cultivated in private gardens, or secluded situations; this 
circumstance is by some attributed to the jarring of the 
trees, by cattle and swine rubbing against them : thus 
causing the defective fruit to fall on the ground. Geese 
kept in orchards or fruit gardens, often prove beneficial ; as 
they, by devouring the defective fruit and other corruptible 
matter, prevent the possibility of insects getting into the 
grounil, so as to perpetuate their existence, or multiply their 
species. 

Cobbett attributes the scarcity of Plums in New-York 
'to neglect. In his American Gardener, paragraph S'iO, he 
asks, " how is it that we see so few Plums in America, when 
the markets are supplied with cart-loads in such a chilly, 
shady, and blighty country as England 1' 

* • • • » m 

I would answer this query by informing the reader, that 
the inhabitants of our parent cmuitry, with a view to derive 
the full benefit of the'Sun's rays for the cultivation of Plums, 
Peaches, Nectarines, and such other fruits as require extra 
heat, train their trees against walls, fences, or trellis-work ; 
and from their having lliese means of support, gardeners 
have no inducement to plant them deeper than is necessary; 
vrhereas, from the circumstance of the American climate 
being sufiiciently warm to ripen those fruits on standard 
trees, they are generally so cultivated. Manv persons, te 

29 



338 DEgCRIPTlVE LIST OP PLtJMg. 

save the trouble of staking, or otherwise supporting their 
trees, plant them too deep, and thus defeat the operations of 
Nature. That this is a prevalent error, has been shown, 
page 311 and 319 to 822, to which the reader is referred 
for a more concise view of the subject. 

New varieties of the Plum are produced from seed ; and 
the old kinds are generally propagated by budding on 
stocks of free-growing Plums, in preference to grafting^ 
because Plum trees are very apt to gum wherever large 
wounds are made in them. All the sorts produce their fruit 
on small natural spurs rising at the ends and along the sides 
of the bearing shoots of one, two, or three years' growth* 
In most sorts, new fruit branches are two years old before 
the spurs bear. The same branches and spurs continue 
fruitful, in proportion to the time which they take to come 
into bearing. 

After the formation of the head is begun, it takes from 
two to six years before the different sorts come into bearing. 
Standards must be allowed to expand in free growth, 
occasionally pruning long ramblers and irregular cross 
branches. In annual pruning, thin crowded parts , cut 
away worn out bearers, and all decayed and canUery wood. 
The Plum may be cultivated in small gardens, trained as 
espaliers, or to a close fence, like the Apricot, &c. 

The tree is of further use than for its fruit as a dessert, 
&c. the bark dyes yellow ; the wood is used by turners ; 
and the dried fruit, or prune, is formed into electuaries and 
gentle purgatives. Prunes were originally brought from 
Damascus, whence their name. 



SEIECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PIU5IS. 

Apricot Plum, Prune Ahricote, Abricotee de Tours. The fruit is 
large, its form globular, depressed, divided by a deep sature ; whitish 
yellow, but faint red next the i#un, and covered with bloom; its flesh is 
firm, juicy, sweet, musky and excellent ; it ripens in August and Sep- 
tember. 

Bingham. A delicious chngstone plum, of large size and oval form; 
skin bright yellow, spotted and blotched with red; flesh yellow, rich, 
and delicious ; ripening in September, 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PLUMS. 339 

Blekceer's Gage. This plum is stated to have been raised by the 
Rev. Mr. Bleecker, of Albany, from the stone of a German Prune ; it 
is a large globular fruit, of excellent quality ; skin dark yellow, with red 
spots and blotches ; the flesh ia rich, saccharine, and juicy ; in Sep- 
tember. 

Chickasaw Plum. A native species from " Virginia to Carolina." 
Fruit round ; some varieties are red, and some yellow, about the size 
of cherries. The growth of the tree is different from any other kind of 
plum, and at a little distance looks somewhat like a Peach tree. It is 
very ornamental ; and Mr. Floy says it would make a fine stock to bud 
Peaches, Nectarines, or Almonds on, in the Southern States. 

Coe's Golden Drop, Coo's Imperial, Bury Seedling, New Golden 
Drop, Fair's Golden Drop. Raised by Mr. Coe, of Bury, Norfolk, 
England. The tree is vigorous, fruit oval, of large size ; skin greenish 
yellow, spotted with violet and crimson; flesh gold colour, rich and 
excellent; the fruit ripens at the end of September, and will keep 
several weeks. A first-rate fruit, and worthy of general cultivation. 

Cooper's Large Red, Ceoper^s Large American, La Delicieuse. This 
plum is of extraordinary size, measuring witliin an eighth of two inches 
in each direction ; the skin is of a fine dark purple colour ; the flesh is 
jeliowish green, rich, juicy, and of pleasant flavour ; the fruit makes 
excellent preserves, if gafliered in August ; its great defect is an inclina- 
tion to rot 

DLiMOND Plum. Some consider this as the largest plum known ; its 
colour is a dark purple ; in form it resembles the Magnum Bonum, but 
its flavour is considered rather superior; it ripens in September. The 
tree, which grows vigorously, originated with Mr. Hooker, Kent, 
England. 

DowNTON Imperatrice. A superior late plum, of medium size, 
shaped similar to the blue imperatrice ; skin dark yellow, and very thin ; 
the flesh yellow, soft, juicy, with a high flavoured acidity ; at perfection 
in October and November. 

Dhane's Purple. A very superior plum, of an extraordinary size 
the form round ; the skin a dark purple ; flesh sweet and good ; ripen 
ingin September; named as aJjove from being imported by Mr. Duane 
of New-York. Its original name lost. 

Flushing Gage, Superior Gage. A fine plum, of oval shape and 
yellow colour, with a whitish bloom ; flesh yellow, melting, rich, and 
separating freely from the stone ; ripe towards the end of August. 

German Prune, Quetsche, Quetzen. The fruit of the Quetsche plum 
is grown for the purpose of drying, and is considered the best for use 
as prunes ; fruit below the middle size ; of an oval figure ; skin red and 
purple ; flesh yellow ; juice sweet, with a slight acid ; ripe early in 
September. 

Goliath, Goliah, St. Cloud. This fruit is very large, sometimes 
weighing four ounces ; the skin is a deep reddish purple ; the flesh pale 



3^ DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PLUM*. 

yellow, firm, and well flavoured, but not rich ; the tree is a great bearer, 
and the frtiit much used for cooking; ripe in September. 

Gr££N Gage, (jreat Queen Claudi, Daupkine, Grosse Reine Claude, 
Ahricrt Vert, Verte Bonne, Gros Dumas Vert. A middle sized round 
fruit, of a yellowish green colour, and purplish russetty red next the 
siuu; the flesh is of a greenish hue, melting, with abundance of very 
sweet and highly perfumed juice, of an exquisite taste ; it arrives at 
maturity towards the end of August. 

Horse Plum, Large Sweet Damson. Fruit of medium size, oval, 
with a deep sature in the middle ; skin dark red, inclining to purple 
when ripe ; flesh greenish yellow ; juice acid, but agreeable. Quan- 
tities of these plums are sold in the New-York markets in September 
and October, for sweetmeats. The trees are generally raised from 
suckers, and Peaches, Apricots, and Nectarines, will bud and thrive 
well on such stocks. 

Huling's Superb, Keysers Plum. This plum is of monstrous size, 
and has been known to weigh nearly four ounces; it is of roundisit 
form, and of a f'reenish yellow colour ; the flesh is sweet and excellent. 
It was rai'jed from seed by 3fr. Keyser, of Pennsylvania, and brought 
into notice by Dr. Wm. Huh, gs, of that state. 

Imperatrjce, Imjteratrice Violette, Blue Imperairice. One of th& 
best of late plums ; fruit medium size, oval ; skin rich, deep purple, 
covered with bloom ; fie-h yellowish green, a little firm, very sweet,, 
rich and- juicy; the fruit hangs long on the tree, and is at maturity from 
October to December. 

Imperial Diadem. A Targe fruit, admirably adapted for culinary 
purposes; shape oval i colour pale red, but dark when mature ; flesh 
yoUow, and separates from the stone, juice jjlentiful when perfectly 
ripe, which is eariy iu September; it is of good flavour, and liighly 
perfumed. 

Italian Damask, Damas d'llaUe. This fruit is of medium size, 
nearly round, a little flattened at the base ; its colour blue or violet, and. 
covered with a purple bloom ; its flesh is yellow, rich and juicy, and the 
tree, which matur ■ ^ itsfrait in August, is very productive. 

Kj:^ke's Plum. This variety is said to be as hardy and prolific as the 
Orleans, as handsome as the Damask, and as good as the Green Gage. 
Fruit large, roundish ; skin covered with a close, firm, azure bloom, 
through which appears a few golden specks ; flesh greenish yellow, 
firm, juicy and rich ; in perfection the early part of September. 

La Royale, Royale. A large and excellent plum, of a homely dull 
red colour, but concealed by a thick, violet or azure bloom ; flesh fine, 
yellowish green, firm, juicy, high flavoured and delicious ; a superior 
plum ; at maturity early iu September. 

Late Purple Damson, Purple-Winter Damson, Blue Damascene, Blue 
Daiiison. This variety is in great esteem for preserves, and generally 
Qommands a high price. It is of a dark purple colour, covered with.. 



BESCEtPtlva LIST OB- PLUMS. B4l 

bloom ; the flesh has rather too much acidity for a table fruit, but this 
tartness gives it an agreeable flavour when cooked. 

Lucombe's Nonsuch. This plum is large, corajJressed at the summit 
and base, its breadth is two inches ; its colour at maturity, as well as its 
form, resemble the Green Gage, but more streaked with yellow ; flesh 
firm, rich and juicy ; at maturity in August ; tree a good bearer. 

JVIimm's, Minimis Plum. The fruit is very large, a httle oblong; 
colour bright purple, covered with tliick bloom; its flesh, which seijar- 
ates from the stone, ia yellowish green, tender, juicy, and very 
agreeably flavoured: ripe in September. * 

Morocco, Earli/ Black Damask, Black Damascus, Black Morocco-' 
Early Damask, Early Morocco. This is considered as one of the best of 
early plums. The tree is very hardy and productive ; fruit middle 
sized, roundish ; skin deep blackish purple, covered with a light blue 
bloom; flesh greenish yellow, juicy, rich, and high flavoured: ripe 
early in August. 

Nectarine Plum, Caledonian, Howell's Large, Prune Peche. One of 
the most beautiful plums known; large, nearly round; the skin at 
maturity varies from red to crimson, covered with azure bloom ; flesh 
yellowish, coarse grained, astringent; juice abundant, and of mild, 
pleasant flavour ; at maturity in July and early in August. 

New-York Purple, Brevoort's Purple Bolmar, BrevoorVs Purple 
Washington. An excellent fruity raised from a seed of Bolmar's Wash- 
ington Plum, that had been impregnated with the pollen of the Blue 
Geige. The fruit is very large ; skin brown red, covered with purple 
bloom ; flesh yellow, of a rich and brisk flavour, and adheres to the 
stone : ripe about the middle of August. 

Orleans Plum, Red Damask, Damas Rouge. A v\^ell known and 
productive plum; of medium size, and somewhat oval form; the skin 
is dark red, approaching to purple, with a thin blue bloom; flesh 
yellow, firm and good, separating freely from the stone : ripe in August. 

Precose de Tours, Early Tours. The tree is vigorous und fertile ; 
fruit small, oval, d:i:k purple, covered with fine blot)m ; flesh greenish 
yellow, tender juicyj and of very agreeable flavour; one of the best 
early varieties, and very productive : ripe at the end of July. 

Prince's Imperial Gage, Flushing Gage, Superior Gage. This tree 
was originated at the Flushing nursery, from a seed of the Green Gage. 
The fruit is one of the largest of its class ; the skin at maturity is yellow', 
with a whitish bl6om j the flesh is rich, luscious and of excellent flavour, 
and makes fine preserves, if gathered towards the end of August: at 
maturity in September, 

Prune Suisse, Semiana, Prune d^Alessa, Monsieur Tardif Semiana, 
Fruit very handsome, round, flattened ; colour varying from bright 
amber to deep red, and covered with azure bloom ; flesh yellow, crack- 
hng and melting ; juice very abundant and delicious ; an excellent fruit, 
ripening in September ^nd Octobefj and much cult.Tated in Massa- 
ehusetts.. 

2a* 



342 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLITMS; 

PuRPLR Gage, Reine Claude Violetle, Die Violette, Konigon Claudte. 
This fruit is of medium size, almost round, and may be considered as 
one of the finest varieties ; its skin is of violet purple colour, with pale 
yellow dots, and covered with alight blue bloom ; flesh greenish amber, 
rich, saccharine and high flavoured : at maturity in August, and good 
until October. 

Red Diaper, Diapree Rouge, Eeche Corbon. One of the most beau- 
tiful plums known; form oval, above medium size ; colour bright red, 
with a partial degree of bloom, and speckled with dots of deeper red; 
flesh greenish yellow, soft and sweet, separates from the stone; the. 
fruit makes excellent prunes, if gathered early in September, and like 
tlie Imperatrice, will hang some time on the tree. 

Red Magnum BonuiM, Imperial, Imperial Violette, of the French. A 
large, oval plum, of deep red colour, covered with blue bloom; the 
flesh which parts from the stone, is harsh and acid ; consequently good 
for cooking, preserves, &c. : in September and October. 

Red Perdrigon, Pcrdrigon Rouge. An excellent plum, of the first 
class, of medium size, oval shape, and fine red colour, with gold 
coloured'dots and a fine bloom ; flesh bright yellovv, transparent, and 
separates from the stone ; juice sweet and delicious ; ripe early in Sep- 
tember. It makes excellent prunes. 

Red Q,deen Mother. This plum is of medium size, its colour 
bright red and yellow, somewhat spotted, and covered with pale bloom ; 
its flesh is yellow, sweet and excellent, ripening early in September 
A very productive variety. 

Royal de Tours. The tree is of extraordinary vigorous growth ; 
its principal stem rises vertically; the fruit is globular, of medium size; 
red violet CDlour, and covered with azure bloom; flesh yellow, fine, 
good; juice abundant and sweet: ripens early in August. 

Saint Catharine.. A medium sized, oblong fruit ; skin bright gold 
colour, spotted with red Et maturity, and covered with bloom ; flesh 
yellow, tender, sweet, and fine flavour ; ripens early in September, and 
will hang some time on the tree. A good market plum, for which 
purpose it is much cultivated, 

Surpasse Monsieur, A large fruit, of oval form, and of a dark red 
purplish colour, raised by a Mr. Noisette : it is said to be more beautiful 
and perfumed than the Monsieur, and the tree yields suckers which 
produce fruit in all their beauty and excellence : jn September. 

Vii.'GiNALE, This fruit ranks among the best of plums; its shape is 
round, colour yellowish, touched with violet or rose, and covered with 
dense bloom; flesh melting, juice abundant, and very agreeable; it 
etdheres to the stone : ripe in September. 

Washington, New Washington, Bolniar's Washington, Franklin. A 
very large, globular plum, inclining to oval ; colour greenish yellow, 
with crimson specks, covered with a rich bloom. This plum has tome- 
times weighed over four ounces; its flesh is yellow, firm, sweet and 
delicious ; in August. This variety originated in New-York, from 



QUINCE. 343' 

suckers of aij old root; the tree of which had been some time previously 
destroyed by lightning. 

White Magnum Bonum, Imperiale Blanche, Egg Plum, White Moguls 
fVhite Holland. This fruit is of extraordinary size, oval, yellow, cov- 
ered with pale bloom : the flesh yellow, firm, acid and austere : excel- 
lent for cooking and preserves : in September. 

White PEaoRiGov, Purdrigon Blanc. A middle sized, oblong fruit, 
of a pale yellow, with red spots, and covered with white bloom ; flesh 
yellow, rich, saccharine and juicy: it ripens in August and September. 

Wilmot's New Early Orleans, IVdmoVs Orleans. This plum is- 
above medram size, of round form ; its sature deep ; of a dark purplish 
hue, covered with a fine bloom : the flesh is greenish yellow, of excellent 
flavour, sweet, combined with a pleasant acid. It is a handsome plum, 
ripening early in August. 

WiNKtouR, Rotherham, of the old gardens. This plum is excellent to 
preserve for sweetmeats ; it is of medium size, oblong form, and of 
dark purple colour : the flesh is yellow, juicy, and of a pleasant acid 
flavour: the fruit is fit for use early in September: the tree is a great 
bearer, and will grow on any soil, .but flourishep most ou hmestone or, 
gravel. 



QUINCE. 
CoiGifAssiER. Cydonia. 

The Quince is of low growth, much branched, and' 
generally crooked and distorted. The Jeaves are roundish, 
or ovate, entire above dusky green, underneath whitish, on 
short petioles. The flowers are large, white, or pale red,, 
and appear in May and June ; the fruit, a pome, varying 
in shape in the diflferent varieties, globular, oblong, or 
oyate ; it has a peculiar and rather disagreeable smell, and 
austere taste. The fruit takes its name from being a 
native of the ancient town of Cydon, in the Island of Crete ; 
some suppose it to be a corruption of Mains cotonea^ 
by which the Latins designated the fruit. It is used as a 
marmalade for flavouring apple pies, and making an excel- 
lent sweetmeat ; and it has the advantage over many other 
fruits for keeping, if properly managed. 

Of the several sorts, the following are in greatest esteem :. 
1. The oblong,, or Pear Quince, with ovate leaves, and an. 



S44 Q'urNCE. 

oblong fruit lengthened at the base. 9. The Apple Quince) 
witli ovate leaves, and a rounder fruit. 3. The Portugal 
Quince, the fruit of which is more juicy and less harsh than 
the preceding, and therefore the most valuable. It is rather 
a shy bearer, but is highly esteemed, as the pulp has the 
property of assuming a fine purple tint in the course of being 
prepared as a marmalade. 4. The mild or eatable Quince, 
being less austere and astringent than the others. 

The Quince produces the finest fruit when planted in a 
soft moist soil, and rather shady, or at least sheltered 
situation. It is generally propagated by layers, and also by 
cuttings, and approved sorts may be perpetuated by graft- 
ing. In propagating for stocks, nothing more is necessary 
than removing the lower shoots from the layer, so as to 
preserve a clear stem as high as the graft ; but for fruit- 
bearino- trees, it is necessary to train the stem to a rod, till 
it has attained four or five feet in height, and can support 
itself upright. 

When planted in an orchard, the trees may be placed 
ten or twelve feet apart. Tlie time of planting, the modo 
of bearing, and all the other particulars of culture, are the 
same as for the Apple and Pear. The chief pruning they 
require, is to keep them free from suckers, and cut out 
decayed wood. 



RASPBERRY. 

Framboisikk. Rubus, etc. 

There are several species of the Rubus found wild in 
various parts of Asia, Europe, and America, some of which 
have upright stems, others prostrate ; the American Stone 
Bramble, and also the common Blackberry, Dewberry, 
Cloudberry, &>c. are of this family. The Rubus idacuSy or 
common Raspberry, grows spontaneously in the province of 
New Brunswick, and in various parts of the United States, 
but most of the cultivated varieties are supposed to have 
wLginated in England. Loudon, describes the true Rasp- 



RASPBERRr. 34S 

berry as having sterna Mrhich are suftructicose, upriglit, 
rising to the height of several feet, and are biennial in du- 
ration ; but the root is perennial, producing suckers whicb 
ripen and drop their leaves one year, and resume their 
foliage, produce blossom shoots, flower, and fruit, and die 
the next. The leaves are q«iiiate-pinnate ; the flowers come 
in panicles from the extremity of the present year's .shoots ; 
they are white, appear in May and June, and the fruit ripens 
about a fortnight afterwards." 

The fruit is grateful to most palates, as Nature presents 
it, but sugir improves the flavour; accordingly, it is much 
esteemed when made into sweetmeats, and for jams, tarts, 
and sauces. It is fragrant, sub-acid, and cooling; allays- 
heat and thirst. It is much used in distilling. " Raspberry 
syrup is next to the Strawberry, in dissolving the tartar of 
the teeth ; and as, like that fruit, it does n(»t undergo the 
acetous fermentation in the stomach, it is recommended to 
gouty and rheumatic patients." 

Nicol enumerates twenty-three species and varieties of the 
cultivated Raspberry, and twenty-one of the Ruhus ronce^ 053- 
Bramble ; of the latter, is included the American red and 
black Raspberry, and the Long Island and Virginian Rasp- 
berry. The English varieties are, early Small while ; Large 
white ; Large red ; most Large red Antwerp ; Large yellow 
Antwerp; Cane, or smooth-stalked ; Twice-bearing white ; 
Twice-bearing red ; Smootli cane, twice-bearing ; Wood- 
ward's Raspberry. Prince's catalogue contains twenty- 
seven names, amongst which are, Brentford red ; Brentford 
white ; Flesh-coloured ; Barnet red, fine ; Pennsylvania ; 
Cretan red ; Prolific red ; Canada purple rose-flowering, &c. 

The varieties can be perpetuated by young sucker shoots, 
rising plenteously from the root in Spring and Summer; 
when these have completed one season's growth, they are 
proper to detach with roots for planting, either in the 
Autumn of the same year, or the next Spring, in March or 
early in April. These new plants will bear some fruit the 
first year, and furnish a succession of strong bottom •shoots 
for full bearing the second season. New varieties are raised 
from seed, and they come into bearing the second year^ 



346 STBAWBERRY. 

Raspberry beds are in their prime about the third and 
fourth year ; and, if well managed, continue in perfection 
five or six years, after which they are apt to decline in 
growth, and the fruit to become small, so that a successive 
plantation should be provided in time. Select new plants 
from vigorous stools in full perfection as to bearing. Be 
careful to favour the twice bearers with a good mellow soil, 
in a sheltered situation, in order that the second crop may 
come to perfection. 

When Raspberries are cultivated on a large scale, it is 
best to plant them in beds by themselves, in rows from three 
to five feet apart, according to the kinds. In small gardens, 
they may be planted in detached stools, or in single rows, in 
different parts of the garden, from the most sunny to the 
most shady aspect, for early and late fruit of improved growth 
and flavour. It is requisite to cut out the dead stems early 
in the Spring, and to thin and regulate the successional 
young shoots ; at the same time, the shoots retained should 
be pruned at the top, below the weak bending part, and 
some rotten dung worked in, around the roots of the plants. 
Keep them clear of weeds during the Summer, by hoeing 
between the rows ; at the same time eradicate all super- 
fluous suckers, but be careful to retain enough for stock in 
succeeding years. 



STRAWBERRY. 

Fraisieb. Fragaria. 

This is a genus of fruit-bearing herbaceous plants, of 
which tliere are few in the vegetable kingdom that can 
equal the Strawberry in wholesomeness and excellence. 
The fruit is supposed to receive its name from the ancient 
practice of laying straw between the rows, which keeps the 
ground moist and the fruit clean. They are natives of tem- 
perate, or cold climates, as of Europe and America. The 
fruit, though termed a berry, is, in correct botanical lan- 
guage, a fleshy receptacle, studded with seeds. Jt is univcN 



BTRAWBERRt. 34t 

sally grateful alone, or with sugar, cream, or wine, and has 
the property, so valuable for acid stomachs, of not under- 
going the acetous fermentation. Physicians concur in 
placing Strawberries in their small catalogue of pleasant 
remedies ; as having properties which render them, in most 
conditions of the animal frame, positively salutary ; they 
dissolve the tartareous incrustations of the teeth ; they pro- 
mote perspiration. Persons afflicted with the gout, have 
found relief from using them very largely ; so have patients 
in case of the stone ; and Hoffman states, that he has 
known consumptive people cured by them. The bark of 
the root is astringent." 

In cultivating the Strawberry, an open situation and 
rich loamy soil, rather strong, is required for most varieties ; 
and from their large mass of foliage and flowers, they must, 
till the fruit is set, have copious supplies of water. The 
row culture is best calculated to produce fruit; and fre- 
quent renewal insures vigorous plants, as well as large fruit. 
Some make beds of single rows, from twelve to eighteen 
inches apart, according to the sorts ; others form a bed with 
two rows eighteen inches asunder. If several beds be in- 
tended, a space of two feet may be left between each bed as 
a path ; and in the second or third season, the paths may 
be manured and dug, to admit of the runners taking root ; 
by this means, a renewal may be made so often, and the 
old stools being taken away, leaves spaces between the beds 
as before. Or, new plantations may be made every season ; 
because after the roots are fairly established, they multiply 
spontaneously, as well by suckers from the parent stem, 
as by the numerous runners ; all of which, rooting and 
forming a plant at every joint, require only removal to a 
spot where there is room for them to flourish. If taken 
ofi^, and planted in rows in August and September, they 
will produce fine fruit the following season, and will bear 
in full perfection the second Summer ; some, however, 
prei'er Spring planting, which anstvers very well, if done in 
damp weather. 

A plantation of the Alpine yields fruit the same year 
that it is made. The Wood and the Alpine come regularly 



•3-48 STKAWBEURY. 

from seed, from which finer fruit may be prodoced than 
from offsets. The other species are uniformly propagated 
by offsets, except the intention be to try for new varieties. 
The Alpine and Wood species may be planted in situations 
rather cool and shady, in order that they may produce their 
fruit late in the season, which is desirable. The Strawberry, 
with a little trouble of clioosing a succession of sorts, may 
be forced so as to be had at the dessert every month in the 
year ; though, during the Winter months, they have not 
much flavour. 

Some gardeners lay straw an inch or two thick over their 
l3eds in March, and set fire to it, in order to promote a 
stocky growth of plants and early fruit ; others reccomraend 
mowing off the tops of such as are not required to fruit early^ 
while they are in blossom, with a view to obtain a crop of 
Strawberries late in the season. 

The London Horticultural Catalogue contains the names 
of one hundred and tvventy-one varieties of all the species; 
which are classed according to tlieir nature, colour, «Stc. 
Class 1. Scarlet Strawberries ; 2. Black Strawbenies ; 3. 
Pine Strawberries; 4. Chili Strawberries; 6. Hautbois 
Strawberries ; 6. Green Strawberries ; 7. Alpine and Wood 
Strawberries. To select all the most esteemed from this, 
or any other extensive catalogue, is a difficult task ; the 
following description of species and varieties may serve to 
direct the choice : 



The Wood Strawberry, Fragaria vesea, with oval serrated leaves : the 
fruit red, white, and green, which is round and smaH. A native of 
Britain, 

The Scarlet, Fragaria Virginiana, with leaves like the preceding: t!ie 
fruit roundish and scarlet-coloured. A native of Virj^inia. Varieties — 
Jlethven Scarlet, Knighi'i Scarlet, Austrian Scarlet, Early Scailet, Wil- 
mot's late, Common late, Wilmot's Early Scarlet, &c. 

The Riseberry, Fragaria Virg. var. An Aberdeen seedling, intro- 
duced in 1810. The plants have few roundish leaves, larger fruit than 
the scarlet, and are very prolific: continues bearing till August. 

The Black var. Downton, Dark Scarlet Strawberry, originated by Mr. 
Knight. The fruit is large, irregular, and cockscomb-like: plant hardy 
and .prolific. 

The Carolina, Fragaria CaroUnensis, colour dark red : a native of 



STRAWBEHRy. 349 

America. Theie are several choice varieties ef this fruit as — Elton's 
Seedling, Keen's Seedling, Mulberry, Wilmot's Black Imperial, 6lood 
Pine, North's Seedlinir, Knevet's Seedling, &c. 

The Musky, or Haulbols, Fragaria elatier, with oval rough javelin- 
edged leaves. A native of Britain. Varieties — Black Hautbois, Globe 
Hautbois, Double or Twice Bearing, producing delicious fruit in Spring 
and Autumn. 

The Chili, Fragaria Chiliensis, with large, oval, thick, hairy leaves, 
End large flowers : the fruit large and very firm : a native of South 
America. Wilmot's Superb, or Large Cockscomb Scarlet, and Green- 
well's New Giant, are highly esteemed varieties. 

Keen's Imperial, or New Chili, Fragaria Chili- var. raised by Mr. Keen, 
of Isieworth, a most excellent bearer, ripening early. The fruit is very 
large ; the flesh firm and solid, without any separable core : colour scarlet. 

The Alpine, or Prolific, Fragaria collina, commonly lasts from Juno 
till November, and in mild seasons, till near Christmas : the varieties of 
this fruit are red and white. Natives of the Alps of Europe. 

The one-leaved, Fragaria monophylla, the pulp of the fruit, pir.k- 
coloured. A native of South America. 

The Grove Etui Scarlet Strawberry, a seedling raised by Wm. Atkinson, 
Esq. in his garden at Grove End, Marylcbone, in the year 1820 ; an excel- 
lent bearer, ripening its berries early and in succession. 

All the species ai^d varieties of this fruit are highly esti- 
mated in Britain, where they are cultivated in great per- 
fection. Berries have been known to weigh from one to two 
ounces, which have been grown to the circumference of 
eight inches and upwards. It mny be gratifying to the 
lovers of this excellent fruit, to be informed that some of the 
best kinds are attainable here. Messrs, Prince & Sons, and 
Mr. Floy, have some of the choicest kinds in their nurseries ; 
and one of our patriotic fellow-citizens, the late Jesse Buel, 
Esq., of Albany, informed us in the Albany Argus, of 
Jane 23, 1830, that he had grown the Downton, (a variety 
of the Chili, crossed by Mr. Knight,) two years in succes- 
sion, 4f inches in circumference. — He said, that '* he picked 
a pailful that morning of the Methven Scarlet Strawberry, 
which had an average circumference of three inches each. 
Several measured four inches, and one four and a quarter 
inches. Sixty-three, divested of the calyx, weighed a pound, 
which is a trifle more than four to the ounce." Several of 
the choicest kinds have been lately transplanted from the 
London Society's Garden into the American Nurseries. 

30 



5f50 
WALNUT. 

NoYER. Juglans. 

From the circumstance of our having an abundance of 
the fruit, from the many species of this genus of trees grow- 
ing spontaneously around us, it is presumed that the culture 
of the Juglans regia, commonly called English Walnut, or 
Madeira Nut, has been neglected by many of our citizens. 
It is a native of Persia, and is cultivated in France, England, 
and in other parts of Europe, both as a fruit and timber 
tree. The fruit in England is much used in a green ^tate 
for pickling, and also as an adulteration of soy sauce. lii 
France, an oil which supplies the place of that of Almonds, 
is made from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gratings 
of old and hard nuts, first peeled, into their tarts and other 
meats. The leaves strewed on the groivnd, and left there, 
annoy worms or moles, or macerated in warm water, afford 
a liquor which will destroy them. The unripe fruit is used 
in medicine for the purpose of destroying worms in the 
human body. Pliny says, " the more Walnuts one eats, 
with the more ease will he drive worms out of the stomach." 
The timber is considered lighter, in proportion to its 
strength and elasticity, than any other, and therefore com- 
monly used in England for gun stocks. It is used in 
cabinet work in most parts of Europe ; the young timber is 
allowed to make the finest coloured work, but the old to be 
finest variegated for ornament. When propagated for 
tinxber, the nut is sown ; but when fruit is the object, 
inarching from the branches of fruit-bearing trees, is prefer- 
able. Budding is also practised by soMie ; the buds succeed 
best when taken from the base of the annual shoots ; - 
ordinary sized buds from the upper part of such shoots 
generally fail, 

Walnut trees that have not been grafted or budded, may 
be induced to produce blossoms by ringing the bark, that is, 
cutting out a streak of the bark around the body or main 
branches of the tree. Walnut trees seldom yield much fruit 
until fifteen or twenty years old ; it is produced on the 



WALNUT. 851 

extremities of the preceding year's shoots. The trees 
should stand forty or fifty feet apart, and they may be 
permitted to branch out in their natural order. They need 
but little pruning, merely to regulate any casual disorderly 
growth, to reduce over-extending branches, and to prune up 
the low stragojlers. 

Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected or 
abandone.d by any, I annex a description of the different 
kinds : 

Juglans catharticuSf is known under the name of Butter- 
nut, Oilnut, and white Walnut ; these nuts are used by the 
Indians as a medicine. 

Juglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large size ; 
its fruit is known to be excellent. 

Juglans olivaiformis, Pecan, or Illinois nut, is delicious. 
The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called thick shell 
bark. Hickory, and Springfield, and Gloucester nut, are 
large and well-tasted. The shell bark Hickory, shag 
bark, or scaly bark Hickory, Juglans alba, is so called on 
account of its bark, which is torn lengthwise in long loose 
strips, as in /. sulcata. The Juglans tormentosa, the Mucker 
nut, white heart Hickory, or common Hickory, and most of 
the other kinds enumerated, are worth preserving ; or culti- 
vating where there is none, for its timber for mechanical 
purposes; and that of the Jiiglans glabra, or Hog nut, i$ 
Mseful for brooms, &e. 



g52r 



AS INFLUENCED BY 



CHANGES OF THE MOON. 



Lest the reader should judge, from my introducing thi» 
subject, that I am an advocate for Moon-planting, in any 
other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the 
weather to the influence of that great luminary, I would 
here offer a few observations in reference to the practice 
and prejudices of many persons in choosing the first quarter 
of the Moon for planting such vegetables as yield their 
produce above the surface, as Cabbage, &c. and the last 
quarter or wane of the Moon for such as grow and yield 
their produce chiefly in the earth, and below the surface, as 
Potatoes, &c. 

I would first observe, that if the Moon has any direct 
intiuence over vegetable productions, it must operate i» 
many cases quite the reverse to what these theorists gene- 
rally aim at ; for instance, if the earth and weather should 
happen to be dry in the first week after planting certain 
species of seed, such wouldfail to germinate for want of its 
most essential aliment, moisture ; and in consequence of 
8uch seeds laying dormant in the earth, until after another 
change of the Moon, if that luminary influences the seed at 
all, in such case it must be contrary to the objects of the 
honest planter. 

As I deem this argument alone suflicient to shake the 
foundation of Moon-planting, in the sense I have described, 
I shall at once submit to the reader's attention, the following 
observations, and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated 
Dr. Adam Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be 
taken to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not 
operate in all places alike. For example, in rainy seasons, 
with us, the wind is generally East, North-East or South-. 
East, and cold weather comea by a North-West wind. la 
England, where these calculations were made, it is in som^. 
inspects different. 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 353 

" From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little 
farm which I was taught to care for and cultivate ever since 
1 was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the 
sickle, or handle the spade, and as I found that much of our 
success depended on a proper knowledge and management 
of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight 
years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science, 
and one of the first th".t is studied ; and that every child in 
the country makes untaught, some progress in it; at least, 
so it was with me. I had actually learned,^ by silent obser- 
vation, to form good conjectures concerning the coming 
weather, and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who 
were perfect, especially among those who had not been 
obliged, like me, to watch earnestly; that what was so 
necessary to the famili/ support should not be spoiled by the 
weather before it was housed. 

Many a time, even in tender youth, have I watched the 
heavens with anxiety, examined the different appearances of 
the morning and evening Sun, the phases of the Moon, the 
scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds, 
the flight of the crow and swallow, the gambols of the colt, 
the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the 
seamew — not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs. 
From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa- 
tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations 
in reference to the coming days, and was seldom much mis- 
taken in my reckoning. 

About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the work 
of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, professing 
to perform .prognostics of the weather, by the times of 
change, full and quarters of the moon. I have carefully 
consulted this table for years, and waa amazed at its general 
accuracy ; for though long as you have seen, engaged in the 
study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could 
be devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a 
little alteration in the arrangements, illustrated it with fur- 
ther observations, and have sent it to you that you may 
insert it, as it has hitherto been confined generally to a few 
almanacs." 

30* 



334^ 



Em telling the Weatlier through all the Lunations of each year, for eter^ 



This table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many yeart 
actual observation ; the whole being constructed on a due consideration 
of the attraction of the sun and moon, in iheir several positions respect- 
ing the earth, and will by simple inspection, show the observer what 
kind of weather will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into 
any of its quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never 
found to fail. 



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355. 



INTRODUCTION 



MONTHLY CALEXDAR- 



The object of this Calendar is to furnish in a condensed 
form, monthly directions for the culture of some plants not 
previously mentioned in this work ; and also to direct the 
reader's attention to the regular management of such plants 
as have been heretofore treated of. In pursuit of the 
latter object, references will be made to former pages, so as 
to exhibit, at one view, the business of the garden in each 
month of the year. The figures refer to the pages in which 
further directions may be found relative to the operations 
adverted to. 

IiKpage 23 it has been shown, that the directions accom- 
panying our catalogue may be applied to all the varied cli- 
mates of the United States, by a minute observance of the 
diflerence of temperature. 

It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of 
cultivation three months earlier in the remotest South, than 
in the coldest part of our Northern territory ; the calendar 
tlierefore for March, may be applied to the middle of 
January in the warmest climates, and to the middle of April 
in the coldest; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be 
taken in the Southern States after the three Spring months, 
for the following reasons : 

I. As warm weather South is of longer continuance 
than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables 
denominated tender in page 19, may be made in the open-, 
garden from March to August.. 



^6" MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

2. Extreme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of 
many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, 
Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can 
only be cultivated perfect in Spring and Autumnf the latter 
crops, therefore, should not be planted until August or Sep- 
tember; see note to article Broccoli 41, also 57, 62 and 92. 

3. Many of the half-hardy class, as also those desig- 
nated hardy in our table, may be cultivated throughout the 
Winter months, by forwarding such as are required for 
early Spring use, after the Summer crops are taken off. 
See table, explication, &c., page 19 to 22, also page 103. 

In the Eastern, Western and Middle States, the annexed 
calendar will answer in the order it stands, by applying 
directions to the beginning of the first Spring month, in the 
warmest climates, and to the latter end, in the coldest 
climates, bearing in mind that where Summer is short, the 
main crops must follow the early, in quick succession, with 
a rievv to their maturity before W^inter. 



"Prognostics foretoken most truly some things, 
Of Summers, and Autumns, and Winters, and Springs; 
By them from tlie past we may all ascertain 
The future, respecting the winds and the rain." 



VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

It is customary at this season of the year, Yith all prudent 
aien to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the 
results of their industry throughout the past year, in order to 
make improved arrangements for the future. The mere 
gardener, having no complicated^ accounts to adjust, majp 



MONTHiiY CA^LBKDAR. 337 

occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not n book- 
fieader, he should be a book-keeper, (see page 8,) and he 
should frequently take a survey of his former practices and 
tliose of hi« acquaintances, with a view to improve on every 
thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults writers on 
Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured 
to do in preparing this work for the press ; not adopt 
the mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative 
ideas, nor even tread in the steps of others, but endeavour 
to erect his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foun- 
dation. In all his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow 
tlie example of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures, 
cue consult any authors on the subject, he should d6 as every 
sensible man does at his daily meals, take that whi6h suits 
him best, and leave the residue for others. If this 
work should be considered worth an annual perusal, he may 
read the general remarks in this month, (January,) and 
make a memorandum of such things as may be obtained at 
a leisure time, in preference to driving it off till it is Avanted- 
I shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to 
the book, and in pursuit of my objetit, shall begin at page 
1 of the general remarks, which suggests, that if a man has 
a garden to form, he will require fencing materials. If these 
sliould be already at hand, every gardener should provide 
manures, ingredients for tlie destruction of insects, drilling 
machines, and other tools ; poles or rods for the support of 
such Beans, Peas, or other climbing plants which he may 
intend to cultivate ; and if he intend to use hot-beds, or 
forcing frames, he sht)uld make arrangements to get compost 
and heating materials, in time for the work to be performed 
in the next month. If he depends on this book for infor- 
mation, he may read the general remarks from page 7 to 
33, and also from pages 101 to 120, on Forcing Vegetables* 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

Having shown in page 217, that Heat, Air, and Water, are 
tjie food of plants, and necessary to the preservation of 
their health and life, if given, in due proportion aqcoridi}!^ 



358 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [January. 

to circumstances, I would, at this season of the year, 
especially, salute the gardener with a "be ye temperate in 
all things." 

Temperance in the use of water, is of the utmost impor. 
tance in the Winter season, for several reasons which may 
be given. In the first place, water will attract frost, and, 
therefore, should be used very sparingly in frosty weather j 
another consideration is, that in the absence of heat and 
air, plants cannot absorb much moisture, and consequently 
must become injured from excessive watering ; and it may 
be observed further, that it is not prudent to keep plants in 
an extremely vigorous state, until the season arrives when 
the external air is soft and salubrious ; they can then have 
a due proportion of heat, air, and moisture at the same time- 
Perhaps the next important point to be attended to at 
this time is, to see that the greenhouse, or room, in which 
plants are intended to be preserved, is calculated for the 
purpose. The room should be light and airy, and yet so 
secui'e as to prevent the intrusion of external cold air, or the 
departure of warm air in the night season. 

A Fahrenheit thermometer is indispensable in a greett^ 
house, or room, where plants are kept, and the temperature 
should be always up as nearly as possible to 40 degrees, in 
the absence of the Sun. If the gardener retire to rest in this 
variable climate, leaving the mercury much below 40, he 
may expect to find his plants frozen in the morning. 

A good brick flue is better calculated for heating a small 
greenhouse, than any other method ; because after a suffi- 
cient fire has been made to heat the bricks thoroughly, they 
will retain the heat through a Winter night, whereas an 
iron stove with its metal pipes will cool as the fire gets low, 
and expose the plants to cold, towards morning, which is 
the time they most need protection. The heat from iron is 
moreover too dry and parching, while an evaporation or 
salubrious steam may be raised from bricks, by sprinkling 
the flue occasionally, which would operate on the plants 
similar to healthful dew drops. 

At this season of the year especially, sitting-rooms, o? 
parlours, are heated in the daytime to full 30 degreer* 



[Pebruari/. monthly calendar. 369 

higher than what is necessary for the preservation of plants ; 
consequently, as the heat decreases in the niglit season, 
plants often get injured, unless a fire is kept up. Air must 
be admitted to plants kept in this way, at all opportunities; 
and more water will be necessary for such plants, than 
those kept in a greenhouse would require. For the manage- 
ment of bulbous roots, in pots or glasses, the reader is 
referred to page 212. 



"A cold sour Autumn, they sternly maintain, 
A long severe Winter will bring in its train ; 
If Summer and Autumn be both dry and warm, 
Calm opens the Winter, — it closes in storm." 



VEGETABLE DEPARTMKNT. 

Although Stern Winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts 
its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment 
preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and 
planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most impor- 
tant business at this season, is to collect plenty of manure ; 
next to this, the gardener, who intends to raise early plants 
for forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames 
are in good repair and ready for use ; he should also repair 
his sashes, and make straw mats to cover them with. In 
preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds, or 
forcing pits, let it be kept secure from heavy falls of snow or 
rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to its being 
made into a bed. 

Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is 
well protected by a close fence or wall, and not in any Way 
connected with any building calculated to harbour rats, 
mice, moles, <S6C., which are very apt to take up their abode 
in warm dung, to the great injury and sometimes tlie 
destruction of the beds. It is necessary that the founda- 
tion for the beds be drily situated, and not liable to be inun- 
dated with water from melted snow, <fec. When all is pre- 
pared as directed, page 101 to 106, begin to sow Cabbage, 



■^eO MONTHLY CALENDAR. [Februcrif. 

Egg-plant, Lettuce, andToasato seed, 101 ; force Asparagus, 
105; Kidney Beans, 107 ; Cucumbers, 109 ; plant Peas, 120 ; 
Potatoes, 121 ; sow Radish seed, 121. In cold beds well 
protected, plant Broad Beans, 107; sow Cabbage seed, 45. 

After the seeds are sown, the beds will require constant 
attention; cover up well in cold nights, and give air at all 
opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds, 
as directed under'the different heads, from page 102 to 125. 
If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed, 
page 105, and if it should become necessary to let off steam 
in cold weather, care must be taken to cover the apertures 
sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all oppor- 
tunities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such othe* 
plants as may be in frames, of last year's sowing. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

Having in tlie previous month discussed some important 
points relative to the general care of plants, I now proceed 
to notice a few of those kinds that require attention at this 
particular season : 

Camellias, or Japan Roses. — There are numerous 
varieties of this valuable class of plants, exhibiting every 
•shade in succession, from desp crimson to the purest white ; 
in some imperceptibly blended, in others strikingly con- 
trasted. They are unrivalled objects of beauty from 
October to May, being set in a foliage of fine glossy verdure* 

Double Camellias are generally propagated on stocks of 
the single, which are procured by planting cuttings of the 
young shoots in light mould under bell glasses ; on these, 
when grown to a sufficient size, are inarched the finer kinds 
of double. Sometimes these latter are also struck by cut- 
tings ; but as their progress by such method is generally 
slow and uncertain, it is seldom resorted to. These valuable 
plants are too often injured by amateurs, from misapplied 
care bestowed upon them, so that their whole compensation 
and enjoyment is reduced to the mere possession of a hand- 
some green shrub. Destined from the extreme beauty and 
unrivalled delicacy of their flowers to become the chief pride 



PebmaryJ] monthly calendar. 361 

and ornament of the greenhouse and drawing-room in the 
Winter season, the Camellias should have a fair chance 
given them to exhibit their fine bloom in perfection. 

It should be observed, that Camellias are by no means 
tender shrubs, but require to be kept in a medium even 
temperature, and they generally succeed best in a green- 
house, vrhere the atmosphere is damp. As the buds begin 
to swell, they will require more water than at any other 
time, which ; ay be applied from the rose of a watering pot, 
or syringe, while in bud, but when in blossom it should be 
applied to the earth. 

If Camellias be kept where there is a dry air, occasioned 
from fire heat, they must have plenty of the natural air at 
all opportunities, or the buds will become brown and fall 
off; and if they are subjected to extreme cold at night, 
which is too frequently the case, when kept in rooms of an 
uneven temperature, premature decay of the buds will 
inevitably be the consequence. 

To preserve Camellias in healthy condition, they should 
be kept in fresh, moderately light soil, consisting of sandy 
loam taken from under grass sods, and leaf mould well 
mixed ; nothing being more injurious to them than over- 
potting ; they should not be shifted into larger pots, until 
the projection of the roots show evidently that they are in 
•need of it. Few plants bear privation of sunshine in Sum- 
mer better than these ; they should, however, be kept in an 
open situation, where they can have a full share of light 
and air. 

Such bulbous roots as may be in progress of blooming, 
will require attention this month ; turn them frequently to 
the light, as recommended in page 212, and increase the 
supplies of water as they advance towards perfection. 

Attend to Campanula Pyramidalisy Hepeticas, Mimu- 
lus, Senecios, and herbaceous plants in general ; those 
not in bud should be watered very sparingly. Shrubby 
plants, especially those which bud and blossom in the Win- 
ter, and early part of the Spring, as the several varieties of 
Acacias, Azeleas, Calceolarias, Correas, Coronillas, Daph- 
nes, Diosmas, Eupatoriums, Eutaxias, Fuchsias, Gnidias, 

31 



362 MONTHLr CALENt)AKi [Fet/ruory. 

Heaths, Laurustinuses, Lemon trees, Rhododendrons, 
Orange trees, &,c., will requh-e water once or twice a week, 
according to circumstances, and air should be given at all 
opportunities, or the plants will not blossom in perfection. 

For the benefit of such as may wish to raise early plants 
from seed, or to force Dahlia or other roots, I subjoin the 
following brief directions for making a small hot-bed : In a 
border exposed to the morning sun, let a pit be dug about 
thirty inches deep, five feet wide, and six long ; this will 
admit of two sashes, each three feet by fivcb A frame of 
suitable dimensions may be made of plank ; the back plank 
may be two feet wide, and the end ones sloped so as to 
make a fifteen inch plank do for the front. Tlie frame 
being made, set it ov^r the pit, and then get a load of horse 
dung, fresh from the livery stables, (not such as has Iain 
long, or may have been soddened with water^) spread the 
dung evenly in the pit until full, then put into the frame 
light rich mould, or compost, to the depth of ten or twelve 
inches, and the seed may be sown as soon as it gets warm. 
It may be necessary to observe, that in making hot-beds, 
the quantity of top mould should be regulated according to 
the substance of manure in the pit, and this may vary 
according to the use the beds are intended for, or to other 
circumstances. After the sefids are sown, the beds will 
require constant attention ; cover up warm in cold nights, 
and give air at all opportunities, to prevent the plants from 
growing weak. 

As we SLXe subject to North-West winds at this season, 
which produce extreme freezing, it will be better to delay 
the making of hot-beds to the first week in March, at which 
time opportunities will frequently ofler of giving plants a 
tolerable share of salubrious air, which is indispensable to 
their preservation. * 

FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 

With a view to give all attention to culture as the season 
advances, the gardener should look over his hardy fruit trees, 
and hardy vines, and commence pruning them, by cutting 



March] MONTHLY Ci.lBNDAB. 363 

off all dead and superfluous branches ; he may also clean 
trees from moss and canker, and search for the nests of 
insects, with a riew to destroy them while in a torpid state, 
to prevent their spreading, 246. If he has trellises, or any 
implements of husbandry out of repair, he should embrace 
the most favourable opportunities of putting them in good 
condition, and of repairing his fences, &c. 

The latter end of this month is a good time to prune 
grape vines, 252. 

Provide shreds or strips of woollen cloth about half an 
inch wide, or list from broad cloth, which is still better, also 
small sharp pointed lath nails to use in training fruit trees, 
&;c., next month. 

If any removals are contemplated, or fresh trees, vines, or 
shrubs required, they should be planted as soon as the ground 
can be brought into good condition. 241. 311. 319 and 367- 



Ea^B©Ma 



■"If the Sun appear dim, surrounded with haze, 
And his disk ill defined, and faded his rays: — 
If white at his setting — of power if shorn, 
The signs are all certain, there'll soon be a storm." 



VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

This month affords considerable employment to an. 
industrious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the ground 
and distributed in heaps, ready to spread, see page 17; and 
the hot-beds and forcing frames will require constant atten- 
tion- Cover up warn^^in cold nights, and give, additional 
air as the season progresses, to prevent the plants growing 
weak, taking care to regulate the heat as directed for the 
different kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are 
to be put down this month, either for forcing or forwarding 
vegetables, they should be attended to in time, as directed. 
Begin the work of the Kitchen garden as soon as the earth can 



364 ' MONTHLY CALENDAn. [MuTcX. 

be brought into good condition,and transplant hardy Lettuce 
plants, 62; dress Artichoke beds, 26; Asparagus, 30; 
Rhubarb, 79 ; Sea-Kale, 83 ; and prepare to make nevr 
plantations of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 31; 
and 107 ;. Rape, 39 ; plant Cauliflower plants under hand 
glasses, 43 and lOS ; sow Cabbage seed, 46 and 101 ; Car- 
rot, 49; Celery, 51; plant Chives, 56; Cucumber, 109; 
»ow Egg-plant seed, 57 ; plant Horse Radish 59 ; Leek, 61 ; 
Lettuce, 62; plant Melon seed, 119; sow Onion, 67 ; Parsley, 
69 ; Parsnip, 70 ; Pepper, 71 ; plant Peas, 72 ; Potatoes, 
121 ; sow Radish seed, 77 and 121 ; plant Rocambolfe, 77 ; 
Rhubarb, 78; Salsify, 80 ; Scorzonera, 81 ; Sea Kale, 82; 
Skirret, 84 ; sow Spinach seed, 86; Tomatoe, 88 and 123; 
Turnip seed, 91 ; prepare to make Hop plantations, 126 • 
Herbs, 94 to 96. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with 
the hardiest kinds; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &C.. 
to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this 
month every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul- 
tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as 
may have lain in ridges through the Winter, and by manur- 
ing and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing 
and planting it early in next Month. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENTo 

As the Spring progresses, the external air will be soft 
and salubrious ; at which time it should be freely admitted 
to plants kept in rooms and greenhouses. In proportion as 
the plants get air, they should have water applied from the 
rose of a watering pot. 

Monthly Roses will require attention this month. It 
should be recollected, that it is from the young wood of these 
plants that buds are to be expected ; their growth should, 
therefore, be encouraged, by admitting sun and air at all 
opportunities, and water when necessary. 

Primulas. — There are several species of plants under 
this name, which exhibit their blossoms in March and April > 
some of which are very beautiful, as the Polyanthus, 
Knglish Spring Flowers, Auricula, &c. ; but I would no^s; 



March.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 365 

direct the reader's attention to the Chinese varieties, some 
of which are pure white, and others of a lilac colour. They 
are first raised from seed sown in the Spring, and will keep 
two or three years. 

Plants that are full grown, will commence blooming in 
December, and continue to produce umbels of flewers for 
five or six months, if well attended to ; they are generally 
in their prime this month, at which time a little water should 
be applied to the earth about twice a week. 

Man}'^ species and varieties of seeds may be sown this 
month in hot beds, prepared as directed under the head 
February. 362. 

Auricula, Polyanthus, and all other species of Primula 
seed, should now be sown. Mignonette, Ten Week Stock, 
and Dahlia seed, from choice varieties, may also be sown 
in pots, and care should be taken when the plants are up, 
tliat they be not injured by excess of moisture. 220. 

There are some splendid varieties of the Schizanthus 
which deserve attention at an early season. They are 
rather difficult of cultivation in pots, being apt to suffer by 
excess of heat or moisture; and often, when in full bloom, 
die off suddenly by decays at the base of the stem. No 
plants will, however, more amply repay all the care and 
trouble that may be bestowed on them, than those of the 
elegant genus Schizanthus. The best soil for them is loam, 
and leaf mould, with a small portion of sand. They 
should be repotted as often as the pots are filled with roots, 
till they come into full flower. 

All the different varieties of tender annual, biennial, and 
perennial flower seeds, designated thus § and thus f in our 
catalogues, pages 136 and 147, may be sown this month in 
hot-beds, or in pots kept in tbe greenhouse. 

Hyacinths, Narcissus, and other bulbs in glasses, must 
have the water shifted every week, and the glasses should 
be thoroughly washed every two orlhree weeks, 213 

Towards the end of the month, roots of Amaryllis for- 
mosissima, Gladiolus psitacinna. Tiger flowers, Tuberoses, 
and such other bulbs as may have been preserved dry 
through the winter, may now be planted in pots and kept 

31* 



366 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [Marck. 

in a greenhouse or light room, or else plunged in a hot bed. 
— Those who have no such conveniences may, however, 
delay the planting of sound bulbs, until the weather will 
admit of their being planted in warm borders. 

Dahlia roots should now be plunged in a hot-bed, to 
forward them, with a view to their being separated, as soon 
as the eyes are discernible. 196. 

FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 

If the weather be mild this month, considerable woi'k 
may be done in the fruit garden and orchard, before the 
ground can be brought into suitable condition for ploughing, 
digging, or planting. 

Prune Grape Vines ; but withhold the knife, until you 
have surveyed the plant, and selected a full supply of the 
last Summer shoots at regular distances from each other, 
for bearers the coming Summer ; cut out the superabundant, 
with part of most of the last year's bearers, and naked 
wood. Prune so that a young shoot terminate each branch, 
and shorten the reserved shoots ; the smallest to three or 
four joints, and the strong ones to ten or twelve. Fasten 
the vines to trellises as soon as pruned, with list, or shreds 
of woollen cloth, arranging the general branches from ten 
to twelve inches distance, more or less, according to the 
size of the vines and space allotted for them to grow. — See 
Observations on Training and Pruning, page 251 ; also, 
article Grape Vine, 293 to 306. 

Prune Apple trees, 265 ; Cherry, 277 ; Pear, 329 ; Plum 
338 ; Gluince, 344 ; also, Currant bushes, 264; Gooseberry, 
292 ; cutting out all crowded branches, worn out bearers 
and decayed wood. 

Cutout and destroy all the old stems of Raspberry shrubs, 
reserve three or four of the strongest young shoots on each 
stool ; shorten them at the top, and take away all others^ 
the strongest of which may be transplanted to form a new 
bed, 346 

In transplanting trees care should be taken that the col- 
lar» or that part from which emanates the main roots, be not 



April-] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 367 

inserted too deep in the soil, as this injures the bark, and 
consequently impedes the natural circulation of the juices. 
A medium sized tree may be planted one inch deeper than 
it was in the nursery bed, and the largest should not exceed 
two or three inches. 241. 311. 319. 337. 

Plant cuttings and suckers of Gooseberries and Currants ; 
also, of such fruit trees as produce them, in order to raise 
stocks to bud and graft upon ; fruit stones and kernels may 
be also sown for the same purpose. 

Young trees, shrubs, and vines may be obtained at public 
nurseries, in different stages of growth, suited for general 
planting ; and others sufficiently advanced for immediate 
bearers ; these should be carefully taken up, and replanted. 
For full information on this subject, the reader is referred 
to the article " on the choice of fruit trees in the nursery,'' 
•259. 



^aiPi^aiLu 



"The state of the loind augurs rain, as they say; — 
When restless in changes, now this, now that way, 
Of hollow, comes whistling plaintively by, 
The rain it betokens is probably nigh." 



VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

This is certainly the most important month in the year 
for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the 
planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the 
same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul- 
terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug or ploughed 
this month if possible, and some of the early crops sown 
last month will require hoeing and weeding. 

Great care should be taken to have good sound seeds, as 
this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of 
which, many are disappointed in their principal crops 
when too late to sow again. It is also a material considera- 
tion to have the best varieties both of seeds and plants o£ 
thte respective kinds. See pages 17 and 18. 



^8 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [April. 

If not done last month, make plantations of Ai'tichokes, 
24; Asparagus, 27; Beans, vicia faba, 31; towards the 
end of the month, plant Beans, Phaseolus, 33 and 34 ; plant 
Beet seed, 36 ; sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 40 ; not 
Cape Broccoli until May ; seed of Cabbage for Summer 
use, 46 ; Cardoon, 48 ; plant Carrot, 49 ; Celery, 50 ; sow- 
Cress seed, 54; plant Cucumber, 112 ; sow Endive, 58; 
plant Horse Radish, 59; plant Indian Corn, 60, Jerusalem 
Artichokes, 60; sow Leek seed, 61; Lettuce seed, 62; 
plant Melon, 119 ; sow Mustard seed, 65 ; plant Nasturtium, 
66 ; sow Onion seed, 67 ; Parsley, 69 ; Parsnip, 70 ; plant 
Peas, 72; Potatoes, 74; Sweet Potatoes, 75; Pumpkins, 
76 ; sow Radish seed, 77 ; plant Rocambole, 77 ; Rhubarb, 
78 ; Salsify, 80 ; Scorzonera, 81 ; Sea-Kale, 82 ; sow Skir- 
ret, 84 ; Spinach, 86 ; plant Squash, 87 ; Tomatoe, 88 and 
101 ; Turnip seed 92 ; Navet or French Turnip, variety escu- 
lenta, 47 ; make Hop plantations, 126, Sow the seeds of 
Aijgelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway, Chervil, 
Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet Mar- 
joram. Patience Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Smallage, 
Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and 
such otlier Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may 
be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of per- 
ennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter 
Savory, Tarragon, and^ Medicinal Herbs in general, as 
described page 94 to 96, If not done last month, attend to 
the Spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 26 ; Asparagus, 30 ; 
Rhubarb, 79 ; Sea-Kale, 83. 

Besides the work of- sowing and planting the various 
kinds of seeds above enumerated, all the strongest plants of 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from tlie 
hot-beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds 
in the open garden. Attend to such other business in this 
department as was left undone last month, and see that the 
garden be kept neat and free from weeds. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

This is the most important month in the year for garden- 
ing operations. If not done towards the end of the last month 



A^riL] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 36& 

the covering must be taken from, hardy flowering plants, 
early in this month, and the beds and borders attended to 
as directed, pages 140 and IS-'S ; at the same time, clip edg- 
ings of box, and clean, relay, or make new gravel walks, 
&-C., 133 ; prune and transplant flowering shrubs, 156 and 
169; transplant also hardy herbaceous plants, 152. 

Sow flower seeds ; the hardiest may be sown in the open 
borders, and the tender in the beds, 141 to 159; 

All the soil of a garden should be dug this month, if pos- 
sible, and pulverized as directed, 141 and 180. 

It will be necessary to look over all the greenhouse plants 
in the early part of this month ; let them be deprived of 
dead wood, if any, by a careful pruning; at tlie same time 
take oft' all yellow leaves ; the earth at the top of the pots 
should be loosened, so as to admit the sun and air to the 
roots of the plants, 217 to 219 

If insects prevail on roses or other plants, a fumigations 
with tobacco will be necessary. 

Bulbous roots will require some attention this month ; 
those in bloom in the garden should be tied up to wires or 
small sticks ; and those kept inside should be watered in 
proportion as they get heat and air. 

The Calla, or Ethiopian Lily, and the different varieties 
of Rhododendro^ns, will need frequent watering while in bud 
and blossom. 

Air must be admitted freely to all greenhouse plants 
towards the end of this month, in order to prepare them, for 
the exposure of the open garden next month. 

For the method of managing Dahlia roots, see 196 ; pre^ 
pare to plant tender bulbous roots, towards the end of this, 
or early in the next month. The following should be for- 
warded in pots, which may be kept in a greenhouse or warm 
ijoom, or they may be plunged in a hot-bed ; Amaryllises, 
183; Gladioluses, 193; Lihes,202; Tuberoses 210; Tiger 
flowers, 211, 

Hydrangeas, Pomegranates, Verbenas, and other decidu-^ 
ous shrubby plants, should be cultivated early in this month 
to promote the production of leaf and flower buds. 

Biei^ai^l seeds, such as Wall-flower^ and Stock Giilj^ 



370 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [ApriT. 

flower ; also all kinds of tender perennials should be sown 
this month, if not previously done in the greenhouse, or in 
hot-beds, 141, 150 and 220. 

For an exhibition of the order of the flowering tribe in 
this month and the next, the reader is referred to an article 
entitled the Beauties of April and May, pages 170 to 178. 

FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 

Finish pruning hardy fruit trees the early part of this 
month, also Apricot, 273 ; Almond, 276 ; Fig, 285 ; Mul- 
berry, 308; Nectarine, 312; Peach, 322; not forgetting 
any other of those trees, vines and shrubs which were left 
undone last month. 

Prepare tlie ground for planting, by digging, trenching, 
aud manuring, either generally or in such particular places 
as are allotted for the trees to be planted in, 240. 

This is the most proper season for planting the Apricot, 
Almond, Fig, Grape, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, and alj 
such fiuit trees, vines, or shrubs as originated in warm 
climates, 241, 31 1,319. Apple, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Quince 
and other hardy fruit trees, may also be planted with safety 
early in this month; but Autumn is considered the most 
favorable season for planting all trees, vines, or shrubs of 
Northern latitude, 242, 337. 

Those who have variety of soil should accommodate all 
the varied kinds of fruit to that which has been proved to be 
the best adapted to its culture ; and due attention should be 
paid to situation and aspect, in planting a fruit garden or 
orchard, 243. 

Use means to destroy insects while in a torpid state, to 
prevent their spreading, and also the larvaj of insects ; direc- 
tions for which will be found in the article headed 
" observations on insects, and diseases to which fruit trees 
are liable," 244. 

Grafting may be performed on fruit trees in general 257; 
Prune and plant Currant bushes, 284; Filbert, 287; 
Gooseberry, 292; Raspberry, 345. Plant cuttings and 
suckers from these shrubs; also of such trees as produce 



May.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



37t 



them, in order to get a supply of stocks to bud and graft 
upon, as well as some for bearing. Fruit stones and ker- 
nels of various kinds may be sown for the same purpose. 

This is a good season to plant cuttings of Grape Vines, 
296 and 300 ; and tender varieties that were lain down in 
Autumn, should be taken up, and fastened to trellises or 
stakes, 299. 

Strawberry beds that were protected with leaves or litter 
throuo-h the Winter, should be uncovered, and the plants 
carefully cultivated ; some lay straw over their beds, an inch 
or two thick, and set fire to it, 348. 

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be 
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. 
Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &:.c. near fruit trees, 
and sow ashes over the ground. 248, 310. 



"Much dew on the grass, portends as all say, 
That day which succeeds will be a clear day ; 
But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain, 
Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain." 

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

Throughout this month attend to plantations of Cabba- 
ges, Cauliflower, &.c. hoe them frequently, and loosen earth 
around their stems ; look out for and destroy grub worms, 
caterpillars, and other insects, 12 to 14 ; thin out tlie early 
plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and 
destroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant 
and sow such kinds of seeds as were omitted last month, 
and transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoe, Egg-plants, &c. 
from the hot-beds and warm boi'ders. Plant Beans, 33 and 
34 ; Beet, 36 ; sow Borecole, 37 ; Brussels Sprout seed, 38 ; 
Cape Broccoli, 40; Cauliflower, 44; Cabbage seed, 46 ; 
Carrot, 49 ; Cress, 54 ; plant Cucumbers, 55 ; sow Endive 
seed, 58 ; plant Indian Corn, 60 ; Melon 63 ; Water Melon, 
64; sow Mustard seed, 65; plant Nasturtium, 66 ; Okra, 
66 ; Pepper, 71 ; plant Peas, 72 ; Potatoes, 74 ; Potatoe 
Sweet, 75; Pumpkins, 76; sow Radish seed, 77; plant 



372 MONTHLY CALENDAR- [^Oy. - 

New Zealand Spinach, 87; Squash,87; Tomatoe,88. Early 
in this month, finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, Pot, 
Sweet and Medicinal Herbs, 95 to 96. Some of the old 
hot-beds may be spawned for Muslirooms, but it is best to 
form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week, and 
gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and 
put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare fresh 
spawn, &c. 1 14 to 118. " 

Watering will now be frequently required to newly planted 
vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion- 
ally afterwards in dry weather, until the roots are estab- 
lished in the soil. Likewise seed beds recently sown, till 
the young plants become vigorous. 

Weeding must be very diligently attended to, both by 
hand and hoe ; for as weeds grow luxuriantly it is neces- 
sary to eradicate them, before they spread too far, as by 
neglect, they will not only impede the growth of, but eventu- 
ally smother the plants. 

Towards the end of the month, top such of the English 
Broad Beans as may be in blossom, to promote the swelling 
of the puds, as well as their early maturity. — See page 32. 

Those who have young families should not fail sowing 
some Bene plant seed, as the plant by being plunged in a 
glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an 
efficacious remedy for Summer complaints. It may be 
sown in drills and managed the same as Salad or Parsley. 
See herbs, 95. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be 
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. 
Burn tobacco leaves in the greenhouse, so as to fumigate 
the plants well, before they are removed into the open gar- 
den ; and such plants as may show any indications of being 
infested with the eggs of insects, should be sponged with 
soap-suds, and afterwards well syringed and watered. 
Frequent sprinkling from the rose of a watering-pot, will 
prevent insects from accumulating ; especially if the water 



[May. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 373 

be impregnated with tobacco, by a bag of the leaves being 
steeped therein a few hours previous to using it. 

Choice Geraniums will need attention this month, in 
order that they may exhibit their flowers to advantage. 
When in full bloom, care should be taUen not to wet the 
foliage 01 flowers, but this may be done freely befurc the 
buds are expanded. 

If awaiiiirs were not provided last month, for the protec- 
tion of choice flowers, it should be attended to early in this 
month, 184, 200, and 210 ; Plant Amary Rises, 184 ; Double 
Dahlias, 196 and 197; Gladioluses, 199; Lilies, 203; 
Tuberoses 210; Tiger flowers, 211 ; ^ow annual, biennial, 
and perennial flower seeds in the open borders^ 140 to 150. 
Attend to the walks, edgings, &c. and see that tall plants are 
neatly lied to sticl>s, wires, or stakes, 133, 139, 197 and 200. 
Procure and plant such perennial plants as may be neces- 
sary to make variety in the flowerbeds, 151 and 152. 

Greenhouse plants may be set out about the middle of 
■the month, and it should be done in cloudy weather, in 
order that they may be prepared gradually for the shining 
of the sun upon them. A situation, exposed to the sun for 
only one half of the day, is preferable for most plants, 
especially if they can be shaded at noon 153. 

Many plants, such as Coronillas, Heaths, Aucubas, 
Myrtles, Oleanders, and several other sorts, are subject lu 
be infested with white and brown scaly insects ; if these 
cannot be effectually taken from the plants by washing 
and sponging, let the plants be headed down early in the 
month ol May, and ifthey are well attended to, new branches 
wiil shoot out on the old stem. 

Such, Orange trees as were budded hist July or August 
should also be headed down early in this month. 

Auriculas, Polyanthus and Daisies, should be separated 
into single tufts, and planted in a shady border for increase, 
•as soon as they have done blossoming. 

Such Carnations as may have been wintered in frames 
should now be exposed to the open air, in the flower borders. 

Tulips, which will be in full perfection by the middle of 
this month, will require constant attention. 

32 



374 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [May, 

Such greenhouse plants as may have done blossoming 
may be pruned this month, and if the cuttings be planted at 
this time they will strike freely. 

Cuttings of Salvia splendens and fulgens, will produce 
strong plants for blossoming in August, if planted early in 
this month, 232. Chrysanthemum cuttings should now be 
put down, and the suckers divided, and planted singly in the 
borders, or in pots, for flowering in the Autumn, 220. 

FRUIT DEI'AETMENT. 

Finish planting trees, vines, and shrubs as early in this 
month as possible ; those planted last month should be kept 
watered in dry weather, and stakes should be applied to such 
as may be exposed to the wind, 311, 319 and 337. 

jc'inish grafting early in this month, 257. Apples, Pears, 
and other late shooting kinds may still succeed. 

Strawberry beds may be made this month, and if the 
transplanting is well done, and the plants frequently 
watered, they will produce some fruit this year, and a plen- 
tiful supply the next season. The Methven Scarlet, and 
Mulberry or Pine, are large and yield plentifully. Kean's 
seedling, and also the Downton are of superior flavour. The 
Elton, seedling, Southborough seedling, Myatt's seedling, 
and Bishop's orange, are in great repute where cultivated. 
The Wood and the Alpine Strawberry will produco finer 
fruit from seed sown in the Spring than from offsets. For 
mode of planting, &c., see article page 346. 

If frost prevail wheil fruit trees are in blossom, those 
trained on trellises or against walls and fences, may be pro. 
tected by hanging matting or sheets of tow cloth over them ; 
some defend them by sticking bunches of evergreens 
between the branches, as cedar, laurel, pine, &.c. The object 
in doing this, is not so much to keep out the frost, as to 
break off'the sun's rays in tlie morning after a frosty night ; 
see page 41, also flower department for December. 

Propagate Fig trees, by layers, cuttings, suckers, and by 
grafting, 286. 



Jane.'l honthlt calenbar. 375 

If any webs or larvae of insects appear on the leaves of 
fruit trees and vines, pluck off and destroy such leaves 
before the insects become quickened, which may be a 
means of preventing any depredation to the advancing 
leaves and buds. In large fruit gardens and orchards 
means should be used to destroy insects by fumigation, 
washing, &c. See observations on insects, and diseases to 
which fruit trees are liable, page 244. 

Divest young budded and grafted trees of all shoots from 
the stocks, below the bud or graft, as they appear, also rub 
ofi" all useless buds in early shooting wall trees, as Nectarine, 
Apricots, &c- 274. 



j)a3K][i= 



" The sky dressed in placid soft redness at night, 
Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright ; 
A fierce angry redness that shoots up at morn, 
And tinges the clouds, is a token of storm." 



yEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

The principal sowing seasons for general crops may be 
considered as past, but there are many kinds of seeds which 
may be sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain 
the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any 
deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far 
advanced. By this time, some of the early crops will be 
cleared off, and such ground as was manured for the early 
crops of Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., will be in excellent 
orderfor late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing 
crops, and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from 
running to seed* If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will 
be beneficial. Use means to destroy insects ; read pages 1 1 
to 14 for information on this subject. Plant Kidney 
Beans, 33 and 36 ; Beet seed, 36. If the seedling plants of 
Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, &c. failed last month, sow 
again early this month. Water the beds frequently, and 
fiow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recon*- 



376 , MONTHLY CALENDAR. [JuUC, 

mended, page 12. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &,c. for 
Summer use ; transplant Cardootis, 48 ; sow Carrot seed in 
drills, 49; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 55; sow Endivo 
seed, 58; plant Indian Corn, 60; transplant Leeks, 61 ; 
plant Peas, soak them five or six hours in water, 72 ; plant 
Potatoes, 71 and 75 ; Pumpkin seed, 76 ; sow Summer 
Radish seed, 77. 

As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a 
dry day, and spread in a siiady place to dry for Winter use, 
96. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have 
reached the top, nip off the tops to strengthen the stems, 126. 

Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the 
main top fruit attain its full size, detach the small suckers, 
or lateral heads. — See page 26. 

Early Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing 
towards maturity, must be watered in dry weather, and as 
the heads begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of 
the large leaves over them to protect them from the sudden 
rays of the sun, and from rain, 43. 

Keep Asparagus clear of weeds, and also Onions ; and 
give those beds that are to stand for ripening a final thinning, 
as suggested in page 67. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

The principal sowing season may be considered as past ; 
but if any failures should have happened of former sowings, 
seeds may be sown the early part of this month, which if 
kept watered occasionally, will grow quickly. 

Greenhouse plants will need watering every evening, in 
dry warm weather ; and in the al)sence of dews, some 
sorts may need a little in the morning at sunrise, 218' 
Hydrangeas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, tS.c. should be 
kept shaded from the noonday sun, or they will droop, and 
some may die. Carnations and Pink^ will need frequent 
waterings at the roots, and the branches should be tied 
neatly to rods. 

Such flowering shrubs as may have been planted late in 
tljc Spring season, should be regularljj watered in dry weather. 



June.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 377 

Give frequent waterings to the flower beds, in general ; cut 
down dead flower stalks ; remove decayed plants, and care- 
fully replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery bed. 
Transplant annual flower plants into the regular beds, with 
a small trowel or neat dibble, 145. 

Plant Colchicums, 186; finish planting Dahlias, and pro- 
vide poles for their support, 197 ; water them occasionally 
in dry weather. 

, Many sorts of bulbous roots will be ripe by the end of this 
month ;- these should be taken up, and dried as directed, 
page 181. Those cultivated in pots should not be watered 
after the foliage is decayed, until the period of regerminatiou 
takes place, 182 and 212. 

Nnmerous beautiful flowers exhibit themselves this month, 
some of which are noticed in an article entitled The Beauties 
of April and May, page 170 to 178. There are, however, 
several others worthy of notice, which are omitted in that 
article. The several species of the Phlox are remarkably 
showy plants, and very desirable to cultivate, as they blossom 
in their several varieties the whole season. Besides these 
are all the splendid varieties of Roses, Pinks, Lychnises, 
Sweet Williams, Fox Glove, Snap-dragons, Perennial 
Lupins, Verbenas, Veronicas, Valerians, <fcc. These should 
be all attended to, and their branches should be tied to neat 
stakes, so as to enable them to exhibit their flowers to the 
greatest possible advantage, 147 to 152. 

Dahlias that are intended for blossoming this year, should 
be planted by the middle of this month, if not done before. 

FRtriT DEPARTMENT. 

The principal business of this month in the fruit garden is 
Summer pruning, which is generally performed with the 
finger and thumb, by detaching all superfluous shoots and 
buds ; and also to thin the young fruit of Apricot, Nectarine, 
and other choice trained trees, where it sets too thick or in 
clusters, see pages 274 to 310. 

Newly planted trees should be watered in hot dry weather, 
once or twice a week. 

32* 



378 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. {iJunel 



Cherry trees of the finest sorts may be defended from birds, 
with nets, particulaly those trained as espaliers, 277. 

Currant and Gooseberry shrubs of choice late varietiesj 
trained as espaliers or standards, if very crowded with shoots 
of tlie year, should be pruned, and the Gooseberry fruit 
thinned to promote its growth and ripening in full perfection, 
284 and 292. 

All trees on espaliers require attention ; cut off such 
superfluous shoots as are not required to be trained-in, 
leaving well situated middle-sized shoots to supply the place 
of any old branches that it may be thought neccessary to cut 
away. 274. 

Grape vines should be looked over every week. Cut oft' 
all the tendrils and useless young shoots, and stop the 
shoots before the bunches of fruit. Train up the shoots 
for bearing next season, and to a proper length Before you 
stop them. 305. 



m\L^. 



" When flowers toward evening their bosoms expand, 
And bask in the sunbeams, there's no rain at hand; — 
But when they close up as if conscious of fear, 
They augur its coming — it no doubt is near." 



VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

This is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage . 
Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leek plants, <fec. for full Auturar. 
crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand, 
in order that they may be ready to catch the i-ain. Leeks 
may be transplanted in dry weather by first steeping the 
roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there be the least 
damp in the ground when it is fresh turned over. If Car- 
doons or Celery be planted in dry weather, the trenches 
must be shaded with boards. As grub worms are generally 
numerous in this month, plant with caution, try a few Cab- 
bage plants first, and if none are eaten oif, you may venture 
to proceed, and by the middle of the month, the danger i^ 
generally over-. 



Julj/.y MONTHLY CALENDAR. 37y 

If B3et3 and f^ai-rots Imve failed, tliJ sesds may produce 
good roots by Autumn, if planted early in this mo.ntli . 
plant Beans, 33 ; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Col- 
lards, 48 ; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 56 ; sow 
Endive seed, and transplant the former sowing, 58 ; if Peas 
be planted now they should be soaked in soft water five or 
six hours previous, 72 ; Potatoes may be planted early in 
tliis month, 74; and Pumpkins if not done last month, 76. 
Sow Summer Radish seed in drills, 77 ; sow Tu'Miip- 
rooted Cabbage seed, or Navet, 47 ; this is a good season 
for Ruta Baga, or Russian Turnip, 93 ; and the common 
kinds of Turnip seed may be sown towards the end of this 
month, 92. Attend to plantations of Hops, 126; vvliutever 
herbs m ly be required for Winter use, should be cut off and 
dried as they come into flower, Burnet, Cnervil, Fennel, 
Mint, Parsley, Sweet Marjoram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter 
an>d Summer Savory, may all be cut this month, 96. 

The business of sowing and transplanting, will be mor£ 
successful if done in moist or showery weather, or on the 
approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for pre- 
carious seeds, and young seedling plants. Attend to the 
Mushroom beds, and give light waterings, or expose them 
tQ warm moderate siiowers, occasionally, 114 to 118. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. . 

Greenhouse plants will need daily care at this season ; 
let them be watered every evening in dry weather. Such 
Geraniums as may have grown large and unwieldly, should 
now be pruned, in order that their size and appearance 
may be improved, 219. 

Garden Roses having done flowering for the season, 
should also be pruned. Cut out all old exhausted wood, 
and were it is too thick and crowded, shorten such shoots 
as have flowered, to a good fresh strong eye, or bud, accom- 
panied with a healthy leaf All wood that grows after this 
pruning, will ripen perfectly, and produce large flowers the; 
ensuing year. 



580 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [Julj/. 

If dry warm weather, it may be necessary to water such 
flowering shrubs and roses as were planted in the Spring ; 
and if Dahlia plants could be watered two or three times a 
week, it would be beneficial to their growth. Give regular 
sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot, or syringe, to 
shrubby plants in general, but particularly Camellias, Orange 
and Lemon trees, &c., in order to keep them in a healthy 
state. 

Such bulbous roots in pots, whose foliage have withered, 
should be kept dry until the period of regerminating, 182 
and 212 ; others may be taken up as soon as ripe, after 
which the offsets may be parted off, and both these and the 
parent bulbs dried for planting in Autumn, 181. 

The flower garden should be kept weeded and watered, 
and the seeds gathered as they ripen ; apply neat rods to 
tall-growing and running kinds of plants. Nip off" curled 
and dead leaves, and destroy insects. 133. 

Orange and Lemon trees may be budded at any time 
this month, and those nliich were headed down in the 
Spring, should be examined, and all superfluous shoots 
must be pruned off" with a sharp knife, leaving only the 
strongest ; the tops of which should be pruned off" to pro- 
mote their branching. Myrtles, Oleanders, and such other 
plants as may have iieen headed down in May, will need 
similar treatment. 

Carnations, Pinks, Panseys, Running Verbenas, &c. 
may be layed this month for propagation, 151 and 154 ; 
many kinds of cuttings, as Geraniums, Roses and exotic 
shrubs, may still be planted with success, 166. 

FRUIT DEPARTMENT, 

Thin the fruit of Apricot, which will be good for pies and 
tarts, 274 ; thin Nectarines, also such Peaches and other fruits 
as may be desired in full perfection, 310. 

Defend choice fruits from birds and insects, such as wasps, 
flies, &c. ; the birds may be kept off by nets, and the insects 
may be decoyed and drowned, by placing phials of strongs 
liquor, honey, or sugared water near the fruit. 



August] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 381^ 

If annoyed with ants, place cuttings of reed, hollowed 
elder, or anything of a tube-like kind, in which they will 
harbour, and maybe destroyed by dipping the tubes in hot 
water. 

If mildew appear on grape vines, syringe them Avith 
Avater, in which a small quantity of sulphur and stone lime 
I^as been infused (it need not be over strong). To prevent 
any injurious effects from the lime, the vines may be syringed 
alternately with the liquid, and pure water, each two or three 
times a week. 

Look over your fruit troes and grape vines ; stop the shoots 
before the bLuicbcs of fruit, and train up such shoots as are 
reserved for bearing next year. Nip otf curled and dead 
leaves, and destroy insects, 304. 



'When clouds .slovv dissolve, as if turn il into air, 
And vanish from sight, the n 'xt day wilt be fair ; 
But when, in succession, they darker appear, 
With watery aspect, then know rain is near." 



VEGETABLE DEPARfMEKT, 

The planting season being nearly over, now is the time to 
hoe around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and 
stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for Fall Tur- 
nips, Spinach, Shallots, Fetticus, «fec. As the ground for 
the latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly im- 
proved if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which 
should be afterwards spread and ploughed under. 

Plant Beans for Picklers, 33 ; sow Cabbage seed for Col- 
lards, 48; earth up Cardoons, 48; do. Celery, 53; sow 
Corn Salad, or Fetticus seed, 53 ; (he early kinds of Cucum- 
ber may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 56 ; 
transplant Endive and'prepare to blanch the early plantings, 
58 ; Peas may be planted thus late, if desired, 72 ; sow 
Summer Radish seed, 77 ; prepare for planting Shallots by 
the end of this naouth, 85 ; sow Turnip seed for full crops, 92^ 



382 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [AugUst. 

attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month, cut 
off and dry Sage, and other late herbs, 96. Hops will 
be ripe this month; choose a dry season for gathering 
them, and attend to them as directed, page 127 ; this is a 
good season for preparing to make Mushroom beds, in close 
sheds, cellars or pits ; if the materials be gathered this 
month, indigenous spawn may be cdlieeted next, but those 
that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or 
they may pursue Mr. Nichol's plan, 116. 

Artichokes will be in perfection this month, and should 
1)3 cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and 
before thay open in the heart for flowering ; and as you cut 
the in, break down the stems to promote the growth of root 
offsets, 26. In dry weather hoe and plough between such 
vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will 
not only destroy weeds but encourage the growth of the 
plants. Frequent hoeing in dry weather, will be more bene- 
ficial than the watering pot. 

Early sown Anions, being now of mature growth, and 
full bulbed, should be pulled up in dry weather and exposed 
to the sun to ripen ; frequently turning them, that they may 
harden equally for keeping; then clear them from the gross 
part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c. and 
remove them to a place of shelter, 63. 

Continue to gather seeds of all kinds as they ripen, and 
prepare vacant ground for late crops ; such as Spinach , 
Shallots, Onions, Fetticus, &.c. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

Greenhouse plants will need particular attention this 
month. They should be watered every evening in dry wea- 
ther, and as soon as the extreme lieat of the Summer is past, 
which is generally by the latter end of this month, or early 
in the next, preparation must be made for replenishing with 
fresh compost, and repotting such plants as are intended to 
be cultivated tluough the Winter in a greenhouse, light 
room, or garden frames. Previous to. the commencement of 
this business, let such compost as is suited to the various 
kinds of plants, be provided, 218, 



August.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 383 

Those who may have a number of plants in various sized 
pots, should provide a few new pots a size larger than the 
largest in use ; the largest plants being shifted into the new 
pots, leaves the next sized pots for the second-sized plants, 
and by pursuing this plan of shifting until the whole are 
done, the smallest pots will be left for such plants as have 
been propagated in the course of the Summer. 

The shifting of plants requires considerable attention and 
judgment, as some plants, if kept in too large pots, will sus- 
tain considerable injury : therefore, in such cases, where the 
fibrous roots have not spread around the pot, nothing more 
is necessary than to rub oiF a little of the outside mould, and 
then to substitute fresh compost for the roots to run in. 

Such plants as may have become pot-bound, and whose 
roots are matted around the pot, will, in many cases bear 
reducing. If the matted roots are carefully pared off, and the 
plants shifted into good fresh compost, they will soon take 
root, and grow freely : but it will be necessary to prune off 
all surplus branches of the plants, previous to repotting them, 
and to shade them for a week or ten days. 

Pieces of tile, or broken pots, should be laid over the 
aperture at the bottom of the pots, to enable the surplus 
moisture to drain off, or the roots will sustain injury. 

The flower beds will need attention this month. Water 
Dahlias and other choice plants in dry weather ; cut down 
all decayed flower stalks, as soon as the seed is gathered, 
and pull up annuals as they cease to flower. 

Plant Oxalises in small pots, 205, and prepare compost 
for other tender bulbs to be planted in pots next month. 

Rose shrubs, Orange, Lemon trees, &c. &c., should be 
budded early in this month if not done before. 

FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 

Pursue all that remains to be done of Summer pruning 
all trained fruit trees and vines, as in the last two months ; 
destroy all irregular and unnecessary after-shoots, and 
train-in a requisite supply of well-situated shoots, for bearers 
next year. 274 to 304. 



334 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [September^ 

Keep Raspberry beds clear of all straggling suckers; tie 
up such shoots as are adapted for next year's bearers to neat 
slakes, and keep the ground clear of weeds, 346. 

Strawberry beds should be kept clear of weeds, and the 
runners may be taken from some kinds to make new plan- 
tations with, 347. 

If dry weather prevail, as is generally the case at this 
season, hoe frequently between such young trees, shrubs, 
&c., in the nursery beds, as are well rooted ; and water 
these which were recently transplanted. 



' Light vapours o'er valleys and rivers at night, 
Foretoken the next day salubrious and bright, 
Especially vhen they at morning appear. 
To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air." 



VrGETABLE PKPARTMENT. 

Ailliduirh the sowing sea?on is nearly over, the crops on 
the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still 
be transplautid for Winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other 
vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it pro- 
gresses in growth. Sow Rape, 39 ; Cauliflower seed, 42 ; 
Cabbage, 45; Corn f^ alad, or Felticus, 53 ; Cress, Rape, 
&c , every ten days for a Salad, 54; sow Mustard, for the 
same purpose, 65; sow Lettuce seed, C2 ; Onion to stand 
the Winter, 68 ; Radish for Fall use, 77 ; plant Shallots, 8&; 
sow Spinach seed every week or ten days, 86 ; Turnips will 
sometimes come to maturity if the seeds be sown the early 
part of this month, and those sown last month will need 
hoeing as they progress in growth, 02. 

Continue to gather, dry and pack Hops as they ripen, 127; 
also all aromatic, sweet, and medicinal herbs, 96 ; this is a 
good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situations 5 
they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as 
may be most convenient. For directions to preserve spawn, 
&.C. see page 114. 



September.] monthly calendar. 385 

Towards the end of this month, or early in the next, is a 
good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by 
parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet 
weather ; at the same time, such plants as were raised from 
kerb seeds sown in the Springs may be transplanted inK) 
separate beds or borders, 94 to 96. 

In this month must be finished all the principal sowings 
and plantings necessary this year; on this account such 
ground as is intended for principal crops next year, should 
be well manured previous to planting it. — See Spinach, 86. 

PLOWEU DEPARTMENT, 

Such greenhouse plants as may have been repotted and 
pruned in the course of the last month, should be looked 
over, and if they have taken root, they should be exposed 
gradually to the Sun, and watered moderately in dry, 
weather. 

If any of the greenhouse plants were plunged in the 
flower beds, they should be taken up and pruned early in 
this month, and then put into suitable sized pots, 153. 

Half-hardy perennials, such as Carnations, Daisies, 
Primulas, Lilies, Hydrangeas, &,c. should be taken up 
divided carefully at the roots, and then put into moderate 
sized pots, and attended to as before directed for greenhouse 
plants. 

Many hardy kinds of flower seeds may be sown this 
month, 142 and 151. This is a good season to propagate 
all kinds of hardy perennial plants, by parting the roots ; 
and those that were raised from seed in the Spring, may 
be transplanted into regular flower beds, in cloudy or wet 
weather, 154. Plant Crown Imperials, 185; Persian 
Cyclamens, 186; Ixia3,201 ; Lachenalias, 202; Lilies, 202; 
Ornithogalums, 204 ; Oxalises, 205. 

Such Chrysanthemums as are intended to be protected 
while in blossom, should now be taken up and planted in 
moderate sized pots, 220. 

Seeds of Schizanthus, Ten-week Stock, Mignonette, and 
such other species as may be desired to decorate the par- 
lour or greenhouse, should be sown this month. 

33 



MOA'TnLY CALXNDAR. [OcUber 

FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 



Plantations of Strawberries may be made this montliy 
either with runners or seedling plants, 347. 

Protect your Grapes and other fruit from wasps an^ 
other insects ; either decoy them with honey or sugared 
water, or hang nets over the fruit ; some are at the expense 
of putting the bunches into crape or paper bags. 

Grape Vines and espalier trees in general, should be 
attended to, as directed in the previous Summer months ; 
by depriving them of all useless shoots and suckers, train- 
ing-in those branches intended for the next yeai''s bearers, 
and destroying the eggs of insects, curled leaves, &c., 304. 

Stone fruit, which will now be continually ripening, 
should be gathered while in full perfection, and not suffered 
to get over-ripe, so as to lose its peculiar flavour. 

Ground allotted for the planting of fruit trees and vines 
the coming Autumn, should be prepared this month by 
Jigging, trenching and manuring, where necessary, 240. 



•'A warm open Winter doth often succeed ; — 
A hot and dry Snnnner, by all 'tis agreed ; 
A hard frosty Winter its rigour retains, 
And holds gentle Spring in its cold icy chains." 



VEGETABLE 1>EPARTMEXT. 

The principal Winter crops being planted, it will be 
necessary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of 
the Fall crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Moe and 
earth up Celery, do it in dry weather, and not even while 
the dew is on it, 52 ; Asparagus, Sea Kale, Skirret, and 
Dill seed, may be sown this month. Towards the cud of 
the month, frames must be provided for the protection of 
■parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and Cauliflower 
plants as were raised from seed sown last month. Begin to 
dig and secure all kinds of vegetablts soon enough to get 



October.] monthly calendar. 08V 

llie whole placed away before the end of the next month. 
Take np Potatoes and bury them in graves so as to secure 
them fiom wet and frost, or put them in a warm cellar. 
Proceed to take up other roots ; begin with the tenderest 
kinds, or do that which is required to be done in dry 
weather, while it is so. Collect Pumpkins and Winter 
Squashes, and expose them to the sun and air on a dry 
bencli, or ledge, before tliey are stowed away. Dig up 
Beets and secure them in graves, or pack them in sand in 
a cellar. 

Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a 
liiorough cleaning and dressing; by destroying all weeds, 
cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such 
plants as will admit of it, and spreading earth over others, 
as suggested page 97. 

Tie up full grown plants of Endive every week, in dry 
weather, for blanching in succession as required, 58. 

Horse-Radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by 
trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright roots, 
leaving the old stools for future production, 59. Jerusalem 
Artichokes may be dug up for use, or to preserve for Win- 
ter consumption, 60. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

In the early part of this month, preparation must be made 
for the housing of greenhouse plants. Previous to this 
being done, let the room or greenhouse be white-washed with 
iime, which will prove pernicious to insects, and prevent 
their generating amongst the plants. 

Begin the first week in this month to place all the shrubby 
plants, such as Orange and Lemon trees, on the back 
shelves ; others should be placed that they can be cultivated 
to advantage, and they sliould all be arranged in regular 
gradation, so as to have the low-growing or dwarf plants on 
the front shelves. 

Stockgiilies and Wall flowers should be taken up, potted 
and kept in a shady situation, until they have taken root. 



388 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [Octolef, 

Such Dahlia plants as have been cultivated in pots should 
be sheltered from the chilling air, and those in the ground 
will need attention, 1 82. 

Prepare the ground for all the hardy kinds of bulbous 
lluwer roots, ISO. Towards the end of the month plant 
Anemones and Ranunculuses, 184; Crocuses, 185; Crown 
Imperials, 185; Gladioluses, 199 : Hyacintl)s, 200 ; Irises, 
201 ; Ixias and Jonquils, '/.Ol ; Lilies, 202; Narcissus, 
203; Ornithogalums, '.04; Pteonies, 205; Tulips, 309. 
For the management of bulbous roots in pots and glasses, 
see pages 212 and 213. Prune flowering shrubs, and make 
new plantations of them, 1G9. 

Chrysanthemums should be neatly tied up to small slicks, 
and watered oecasioiiallj with liquid manure, to promote 
"tlieir blossoming in full perfection. Those in pots intended 
to be protected for late flowering, should be watched and 
taken in, on the appearance of a frosty night; they may, 
however, be exposed to the air as much as possible when it 
is soft and salubrious, as should all other half-hardy plants. 

FRUIT DEPAHTMENT. 

Prepare the ground for planting all kinds of hardy fruit 
trees this month, by diging, trenching, and manuring 240. 

Gather such varieties of Apples and Pears as are in full 
growth, both of Autumi eating and Winter keeping kinds ; 
do it on dry days ; let the keeping sorts lay in heaps to dis- 
charge their redundant moisture ; after which convey them 
to a room adapted for preserving them through the Winter ; 
lay each kind separate, and cover them up with dry straw, 
a foot or more in thickness according to the warmness of 
the room, which will preserve them in good order. 

Prune Currant and Gooseberry bushes; make new plan- 
tations, and plant cuttings from these shrubs, prepared as. 
directed in pages 2S4 and 291. 

Plant the stones of Cherry, Peach, Plum, <fcc. in drills 
about two inches deep for the purpose of raising stocks and 
for new varieties ; and in temperate climates, kernels of 
Apple, Pear, Quince, &.C. may be sown in drills about aa 



November.] monthly calendar. 389 

inch deep for the same purpose. Plant also cuttings of 
hardy trees, suckers of Filberts, &c. 287. 

Strawberry beds which were planted last month, should 
be kept free from weeds, and if dry weather prevails, they 
should be occasionally watered, 347. 

Planting- of hardy trees may be commenced towards the 
end of this month, or soon after the leaves show indications 
of decay, whether fallen or not, 242. 



" When nuts are but few, and they small and hollow, 
A cold and wetharvesst, there's no doubt, will follow; 
But when they are plentj', and good, 'tis agreed, 
A rich golden harvest is sure to succeed." 



VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

EnJeavour to avoid having your garden products frozen 
fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ; 
in fine weather dig up Ceets, Carrots, and as many Skirret, 
Salsify, and otlicr hardy roots as will be required for Winter 
use, and pack them close together in graves ; give them a 
coat of straw, and afterwards heap on as much earth as 
will keep out the frost, (,r stow them in a cellar. Towards 
the end of the month, Turnips may be secured in the same 
way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close 
together against a ridge, which should be previouoly fortned 
in a straight line, about a foot above the level of the surface ; 
throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them 
about an inch, and then plant row after row as close and 
upright as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between 
every row to keep the roots and stalks from toucliing each 
other. The whole being covered up with earth, some long 
dung or litter may be thrown over it sufficient to keep out 
the frost ; and by heaping a good layer of manure against 
the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in 
the Winter for use. Some erect a board shed to pre- 
serve it from wet, or a small quantity may be kept in a 

33* 



S90 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [November. 

eellar. Cabbages must be taken up and laid in rows 
tigainst a ridge, so as to form a square, compact, close-grow- 
ing bed, the roots and stems being buried up to the lower 
leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may be afterwards 
covered wiih straw, or a temporary shed may be erected 
over them. Cabbages will keep for some months m a cell-ar, 
if connected with their roots. For the management of 
Broccoli and Cauliflower, see pages 40 and 108 ; Borecole,, 
Brusse's Sprouts, and Collards, may be taken up and- 
stowed away like Cabbages. Cardoons may be laid in like 
Celery, or preserved in sand in a cellar. Leeks may be 
taken up and laid in rows close together against a ridge,, 
and covered up as far as the lower leaves. If the last row 
he protected from frost by a coato^stable dung, they can be 
■taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and, 
Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay, 
or cedar brush. For the management of Artichoke bedf,^ 
see page 25 ; Asparagus, 29 ; Rhubarb, 79 ; Sea Kale, 83' 
Dig up roots of Horse Radish in the manner recom- 
mended last month, to preserve in sand, or graves, for use 
when the ground is frozen and ice-bound. Do the like by 
Jerusalem Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection. 
At the same time take up as many Parsnips and uthcr 
liardy roots, as will be required for use the next three 
months. - 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 

During the continuance of mild weather, greenhouse 
plants should have air at all opportunities, and water in pro- 
portion, as heat and air are attainable, 218. Bulbous roots 
in pots and glasses M'ill also need attention, 212 to 214. 

Half hardy plants, such as Stock gillies. Wall flowers, 
Carnations, Primulas, Hydrangeas, Daisies, &-c. must either 
be placed in frames, or in a greenhouse early in this month. 

If Dahlia, Tuberose, and other tender roots were not 
taken up last month, let it be done in due time this month, 
181. 

Cover up flower lieds with leaves, straw, or light litter, 
15.5; finish planting bulbous roots before the frost sets in. 
I'iant Anemones and Ranunculuses, 184 ; Crocuses, 185 ; 



[November.. monthly calexNDAr. 39ft 

Hyacinths, 199; Irisis, 201 ; Ixias and Jonquils, 201 ; Lilies, 
302; Narcissus, 203 ; Pseonies, 205; Tulips, 207 to 2H>. 
These, and all other kinds of plants, will need protection 
before the setting in of the Winter, 181. Flowering and 
ornamental shrubs may be planted in mild weather, 169;. 
lay long litter round the roots of them, and also of the Grape 
vines and other tender plants, shrubs, &.c , 167. 

Before the Winter sets in severely, let such Chrysanthe- 
mums as have been cultivated in pots be plantf^d in the 
garden, or as soon as they have done blossoming, 220. 

Plant Gladioluses in pots, 199 ; also such, other bulbous- 
roots as may be required to be kept in rooms, page 312. 

Mignonette, and other tender seedling plants under pro- 
tection, will require attention at this reason; they should 
not be over watered, or the plants will perish with mildew. 

Camellias should be frequently syringed while in bud, or 
watered over the foliage with a rose attached to the wa.- 
teringpot, as should all other shrubs, 

FRUIT DEPAKTMENT. 

Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Chestnut, Mulberry, Quince,. 
Walnut and other hardy fruit trees may now be planted ; 
use caution no^: to injure them in taking up, or removing 
them ; let holes be dug somewhat larger than is suflRcient 
to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient 
depth to allow of some good rich compost or pulverized 
earth to be thrown in before the trees are planted, see pages 
241,311, and 337, and read the article headed "observa- 
tions on the choice of fruit trees in the nursery," page 259. 

Finish gathering late varieties of Apples, Pears, Grapes, 
&c ; do it in dry weather, and stow them away out of tli^ 
reach of frost, as recommended last month. 

Currant, Filbert, Gooseberry and Raspberry shrubs may 
be planted this month ; at the same time cut out all crowded 
branches, superfluous puckers, worn-out bearers and decayed 
wood, 273, 284, 287, 291, and 346. 

Strawberry beds made in August and September, as well 
as those of greater age, may be covered up with leaves, 
light manure, salt hay, or nthrr Ji;ter. 



'}9ii MONTHLY CALENDAR. [December. 

Protect the beds where fruit seeds aod cuttings were 
planted last month, by a covering of light manure, conapo&t, 
or leaves of trees. 

Winter pruning may be performed this month on some 
species of hardy trees, shrubs, vines, Sec. and continued at 
all opportunities throughout the next month, 253. 

'* A wet sultry Summer, proguostics affirm, 
A boist'rous Autumn will bring in its ^urn ; 
A cold sour Autumn and Summer portend 
A Winter severe from beginning tor end." 

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT. 

If all was not done as directed last month, there is now 
no time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection 
should be timely attended to, and if the weather continue* 
open, some of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to 
receive the benefit of Winter frosts. Collect all your pea 
sticks and bean poles together, and place them undercover 
to prevent their rotting. Turn over conjpost heaps, and 
provide manure for another year. 

Those who are desirous cf having Cucumbers or Melons, 
early in the ensuing Spring, and that have not the conveni- 
ence for forcing them in the ordinary way, may dig a few 
grass sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them 
away out of tiie reach of frost, through the Winter. 
These being placed on the top of a hot-bed, in March or 
early in April, v/ith the grass downwards ; and Cucumber 
or Melon seeds, planted in the earthy part thereof, early 
plants may be produced wliicli can be removed with the 
turfs without disturbing their growtli, and cultivated either 
on the ridge system, as recommended in page 119, or in the 
open ground, provided they can be kept growing in frames, 
until settled warm weather. This is also an excellent plan 
in early forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk, in trans- 
planting seedling plants into the fruiting beds. 

If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and. 
cover them as recommended page 25. Defend Mushroom 
beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as 



December.] monthly calendar. 3dS 

maybe exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all 
moderate weather through the Winter, give air to Cabbage, 
Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in 
frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats, 
boards, litter, &c. as necessity may require. 

As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar- 
dener to review the results of his practice throughout the 
past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for 
the future. 

In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he 
ought to make provision for a full supply of such vegetables 
as are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit; with 
this object in view, I would suggest that he take a retro, 
spective view of his previous management, and also of the 
directions given in the preceding chapters relative to the 
preparation of the soil; by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing, 
manuring, &:.c. as circumstances may require ; bearing in 
mind, that although clayey soils may be benefitted by Fall 
ridging, light sandy ground should lay flat through the 
Winter. 

FLOWER DEPARTMENT* 

If all was not done as directed last month, there is now 
no time to be lost. All kinds of tender plants in pots, 
should be set into frames or pits, and plunged in old tan or 
light mould ; and in the event of severe frosts, coverings of 
mats, straw, &.c. must be laid over them. 

Greenhouse plants will need constant care and attention. 
When water is necessary, let it be given in mild weather, 
217. In case of accidents happening from frost, I would 
remark, that the sudden transition from cold to heat, is often 
more destructive to plants than frost itself. If, therefore, 
plants get frozen, and cannot be screened from the rays of 
the Sun, they should be watered as the air gets warm, and, 
before they begin to thaw. If suflicient attention be paid, 
so as to li.ive the temperature of the house gradually rising, 
as the water is sprinkled over the leaves, it may be a means 
of pres.erving plants that would otherwise be destroyed. 

See that the greenhouse, or room in which plants are kept, 
is so secure as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or the 
departure of warm air in the night season. 



S94 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [December. 

Collect from heaths and rocks, such kinds of earth as are 
suited to the different species of exotic plants, and gather up 
leaves of trees. If you intend to make hotbeds of them, 
they should be put together dry ; bul if you intend them for 
compost, they may be laid together as wet as possible, in 
order that they may rot, for use in succeeding years. 

FRUIT DEPARTMENT, 

If any of the work recommended to be done in the last 
month was not accomplished, let it be done with all possible 
dispatch this month, as we know not what a day may bring 
forth. 

Protect the stems of newly-planted trees. Cover with 
litter the roots of Grape Vines and Figs against walls, and 
cover the branches with mats, &c. In temperate climates 
prune Apple, Pear, Quince, and other hardy fruit trees; cut 
out rotten and decaying branches, 253. 

To destroy insects on the fruit trees, and prevent them 
from creeping up and breeding on them, do as follows : 

Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp hook- 
like iron made for the purpose ; with these scrape clean off 
all the moss and outside rough bark, and with the knife pick 
out or cut away cankered parts of the bark and of the wood, 
in such a slanting manner that water cannot lodge in the 
sides of the stems of the trees. Having cleared the trees in 
this way, makeup a mixture of lime, soot and sulphur;" 
put these ingredients into a pot or tub, pour boiling water 
upon them, and with u stick stir and mix them well together. 
When this strong mixture becomes cold, and about the 
thickness of white-wash, take a brush, dip it in the mixture,, 
and apply it to the stems and large branches of the trees, 
dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the bark. 

The pruning of hardy fruit trees and hardy shrubs may 
be performed at all favourable opportunities through the 
Winter, 251 to 254. 

For further information on the Winter management of 
Fruit Trees, the reader is referred to the articles commen- 
cing pages 239, 244, 251 and 259. 



395 

TO 

VEGETABLES, HERBS, FLOWERS 6c FRUITS. 





VegctaWcs. 






Page! 


Page 


Artichoke 


23— 382 Musi 1 room 113, 


124, & 382 


Asparagus 


27—105 


Melon . 63- 


-119&392 


Beans, Eng. Dwarf 


31-107 


Melon, Water 


64 


Beans, Kidney Dwarf 33—107 


Mustard, 


. 65-123 


Beans, Pole or Running: 34 


Nasturtium . 


66 


Beet 


36 


Okra 


66 


Borecole, or Kale . 


37 


Onion 


67 


Brussels Sprouts 


38 


Parsley 


69 


Broccoli 


39-108 


Parsnip 


70 


Cauliflower . 


42-108 


Pepper 


71 


Cabbage 


45-101 


Peas 


72 & 120 


Colewort, or Collards 


47 


Potatoe 


74 & 120 


Cardoon Artichoke 


48 


Potatoe. Sweet 


75 


Carrot 


49 


Pumpkin 


75 


Celery 


50 


Radish 


76 & 121 


Corn Salad or Fetticus 53 


Rocambole, Garlic, i 


ko. 77 


Cress 


54-123 


Rhubarb 


78-122 


Cress Water 


48 


Salsify 


i 80 


Chives 


56 


Scorzonera . 


81 


Cucumber 55, 109, 112 & 392 


Sea Kale 


82—107 


Ego Plant . 56, 101, & 123 


Skirret 


84 


Endive 


58 


Shallot 


85 


Horse Radish 


59 


Spinach . , 


86 


Indian Corn . 


60 


Squash 


87 


Jerusalem Artichoke 


60 


Tomatoe 


88-123 


Leek 


61 


Turnip, French orN 


avet 47 


Lettuce 


61—112 


Turnip, Russian 


93 



Herbs and Floorers. 

Annual Flower Seeds, a Catalogue of . . . 136 

Aromatic, Pot and Svveet Herbs, a Catalogue of . 94 — 95 

Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds, a Catalogue of 147 

Climbing Plants 139, 150 & 162 

Chrysanthemums, a Catalogue of .... 219 
Double Dahlias, a Catalogue of ... 188 to 195 

Edgings, Lawns, &c. 133—154 

Greenhouse Plants, Descriptire Catalogue of . . 221 
Greenhouse Plants, Management of . . . 215—220 
Herbs, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal, Culture of 96, 97 & 368 



396 



INDEX. 



Herbs, to Preserve . . . , . . 96 .376 & 387 

Roses, running kinds of 165 

S»lad Herbs, • ... 63, 54, 65, 94, 96, & 123 

Sbrubs, Flowering and Ornamental , . 155 to 165 



To raise your Flowers 

Sprinof 

First Flowers 



Poetic Pieces. 

134 1 The Beauties of April and 

141 May 170 to 178 

154 1 Matrimonial Garden 234 



BiiIboBs nnd Tuberons-Rooled Plants. 



Amaryllis 

Anemone & 

Crocus 

Crown Imperial 

Colchicum 

Cyclamen 

Double Dahlia 

Gladiolus 

Hyacinth 

Iris 

Ixia 



Apple 

Apricot 

41mond 

cherry 

Chestnut 

Cranberry 

Currant 

Fig 

Filbart 

Gooseberry 

Grape 





183 


Jonquil 


201 


lunculus 


184 


Lacnenalia 


202 




185 


Lily 


202 


1 


185 


Narcissus 


203 




186 


Ornithogalum 


204 




)86 


Oxalis 


205 




186 


Paeony 


205 




198 


Tulip 


206 




199 


Tuberose 


210 




200 


Tiger Flower 


211 




201 








Fruits. 






263 Mulberry 


307 




272'Nectarine 


309 




275 Oranga, Lemon, &c. 


314 




276 


peach 


316 




281 


Pear 


327 




282 


Plum 


336 




283 


Quince 


343 




285 


Raspberry 


344 




287 


Strawberry 


346 




288 


Walnut 


350 




293 







INDEX TO THE GENERAL MATTER. 



Ada ptation of the directions in this book to all climates, 23 &355 
Animal and Vegetable Matter compared 21H— 319 

Air, Heat, Light, and Moisture, essential to 

Vegetation 51, 134, 146, 217 & 358 

Annual, Biennial and Perennial plants defined, 95, 135 & 146 
Ashes valuable to the Farmer, 92, 248 to 250 

Aspect, Situation, &c. 7, 131, 181, & 239 

Awning necassary to protect choice Flowers 185, 200, & 210 



moax. 397 

Page. 
Blank Book, recommended, 8, 100, 143, 209 & 35T 

Budding and Grafting Fruit Trees, &c. 168, 255 to 259 

Bulbous and Tuberous Roots, defined, 180 

Bulbous and Tuberous Roots, management of 179—212 

Camelll is, or Japan Roses, cultivation of 360, 361 & 391 

Changeable Flower GTarden I53 

Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery 259 

Deep Planting, Destructive toTrees,&c. 22, 311, 319, 337 & 367 
Drilling System recommended, 11, 16, 46,93 &. 98 

Durability of the germinative properties of Seeds,17 to 2l &I34 
Definition of the term Hill, 55 

Diseases of Ti-ees, Insects, &c. 244, 260, 311 & 317 

Double Dahlias, General Management of 181 &, 1% 

Effects of cultivation exemplified in Celery, 50 

Evil effects of sowing prematurely 9, 20, 36, 49, 58, & 92 

Flower Garden, Observations on 131, 134, 146, 155, &i I79 

Forcing Vegetables, Observations on 102 

Fruit to Protect and Preserve 374, 378, 380, 388 & 391 

Garden Tools, &c. indispensably necessary 11, I4O, 254 & 255 
General Observations on the Kitchen Garden, 7 to 22 

Grafting Clay, Composition, &c. to make 259 

Hedges of Shrubs, 131—155 

Hot-beds, Management of 101 to MO, 359 ii 362 

Inmates of the Garden, Natives of Various 

Climates 19, 57, 131, 134, 146 & 2l5 

Insects, to destroy 12, l3, 92, 244 to 250 cS: 311 

Laying out the Ground, 7, 14, 16, 131, 180 & 240 

Manure, Compost, &c. 10, 92, 109, 218, 296 &. 394 

Method of cultivating and curing Hops, 125 to 129 & 37G 

Monthly Calendar, ' 356 to 394 

Observations on the Fruit Garden and Orchard 239 

Plan of Beds, &c. 17, 97 to 101—131 

Plants often killed with kindness 217, 220, 358 &; 360 

Perennial Plants, to propagate 151- 154, 166, 215 & 385 

precision in small matters, important, 18, 41, 57, 62 & 92 

Primulas and Polyanthus, cultivation of 364 & 365 

Protection of Flower Beds 155,181, 184 & 210 

Propagation of Shrubs and Greenhouse Plants, 166 & 220 

Pruning ^Training Fruit Trees.Vines, 156, 169,251 366, & 379 
Rolling recommended, 11, 15 & 50 

Roses, management of 364—379 

Rotation of Crops, observations on 14, 91, 97 to 100 

Shifting, Potting, & Replenishing Greenhouse Plants 21S— 3S3 
Shrubby.Green house Plants, management of 166, 220, 361 d 380 
Soils, Management of 9, 27, 91, 141, 180 & 240 

Sowing Season, 9, 20. 33, 92, 356 ot 394 

Summer Complaint, a remedy for 372 

Tables, Classifications, Estimates, etc. 16, 19, 354 & 400 

Thermometer recommended, 105—358 

Transplanting Seedling Plants, &c 16, 22,'24, 43, 46, 145 & 31l 
Temperance in the use of water recommended 217 218 & 358 
Vegetables, to preserve, 387, 389 & 39? 

Weather, observations and prognostics on 352 to 392 

34 



SOS RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. 

This summary view of estimates is annexed, in order to afd 
the Seedsman and Gardener in maiiing out a bill of seeds for 
the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under 
the regulations suggested in the preceding chapters of this 
work, to which the reader is referred for a more concise view 
of the subject. Page. 

Artichoke ; an ounce of seed will produce 600 plants 23 

Asparagus ; one ounce will be sufficient !cr 1,000 plants, 27 
Beans, English Dwarf; one (luart of seed will be required 

for every sixty feet of row, 32 

Beans, Kidney Dwarf; one quart of seed will plant from 
350 to 400 hills, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, as ex- 
plained in page . . • . • .34 
Beans Pole, of Running ; one quart of Lima, or large run. 
ning Beans, will plant 100 hills. One quart of the 
small runners will plant about 300 hills, or 250 ft. of row, 35 
Beet ; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole 37 
Borecole, or Kale ; an ounce will produce, 4,000 plants, 38 
Broccoli; one ounce is sufficient tor 4,000 jilants, 41 
Cauliflower; an ounce ofthis seed will produce 4 000 plants, 44 
Cabbage ; one ounce will produce 4,000 plants, 46 
Cardoon Artichoke; an ounce will produce 600 plants. 48 
Carrot; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, 50 
Celery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, 51 
Corn Salad, or Fetticus; one ounce of seed, will sow 

about two poles of ground, . . . • 54 

Cucumber ; one ounce cf seed is sufficient for 200 hills, 56 
Eo-g Plant; an ounce of seed will produce 4,000 plants, 57 
Endive, or Succory ; an ounie will yield 5,000 plants, 58 
Leek; one ounce of seed m;iy be allotted for 3,000 })lants, 61 
Lettuce ; an ounce will produce, say 10 000 plants, t2 

Melon ; one ounce of seed will plant from 120 to 150 hills, 64 
Melon, Water ; an ounce will plant from 40 to 50 hills. 65 
Onion ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, 67 
Parsley ; two ounces may tie allowed for three perches, 69 
Parsnip; two ounces may be allotted for three perches, 70 
Pepper; one ounce of seed will produce 3 000 plants, 71 

Peas; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row. 73 
Potatoes; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be alloted 

for an acre, • • . ... 74 

Potatoe, Sweet; half a peck of seed, properly managed, 

will produce 15 bushels, . .75 

Pumpkin ; one quart of field Pumpkin \\ill plant from 
5 tu 600 hilU, and one ounce of the finest kinds will 
plant from 50 to 80 hills, . . • . 75 

Radish; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown 
broadcast, and about half the quantity if sown in drills. 77 
Salsify; two ounces of this seed will plant three [lerchcs. 81 
Shallots; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty pole .... 85 
Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five 
perches of land. If broadcast, it will require double the 
quantity. • • .... 86 

Squa.NJi ; an ounce of seed will plantfrom50 to 100 hills, 

according to sorts and size. .... 88 

Tomatoe ; one ounce of seed will produce 4,000 plants 89 
Turnip; one pound of seed is sufficient for an acre of land. 92 



399 
QUANTITY OF GRASS SEED SUITABLE TO THE ACRE. 



Clover, sown alone 12 pounds 
Timothy 1 peck. 

Herds Grass 1 bushel. 



Orchard Grass 2 bushels. 

Rye Grass. 2 bushels. 

Lucerne 8 pounds- 



For a pasture for grazing, the following mixtures of seed would be 
found excellent,-; viz : 6 pounds of clover seed, 1 peck of herds grass, 
and half a bushel of Orcha'-d grass seed — or 6 pounds clover, half a 
bushel o^ rye grass, aad half a bushel of taJl meadow oat seede. 



RETROSPECTIVE ¥IEW OF THIS EDITION OF THE 
YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 

WTiile making the preceding index, I availed loyself of the opportunity 
afforded me of surveying the fruits of my labour ; and, although I have 
to crave the reader's indulgence for several errors of the pre?s and slips 
efthe pen, which appear unavoidable in a work of this kind, I think I 
may assert, without exposing myself to the charge of arrogance or 
egotism, that this edition very far excels those before published, not only 
as to the additional amount of information it contains, butfrom the im- 
proved method in which the instructions are exhibited to the reader, 
who will, I am persuaded discover on an attentive perusal of the work, 
tliat he has the various subjects laid before him in a concise, and at the 
same time an explicit manner. Several new and interesting articles 
have been composed expressly for this edition, on various subjects, 
some of which it is presumed, have never before been discussed for 
publication. The reader is referred to pages, 19, 23, 134, 146, 166,220, 
oil, 319 and 337; also introduction to the calendar and index. 

T. BBIDGEMAN. 

New-York, March, 1840. 



400 ADVEBTISEMKNT. 

GREENHOUSE PLANTS, 

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS, 8fc. 8(c. Sfc. 



T. BRIDGEMAN would liere remind his friends that lie has a Seed- 
Store and Gr(;enlionHe, corner of Eighteenth st. :ind Broadway, immedi- 
ately no!_;ii of Unioji Place I'ark ; and West of the New-Yorli and Har- 
laem Rail Road; and he trusts he shall not he accused of arrogance or 
•egotism for asserting his helirf that upwards of twenty years' expericmco 
as a Gardener, and fourteen as a .Seedsman, in the vicinity of New- York, 
entitle him to the confidence of the public. 

lie can only hefe enumerate a few of tlie leading articles in his collec- 
tion, which he can conscientiously recommend as being well calculated 
to suit the market. 

(3ARDEN SEEDS. — A full assortment of all those varieties of veije* 
table seeds that have been tested in this climate, and proved to have some 
good qualities to recommend them; none others will be olfered at the 
counter. 

HERB SEEDS. — Including ?age. Thyme, S weetMu.joram, Summer 
Savory, &e. 

FLOWER SEEDS.— Annual, Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds 
of the most estecsnied varieties. 

GREENHOUSE PLAN fS.— Consisting of several choice varieties 
ul Geraniums, or Pelargoniums, China Roses, Cammelias, or Japan Ro- 
se.^. Carnations and various ornamental Plants, including Orange, lie- 
mon Trees, &c. 

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS —Hyacinths, Tnlips, 
Narcissus, and such other bulbs as are calculated to blossom in pots or 
glasses; also. Gladioluses, Tuberoses, Amaryllises, Tiger Flowers, &c. 
together with a full assortment of DOUBLE DAHLIAS, embracing all 
the newest and most splendid varieties; of every shade and complexion 

IIOIITICULTUIIAL BOOKS. 

TirE Kitchen Gardkver's Instructor, containing ample direction« 
Jorthe cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Her!)s, &c. 

TiiK Florist's Guidk, containing; practical directions for the cultiva-. 
tion of Flowers. Third edition improved. 

The Young Gardener's Assistant, containing practical directions 
for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Flowers, Fruit Trees, the. 
(jra^ie Vine, &c. &c. Eighth edition enlarged. 

[Er'Seedsmen and Booksellers supplied on liberal terms. 



MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES.. 

BIRD SEEDS— Hemp, Canary, Yellow, Rape, and Millett ; Flax, 
Timothy, Clover, and Grass Seeds; Split Peas for Soup; ^colcli Burlejr 
Russian Mats. Flower Pots, &c &c. on moderate terms. 

(0°Bouqnets of Flowers tastefully arranged, and delivered to order at 
the shortest notice. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



JUST PUBLISHED 

The Kitchen Gardener's Instructor ; 

Containing a catalogue of GarJen and Herb Seeds, with practical direc- 
tion* under each head. fi>r the cullivalion of Culinary Vegetaldes and 
flerbs. wijh a Calendar showing the Work necjssary to be done in a 
Kitchen Garden in every month ihroughoot the season. Also, Directions 
lor forcing and fitrwardins Vegetables out of the ordinary season. By T. 
Brid£eman. Gardener, NewVork ; price 37^ cents, 144 pagf-i5, in neat 
boariJs. 

The above is the title of the best little GJardening Manual ever offered to 
the public, and in apropos lime, as the season is just about opening. The 
author of this work is well known as a practical gardener, and therefore 
writes from his own experience; his directions for rau-ing A^iaragus, 
Celery, Cauliflower, Brrjccoii, Rhubarb for tarts, Toinaioeg, and M jshrooms 
are worth all the price charged, as are also his directions for making and 
sowing a hot-bed. The Montrily Calendar is of itself an invaluable part of 
thebojkl In short those who are dissatisfied, after a perusal, will have 
their money returned. 

G. C. THORBURN. 



" This is one of the best work? on the subject ever published in any 
country': it contains Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Annual, 
Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes, Herba- 
ceous and Shnibby- Bnlbons, Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including 
the Double Dahlia, Greenlioase Plants in Rooms, &c. 6lc. 

A Work of the above kind has been long wanted ; hitherto, it re- 
quired an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any sort of 
readable directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in 
rooms, &c. which when procured, were so fuil of botanical foppery, 
that plain, honest people, after wading through some tlu'C or four hun- 
dred page*, were as v.ise as to knowing how to f^et about their garden- 
ing, as when they commenced their book. The present little work 
obviates all these difficulties. The Author is well known as one of our 
practical gardeners, and it may be truly said he has rendered the 
Ladies in particular (^for whom the work was projected) an essential 
sersMce : tlie directions for the care of the '.'amellia Japonica. the 
Double Dahlia, the sowinz^nd treatment of Annual Flower Seeds, are 
alone worth double the price of the book : so is the Calendarial Index, 
which, by the untiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman. is made to include 
in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than in some 
ponderous octavos on the same subject." 

{Commer.ial Advertiser. '\ Geo. C. Thorbam, 11 John street. 

34* 



402 



COMMENDATORY NOTICES 



VOdU'KI© ©^B[2)[SK][1B»9 i?\©QaS7/aM'Tra 



Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture, 

Botany, «&.c. published by Hovey & Co. Boston: 

" The work is written in plain language, easih to be understood by 
the young beginner in gardening) who will find it a great help ; and its 
value, even to the partly experienced person, is by no means of an ordi- 
nary character. It is adapted to our climate, and unlike compila- 
tions from English works, the novice is not led into disappointment by 
following the rules there laid down, as he generally is, when following 
advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, it is 

WORTH ALL OTHERS OF A SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT -HAVE EVER BEEM 

PUBLISH KD IX THIS COUNTRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the 
hands of all new beginners.'' 

Extract of a letter from Lansingburgh: — 

"Dear Sir: — You will see by the next month's New York Farmeifiif 
you have not already seen by the Albany papersi that several copies of 
your ' Young Gardener's Assistant' have been given as premiums, by 
the State Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B> Slingerhuid and myself 
were on th'' committee for awarding premiums, and thought your work 
was deserving encouragementi and that even in this small way, we 
might be of service in bringing it before the public as worthy of being 
given as PREMIUMS. "ALEXANDER 'WALSH." 

"The first edition of 'The Young Gardener's Assistant' has been 
ftvourably noticed in France: — "One of the leading articles of the 
Annales de I' Jnst'itute Royal Horticole de Fromont, is a long notice of 
' The 'i'onng Gardener's Assistant,' by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this 
city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bod'n, speaks of the little 
work in very commendable terms." — New-York Farmer. 

"Among the plants, for the cultivation of which 'The Young Gar 
doner's Assistant contains directions, are a number of culinary vegeta- 
bles not generally introduced into the United States. The introduction- 
and successful cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resour- 
ces of our country. We recently saw, for instance, in Bridgeman's 
garden, several varieties of Broad Beans, Vicia fuha, ma. most vigorous 
and thrifty growth. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that wa.s 
not suitable so early in the season for any other vegetable. They put 
forth a beautiful blossom, and would serve as an ornament for the 
flower garden, — New-York Farmer. 

" From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate 
heads, and the plain and practical nature of the insliuclions, it must be 
an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superinteMd the 
)u:inagement of their own ga' dens. — Albany Argus. 

" It will we are persuaded be found, what the writer intends it shall 
be, ' generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the 
management of their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener 
himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicabU 
I'j our climate — an advantage of no httle moment." — American. 



403 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. 

" Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject ons 
which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of 
twenty years' experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted in 
aji unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than 
those in more costly and expensive works." — Courier & Enquirer. 

" No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening, ever published in this 
country, has met with po very general approbation and extensive sale. 
Mr. Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writei 
from his own experience.' — Duily Advertiser. 

" The calendarial index is invaluable, and of itself worth the price of 
the book." — Commercial. 

" That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this 
most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of 
applause and patronage; and such we consider 'The Young Gardener's 
Assistant.' — Advociue. 

" The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged, 
in Agriculture, 'far Irom the busy haunts of men,' and to the disciple* 
of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seeds- 
man, and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic.''— Old 
Countryman. 

" From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Bridgeman's book, W6. 
should suppose that he paid but little attention to the mere on dils or- 
dictiims of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment 
pointed out; and in this particular, we value his book — leading the 
young gardener to learn to depend moe on his own judgment than on 
the rules of custom. — American Farmer. 

'•All those who are desirous ol a work on the subject of Gardening, 
and one which will convey the best information on the management of 
Hot-beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent 
Vegetables, Pruning, Graftin f and Buddin j; Fruit Trees Training the 
Vine. Preserving the Fruit from Mildew, &c. should procure this. No 
-work on the subject ever pul)lished in this country has met with half ae 
extensive a sale, or decided public approbation as this valuable compen- 
dium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands the subject on which he 
treats. The very rapid sale of the five former editions is quite a suffi- 
cient recommendation." — G. C. Thorburn. 

" We can assure gardeners and farmers, that they will in times and 
ways almost without iiumber,'be amply compensated by purchasing the 
book. Mr. B. bestows great labour on his productions of the pen, not 
only as to practical matter of facti but to the various excellences of 
atyle, particularly to clearness, and the avoiding a redundancy of words.. 
The amount of useful information in the book constitutes its value ; 
and all this information is adapted to this country, and its climate and 
soil." — American Gardener's Magazine. 

"Bridsemas's Gardener's Assistant.— The sixth edition of thia 
useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by 
the addition of sfveral matters not contained in either of the former 
editions. Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist tho^ 
gardener's memory." — Evening Post. 

" From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give ' The 
Young Gardeners's Assistant,' we should judge that it embraces a 
greater amount of practinal information, applicable to our chmate, 
than can be found in any similar work. The list of fruit trees has been 
■elected from the best authorities, both foreign and American, and la. 
■ufficiently extensive for any cultivator in this country.''— Newark 
IJaily Advertiser.. 



401 

COMMENDATORY NOTICES OF THE FLORIST'S GUIDE. 



The Florist's Guide. — A delightful little book, which we advise 
every body to purchase — at least every body that has the least liking for 
rtie pleasing occupation on which it treats. — Courier & Enquirer. 

Mr. Bridgeman, of this city, has published a neat little work, entitled 
'The Florist's Guide,' containing directions for the cultivation of flow- 
ers. It is a pleasant and instructive little book. — Times. 

" The Florist's Guide," like its companion, "'The Young Gardener'* 
Assistant,'' is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist maj 
consult to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of 
various species; the names and characters of each being alphabetically 
arranged, makes it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to 
•uperintend the managementof their own gardens." — Newark D. Adr. 

" The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious, 
and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information, 
unencumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work. 
We very cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful 
book.'' — Gardener's ftlagazine. 

The Flori.st's Guide is the title of a duedecimo volume, of 140 
pages, just issued from the press in this city. It is the production of 
Mr. T. Bridgeman, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist, and contains 
directions for the cultivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial 
Flowering Plants, of ditferent classes. A work of this description can- 
not but prove valuable to Horticulturists, particularly to those Ladies 
who are fond of that healthful emijloyment of cultivating their own 
flower-beds. — Gazette. 

We observe that Mr. T. Bridgeman, the ingenious author of ' The 
Young Gardener's Assistant,' has put to press another work, entitled 
' The Florist's Guide,' containing directions for cultivating flowering 
plants and greenhouse plants of every description. It is very neatly 
printed, and although extending to 130 pages, is off"ered at the low 
price of 37i cents per copy. — Old Countryman. 



7£j' I have selected the foregoing notices from a long list of equally 
flattering testimonials relative to the merits of these work.'-. This'curtail. 
uient was rendered necessary by the very valuable additional informa- 
tion incoi porated in the present vohimes, which will be found much more 
complete than any of their predecessors. According to my humble opinion 
this will add to the well-earned celebrity of their Author, and place his re- 
putation on a permanent basis, as a sound, judicious, and able writer on 
" the delightful Art of Gardening '' the printer. 



405 



PEOPLE OF TOE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



FELLOW CITIZENS : 

An application having been made to your representatives in Con- 
gress, to vote a siiin equal to five cents from each individual in the 
United States or about a mii^liOiV dollars of your resources, to the 
promotion of an improved s^'stem of " Terra-culture,'' as described in 
Senate, document No 2:>, of the third session of the 25th Congress, £ 
hereby direct your attention to a few extracts taken from the applicant's 
jjreamble ; copies of wiiich have been forwarded to each member ofthu 
26di Congress, in session November 30, 1839. 



From the Poujhkeepsie Eagle, Saturday Morninf, January 25, 18')0. 

PRESERVATION OF FRUIT TREES, PLANTS, &c' 
GREAT DISCOVERY. 

To the Hon. Perry Smith, chairman of the United Ptates Senate 
Committee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress. '*With the conse: t 
and by the advice on the 23d inst.. of the chairman of the Unite 1 States 
Senate Committee on Agriculture of the 25th C' ngress, I forward to 
each member of the 26th '"ongress, iSie accompanying document dated 
the 14th inst; the object is t) shoio yon soni" of the yvroo/ that a di-covery 
of vital importance to civilized man has been made, which in several 
letters from different members of the present and last Congress, is valued 

9tt auNDitKDS OF MILLIONS OF DAYs' LABOUR, AND WORTH MORE THAN ALfc 
THE DISCOVERIES OF THE PRESENT AGE COMBINED — THE APPLIC ATIONOF 
STEAM NOT EXCEPTED'' 

" For what purpose would all the owners of the public lands more 
freely or gratefully consent to give one hundreth part of those lands, or 
the proceeds thereof? Would they not be grateful to those members of 
Congre ■>!, who assist in giving the owners of the public domain the 
desired information, and reverence them as benefactors of human kind." 

" For the honour of the republic, for the honour of the age, and for 
the interest and comfort of the living, as well as the unborn, let not that 
discovery which may cause two seeds to ripen where one now does, 
which prevents the premature death of all cultivated trees, which has 
been searched for in vain during the histo'-y of all civilized society, die 
with the discoverer for want of the action of the United States Congress." 

Our patriotic di-cov^rer "claims the following five discov.ries as his, 
besides other discoveries which are stated in his memorial to the 25th. 
Congress ': — 

1st. "That variou<! diseases, universnlly supposed to be destructive to 
plants, are only symptoms that a particular error in cultivation has been 
committed ; and that many other injurious effects have been produced 
by the same error, which are attributed to other causes." 

2d. "That the error is universally committed, to a greater or less 
extent, throughout the States, and that he has seen an excess of it 
wherever he has beon, which is in the Atlantic States, from Georgia to 
Massachusetts inclusive." 

8d. " That the Peach and Nectarine are more easily injured by the 
error than most other Fruit Tr les, and the cause of their being more 
easily injured by it; and that thif-i error causes them 'to be barren, 03^ 
Eh<?rt-lived." 



406 



4di. "That the application of two known laws in Nature demonstrnta 
the renlity of his discovery and its rpplication to the whole vegetable 
kingdom; and that by them, his discovery, (if publicly known,) must be 
perpetuated, and his practice more easily introduced ; and that by thes© 
two laws the occasional success of common remedies is explained. " 

5th. "That the said error is the obstacle which ha-s discouraged ex- 
perimenters, and lamentably retarded improvements in the science and 
practice of agriculture ; and hat he has discovered facts and made him- 
self acquainted with knowledge sufficient to reduce them to practice." 

We are further informed, " that it is neither climate, nor soil, nor 
insects, nor worms, that are the cause of mruy of the disastrous effects 
that have been attributed to them, but that those effects are produced by 
error in cultivation which diseases the smallest plant or largest tree.'' 

Our modest and patriotic fellow-citizen admits in the course of his 
preamble, " that the jiractical part of his discovery is so kxtremei-t 
•iiMPLR and economical, tb.tt it copIs no more to prevent the diseases 
than it does to produce them ; and that it is so different from the esta- 
blished theories and habits of the people, that unless a large amount 
BE appropriated, many will be unwilling to try it, and therefore the 
PUBLIC good seems to require that a large amount should be appropri- 
ated. ' He moreover asserts, that " there are two known laws in 
Nature, by which the reality of his discovery, and its application to the 
whole vegetable kingdom, are demonstr.ib'.e in less than thirty words." 

That Uiis invaluable secret, whatever it may be, isnnt strictly speaking 
a new di-covery, is demonstrable by num<?rous living witnesses which 
have inJiabited the fields aivd forests of the okl world for over a thousand 
years ; and our discoverer freely admits, and in very emphatic language, 
tliat tJMjre are thousands of trees in our own country on which, what he 
terms "the common error,' has never been committed ; and also, that 
•everal of the fifteen gentlemen to whom he communicated his secret, 
eonjidently fo'-cver, have some such trees on their own domains. 

Hear him — " The Senator fran Missouri, ("Mr. Linn,) said, that the 
most flourishing and healthy Peacli tree in his possession had never bad 
what I call the common error in cultivation committed upon it." 

" Tiie Senator from Pennsylvania, (Mr. MeKeau,) said, that he had 
long supposed that what 1 call tlie common error, was an error, but that 
he had no idea of such extensive evils arising from it."' 

" The Senator from Maryland. (Mr. Spence,) said, that in his district 
it was a universal custooj to commit what I call the common error in 
CTiltivation, ou the fruit trees, and that it was as common to have no 
Plums perfect and free from worms, excepting on a few of his, on 
which the error had not been committed for twenty years, if ever ; and 
those few (four) continued to bear abundantly annually ; ihi\t he had no 
recollection of ever seeing an imperfect wormy Plum on either of these 
four trees, but that he had never supposed that to have been tlie cause 
of their perfection." 

The Senator from South Carolina, (Mr. Calhoun), to whom I am 
indebted (or pointing out one symptom of the error, and for a valuable 
suggestion in the culture of plants, said, "while examining the defective 
trees around the Capitol, that the principle when exhibited, was very 
plain and simple, that it was philosophical, and in his opinion it could 
not be neglected without injury to the health and gro\^th of trees and 
plants, and deserving of public patronage." 

"The Vice President of the U. S, (Mr. John.son.) said, that my dis- 
covery was perfectly consistent with the laws of Nature ; and, (when 
observing a few trees near the Capitol, which had been injured by the 
ef/or, and were recovering,) further remarked, that my theory was 
essentially correct and obvious to the most superficial observer," 



407 

" The member from New-York, (Mr. Jackson,) said that he ha J 
reared an orchard on which he liad carefully avoided an excess t)f what I 
call the common error, and that it had been admired as the most flourish- 
ing and fruiiful orchard in the neighbourhood ; and that he iiad recently 
seen a field of Indian corn, which yielded more than one hundred bushels 
of shelled grain to the acte, in which an excess of the error had been 
avoided, while the success was attributed to quite a ditierent cause." 

From the preceding extracts, it is evident that this inestimable treasure 
lays near the surface ; and from the disclosure having been communicated 
to rational and intelligeiit minds, it is preposterous to expect that thosa 
gentlemen can, in the pursuit of their rural avocations, act directly con- 
trary to knowledge ana sound judgment; they must, therefore, necesna- 
rily and unavoidably coiiununicate the secret by their example, which 
will eventually dissemiiiate, in proportion as mankind take an interest 
in the merits of the alleged discovery* 

But lest the full benefits of this invaluable remedy should be withheld 
from the community for want of the action of the United states Congress,' 
I have submitted an exposition of my vi/ivs of the particular points 
adverteckto in the preamble, which may be found uuder the heads, Necta- 
rine, Peach, and Plum, pages 311, 319 and 337, of the eighth edition of 
the Young Gardener's Assistant ; and I would furthermore remind my 
readers, that the directions heretofore given in this and previous ed'*ion* 
of the work, are in strict accordance with the same doctrine ; and that 
although the error alluded to is ^admitted to have been very generally 
committed, I am not aware that any writer has ever taught or encouraged 
the error, either director indirect; I confess, however, that I have been 
induced to expatiate on this malpractice in horticulture, from the subject 
having elicited the grave consideration of enlightened legislaors oflhesu 
L'nited States. 

And lest these my voluntary disclosures should prove to have no 
bearing on the alleged discovery, I would prepare the public mind for ita 
reception by an exhortation to ikmpf.ra.ncj!; and moderation, as the 
only safe course that can be considered applicable to the cultivation of 
all the varied species of plants, which comprise '■ the whole vegetabte 
kingdom.-' In articles, pages 19, 134, 146 and 217, I have shown that 
the various species of plants which occupy our greenhouses, gardeuH, 
and fields, require each their ■peculiar aliment — they bavin,' been col- 
lected from all the diversified regions, climates, and soils through earth "s 
remotest bounds ; they ccsequently comprise natives of mountains and 
rocks, as well as of plains, valleys, and water courses. The most essen- 
tial aliment for natives of warm climates and dry soils being ukat, 
artificial means are used iu cool seasons, aud unpropitious chujates to 
produce it. Natives of temperate climates require salubrious aik, heno« 
they are cultivated to the greatest perfection iu our Northern States in 
Spring and Autumn ; and in our Southern States in the Winter ; soe page 
355, and natives of humid climates, as also auiphibious plants in gr -leral, 
require a more than ordinary share of MoiiTURE, and grow best jn wet 
soil ; but these xHitEK lkmknts collectively constitute the food of plant* 
in jieneral, and should be judiciously iuijiarted to the various species, in 
due proportions according to circumstances. See pages 41, 54, 57 and 
358, for a more concise view of this subject. I have also shown, 
that the roots of various species of plants require each their peculiar 
aliment, which is not to be found in all descriptions of land ; this is 
demonstrated by roots of tiees being frequently discovered spreading 
beyond their ordinary bounds in quest of salutai_, Ibod. 

Although it has been aduiitted that excessive deep planting of trees 
and plants is injurious, and in many cases fatal to their very existence, 
it does not follow that all annuals and biennials are injured by the same 
means; on the contrary, the earthing up of particular species of jilants 
in a late stage of growth is calculated to promote early maturity, which 



constitutes the most essential art in gardening for the market; because 
the earhest crops are always the most profitable. It is moreover a ne- 
tjessary practice in climates where the seasons for gardening are short — 
as without such practice, many kinds of vegetables could not possibly 
■be matured in due season for gathering before Winter. 

1 would here take the opportunity of jjroving this last position, by 
Temindiug the reader that tlie ttfects of deep planting, the Peach tree 
for instanf'e, is discoveraljle soon after the error is committed, by its 
fruit ripening prematurely, and this is often the case for a year or two 
prior to its linal decease, and should operate as a salutary lesson against 
planting perennial plants and trees too deep. 

In couclusion of this article, which is intended as an appendage to my 
works on gardening, I would urge gardeners and cultivators to consult 
the operations of Nature in all their rural pursuits ; and with a view to 
aid them, I subjoin the following rules, which are further illustrated 
under the different heads : 

1. In transplanting fruit trees, let the collar, or that part from which 
emanate the main roots, be near the svirf ice. A mediiun-sized tree may 
be planted an inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed ; and the largest 
should not exceed two or three inches, bee pages 311, 319, 337 and 367 
of the Young Gardener's Assistant, eighth edition. 

2 In the cultivation of such plants as are transplanted, or grown in 
hills or clusters, as Indian Corn, &,c. keep the earth loose but level around 
them in their early stages of growth, by frequent hoeing, ploughing, or 
cultivating; and to promote early maturity, throw a ninlerate portion 
of earth about the roots and steins at the last or final dressing. 

3. In the sowing of seeds, remember that in unitt THEhF, is strength, 
and that from the germinative parts of a seed being weak and diminutive, 
it cannot be expected to perforate through the soil, solitary and alone. 
To insure a fair chance plant your seeds moderately thick, and thin out 
the surphis plants while >oung In planting seeds in drills, which is the 
most eligible plan, the size of the seed and strength of its germ should 
be considered ; large seeds, producing vigorous roots, require deeper 
planting than diminutive seeds, producing delicate roots and slender 
stalks. 

4 In the choice of compost for exotic or greenhouse plants, imitate 
the native soil of each peculiar species as nearly a^- possible, by a judi; 
cious mixture oi' maiJen earth, loain sand, leaf, swamp and rock mould, 
decomposed manures and such other composts as are recommended 
under the difi'erent heads. Reiuember, that although strong manure is 
essential to the growth of some plants, it is poisonous to others Pursi'f, 
THK.v, A MEDIUM COURSE. From your soil not being too stiff or too light, 
too rich or too poor, too cool or too warm, too close or too poreous, if 
not positively salutary and con'.'enial to all, it must render the situation 
of each endurable. I again repeat, that temperance in the use of 
aliment, is as essential to the welfare of the vegetable family, as it is to 
the health, happiness, and longevity of mankind. 

T. BRIDGEMAN, 

New-York, March 4, 1810, 



O" Since this address has been in press, I have seen another article 
in the Poughkeepsic Eagle, dated February 29, 1840, wherein our 
modest and patriotic disc )verer gratuitously pronounces his knowledge 
as superior to that of " all Botanical and Agricultural known Writers !" 
As I have anticipated the merits of this second valuable discovery 
in my books, I have nothing moie to say than to remind the reader, that 
this uncalled for attack on the brethren of my fraternity, fully justifies 
the publication of these my voluntary disclosures. 

T). MitchtU, Priour, 26S Bowtry. 



